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can imagine, all the week long, both by night and by day. They have under-ground a large and deep vault, like unto a large cellar, which is every where very close, and it hath no more but two air holes, one on the top about three or four inches diameter, and the other below which is a great deal larger, where they put in wood, or, for want of it, pieces of peat (which they make out of Camels or Goats dung, &c. and also out of the dregs of the pressed grapes); these are fo dry that the great heat melts them just like sea-coals or turf, which are burnt in the Low-countries, and other places where they have not plenty of wood : And these give so great a heat that it warmeth the whole vault quite through. And yet

this vault is so close made that you do not perceive the least smoke nor vapour, although it is fometimes very hot. But that the fire may not decay, there is one on purpose to attend it, that fings on as much fuel as is necessary to keep it. These hot-houses (which according to the custom of the ancient Greeks and Romans are magnificently built) have, near to the entry, a delicate hall, which is curiously paved (as also is the whole bath) and set with marbles of all colours very artificially, and a great Cupolo at the top thereof, which is covered with an arch in shape of a ball or globe. Round about the walls are broad benches made, where the people put off their cloaths ; wherefore this first part of the bath (whereof the ancients had five) was called Apodyterium, In the middle of the baths is a fine fountain, where they sprinkle every one that goeth out of the bath with sweet water, and also waih the bathing-cloaths that were made use of in the bath, which they afterwards fling up upon lines that are hung at the top of the vault, two or three fathoms high, with an admirable certainty, and spread them out with a long pole, with one stroke (that they may dry the fooner) so even, as if it were done with hands, which no body can fee without admiration ; when they have a mind to make use of them again, they take them down with the fame sticks that are ready fuck up about the fountain. These are wrought finely with all sorts of colours, whereof they give two to every one that goeth into the bath or bagnio,, two others when he cometh out, one to put upon his head, the

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other to put about him in the manner of an apron. When you will go in the hot-house you must go through two or three chambers, whereof one is warmer than the other (which each of them are covered with round arches) until you come into the great room, these arches are full of round holes all about, which are made in such order, and set with glass so curiously, that they do not only make them very light, but give also a fine ornament to them. In the great bath are several great marble vessels which they let the water into; round about the great room, there are three or four small chambers, which they keep chiefly for persons of quality, where they may wash themselves apart from others without any disturbance. Besides thefe there is still another room where there is a very great marble trough, in which every one may wash himself after his sweat; there are several pipes laid in it, that you may temper your water according to your own desire. All these rooms are heated with the same fire, and the Turks and Moors (which two nations have almost the same religion and ceremonies) go into them very frequently ; but chiefy the women, which flock to them in great numbers, for they never meet any where else, but here, and at the graves of their relations ; wherefore they keep these sumptuous buildings (the like whereto are hardly any where else found) in very good repair. As soon as you come into the hot-house, and are grown a little warm, one of the servants (which are generally black Moors) meets you, and lays you backwards down upon the floor, and stretcheth and snaps all your joints after such a manner that they crack again ; then he kneeleth down upon your arms, which he puts upon your breast one over the other, and holds them fo for a good while together with his knees, then he bendeth forwards and stretcheth with both his hands (keeping you still like a prisoner under him) your head upwards. (So it happened once, when some of us went in together, and were treated by the Moor after this manner, that he sprained the neck of one of my companions, so that he could not turn his head in several days after it) when this is done he turns you round upon your belly, toucheth and stretcheth your joints again in such a manner,


as if he did malax a plaister ; at length he stands upon your shoulder-blades, and bending himself down, he rubs you all over your back with his hands, then he lifteth you up, and goeth away. Then when you lay your self down to rest you, or to sweat, he maketh a paste, to take off your hair (for they wear no hair upon their body, faving only their arm-pits) he taketh quicklime (by the Arab's called Rils) and a little Sarnick, (Arsnick) that is, Orpiment, powders them, and mixeth them with water, and ancints your hair with it, and looks very often after it, until he finds that the hair begins to come off, then he washeth it perfectly off again, before it can hurt you ;) when this is done, he takes a fine white cloth, dips it in soap-suds, and rubs your whole body over with it. The before-mentioned cloaths are white like unto cotton, but the threads are harder, which the pilgrims bring with them from Mecca : Being made of the bark of trees that bear Bdellium, and they make ropes of them, as also of the fibers of the leaves of Palm-trees, and of the covering of the fruit of the same tree, which is of the bigness of a Wall-nut, by putting it on a distaff, and so spinning it out.

