of hills.

The Khan of Acrata, 5 hrs.' ride from Megaspelion, is situated on the bank of the rapid river Crathis. This is the site of the ancient Egæ. From Acrata to Kamari is 5 hrs. The route was formerly across a long bridge over the Crathis, but it is now necessary to ford the river, the bridge having been partly carried away. After proceeding for 1 hr., the traveller crosses another stream. On the shore at this spot are some doubtful remains of antiquity. Half an hour farther are a rivulet and some ruins; to the rt. is the woody hill on which stood Egira; to the 1. is the port, or Navale Egira, choked with sand.

The route continues along the shore of the Gulf of Corinth, under the same chain of hills, which are frequently clothed with wood, and passing several mountain torrents, the traveller at length arrives at Kamari, a village on the coast, probably so called from the arches of an old aqueduct. A little farther on the road to Corinth is a khan. On the high peak above Kamari is a ch., with some remains, and there are also some traces of antiquity near the Khan of Kamari, in a plain between the hills and the coast. These are supposed to be the remains of the ancient Pellene.

Basilika, 3 to 4 hrs., is a rapidly improving village, situated on the angle of a little rocky ascent, along which ran the walls of Sikyon. This city was built in a triangular form on a high flat, overlooking the plain, about 1 hr. from the sea, near a great tumulus on the shore. The citadel was on the highest angle of Sikyon. On the road thither is a Roman brick ruin, near which is a large but imperfect theatre, of which one range of seats, one vomitorium, and the form of the cavea, are all that can be made out. The remains of the Stadium are in good preservation. It was of considerable extent, partly cut out of the rock, and partly artificial.

secure, without being inconveniently lofty. The view from the theatre is beautiful. The foundation walls of the Acropolis, those of the temple of Bacchus, the remains of some other temples, extensive foundations of Hellenic edifices, the pavement of the road, and the lines of the streets, may all be traced upon the level of this tabular hill. It is melancholy to read on this now desolate spot the catalogue which Pausanias has left of the many temples, statues, and pictures, which once adorned it. From Basilika to Corinth is 3 hrs. The road descending into the plain crosses the Asopus, and continues through groves of olives and vineyards.

Corinth.-For a description of Corinth, with the Acro-Corinth, the Isthmus, &c., see Rte. 1.

This route, occupying about a week, will show the traveller some of the finest scenery, and two of the most remarkable objects (the Styx and the Convent of Megaspelion) in the whole

From Argos we proceed into Arcadia by the road anciently called Primus. It follows the course of the Charadrus (now the Xeria, or Dry River) and afterwards ascends Mount Artemisium (Malerós). From the summit of the ridge there is a very interesting view over the upland plains of Arcadia, separated by the branches of various mountain ranges. Hence we descend

to

Tzipiána (9 hrs.), a flourishing village, built on rising ground, near the E. edge of the valley of Mantinea.

Hence our route passes the ruins of Mantinea (Rte. 23), and then turning N. crosses several ridges with intervening valleys. The scenery recalls all the associations connected with the rivers of Arcadia. There is a beautiful view over the Lake and plain of Phonia from the ridge at their S. extremity. From this point the path descends through a striking_gorge, adorned with fine forest-trees. It then winds along the eastern side of the lake, among groves of sweet-scented shrubs. Near the N. end of the lake, the size of which varies considerably in different seasons, is the town of

Phonia, 12 hrs. Rte. 35.

We ascend from the lake through a fine ravine. From the summit there are grand views on all sides. To the 1. are the snows, pines, and crags of Khelmos, the Aroanian range. Thence we descend by the bed of a torrent to the pretty village of Zaruchla. Then comes a most picturesque ride through the glen of Klakines to

Solos, 7 hrs. A straggling village built on the site of the ancient Nonacus, among groves of chestnut and walnut trees. 2 m. from Solos the Styx trickles over an inaccessible clit, from the grand and lofty Khelmos (Rte. 35).

The road to Megaspelion climbs up the steep and rugged Mount Olenos, having Khelmos, a mass of rock and snow, on the 1. From the summit of

There are 3 routes from Nauplia and Argos to Corinth.

The most circuitous, which is the most level, issues from the Argolic plain, at its N.W. angle, passes over some low hills, then turns to the rt., and arrives at Nemea; thence, bearing to the N.E. it leaves Cleone on the rt., and reaches Corinth after traversing about 33 m.

