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women, except as wraps for the Theatres ; || therefore by noticing such as appear most wor-
the satiated eye turus overpowered by their | thy of delineation.
universal glare, to rest on more chaste and The robe à-la-Dido, formed of Tyrian bright
more refreshing sbades., Mantles and pelisses | velvet, or sarsnet, ranks bigh in fashionable
are now considered niore elegant when trim- 1 splendour. It is trimmed with gold lace, and a
med with gold or silver lace, or binding; or Roman girdle of gold tissue, confined in front
with black velvet, bound, or laid fat, and with a rich enibossed clasp, ornaments the
which is sometimes finished at its terminations | bottom of the waist. The bair is secured with
with a narrow gold edging, or flat braid. Some a caul, or gold net behind, and ornamented
are decorated with borders of coloured chenille, with a bandeau or diadem in front. The
but these can only consistently belong to the Carthage cymar, or fancy scarf, formed of
carriage costume.

Paris net, with gold embossed border and Bonnets continue to be formed of the same stars, shades the shoulders, which this splenmaterials as the coat or mautle, and trimmed did costume wouldotherwise too much expose; to correspond. The Patriotic belmet, and the but we remark that sometimes in full dress College bonnet, each worn with short wbite | the robes are made to sit bigh in the neck, lace veils, are amidst the most povel and at. l like morning habits, but more ornamented tractive articles of this kiud. The purple and | about the throat and bosom: we cannot, boxthe green beaver hat, somewhat of the Spanish ever, in any way subscribe to a fashion which form, turned up with a loop and acoru tassel | levels`a just distinction. The throat and of gold, falling towards the left eye-brow, and bosoin, if well formed, should be exhibited ia ornamented with a small Persian plume of the full dress, as far as may be permitted witbout same colour, is making its appearance, and as infringing on those rules of delicacy which a carriage decoration, possesses nuch becom- propriety proscribes, and which can never in ing attraction. The fair pedestrian, however, I any instance be departed from without danger discovers a due discrimination of taste and and disadvantage. The fair and uncovered judgment, when she appears in this article throat allows a place for the necklace, which divested of the feather and gold ornament. almost exclusively belongs to this species of The former is far more genteel and consistent costume, and which can never appear to adformed of silk, the colour of the hat; and for vantage wben worn over the robe. Muslin or the latter, we cannot so far deviate from our net round dresses, are worn over coloured expressed ideas of that proper distinction we satin or sarsnet, with a deep biuding over the have ever recommended as to allow them a same rouud the bottom; or trimmed with a place in the walking or morning dress. Fea- l deep vandyke lace : we, however, never rethers, however constructed or disposed, and collect the period when coloured dressie gold, however introduced or applied, may be were so universally adopted. Those of the come fashionable on these occas ons; hut can intermediate style are made round with demicorrectly only belong to full dress. The morn. trains, and a simple cuff of deep antique lace; ing babit will best recommend itself to females

tbe same falling flat round the bosom, with a of a just taste, by a neat, unstudied, and un

plain drawn tucker above. There is much obtrusive elegance. The construction of gowns appropriate neatvess in these well-contrasted and robes are at this time exceedingly various habits. Trinkets at this season exbibit much and attractive. In the morning dress, whether taste and splendor. Diamonds, and every species the gown is formed as a wrap, Spanish jacket,

of gem, set transparent, and judiciously adapt. or round frock, it is invariably worn high in ed to the dresses with which they are worn, the neck; either with the arched collar sem

adorn our fair fashionables in full dress. blable with that given in No. 1, of our Prints

Bracelets are now worn broad, the size of the of Fashion, or with a vandyke ruff, or collar wrist, and correspouding with the armlet. è la-spencer. The avtique cuff is attached to

This latter ornament is not, however, very every species of loug sleeve. In full dress, general. Clasps of the most brilliant cut however, the loose Turkish sleeve, falling in a steel succeed those of gold or silver, and in point at the elbow, where it is sometimes | absence of the diamond and other valuable finished with a correspondent tassel, is in the gems, we know of none to exceed it in splendour. first style of povei elegance. Were we to at. Combs of steel also rank amidst other fashiontempt a description of the several attractive able ornaments for the hair. Shoes are now garments displayed by our fair fashionables at

very much trimmed, and are more showy tbau this season, we should find it an Herculean

we have observed them for some years. HalfJabour, so numerous are the claims to a taste

boots of cloth, the colour of the pelisse of ful distinction. We shall content ourselves mantle, are also much in request. The ap

propriation of gloves will speak for themselves in Grosvenor-square, is one of the most spacito every female of a correct taste; otherwise ons and sumptuous mansions in towo. #e refer them to our former remarks on this is just furnished in the highest style of the head of our subject. The most genteel colours present mode. The drawing room comprises are Saragossa brown, various shades of green, a most attractive assemblage of the Greek and amber, and pale geranium; the most general,

