known Bowery. In this secluded spot Stuyvesant lived for eighteen years, dying in 1682 at the age of eighty, just when Penn came up the Delaware. He was buried in a vault on the site of St. Mark's Church, where a chapel then stood, and his brown gravestone now occupies a place in the church-wall. He was "Peter the Headstrong," the last of the Dutch governors, energetic, aristocratic, and overbearing, and described by Irving as a man “of such immense activity and decision of mind that he never sought nor accepted the advice of others." He was also further described as a "tough, sturdy, valiant, weather-beaten, mettlesome, obstinate, leather-sided, lion-hearted, generous, spirited old governor."

UNION SQUARE.

Returning to Broadway and renewing the northward walk, "Stewart's up-town store," which was his great retail mart, is passed, the huge white iron building stretching back to Fourth Avenue. Hither came many Philadelphians twenty years ago on shopping expeditions, before our own retail merchants had learnt their business as thoroughly as now. There are splendid stores around it, and Broadway for a mile above, with some of the adjacent streets, is now the great shopping-region of New York. A short distance beyond Stewart's is Grace Church, with its rich marble façade and beautiful spire. The parsonage adjoins, with a small enclosure in front, upon which the towering stores encroach as if resenting even that little space reserved from the grasp of trade. Broadway bends slightly to the left, and then at Fourteenth Street circles around Union Square, a pretty park of about four acres, oval in shape, with lawns and shrubbery, and adorned by statues of Washington, Lafayette, and Lincoln. This square is surrounded by grand buildings and stores, among the chief being Tiffany's noted jewelry store, where fashionable New York spends a good deal of money. Four

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teenth Street is a wide avenue, having an extensive retail shopping-trade, and this neighborhood is a great locality for theatres, Union Square being a veritable "Rialto" for the actors. To the eastward of Broadway, on Fourteenth Street, is the Academy of Music, a plain, red-brick building of ample proportions. Just beyond is "Tammany Hall," headquarters of the Democratic "bosses" and "sachems" who largely rule the town-also a stone-faced brick structure, but taller and much more pretentious, and surmounted by a statue of the presiding genius of the "Hall," the Indian warrior St. Tammany, who with outstretched hand beneficently looks down upon us. Old Tammany, who has thus been made the presiding genius of the peculiar politics of New York, was a chief of the Lenni Lenapes or Delawares, and was more used to the mild and just methods of William Penn and his Quaker brethren than to the schemes of plunder and trickery over which New York has made him a sort of patron saint. Across the street, and possibly as a warning (though little heeded), the pretty little Grace Chapel is inserted among the rows of drinking-shops and concert-halls with which this section. abounds.

MADISON SQUARE.

Again we return to Broadway. Sixteenth Street passes eastward to Stuyvesant Square with its fine St. George's Church. Twentieth Street, also to the east, leads off to the handsome residences of Gramercy Park, where Samuel J. Tilden lived, and where is located that princely gift which Edwin Booth has recently given his profession-the "Players' Club." Beyond, in Broadway, rise like giants three of the noted stores of the street-the carpet warehouse of W. & J. Sloane and the dry-goods stores of Arnold, Constable & Co. and Lord & Taylor. Thus passing one famous establishment after another, with the ceaseless roar of the street-traffic all the while dinning in our ears, we come to

