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the children do in our country, when we give them fomething that is strange or pleasing to them) smiled at it as often as they look'd on it. The country thereabouts is pretty fertile and plentiful of corn, Indian millet, cotton, &c. and they have also between the rivers very good gardens for the kitchen, with all sorts of plants and fruits in them, viz. Colliflowers, Citruls, Pumpions, Cucumbers, Anguries or Water-melons, which they call Bathiece, whereof they have so many that you may buy forty great ones for one Asper, whereof three make a Medin, much about the value of our penny. There were also fome Date-trees, Limon and Citron, and other trees, which I could not distinguish at a distance.

CH A P. V.

Of our Voyage to the famous town Ana, in which we passed again through great sandy wildernesjes ; for the performance whereof we must provide ourselves with viétuals, and be very careful in our navigation : Some relation of the inhabitants, of their cloaths, and other things we did observe and see by the way, and what else did happen unto



FTER we had paid the custom to the Armin, who was a great deal more civil than he at Racka,

and provided ourselves with all necessaries, we did but half load our ships, to draw them out of the branch again into the river, and then we carry'd the rest to them by boats and small ships, for the water was very low and full of mud, so that we went from thence on the fourth day of October in the evening, and so staid all night, a little below Deer.

The next morning our navigation proceeded very well till noon, when we caine to a very broad and shallow place of the river, that our master did not know which



way to get through. When he was thus troubled and considering, there appeared on the hight on the shoar fome Arabians, and shewed the course we must take, but we durft not trust them, for we had heard before that they had funk some great itones there, and that a month before they had persuaded a fhip to go that way which did not discover their cheat, until their fhip after several hard knocks did split in pieces and sink. The same they would have served others, which, although they did not follow their counsel yet they came into such danger, that they could not deliver themselves out of it in a whole days time. We (thanks be to God) got sooner through than in an hour, after we had drawn our ship a little back into the deep stream to the great admiration of the Arabians : But the other in our company did not stick much longer, yet we had more to do to get her off, because she was shorter with a hollow bottom, wherefore she was sooner turned, but could not be got out so well as ours which was flat bottom’d. In the evening very early we saw at a' great distance on the other side in Mesopotamia, castle in the plain called Sere, which the Arabians, as they say, have many years ago demolished, which the river Chabu, which is pretty large, runs by, which beginneth not much abovet he castle (which one may guess by it's fresh water like unto fountain-water) and runs a little way below into the river Euphrates. From thence we thought to have reached Errachaby, a town belonging to the King of Arabia, but being hindred in our navigation, as is abovementioned, we landed a little above this before the night befel us, and went the next morning carly to the before-mentioned town, which was pretty large, and lay about half a league from the river in a very fruitful country, where we staid until the next day to sell fome goods there. Wherefore two of ours went into the town to call out some of their Merchants to trade with them.

After they had spent that whole day with them, we went off the next morning early toward Schara, a little village which lieth on the right hand half a league distant from the river belonging to the King of Arabia, where we landed to pay the usual custom. All about the sides



