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Bushire to Bombay, Masulipatam, and Bengal, whence they bring in exchange Guzerat Kincobs, chintz, long cloths, muslins, &c.* The King of Persia has lately endeavoured to put a stop to this large exportation of gold and silver, by offering a reward to whoever should weave cloth similar to the Madras long cloths; but the merchants cannot be supposed to interest themselves in an under- taking, which would convert a portion of their profits into another channel. From some cotton bushes near Bushire, they fabricate a kind of cloth nearly equal to the China nankeen. I took notice of some castor-oil shrubs, and found, upon enquiry, that although its medicinal qualities were known, the oil was only used for lamps.

As I brought bills of exchange upon two respectable merchants, and was recommended by the Bombay Government to the attention of the British Resident, I experienced every kind of civility and courtesy a stranger could require. Every one was eager to assist me, and, I easily perceived, were ready and impatient to take advantage of my ignorance. I was invited to an entertainment given by Mihdee Ulee Khan to the principal inhabitants of Bushire; and, as it is descriptive of their manners, I shall give some account of it. About eight o'clock we began to assemble, and as each person entered the room he was saluted with the usual Moosulman compliment. Every thing was ordered in the highest style of Eastern luxury; the Kuleean prepared with rose-water; sweet coffee in golden cups; in short, there was nothing wanting which could contribute to the shew or ornament of the entertainment. † About ten, the supper (the principal meal with the Persians) was

The following statement of the sums exported from Bushire, was given me by the English broker:-Masulipatam, six lacs and a half; Calcutta, one and a half; Bombay, one and a half; Muscat one, in addition to which half a lac of drugs, &c. is sent to India; and at least one lac may be supposed to be sent without paying any freight.

+ The Kuleean is constructed on the same principles as the Indian Hookah. The Persians smoke pure tobacco, and never for more than two minutes at a time. The Kulecani Nypeech is

smoked for a continuance.

brought in on trays, one of which was placed before every two persons; then two pilaus, one of fowl, and the other of mutton. In the trays there were about eight dishes, some consisting of curds and cheese, and others of sour and sweet ingredients mixed together. During the time of eating, I remarked that they frequently drank out of two basons, which I conceived to contain soup; but which proved to be a kind of sherbet, supposed to promote digestion: And, indeed, they have need of this drink, for they seldom appear satisfied until they have emptied their trays. The conversation, both before and after supper, was general; every one took his share in the discourse, and some enlivened it with the history of former kings, and remarks on the present government. This is by no means the case if the entertainment be given to a person of superior rank to the entertainer; rich cloths are spread before the door for him to walk upon, and which become the property of his servants; the master of the house seats himself at a great distance from him; if he speaks, the rest of the people speak also, if he is silent, a sullen silence is observed. A great man in Persia, instead of being received with welcome, is received with dread and apprehension, and his departure is anticipated with anxious expectation.

The Persians are firmly persuaded of the truth of judicial astrology, and seldom undertake any business without consulting their astrologers; the most lucrative profession in all Persia.. It is useless to attempt convincing them of the fallacy of their belief, for reason seldom conquers prejudice, and in Persia its sway is omnipotent: neither the arguments nor the eloquence of Cicero would have any effect. The King of Persia, I heard, was told by his astrologers, that the safety of his throne would be endangered, if there was not a new king for a certain time. He immediately invested his eldest son with the insignia of royalty, and sent him on an expedition towards Khorasan. By doing this, he propitiated.

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his malignant stars ; and when the time was passed over, he resumed his imperial splendour.

The mosque at Bushire is excessively mean; I have before remarked that little can be said in praise of any of its buildings; and I could not but smile at the observation of a sailor, who, on seeing the town at a distance, swore very bluntly that we were going on shore to a burying ground: at a distance it has this appearance. The water here is excessively brackish, operating on a stranger like a dose of salts, and even this is procured ten miles from the town. The inhabitants of Bushire, and the neighbouring villages, appear to be a quiet inoffensive race of people, but are intolerably stupid. It is surprising to observe the number of blind people, and persons with sore eyes, in the different parts of the Dushtistan. I attribute this chiefly to the excessive heat and dryness of the air, which, by drying up the moisture of the eye, produces a running, which is increased by the fine particles of sand which are blown into the eye. However this may be, I think I may say, without exaggeration, that at least one third of the inhabitants of the Dushtistan have something the matter with their

eyes.*

• The Dushtistan is the land below the hills, which form a barrier for the country of Fars.

CHAPTER III.

Method of travelling-Respect of the Persians for Major Malcolm, &c. &c.

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FOUND that it would be necessary for me to appear, either in the character of a gentleman, or a beggar; unfortunately I chose the former. As it may be of service to some future traveller, I shall give a short account of the means I followed to accomplish my journey. My attendants were ten in number; a Jilodar, or head groom, two Mihturs, or grooms, two Pesh Khidmuts, servants who prepare your Kuleean, and attend your person, a cook, and four Furash men, who pitch tents, and perform any thing you order. may remark on the difference between the servants of Persia and India; the former never hesitate to obey you, the latter will seldom perform any thing but their immediate duty. In India it is necessary to have two men to one horse, in Persia one man will take much better care of seven !

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The Pesh Khidmuts and Jilodar are mounted on horses, the rest of your servants on mules. As it is the custom for your Pesh Khidmuts to accompany you on all occasions, it is requisite for them to have good clothes, and a respectable appearance; indeed more depends on the appearance of your servants and equipage, than on your own character and conduct. Your Pesh Khidmuts, beside your Kuleean, should carry a Mutaru (or leather skin) of water, and another of wine, and this you should be cautious not to forget, as water is seldom to be procured on your march. Some of your servants can in general sing, or rather chaunt, many of the

Odes of Hafiz and Sadee; at any rate you should endeavour to get one who can, as it serves to beguile the tediousness of a long march by night.

wants.

It is expected (and essentially requisite, should you want assistance) that you should make some kind of present to the head person of the town or village you stop at. The most acceptable presents are shawls, muslins, Kincobs, pistols, watches, satins, velvets, chintz, knives, spying-glasses, &c. and your present should be in proportion to the rank of the receiver, or the extent of your You must be careful in not presenting any thing which is exclusively appropriated to the female dress, being the greatest affron't you can possibly offer. A number of persons will be making you presents of fruit, &c. in the expectation of receiving a handsome reward; and should they be disappointed, you may rely on being regarded in a very contemptible light. It is therefore necessary for you to have a few pieces of Qulum-kar (chintz), and coarse broad cloth, to give away to these needy beggars.

Since Major Malcolm's embassy to the Court of Persia, the people of every village have been led to expect so much from European munificence and generosity, that you cannot avoid exceeding the bounds of moderation; the English traveller, however much he may lament this evil, cannot but feel gratified at an impression which reflects so much honour and credit on the British nation. The names of Major Malcolm, and the gentlemen who accompanied him, are mentioned in the liveliest terms of Oriental panegyric; and I do not recollect stopping at a single place, where the inhabitants did not make many eager enquiries after the welfare of Major Malcolm and the gentlemen of his suite. It was out of my power to give them much information; and I suffered not a little in their estimation, when I told them I was unknown to the whole party.

It cannot be expected that I should be informed of the motives