half Oriental and half European, com- | bines luxury with convenience, whilst its solidity and want of ornament show that it has been made for comfort, not for ostentation. Several monasteries are perched on the cliffs, and the churches and religious establishments amount to 100, some of them possessing ornaments of value. The Hydriote women are pretty; their dress is picturesque. The men are athletic and well formed. The share which this little island took in the regeneration of Greece brought it conspicuously into notice; and to late posterity the names of Conduriotti, Tombazi, Boudouri, and Miaulis, all natives of Hydra, will be cited as those of champions of freedom. The integrity, disinterestedness, and unanimity of these islanders formed a striking contrast to the covetousness, love of plunder, and discord of the Moréote chiefs. The family of Miaulis had been long established at Hydra, and Miaulis was accustomed to the sea. Being entrusted at 19 by his father with the management of a small brig in the Archipelago, his successes were such that he became amongst the richest of the islanders; but the loss of a vessel on the coast of Spain, which, together with her cargo, was his own property, and worth about 160,000 piastres, reduced his circumstances. A few years, however, recruited his fortunes so far as, at the opening of the war, to enable him to contribute three brigs to the navy of Greece. He had at one time been captured by Lord Nelson: his companions, after a strict investigation, maintaining that their cargo was not French property, were condemned; whilst his frankness in admitting the justness of the capture induced the British admiral to give him his liberty. His manners were friendly and unaffected. He was above vaunting or affectation, and only anxious to achieve the liberation of his country. Whilst the bravery of his associates was mingled with a considerable alloy of selfish ambition, Miaulis displayed a cloudless career of patriotism. He died in August, 1835, and lies interred at the Piræus, where a temporary monument has been raised to his memory. The island of Hydra is 12 m. from Spetzia. It is 11 m. long, and 3 m. broad. A few fishermen and peasants, forced from the neighbouring continent by the oppression of the Turks, raised the first nucleus of a town; to which, afterwards, numbers of others crowded from Albania, Argolis, and Attica. The descendants of these, and of the refugees who took shelter here after the expedition of the Russians to the Morea in 1770, form the present population of the island. In 1825 its population was estimated at 40,000; but in 1871 it but numbers 11,684. Previous to the Revolution, the island enjoyed the privilege of self-government, no Mussulman being allowed to reside there. A senate, or council of primates was elected. They chose a president, whose appointment required the confirmation of the Porte, to which he became responsible for the tribute, and for the stipulated contingent of sailors furnished to the Ottoman navy. The islanders were the richest in the Archipelago. The ship-owners not only almost exclusively possessed the carrying trade of the Black Sea and the Mediterranean, but many extended their voyages to England and the Baltic. At the commencement of the war, the commercial navy of Hydra amounted to 150 vessels. So proverbial was the honesty of the islanders that, on the departure of a vessel on a distant voyage, it was the practice of the captain to call at the various houses, previous to setting sail, and receive sums of money on speculation, for which no receipt was taken; and no instance is recorded of any captain having failed, within two days of his return, to call and give back the money, with the accumulated profits. Both Hydra and Spetzia have declined since the Revolution; more accessible places having now become the chief centres of Greek commerce. Kastri is opposite the island of Hydra. It is the representative of the ancient Hermione, which was situated on the promontory below the modern | the Executive, is nearly opposite to village. Neptune, Apollo, Isis and Spetzia. It is a most interesting voySerapis, Venus, Ceres, Bacchus, Di- age of about 2 hrs., during which ana, Vesta and Minerva had all the voyager enjoys delightful scenery, temples here; but their foundations and, for the most part, a cool seaand the walls of the city alone remain. breeze, into the beautiful bay of NauThere was also a grove consecrated to plia; where he may expect to arrive the Graces and behind the temple of if the days be long, sufficiently early Ceres was one of those unfathomable to perform the ascent of fort Palamede caverns