this spot. The banks are rocky and steep, overgrown with trees, and festooned with creeping plants. The most remarkable part of the ruins of Eniada is the gate which led from the port to the city, terminating in an oblique passage through the wall, 8 ft. long. Though the passage is ruined, and the gate half-buried, the elevation of the upper part of the latter is preserved, and is one of the most curious remains of antiquity in Greece, as it shows that the Greeks combined the use of the arch with that of polygonal masonry: 5 feet above the arch a quadrangular window formed by three stones, crowns the gate. The remains of a theatre may be traced near the centre of the ancient city, and command a view towards Kurtzolari and the mouth of the Achelous. The ruins and woods of Trikardhó are singularly beautiful, while the picturesque dresses of the Greek peasantry form an appropriate accompaniment to the scenery. The coins of Eniadæ, bearing the head of the tauriform Achelous and the legend OINIAAAN in the Doric dialect, have been found in great numbers in the surrounding parts of Greece. Twenty-three years prior to the Peloponnesian war Eniada resisted Pericles, who attempted to reduce it with an Athenian squadron. It was the only city in Acarnania adverse to the Athenian alliance, and did not join that alliance till the eighth year of the war, when it was compelled to do so by the other Acarnanians, assisted by the strong fleet of Demosthenes at Naupactus. In B.C. 211, Eniada was taken by the Romans under M. Valerius Lævinus, and given by them to the Etolians, but was restored to the Acarnanians twenty-two years later. On the whole, it is one of the most interesting places in Greece. Descending from Trikardhó, we proceed to a mill 2 m. distant from the ruins, and thence down a creek to the island of Petala, consisting entirely of rugged rocks, having small intervals of soil, which are covered in winter and spring with a luxuriant growth of herbage and aromatic shrubs. On the W. side a few fields are cultivated by the Ithacans and Cephalonians. Petala, like all the other islands, great and small, lying off the W. coast of Greece, belonged to the Septinsular State. There is good partridge-shooting here in autumn; and on each side of the island is a secure little port, where a yacht may lie while its owner and his friends are enjoying the excellent woodcock and wild-fowl shooting which is to be had in winter near the mouth of the Achelous. A fishing-boat may generally be found at Petala; and proceeding thence towards the Skala, or Skaloma, of Tragamesti, we sail between the Echinades and the Acarnanian coast, in which about midway are the harbours of Platia and Pandeleimon. They are beautiful bays, with narrow entrances. On the summit of a hill rising from the latter harbour are the ruins of an Hellenic town, perhaps Astacus, which was the chief maritime city and harbour N. of Eniada. Fallow-deer and roe abound in the woods near Pandeleimon bay. Red-deer are found on the opposite promontory N. of the bay. Guides and beaters should be procured from the village of Dragomestre. The Bay of Tragamesti is 5 or 6 m. long and 1 broad, sheltered on the S.W. by the Echinades; on the N.W. shore is the mountain Velatzi. There is a rough mole on the beach at the extremity of the bay, where the modern village stands. It is a thriving place, having the official name of Astacus, but more generally called Dragomestre, or Tragamesti. The upper village of the same name is at some distance from the sea. Now that piracy no longer exists, the inhabitants of Greek towns and villages are generally removing to the coast from the lofty inland positions, which formerly were alone safe. It is 9 hrs. by land from Dragomestre to Mesolonghi, and 14 hrs. to Vonitza, by the most direct routes. Vasilopulo, 6 m., or 2 hrs. A vil- | from a deserted village at the foot of lage occupying a lofty situation near Mount Bumisto, opposite to which, in the N. extremity of the valley. The the direction of Porta, is a pointed hill villages of old Tragamesti and Lut-crowned with a castle of the lower ziana are also situated on this side ages, also named Aetós. of the valley. Of these three, Tragamesti, or Dragomestre, is the largest. The valley is bounded by the mountains which are a N. continuation of Kalkitza. Between Lutziana and Tragamesti, below a monastery of St. Elias, a root of Mount Velutzi projecting into the valley, was the site of the town which possessed the district of Tragamesti in Hellenic times, and at a subsequent period. The remains consist of walls of mortar and rubble, erected upon regular