The other two roads are to the E. of the first; that nearest to it following, after its exit from the plain, two narrow defiles, which were of old known by the name of Tretus (8 7peTos), or perforated road (from the caverns fabled to be haunted by the Nemean lion), and which are now

called Dervenakia; the other, to the E. of this, is a footpath skirting the rugged mountains to the N. of Mykenæ, and was termed of old the Contoporeia, or staff road. These two latter routes were in 1822 the scene of the destruction of the Turkish army which had incautiously advanced into the plain of Argos without supplies. They are the Khyber Pass of the Peloponnesus. All the neighbouring towns were long afterwards a mart for the rich clothes and arms of the Turks, and for many subsequent years the ravines were strewed with the skeletons of men, horses, and camels.

The most interesting route for the traveller to follow is the second of those described above; viz., by Mykenæ, through the Tretus pass to Nemea; and thence by Cleona to Corinth.

From Nauplia it is 3 hrs. to Mykenæ (Rte. 23).

From Mykenæ to Nemea it is about 2 hrs. 20 min. by the Tretus road.

As he descends into the plain from Mykenæ, the traveller will observe that the rocks in this part, as in other districts of Greece, frequently assume the appearance of rude ancient masonry, like the ruins which he has just left. Quitting the Argolic plain, the road enters the defile called of old Tretus, or perforated road, and continues partly along the bed of the torrent. This pass was the chief scene of the destruction of the Turkish army in 1822, as stated above. The road emerges on the valley of Nemea.

Nemea. Near Nemea, to the rt., are many caves in the rocks, the haunts of the Nemean Lion of fable:

"There is a temple in ruins stands,

Fashion'd by long-forgotten hands;
Two or three columns, and many a stone,
Marble and granite, with grass o'ergrown!
Out upon Time! it will leave no more
Of the things to come than the things before!
Out upon Time! who for ever will leave
But enough of the past for the future to grieve
O'er that which hath been, and o'er that which
must be;

What we have seen, our sons shall see;
Remnants of things that have pass'd away,
Fragments of stone, rear'd by creatures of
Clay!"

Of the famous temple of Jupiter, the patron god of Nemea, three pillars only are now standing; but a portion of the cella, several prostrate columns almost entire, and fragments of the entablature still remain. The form and decorations are Doric, with nearly Ionic proportions. It is owing probably to the coarseness of the material that these ruins, like those of Pæstum, have been left in their place. The breadth of the temple was 65 ft., and the length more than double. The walls of the cella, pronaos, and porticus are together 105 ft. 2 in. in length: width 30 ft. 7 in. Two of the columns now standing belonged to the Pronaos, and were placed as usual between antæ: they are 4 ft. 7 in. in diameter at the base, and still support their architrave. The third column, which belonged to the outer range, is 5 ft. 3 in. in diameter at the base, and about 34 ft. high, including a capital of 2 ft. Its distance from the corresponding column of the pronaos is 18 ft. The total height of the three members of the entablature was 8 ft. 2 in. The general intercolumniation of the peristyle was 7 ft.; at the angles, 5 ft. 10 in. The entablature was less than one-fourth of the height of the column. The lowness of the extant architrave, and the smallness and narrowness of the capitals, give the impression that the building was inelegant, but it would be wrong to form this conclusion from a mere fragment.

At a small distance S. of the temple are other remains of the Doric order. Traces of the Nemean theatre are to be found at the foot of a hill not far distant. The valley is surrounded by mountains of considerable height, and the waters collected here run into the Corinthian Gulf.

Like Olympia, Nemea was a sanetuary and not a town. The place set apart for the celebration of the Nemean games was a level valley stretching from N. to S., nearly 3 m. in length, and 1 in breadth; but it had not, like Olympia, an Alpheus to adorn it, and was watered only by several rills which flow down from the mountains that

encircle it, the chief of which, that on the N.E., is Fuka, the ancient Apesas, with a flat summit, nearly 3000 ft. high.

Nemea is 1 hr. 15 min. from the site of

Cleone. The only remains here are some Hellenic fragments round a small height, on which are the foundation walls of several terraces. Cleona was a small town connected by alliance with Argos. It derived its only im

portance from the Nemean games being celebrated in its territory, in front of the Sanctuary of Nemea, between Cleonæ and Phlius.

Cleona to Corinth is 2 hrs. The road lies sometimes in the bed of a torrent, then crosses a bridge and ravine, and ascends by a steep path to two tumuli. It then descends to another deep ravine, and enters the plain of Corinth, across which it continues to the town (Rte. 1).