and the river, I saw a great many bushes and trees. I would fain have been at them to discern what they were, that I might have viewed them exactly, but I was forced to stay in the ship and so I mifled them. From Schara our navigation went on for several days very well, but chiefly through fandy desarts which were as large as any we had before passed; for they extended sometimes so far, that we could not see the end of them; and they were so dry, that you could see neither plough, land nor meadow, tree, nor bush, leaf, nor grass, nor path to go in ; wherefore these may very well be called desarts, which are also called the sandy seas. First you must expect there great storms, as well as in the seas, which cause waves in the sand as well as at sea ; then those that go in great caravans through them, must have their leader or pilot, by them called Caliphi, as well as those at sea, who knows how to direct their way by the compass, as pilots do on shipboard. Then they provide themselves, because the way is very long through them, with victuals for a long time, as well as those that go by sea, wherefore they load generally the third part of their camels with provisions, chiefly with water to refresh themselves and their beasts in the great heat of the sun, for throughout all the defarts there is never a spring to be found, except one should light by chance on a cistern, which yet are also generally dry, for nothing but the rain filSeth them. The Turkish Emperors have ordered 30000 of these cisterns to be dug in the ground in these desarts (as I was informed when I was at Aleppo) and to be provided with water, that their armies when they marched from place to place in those times when they had war with the Kings of Persia or Arabia, &c. might not want for water, and if one should be empty they might perhaps find some in the others. In these wildernefles I saw nothing worth speaking of, but on the gth of October, fome ancient turrets that stood upon the high banks on a point called Eusy, where, as some fay, hath been formerly a famous town, Thereabouts the river taketh fo large a circumference, that we went longer than half a day, before we could pass it. By the same river below us, we saw on the other side of it several Arabians on horseback ; and nothing else remarkable, but as I have told you before, fome small huts of the Moors, who came to see us often, but chiefly at night time to pilfer something, which they are used to from their infancy. Wherefore it behoved us to have great care, and to keap a good watch, as I did find it the fame night: For when it was come to my turn to stand centinel again, which I commonly did in the hindermost part of the ship on high, that I might espy the thieves the sooner if any should come, I laid down by me a good cudgel, as we all used to do every time, so I lay down and wrap'd myself up in a frize coat with hanging sleeves to it, to keep myself from the frost and dew, which are very frequent and violent there. After long watching, I began to be drowsy and fell asleep, a thief came through the water to the ship, where I was laid down very silently, and took hold of one of my sleeves that hung down, in hopes to draw out the coat gently, not knowing that I was in it: So I was sensible that somebody was there that would steal the coat, and got up, and seeing the head of the rogue, I took hold of my long cudgel to have a blow at him ; but he was too nimble for me, swam back and ran away : The rest that lay by me were awakened at this, and did perceive that I had seen somebody, but did not know the particulars, so they were very glad that I had frightened away the thief, and gave me thanks for my great care and diligent watching. As the Moors by night follow their robbery, so they came by daylight often with their wives, to trade with

Wherefore our master sometimes to please fome Merchants did sooner land, who took all sorts of goods out with him, as soap-balls, beads of chrystal, and yellow agates, glass rings of several colours, which they wear on their hands and feet ; and several other toys made of red, yellow, green and blue glass ; and set in tin, brass, or lead, high fhoes, which are tied with leathern straps at the top, &c. for these goods they truck'd with the Moors for sheep's skins, buck's skins, cheese-curds, and several other things, and sometimes for money. These Moors do not differ much in their form from our gypsies, only that these are a



one I

good deal browner. They are very nimble in their actions, but they do not inuch care to work ; they řather spend their time in idle discourses, or begin to quarrel with one another with loud and big words, and a great clamour, but feldom are so much in earnest as to come blows. Their heads are shaved saving only the crown, where they let generally a long lock grow, like unto the Turks, that hangeth down behind. As to their cloathing, they wear coats made of course stuff, whole before, and without fleeves; they are pretty long before, and reach to their knees, such an wore on my journey, striped with white and black; underneath they have long shirts, which are cut out about the necks and reach down to their ankles; they are commonly blue, and have wide sleeves which they let fly about chiefly in their walking, when they Aing their arms about to shew their pride. These Thirts they gird up with broad leathern girdles so high, that you cannot see the girdle but only their bended dagger that sticks or hangs in them as we wear our swords. The archers put sometimes one of their arms out of their shirts, and so leave their breaft bare at the same time, that they may shoot and fight the freer without being hindred; those that are not able to buy shoes, take instead of them necks of undressed skins, and put them about their feet with the hair outwards, and so tie or lace them up.

The men wear no breeches, but the women do, and they come down to their ankles. Their faces are not veiled as the Turkish womens, but else they cover themselves with broad scarfs, which more incline to blue than to white, and let them (chiefly those that wear narrow ones) hang behind in

great knot. When they have a mind to be fine, they put on their precious things, as are marbles, amber beeds, glasses of feveral colours, &c. fixed to laces and hang them down their temples, which come down about a span long, and fly about from face to neck, so that in bending or moving their head, they often hurt their face, and do not a little hinder them in their actions. Those that are of greater substance, and have a mind to be richer and finer in their dress, wear filver and gold rings in one of their nostrils (as some do in one of their ears


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