meats, which were greedily devoured by the mob who attended the ceremony."

The Arabs, who are Soones, cannot refrain from shewing their displeasure at this absurd custom, taxing the Sheeas with worshiping Ali instead of venerating the prophet. This is almost true of the poor people, with them Ali is every thing, they conceive that his name cannot be invoked in vain. I was told by a Persian that he once saw a lion, but that he cried out the name of Ali, and the lion ran away! Their oaths are in the name of Ali; and, instead of looking for assistance from God, Ulee mudud, Assistance O! Ali is the usual prayer. But the higher order of Persians make a manifest difference between Ali, the Wuzeer, and son-in-law of the prophet, and Moohummud, the prophet of God. They maintain that he was the only lawful successor of the prophet; but I never heard them assert, and I have conversed with them repeatedly upon this subject, that Ali was equal to the divine lawgiver. The absurd and impious speeches of an ignorant peasant, are not to determine the religious opinions of a populous nation. During the wars between Turkey and Persia, it is probable that the inveteracy of the Soonees and Sheeas might have either degraded or exalted the character of Ali. It was the policy of the Persian. government, at that period, to cherish this prejudice; and so effectually had this been accomplished, that the tyrant, Nadir Shah, found it utterly impracticable to persuade the Persians to admit the legal succession of the three first Califs.

The same ceremony is said to be observed in many parts of India. See the Hedaya Preliminary Discourse, page 10.

The porters sing a verse like this:

اگر بتواني بگو ياعلي اگر خسته جاني بگو یاعلی

CHAPTER X.

Of the Buildings, Baths.

THE HE houses inhabited by persons of rank in Persia are built with some degree of taste and convenience. The entrance to them is very bad; instead of finding a broad and handsome gateway, you probably have to creep through a small door not five feet high. Their houses are surrounded by a high wall, so that their view is terminated by the extent of their ground, which is not, however, to be regretted in a city. On passing the door, through a narrow passage, you enter a spacious court-yard, at the top of which, and opposite the Deewan Khanu, is a jet d'eau ; and in the middle, and sometimes on both sides, are Dureeachus, canals which play like fountains.

The Deewan Khanu is a very large room, the floor is covered with a rich carpet, and handsome Numuds (felts), and the sashwindows, which take up one entire side of the room, are glazed with very small pieces of stained glass, and which form representations of the sun and stars.

If the Deewan Khanu is large, there are usually two fire places, ornamented with paintings or plate glass. On each side of this room there is a small one, but which does not appear to be ever used. It is impossible to form any notion of the extent of their buildings, as their private and sleeping apartments are concealed from the sight of man. The stair-cases in Persia are broad and handsome, and by no means like those in India, where you are obliged to grope your way up a dark and narrow flight of steps to

the most magnificent apartments. Their houses are terraced, for the purpose of sleeping on in the warm weather; a practice invariably observed by the Persians during the summer months. This is thought to be very prejudicial to health: I followed their example, and, although the dews (particularly at Bushire) are very heavy, I did not suffer in the least from them.

The houses in Sheeraz are built of brick; but, as the mortar they use is exceedingly bad, they are obliged to cover the face of the building with plaister of mud, chopped straw, and cow dung. The appearance which this gives, often makes you suspect that the building is only of mud.

The baths in Persia are very magnificent, and you are admitted to the convenience of them for a trifling sum.* They are in common use by every description of persons, and often afford a large fund of merriment to the unmarried persons who frequent them. The baths are open to the women as well as the men; five days are allotted to the latter, and only two to the former.

The first room you enter is the place where you undress, smoke, talk, and hear the news of the day. The next room is the bath, the floor of which is marble stone, &c. and which is heated by means of the flues, which communicate with the fire that boils the water. The operation of bathing takes up nearly an hour, and dyeing the beard, the hands, and feet as long a time. All the Persians dye their beards black, although it is naturally of that colour, to the great indignation and contempt of the Turks. The Persians, from a principle of cleanliness, either shave or burn away all the hair on their bodies. The composition they use for this purpose, is a certain proportion of quick lime and orpiment (or Zarnich†) mixed together. It is a very dangerous mixture, for if you do not wash it away as the hair begins to fall, you are often

The real orpiment, as well as Zurnich, is called by the Persians Zurnekh.

burned in a most dreadful manner. The fragrant earth of roses (gile gool) is commonly used in Persian baths. As a number of persons are in the bath at one time, you pass part of your time in talking and smoking, and sometimes sleeping. The Persians delight in using the bath, and have a saying, that "No man should visit a foreign country, where there is not a magistrate, a physician, and a bath."

CHAPTER XI.

Artisans-Painters-Physicians.

THE artisans in Persia, as in all other countries, conduct themselves according to their reputation. Sheeraz has no extensive manufactory; and, excepting a few swords, and perhaps a little wine, they export nothing to the northern parts of Persia.

Many of the artisans in Sheeraz are very ingenious, particularly in all kinds of enamel work, which greatly excels, I think, that in Europe.* It is really surprising to see the lustre, and at the same time the mellowness of their colours, and the wonderful accuracy of the smallest figures. The Kuleeans are often highly enamelled, which makes them very expensive, a handsome one costing nearly fifty guineas. They work likewise very well in gold and silver, and in making ornaments for bridles, saddles, &c.

The swords which they make in Sheeraz are manufactured from steel, which they purchase in cakes at Hydrabad, and which, I learn, is brought out of the Rajah of Berar's country, and also from Amedabad. One of these cakes is to be purchased for five shillings, at Bushire for about a guinea. They each make one sword, and it rests entirely on chance how it may turn out. If they are full of Jouhur (damask) they are very valuable; but it is said that much depends on the skill of the artist.

Writing, in Persia, is an art, and one of the most laborious. They write in various hands, each of which possesses some peculiar

They can enamel only on gold..