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27. 28. 29. 30.
being that we found none of ours, nor having any bu-
After our men had filled water enough out of the well
CH A P. II.
Of the famous city of Tripoli, of it's fruitful neigh
bourhood and great trade: And also of the splendid
Their ways of making Rusma, Pot-afbes, Soap, &c.
EFORE Tripoli, near the sea-shore, we saw five
castles like high towers, distant from one an other about a musquet-Thot, where some Janisaries are kept in garrison, to cover the ships in the harbour (which is in some measure furrounded with rocks) and to defend that custom-house, and the several ware-houses (where you" may see all forts of goods brought from most parts of the world) from an hostile attempt or assault : but after the sun was set, and night began to approach, we made what haste we could to the town, which was an hour's. going distant from us. Some Turks went with us no otherways armed but with good strong cudgels, which, I was told, they commonly carry to keep off the wolves cailed Jacals (whereof there are a great many in these countries that are used to run, seek, and pursue after their prey in the night). While we were a talking of themi fome came up pretty near us, but as soon as they saw us they turned and ran away. When we came to the
gate of the town we found it shut up, wherefore one of our friends, that met us to make us welcome, called to fome Frenchmen that were in their inn, in their language called Fondique, which is near the gate, and reacheth quite to the wall of the town, and desired that one of them would take the pains to go to the Sangiacho, to defire him to let the gate be opened to let us in, which they were willing to do. But in the mean time that we staid before the gate, another that was an enemy to our friend ran also away, and bespoke fome Turks and Moors to set upon us, which they were very willing to do, and came with all speed through another gate that is never shut, along the wall to us, fell unawares upo:1 us, ftruck at us, and took hold of us, chiefly at our good friend, for whose fake all this was done ; others drew theit fcymiters upon us, so that I thought we should have been all cut to pieces. While this was a doing the gate was opened, and some Frenchmen and their Conful himself came to our assistance, and spoke to these fellows, earnestly exhorting them to defiit, and to let the cause be decided by the Sangiacho and Cadi, which at length they did. So we came after this unfriendly welcome in the crowd into their Fondime, where we remained all that night. The Contul was very much displeased at this, considering that such-like proceedings would be very troublesome to them, wherefore he made great complaints and enquiries, until at length he found out who was the author thereof.
The next morning we ivent to our friends houses in order to stay a while with them : In the mean time we walked sometimes about in our own cloaths to see the town, which is situated in the country of Syria, called Phønicia, which reached along the sea-shore to Berinthus, Sidon, Tyrus, and Acon, as far as the mountain of Carmelus. The town Tripoli is pretty large, full of people, and of good account, because of the great depo-. sition of merchandizes that are brought thither daily both by sea and land : It is situated in a pleasant country, near the promontory of the high mountain Libanus, in a gicat plain toward the sea-hore, where you may fee abundance of vineyards, and very fine gardens, enclosed with hedges for the most part, consisting chiefly of Rhamnus, Pas
liurus, Oxyacantha, Phillyrea, Lycium, Balaustium, Rubus, and little Palm-trees, that are but low, and so sprout and spread themselves. In these gardens, as we came in, we found all sorts of sallating and kitchen-herbe, as Endive, Lettice, Ruckoli, Asparagus, Seleri, whose tops are very good to be eaten with salt and pepper, but chiefy that fort that cometh from Cyprus, Taragon by the inhabitants called Tarchon, Cabbages, Colliflowers, Turneps, Horseradishes, Carrots, of the greater fort of Fennel, Onions, Garlick, &c. And also fruit, as Water-melons, Melons, Gourds, Citruls, Melongena, Sesamum (by the Natives called Samsaim, the seeds whereof are very much used to strow
upon their bread) and many more ; but chiefly the Colocasia, which is very common there, and are fold all the year long : I have also found them grow wild about rivulets, but could never see either flowers or seeds on them. I found also without the gardens many Dates and white Mulberry-trees, which exceed our Aspen and Nut-trees in height very much ; and also Pomgranattrees and Siliqua, which the Grecians call Xylocerata, the Arabs, Charnuby. Also Olive and Almond-trees, and Sebesten, the fruit whereof are to be had at Apos thecaries shops by the same name: Poma Adami Matth. But in great plenty there are Citrons, Lemons, and Oranges, which are as little eaten there as Pears or Crabs here. Between these gardens run several roads and pleasant walks, chiefly in the summer, for they afford many Ihady places and greens, where you are defended from the heat and the sun-beams : And if passing through you should have a mind to some of the fruits, you may either gather some that are fallen down, or else pull them from the nearest trees without danger, and take them home with you.