which were believed to be the same afternoon. mouths of the infernal regions. Kastri has two excellent ports; the inhabitants, like most of the people of Argolis and the neighbouring islands, are of Albanian race. Nauplia; Ital. Napoli di Romania; Inns, very inferior, and constantly changing names and proprietors. The Hôtel d'Agamemnon and the Hôtel de la Paix (ʼn Eiphvn) are the best. Beware in Nauplia of dirt and vermin, and make a bargain beforehand. Nauplia is easy of access, from its communication by steam with Athens once a week in about 11 hrs. The approach from the sea is very striking. The lion of St. Mark, and the arms of the Venetian Republic over the gate, on the land side, remind one that one is about to enter a modern stronghold. The grand and lofty rock Palamede rises precipitously, crowned with a strong fortress. From Hydra the steamer proceeds to the island of Spetzia (or Spetzæ) in 2 hrs. It is a miniature likeness of Hydra, though less rocky and better cultivated. The town is built on the eastern shore of the island, and contains 9766 inhabitants. Its streets are better than those of Hydra, its houses are equally good, and the same taste for cleanliness and comfort prevails here. From its situation, the place is almost incapable of defence, and the few batteries which lie along the shore were for the most part dismantled during the Revolution, for the sake of The classical reader will recollect placing the guns in the ships of war. that Palamedes (son of Nauplius), the The security of the Spetziotes rested on founder of this city, detected the the narrowness of the strait which feigned insanity of Ulysses, when sowseparates their island from the Morea, ing the sea-shore with salt, and was, the dread entertained by the Turks of by the vengeance of the Ithacan, put their fire-ships in so narrow a channel, to death by the Greeks, early in the and the facilities of obtaining succour Trojan war: after him is called to this or making their escape. Spetzia fur-day the Palamede (Пaλaμýdiov). nished sixteen ships for the Greek navy, besides two fire-ships. This island is the ancient Tiparenos. The population is chiefly engaged in commercial pursuits. The port is good and much frequented. The Spetziotes are proprietors of many fine vessels, and, in conjunction with the Hydriotes and Psariots, performed prodigies of valour during the war. The climate is so salubrious that invalids are frequently sent here for their health. The women are hand some. Kranidi, to which, in 1823, the Greek Senate transferred its sittings in consequence of the rupture with Nauplia became the seat of government soon after it fell into the hands of the Greeks, and continued such, until King Otho removed his residence to Athens, in December, 1834. The excellence of its port and the strength of its fortresses, made Nauplia the capital of Greece; but since the removal of the government, it has greatly fallen off in prosperity. The principal street, which is rather picturesque, was planned in the time of Capodistria. It divides the town into two equal parts, connecting the two squares, and terminating at the land gate. On the arrival of the King and the Regency, the town rapidly improved, the streets wer cleared of rubbish, a regular line of building was preserved, and Nauplia soon became a neat and cleanly residence, with tolerable shops and goodlooking houses. The appearance of the inhabitants, the bustle in the shops, and the general air of cleanliness about the town, made it appear the first and most flourishing city in Greece. The chief square is spacious, and is principally occupied by barracks, restaurants, and coffee-houses. The second square is much smaller; in it is situated the house formerly occupied by Capodistria, and afterwards converted into a palace for King Otho. The new houses, which have been built in the European style, are, generally speaking, ill-constructed and illarranged. Here and there projecting roofs and painted woodwork show what was once a Turkish house. Before the Revolution, few Christians were allowed to live within the town. The roadstead of Nauplia is one of the best in Greece; it is perfectly protected by both fortresses, and sheltered on all sides, with a great depth of water, and a good anchorage in all parts. Within the port, on a small island, is a castle called the Burj, which, at one time, was used for defence, but is now converted into a prison. The town occupies a space between the sea and the fortress of the AcroNauplia; some of the streets being built on the acclivity ascending to this fortress. The confined situation of Nauplia, and the malaria from the