Madison Square. Here is Twenty-third Street, a wide avenue crossing the town, and at their intersection Broadway also diagonally crosses Fifth Avenue. This junction of famous streets has laid out adjoining it an open square covering about six acres, with attractive lawns, trees, and footwalks. It is surrounded by large hotels and noted buildings, and the light stone and general airiness of construction, combined with the trees and grass of the square and the crowds moving in every direction, give the locality an appearance that is decidedly Parisian. Far to the northward Fifth Avenue stretches with its rows of brownstone residences, while Broadway in both directions is the home. of business and is a constant and never-ending kaleidoscope from its enormous travel. Both are wide streets, filled from dawn till midnight with thousands of people and vehicles, the brilliancy of the electric illumination in and around. the square making the night almost as bright as day. The yellow horse-cars move rapidly and closely together along Broadway upon the road whose franchise was got by Jacob Sharp's bribery of the New York "boodle" Board of Aldermen, several of whom, including Sharp himself, have paid the penalty of their knavery. Yet the construction of this railway, though stoutly resisted for many years, was a great relief to Broadway and a convenience for all New York. The people could not now do without it. The control has passed into the hands of a Philadelphia syndicate, and I understand they contemplate putting a cable motor under the street. The fact that the ordinary New York streettraffic is not carried in vehicles of the same gauge as the railways is of advantage, as it distributes them over the street, instead of putting all on the street-rails, as in Philadelphia. This enables Broadway to carry much more traffic than any of our ordinary streets.

Alongside the intersection of Broadway and Fifth Avenue at Madison Square is the monument to General Worth, a handsome granite shaft erected in memory of that hero of

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the Mexican War. The plateau whereon it stands is availed of as the site for the reviewing stage for processions. Hither comes the President or the mayor on great occasions, and when elaborate political or other displays are made Madison Square is an attractive place. In fact, it occupies in New York much the position of the Place de la Concorde in Paris or Trafalgar Square in London. It is the great public assembly-ground, and during many years has seen New York's greatest outpourings. Bronze statues of Admiral Farragut and William H. Seward adorn the square. At its north-west corner is Delmonico's famous restaurant, whose owner, after feeding the jeunesse dorée of New York upon the choicest viands for many years, lost his mind, and in a fit of aberration wandered over into the wilderness in New Jersey, and, becoming lost in the woods, actually died there of starvation. The house still holds its high reputation, and is the great place for balls and banquets. Upon the west side of the square is a row of stately hotels, the Fifth Avenue, with its white marble front, being the most imposing, while just above is the Hoffman House, noted as containing the most gorgeously appointed drinking-saloon of New York, where the highest art in rich decorations, painting, and sculpture is invoked by its proprietor to attract custom to its bar. Splendid stores and residences, art-galleries, hotels, and restaurants are in abundance around this celebrated square, and the adjoining streets abound in theatres, churches, and popular public resorts. Upon the east side is the noted Madison Square Garden. In fact, Madison Square is the social and fashionable centre of modern New York. Above this famous locality Broadway stretches two miles to Central Park, passing many hotels and theatres, and also several of the very tall "French flats," buildings that have been devised for residences in the crowded city, where the scarcity of land surface is made up by adopting the methods of the Tower of Babel and elevating the houses toward the sky. It also

passes the new Metropolitan Opera-House, the finest place of amusement in the city, which the present generation of wealth and fashion built to eclipse the old Academy of Music on Fourteenth Street that satisfied their fathers. But it is a profitless investment as yet. There are theatres and concert-halls, casinos and other resorts, almost without number. Beyond the Park, Broadway is prolonged as the magnificent "Grand Boulevard," and thus it leads to the remote northern suburbs.

V.

FIFTH AVENUE.

THEY tell us in New York that the main object of working so hard to get rich is to be able to live in a brownstone mansion upon Fifth Avenue. Here reside most of "the select four hundred" who are said to be the exclusive social-status set of Gotham. Their street is a grand one, a hundred feet wide, extending northward almost in the centre of Manhattan Island. Yet it had a humble beginning, starting from the original "Potter's Field," where for many years the outcast and the unknown were buried and over a hundred thousand bodies were interred. The city spread beyond this cemetery when it was determined to make the place a park, and thus was formed Washington Square, covering about nine acres on Fourth Street, a short distance west of Broadway, from which the famous street is laid out for six miles in a straight line northward to the Harlem River. For three miles it is bordered by palatial homes, and then for over two miles more it is the eastern boundary of Central Park, while beyond are villas. The street gives a magnificent display of the best residential and church architecture of New York, the progress northward into the newer portions showing how time has changed