Hellenic masonry. There are also the ruins of a large church, and, at the angle of the fortress, a square tower coeval with the church. This Hellenic town was probably Crithote; but according to Kiepert and others, Astacus, which Leake places, as we have said, more to the S. The road from Vasilopulo crosses the hills and descends into a valley, and, passing through Makhera, once a considerable village, follows the slope of the hills to the Paleo-kastron of Porta, 4 hrs. The monastery, called the Panaghia of Porta, is founded on a part of the walls of an ancient city (probably Phytia), encircling the summit of an irregular height rising from the middle of the vale, which is enclosed by Mount Bumisto, the ridge of Katuna, and the mountain of Chrysoritzi. The walls are chiefly polygonal, except on the lower side towards Makhala, where they are best preserved, and where a tower of regular masonry subsists to half its original height. A little above it is an ancient reservoir, which still contains the waters of a spring which here takes its rise. Within the Hellenic enclosure are many foundations of ancient buildings and traces of terraces, now separated from each other by luxuriant bay-trees. The monastery is large, but contains no Hellenic remains. The hill of Porta is the limit of the valley of Aetos, so called Leaving Porta, we proceed in the direction of Katuna, through the valley, which, except at Aetos and Katuna, is uncultivated. In 2 hrs. we find ourselves immediately below St. Nicholas of Aetos, a monastery on the lower heights of the ridge attached to the castle peak. Katuna, 24 hrs., a large village. From Katuna we proceed to Lutraki and Balimbey, near the S. shore of the beautiful Ambracian Gulf. From thence to St. Basil, a village on the N. slope of the mountain of Pergandi, is 1 hr. Here there is nothing except a church of St. Basil, and a cluster of cottages. Vonitza is 3 hrs. from St. Basil. The road descends the mountain, crosses the elevated plain, re-enters the forests, and approaches Vonitza a little above some ancient foundations on the hill of St. Elias. The lower road from Katuna to Vonitza has been described above (Rte. 16). From Kandili a rugged path leads by Mytika and Zaverdha to Santa Maura, a distance of about 5 hrs. Aetos bring the traveller to a gorge | irrigation of the plain. Thus Hellenic near the village of Lavitza, through construction and Cyclopean labours which a torrent forces its way into the were here devoted to a useful work, plain of Mytika, separated from the and remain at the present day an island of Kalamos by a very narrow instructive lesson. strait of the sea. On the summit of the pass is a small and beautiful Hellenic tower. Descending the mountain, we cross the plain of Mytika to the In the year B.C. 374 the bay of Alyzea Paleo-kastron of Kandili, the name was the scene of a naval victory, gained given to the ruins of Alyzea, situated by 60 Athenian ships, commanded by above the village of Kandili, about Timotheus, over the Lacedemonians, 1 hr. from the sea. The walls are in under Nicolochus: on which occasion the best Hellenic style, and probably, the historian relates that Timotheus of all the cities in this part of Acar-retired after the battle to Alyzea, nania, Alyzea would best repay excavation and research. Near the apex of the plain of Mytika -a triangular level, of which the shore is the base, and two chains of lofty and abrupt mountains form the sides -a stream has forced a magnificent passage through the limestone, and, restrained there by an embankment, has accumulated its waters for the where he erected a trophy; that the Lacedemonians, having been reinforced by six ships from Ambracia, again offered him battle, and that when Timotheus refused to come forth, Nicolochus erected a trophy on one of the neighbouring islands, probably that of Kalamos, anciently Carnus, and which is now a dependency of Ithaca (Section I.). PART II.