Chinese. The cating room is the pet conparple and scarlet.

venient, novel, and clegant design I have ever witnessed, and serves at once as an emblem of our advancement in luxury and genins, as

well as our just sense of what constitutes the LETTER ON DRESS,

comforts of affluence. EXPLANATORY AND DESCRIPTIVE. Bat I must not pass over the unique cle

Be convinced, my dear Frederica, by this gance of the sleeping rooms; to each of my haste in fulfilling the promise I give you

which is attached a boicour, fitted up in the at parting, that however beguiled by the fas most tasteful and appropriate style. A private cinating pleasures of this gay metropolis, they door, ingeniously contrivedl, leads to the sleepwill never be suffered to int; ude on whose ing rooms, while a public one leads to the emotions sacred to friendship and to you. grand stair-case. The drapery, furniture of I shall during my sojourn here, give you a

unine, is a mixture of pea-green and pale rosefall and particular account of my pursuits || colour, represcuting the damask patterns. and my pleasures-my rovings and my wan

The poles and Grecian longes are bronze, derings, should I be so affected. And if any twined with raised oak-leaves and berries in attack of the archi God should assail this 1 gold, and the cabinets and bookcases are rosehitherto stubborn heart, you shall have a wood, inlaid with ivory and ebony after the faithful detail of the combat-whether I com

Chinese taste. The windows are alled witli mence open hostilities, or surrender to terms

native and exotic flowers and shrubs. The of capitulation. I bave already found that ground of the carpet is shaded green, with red love in the country and love in the city is and white roses scattered over, in true Arcaquite a different sort of thing. No sighing | dian taste. and whiving here. Our Cupids abound in This elegant retreat I call my Sanctuary ; native roguery, and approach us clad in for it is here that I fly to regulate my mind smiles. Here the rosy God rejects constraint

when shaken by the whirlwinds of pleasure; aod dies coutroul, and shoots his arrows free it is here that in the turning over the pages of as-air. You, who are well acquainted with

some well-inspired author, I compose my dis. my disposition, will therefore readily perceive tracted senses, and learn lessons of reason and that I am in more danger from a towu than a rationality. But to quit my sober strain, let country Cupid. In the latter there is more me proceed to tell you that we have already sentiment and more deception ; in the former had one most brilliant concert and ball since more fire and more fairness, and that .:grees my arrival. The first public and many private best with my spirit and my candour. But singers lent their voices on the occasion. The truce to a subject in which I have only dancing was exquisite, but I thought it fatheoretical knowledge.

voured rather more of public science than Let me now proceed to give you some pričate elegance. The dresses of the ladies account of this stylish family, with whom I were of unrivalled attraction. have the prospect of passing a most agreeable splendid robes of velvet and clothi, in green,

It consists, tirst, of a bost and purple, and orange, trimmed with gold and hostess ; tbe former a most accommodating silver, with ricli antique stomachers, and good humoured sort of a husband enough, military fronts, in gold mosaic patterns, had a aged fifty; the latter, an elegant stylish wo large share of my attention. Sometimes these man, about forty; two daughters, very pretty,

dresses were relieved by trimmings of antique endowed with every fashionable acomplish- || lace and beading, while the same was intio. ment, aged from seventeen to twenty; a gay

duced in various fanciful directions in the and dashing brother, three years older, heir bosom and sleeves. But as this leiter will be to the fortune and honours of the family; accompanied with a long list of general inforand an elegant and interesting man, about mation, I shall accommodate you with a few thirly, who is like myself, on a visit of particular delineations, and then close my courtesy, but who has stronger claims to

letter. hospitality, from being a cousin of the lady We are all going on Saturday next to a grand the mansion. The house, which is situated | ball given by the Countess of L

-; and I

Some very

season.

know not how better to fulfil my intentiou | were never more in vogue than at this period : than by giving you a description of our severalf, yet I have the courage to depart from the dresses which are chosen for the vccasion. general order of the day, on the ensuing occa