marshes, render it unhealthy. The only ch. worthy of notice is that of St. Spiridion, celebrated as the spot where Capodistria fell by the hand of George Mavromikhali. The National Assembly in 1844 passed a resolution to the effect that a statue shall be erected at Nauplia to Capodistria. There is a monument to Prince Demetrius Hypsilanti, in one of the squares. Previous to the revolution, the town contained only 4000 inhabitants; but before the removal of the court to Athens, the population had increased to 9000. It has now only 1781. The Fortress of the Palamede stands on the summit of a lofty and precipitous rock, 720 ft. above the level of the sea. It is inaccessible on all sides except at one point to the E., where it is connected with a range of barren hills, and was surnamed the Gibraltar of Greece. It has been deemed impregnable, and would probably be so with any other garrison than Greeks and Turks. The former, in fact, only obtained it by blockade. When all the Turkish gunners on the hill (reduced by famine to 7) descended to the town by night in search of provisions, the Greeks approached and took possession; and the standard of the Cross floated on the summit during the remainder of the war. It is asserted that a palikar once reached the fortress by climbing up the face of the rock. The fortifications built by the Venetians are very massive, but in bad preservation; several brass guns remain, some of which bear the date of 1687 and the stamp of the lion of St. Mark. Prodigious cisterns have been hewn in the rock, and measures have been adopted for receiving all the rain that falls, which is then conducted into these cisterns, which are so spacious that they contain an ample supply of water for a garrison for three years. The direct ascent from the town is by a zigzag path, cut in steps in the face of the rock. The view from the Palamede is magnificent, embracing the plain of Argos, the mountains of Arcadia and Sparta, and the beautiful Argolic Gulf. The second fortress, that of the AcroNauplia (or Itch Kali, as it was called by the Turks) is built on a peninsular rock, rising above the town, at the foot of the Palamede. The summit is encompassed by walls, whose foundations are the only traces of antiquity in the immediate vicinity. Numerous batteries protect it on all sides. The Venetians attempted to make it an island, by cutting through the rock, and letting the sea flow round it, in which they partially succeeded. The fortifications of the town are all Venetian, and consist of an extensive wall, now much out of repair, with out works, bastions, &c. One of the chief | in addition to the prescribed number batteries is called The Five Brothers, deriving its name from mounting five Venetian 60-pounders. To visit the Palamede and the AcroNauplia, permission must be obtained from the military authorities; but it will be granted on application. This is the chief fortress and garrison of the Greek kingdom. The modern town occupies the site of Nauplia, the port-town of Argos, and one of the most ancient cities in Greece, but deserted at the period of Pausanias' visit. There are vestiges of Cyclopean walls embedded in the fortifications. Several interesting excursions may be made from here, and a traveller may spend a week agreeably before commencing his tour in the Peloponnesus. The horses are good, and one would do well to hire animals here for the tour round the Morea, in order to save trouble and delay in the villages on the road. The usual promenade of the Nauplians is beyond the suburb of Pronia, a village built by Capodistria. The gates of Nauplia are closed at 7 P.M., but the town may still be entered by taking a boat from the stairs close to the gates. From Nauplia to Port Tolon is nearly 2 hrs. Leaving the bay by the road to Epidaurus, we turn off to the rt, and ascend a steep hill by the sea. On this hill are the foundations of an ancient town and castle, overlooking Tolon. From the summit may be seen an extensive prospect of the Argolic peninsula and gulf, dotted with islets and rocks. There is a colony of emigrated Cretans in the village at Tolon. The ancient Asine was probably near the modern village of Tri, S. of Tolon. Before quitting Nauplia one may hire a boat to take one to Astros, a small village on the confines of Argolis and Laconia, within sight of Nauplia. Here the second Greek Congress was held, in the month of April, 1823. So great was the anxiety of the people to participate in the deliberations, that, of representatives, no fewer than fifty delegates were sent from different parts, to be present at the national congress, and, besides the soldiery, a