-THE PELOPONNESUS. INTRODUCTORY REMARKS. THE isthmus of Corinth is so narrow in comparison with the size of the peninsula, that the ancient Greeks called the latter the Island of Pelops-or Peloponnesus--after the mythical hero of that name. In fact, it has all the advantages, without the drawbacks, of an insular situation. The mediæval name of Morea is derived by some writers from the mulberry-trees (uopéa) grown there, or from its resemblance in form to a mulberry-leaf. But, as Strabo and Piny observed, the Peloponnesus more nearly resembles in shape the leaf of a plane-tree or vine; and Morea was probably derived from the Slavonic word Moré, the sea, as being, par excellence, the maritime province of Greece. The name dates from the period when the peninsula was overcome by Slavonians, who have left many traces in the modern names of towns and mountains. Arcadia is the Switzerland of the Peloponnesus. This Alpine district is encircled by an irregular wall of mountains, from which lateral branches extend in various directions to the sea. The highest peak is that of Taygetus, 7905 ft. above the sea; the next Kyllene, 7788 ft. Erymanthus rises to the height of 7297 ft., and the Aroanian mountains (Khelmós) to that of 7726 ft. The other principal summits, are those of Mount Panachaicum above Patras (6322 ft.), Mount Lykæus (4659 ft.), Mount Artemisium (5814 ft.), &c. The chief river-the Achelous of the Peloponnese-is the Alpheus. The Peloponnesus contains five of the thirteen departments, or nomes, into which the kingdom of Greece is divided; and these divisions correspond with tolerable accuracy to the ancient districts whose names they bear. Though the surface of the Peninsula is only about one-third more extensive than that of Yorkshire, there is probably no part of the world which will more fully repay a tour of a month or six weeks. The scenery, both of the great historic sites and of the more obscure retreats of the Peloponnese, is of the rarest grandeur and beauty, and stamps itself on the memory with distinctness. Other sights and length of time do not confuse or alter its impressions. The cloud-capped Acropolis of Corinth, the primeval remains of Tiryns and Mykenæ, the hollow, stadium-like valley of Sparta, the massive walls and towers of Messene, with the altar-like hill of Ithome above, the mountainshrine of Bassæ, the beautiful vale of Olympia, the Convent of the Great Cavern (Megaspeleon), the vast caldron-glen and cliff of the Styx, the secluded lake of Pheneus, with the curious phenomena of the rise and fall of its waters, all these are among the choice places of the earth which, once seen, live in perpetual freshness in the imagination. The following routes will point out to the traveller the most striking features of the Peloponnese. Still there is doubtless room for discovery, at least in the way of natural beauty, for those who deviate from the beaten tracks. We cannot doubt that there would be much to reward a diligent explorer in the mountains of Epidaurus and Trozen, and in the volcanic peninsula of Methana; in the hills of Isakonia, where a primitive dialect still lingers; in the chain of Erymanthus, S.W. of Patras; and, above all, in the crags and recesses of Taygetus. sessing a powerful navy. About B.C. 500, the Æginetans held the empire of the sea; and at the battle of Salamis, B.C. 480, they were admitted to have distinguished themselves above all ATHENS TO NAUPLIA (BY EPIDAURUS). other Greeks for their bravery. Long Hrs. M. Mil. 0 0 11 7 0 9 0 a rival of Athens, Egina succumbed to her in B.C. 456, and became a portion of the Athenian empire. But, 0 0 11 dreading the vicinity of such discontented subjects, Pericles, who used to called the island the Eye-sore of the Piræus, expelled the whole population in B.C. 431, and filled their place with Athenian settlers. The expelled Eginetans were settled by the Spartans in Thyrea, and, though restored to their country at the close of the Peloponnesian war, they never recovered their ancient power and prosperity. Boats can be hired in the Piræus at reasonable rates for excursions in all directions. Ægina may be visited in a separate excursion from Athens, or en route for the Peloponnesus. In shape the island is an irregular triangle, and contains about 41 square m. Its western half consists of a plain, which, though stony, is well cultivated with corn, but the remainder of the island is mountainous and unproductive. A magnificent conical hill, called Oros, occupies the whole southern part of the island, and is the most remarkable among the natural features of Ægina. Notwithstanding its small size, Egina was one of the most celebrated of the Greek islands. It was famous in the mythical period; and in historical times we find it peopled by Dorians from Epidaurus, and pos The island of Ægina is distant about 11 m. from the Piræus, and nearly the same from Epidaurus. It was one of the few places which escaped the calamities of the devastating war of the Revolution. It was for some time, in 1828-29, the seat of the Greek government; and many rich families of the Peloponnesus bought land and settled here, added to which, refugees from Scio and Psara flocked hither in great numbers; so that in 1829 it became the resort of a mixed population of about 10,000 Greeks from all |