The lady of our mansion has ordered a most sion, and intend appearing in a French frock superb robe of the finest orange coloured of white figured net; but with a view of accloth. It has a broad black velvet border, laid commodating myself a little to the general dat round the bottom, above which is seen a standard, I shall wear it over an under dress of gold lace. The same is continued up the pink satin; not a particle of gold or silver will front, with the gold lace terminating its edges, be allowed to glitter on my little person. A and continued, in the form of a nun's bib, li girdle of pink satin, with a Roman clasp of across the bosom and shoulders, and it is finely cut steel, will simply confine my waist; finished in poivted capes bebind. The sleeves, a simple tucker of French net will shade my which are long and wide, are formed of black || bosoin; a single row of pearl will constitute and gold tissue; the shoes are of black satin, my necklace and bracelets; a simple Persian embroidered with gold at the tocs. Her hair | pin of the same, confine my hair. My slippers (which is still very fine) is ornamented with a will be white satin, with pearl buttons; and Spartan diadem, composed of the finest bril thus you will see I am determined not to obliants; her necklace, bracelets, and earrings scure the little attraction which my petit per: are also of diamonds. The commanding son may or may not boast, with a redundancy height and extreme elegance of this lady's of ornaments; and it would be more to tbeir figure, suits well with the splendid attraction | advantage, I believe, if every little woman of this babiliment. Her two daughters will would be guided by me in this single particular. wear dresses similar with each other; and are, | I have scribbled so much of worldly tries, round robes of pale-blue or pea green, twill that I have little room for nore intellectual sarsnet, short Turkish 'sleeves, with big h | matter. fronts; the whole trinimed with black velvet I inclose for your amusement, Tales of the bindings, and silver or gold lace. Their Dair Manor;" and will send you Sir Robert Ker is to be disposed a-la-Greque, confined with a Porter's book the instant it makes a public comb of the finest pearl; necklace and ear entrée. It is true, as you have heard, bis in. rings of the same. Their shoes are wbite satin, genious sisters are engaged in some novel prolaced with silver cord at the toes, and the ductions depend on them the moment they quarters trimmed with correspoodent friuge. | issue from the press. I wonder not at what They will each wear a Carthage cymar of cob you say on this subject. Who can but look web net, bordered and spotted with silver. | forward with pleasurable expectation to any The above-mentioned style of trimming, com forthcoming work from the authors of " Thad. posed of biack velvet and gold lace, is all the deus of Warsaw,” and “ The Hungarian Brom rage amidst the hurt ton, and coloured dresses thers." - Farewel.

London: Printed by and for J. BELL, Southampton-street, Strand.

OR,

Bell's

COURT AND FASHIONABLE

MAGAZINE

FOR MARCH, 1809.

EMBELLISHMENTS.

1. An Elegant PORTRAIT of the Right Hon. LADY CHARLOTTE DUNCOMBE. 2. Two WHOLE-LENGTH FIGURES in the FASHIONs of the SEASON, COLOURED. 3. An ORIGINAL SONG, set to Music for the Harp and Piano-forte; composed excla

sively for this Work, by Mr. M. P. King. 4. Two elegant and new PATTERNS for NEEDLE-WORK.

BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES OF ILLUS BEAUTIES OF THE BRITISH POETS. TRIOUS LADIES.

BEAUTIES OF DR. GOLDSMITH. Lady Charlotte Duncombe

71

The Traveller; or, a prospect of Society 87
The Deserted Village

91 ORIGINAL COMMUNICATIONS. Edwin and Angelina .

96 Hyreuæa in search of a husband... ......... 72 || An Elegy on a mad Dog

97 Second-sight

77 | Retaliation Anecdotes of dress, and the capriees of Fashion; from Malcolm's “ Anecdotes

BEAUTIES OF J. PHILLIPS. of the manners and customs of London during the eighteenth century" .... 81

The Splendid Shilling

101 Sports and pastimes used in times of old

in London ..... Extracts from Sir John Carr's “ Tour

LA BELLE ASSEMBLEE, through Scotland in 1807".

86 Hulkem; a tale .......

91

Explanation of the Prints of Fashion...... 97
General Observations on the most select
Fashions for the Season

ib.
PUBLIC AMUSEMENTS.
Letter on Dress ......

99 Independence; or, The Trustee....... 95 Supplemeutary Advertisements for the On the construction of Theatres.... 96 Month,

85

Taondon: Printed by and for J. BELL, Proprietor of the WBEKLY MESSENGER, Southampton-Street,

Strand, April 1, 1809.

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WE submit to our Subacribers in our present Number a Specimen of the improved manner in which we shall give our Plates of Fashion. In our subsequent Numbers we shall espect to improre further upon this specimen.

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