Lastly, They wash peoples heads, and mix fometimes with their lees (chiefy for women) an ash-coloured earth called Nalun, which cleanseth the head, and makes the hair grow long. They have also another earth called Jufabar, which the women eat frequently, so as breeding women in our country use to eat sometimes coals or other things. These their baths, are as free to strangers as Germans, French, Italians, &c. as to Moors and Turks, but they must have a care not to come into those where the women are, if they will not run the hazard of their lives. But that where the women are, they commonly hang a cloth over the door towards the street, that if any man should intend to go in there, when he feeth this he may find himself another entrance.

Further concerning their traffick, there are in the town (because there is there a very great deposition of all sorts of merchandizes, that are brought thither from great distances) a great many merchants, chiefly French

you may know his place.

and Italians, which have two wise, understanding, and grave Presidents, of which the one that liveth here is a Frenchman, and the other at Aleppo, a Venetian, called Consuls, to aflift their countrymen with good counsel. They are sent thither by. their government, and confirmed, and have great privileges given them of the Turkish Emperor, to let the Merchants with their commodities lodge with them, and to defend them against any assault of the Turks and Moors, that they may trade and deal without disturbance. These Consuls were still their usual habits, made of red fattin, velvet, or damask, &c. very richly adorned ; and they bring along with them Taylors, Shoe-makers, but chiefly their physicians, Apothecaries, Barber-Surgeons and Ministers, &c. and have besides them their Interpreters, skilful in the Turkish and Arabian language, chiefly the Conful of Venice, because he must stay there but three years, when they are expired the Dogue sends another in

When the new one is arrived at Tripoli he dare not go on shore, before the other gives him a visit of reception in the ship.

To these two Consuls there are given two large buildings, called by them Fondiques, situated near two gates of the city, which lead towards the haven and the seafhore, that they may the easier send their goods in and out. There are all day long a great many Moors with their Afles, that stand waiting for an opportunity to conduct Merchants and Seamen with their goods in and out, These two houses are large, and have abundance of vaults and chambers, so that there is room enough to lodge both Merchants and their goods.

With the French are also lodged, those from Genoa, Florence, St Luck, Germans, Dutchmen, &c. as also with the Venetians those of Candia, Corfu,' &c. that are under their master's jurisdiction. These Fondiques have no more than one large gate, where Janisaries keep watch: When their masters, the Consuls go out, they are accompanied with a multitude of Merchants and their servants, and they are in great authority with the Turks and Moors, even beyond the Bashaw himself : They always take along with them their Janifaries, which go before with great and long cudgels, and beat


the people out of the way, even the Turks themfelves.

The Merchants have daily great conversation with the Jews, for they know a great many languages, and the prizes of all merchandizes, how to buy and to sell them ; wherefore they always help to conclude bargains in merchandizes, pay the money and give bills of exchange, wherefore they have their brokerage. I have seen chiefly three sorts of their silver coins, viz. Aspers, Medin and Saiject, which are very good, and pass thro' all Turky. When great sums are paid, they do not tell the whole, but only part of it, and weigh it, and so take the rest proportionably by the same weight. Of gold coins they have only ducats which are made of fine gold, and are very limber : Besides these you hardly see any other coins but Venetian Ducats, French Teftons, Foachims Thalers, of which they have so many, that they often do not only pay with them great sums and their bills of exchange, but turn them also into their own coin. So that there is abundance of Jews throughout all Turky in any trading-town, but chiexy in Aleppo, and in this town of Tripoli, where they have built a very large habitation, and a delicate synagogue. These Jews have the revenues of customs of the Grand Signior in their hands, so that nothing can be brought in or out, but it must go thro' their hands, which is very troublesome to the Merchants. Those that buy any thing of them, must have a special care, that they be not cheated, for they are full of it

, insomuch as they confess of themselves, that no body can get any thing by them, except he will be a greater Harmani (that is cheat) than they, that dare to sell Wall-nuts for Nutmegs or Myrobolans.

Concerning the merchandizes: If one will see several sorts of goods they are to be found in theCarvatscharas or Champen, whereof I have made mention before, but chiefly in the Batzaren or houses where they buy and sell, or exchanges. These exchanges are wide and long, and partly arched, partly covered with timber, that you may walk and trade there without being wetted, they have shops on both sides, which are also kept by handicrafts and tradesmen, as Shoe-makers, Taylors, Sadlers, Silk-embroiderers, Turners, Copper-smiths,



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