Without at the sea-fhore, near the old town of Tripoli (which together with many more, as Antiochia, Laodicca, &c. in the year of our Lord 1183, was so destroyed by an earthquake, that nothing but a few marks remain) there were more spring-gardens, which some of the Mers chants still remember. But these were a few years agone by the violence of the seas so destroyed and so covered with fand, that now you see nothing there but a fandy ground, like unto the desarts of Arabic. Yet at Tripoli
they have no want of water, for several rivers flow down from the mountains, and run partly through the town, and partly through the gardens, so that they want no water neither in the gardens nor in their houses.
The new town in itself is of no strength, for it is so meanly walled in, that in several places in the night you may get in and out: But within there is a citadel' fituated
upon an ascent near the water, where a garrison of a few Janisaries is kept. They have low houses ill built and flat at the top, as they are generally in the East, for they cover their houses with a flat roof or a floor, so that you may walk about as far as the houses go; and the neighbours walk over the tops of their houses to visit one another, and sometimes in the summer they sleep on the tops of them : And so it may very well be, that the four men (of which we read in St Mark, chap. ii. and St Luke, chap. v.) that carried the paralytic man, and could not come to CHRIST because of the crowd of people, did carry him on the tops of the houses, and fo let him down through the roof into the room where our SAVIOUR was. They have not great doors, gates, or comings-in from the street as we have in our country, except some few Merchants houses, because they use neia ther waggons nor carts, wherefore they have only a little low door, sometimes not above three foot high, so that you cannot go into them without stooping. In a great many houses the comings-in are so dark and deep that one would think he were going into a cave or cellar, but when you are come through this entry into therr, you see, in fome, great court-yards wherein are cisterns to wash themselves in, in others large halls paved, and therein some ascents that go up two or three steps, paved delicately with marble, which they keep very clean, and adorned with rich tapestry, whereupon they fit, and this is covered with a large arch left open at one fide, that the Turks may, chiefly in the summer, fit underneath them very airy.
Their doors and houses are generally shut with wooden bolts, which are hollow within, and they unlock them with wooden keys about a span long, and about the thickness of a thumb, into this key they have driven, five, fix, feven, eight or nine short nails, or strong
Wires in such an order and distance that they just fit others that are within the lock, and so pull them forwards, or shut them backwards as they please.
The streets are but narrow, paved with broad stones, and have, chiefly those that are great roads, a channel in the middle of them about ten inches broad, so that à laden Camel
walk in them with ease, or that a man may step over them, which they say are made that the laden Camels or Asses, &c. that daily arrive in great caravans, may be obliged to walk in them one after another, in good order, that people may walk in the streets without being disturbed by them. And that these channels may be kept clean and dry, they have in some places fome hidden drains covered with broad stones, that as well the rain-water as that of the wells may run away through them.
They cannot brag of any fine buildings, fave only the Mosques or temples, into which no Christian must come, except he hath a mind to be circumcized, and so turn a Mammeluk or Renegado : And also some great houses by the natives called Champ or Carvatfcharas, (Caravanseries) wherein are a great many shops or ware-houses, and chambers by one another, as is in stately cloisters, in the middle 'thereof there is a great court-yard, where the strange Merchants (that daily bring their merchandizes in great caravans) do inn, considering that the Turks keep no other inns.
The inns commonly belong to the Grand Seignior, or his Basha, which they build in several towns-to get themselves a yearly revenue, as the Venetians do in Venice out of the German house.
Besides these buildings they have also hot-houses or bagnios, which are so glorious and sumptuous, that they far exceed all their other buildings in beauty, wherefore they are very well worth seeing. And because the Turks, Moors, and Arabs, &c. according to their Mahometan laws, are bound to bath themselves often, to wash themselves clean from their manifold fins which they daily commit, but chiefly when they are going to their Mosques, therefore they have their hot-houses always ready, and keep them warm and in an equal heat, with a very small charge, and with far less wood than one