large concourse was drawn to the spot. The meetings commenced on the 10th of April, and were held in a garden under the shade of orange-trees. The deputies and delegates amounted altogether to near 300. The Bey of Maina, Mavromikhali, was named President of the congress. Among other resolutions, Pietro Bey was named President of the Executive; Colocotroni, VicePresident, and George Conduriotti, President of the Senate. The Congress concluded its functions on the 30th of April, by issuing a declaration in which they reasserted the national independence, and returned thanks to the land and sea services for their noble efforts during the two preceding campaigns. Nauplia direct to Tripolitza From Nauplia to Tripolitza is 9 hrs. on horseback. There is a carriageroad from Nauplia to Mykens and Argos; and also from Nauplia to Tripolitza. N.B.-Inquire into their | Mykenæ lies in the northern apse of condition before starting. Steamers this curve, at a distance of 9 m. from run from Athens to Nauplia and back, the head of the Gulf. Hence no more once a week, remaining about 10 hrs. appropriate designation could be deat Nauplia. vised than that which describes Argos (by which term is meant the province as well as the city) as hollow, and Mykenæ as lying in a recess of the horse-feeding Argos · μυχῷ "Αργεος innoẞóтolo. The distance from Nauplia to Mykenæ is about 12 m. The road passes under the lofty rock on the S.E. of Nauplia, on which stands the citadel of Palamedes, and leaves on the rt., at about 1 m. N. of Nauplia, the Cyclopean walls of Tiryns. From Nauplia the road to Tripolitza winds round the head of the gulf to the Lernean marsh, which may be visited on this route, unless the traveller should prefer crossing the bay to see it, which, with a fair wind, may be done in an hour. A stranger will naturally be desirous of visiting this spot, celebrated in mythology as the place where Hercules destroyed the Lernean hydra. The Alkyonian lake is probably the lower part of the marsh; towards the southern mills it is still believed by the country people to be unfathomable. It is nothing more than a pool, overgrown with rushes, in the centre of the marsh, whence issues a strong current of water. The river Erasinus also issues in a copious stream near this spot from under Mount Chaon, and flows into the Argolic Gulf, turning a number of mills. The cavern from which the Erasinus issues resembles an acute Gothic arch, and extends 65 yds. into the mountain. This river is believed to be the same with the Stymphalus, which disappears under Mount Apelauron in Arcadia. The water is so clear and good that vessels invariably lie off the shore to take in a supply. The village near the mills is called Myli, and is especially noted as the spot where Demetrius Hypsilanti, with 600 men, defeated the Egyptian force of double that number. (See Finlay's or Gordon's 'History.') After leaving the Lernean Marsh, the road turns to the rt., and joins that from Argos to Tripolitza. Nauplia to Argos, by Tiryns and Mykenæ, 4 hrs. 20 min. Carriages and cabriolets can be hired, which will take the traveller to Mykenæ in 2 hrs. The Argolic plain is confined by a curved barrier of hills on all sides but the S., where it is bounded by the sea. The ruins of Tiryns, are situated about 2 m. ( hr.) from the gate of Nauplia, on the main road to Argos. Tiryns is fabled to have been built for Proetus by the Cyclopes, architects from Lycia, about the year 1379 B.C. The walls are nearly perfect, and are the best specimens of the military architecture of the heroic ages, being generally 25 ft. thick. The fortress being only of a mile in circumference, could only have been the citadel of the Tirynthii. There was ample room for the town on the S.W. side, where a plain, 200 yds. in breadth, separates the ruins from a marsh, which extends a mile farther to the sea. This city was destroyed by the Argives, 466 yrs. B.C. The ruins of Tiryns occupy the lowest and flattest of several rocky hills, which rise like islands out of the level plain. The finest specimens of Cyclopean masonry are near the remains of the eastern gate, where a ramp, supported by a wall of the same kind, leads up to the gate. The ramp is 20 ft. wide-the gate 15 ft. The wall of the fortress still rises 25 ft. above the top of the ramp. The principal entrance appears to have been on the S. side of the S.E. angle of the fortress, where an approach from the plain to an opening in the wall is still seen. The fortress appears to have consisted of an upper and lower enclosure, of nearly equal dimensions, with an intermediate platform, which may have served for the defence of the |