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an ordinary man. But she heeded them not, and flict with levelled lances; and Diana with buskined denarius which once rattled in the money bags of the thought, “We should obey our father, come what leg and curtailed tunic, directs her arrow with un- nummularius ; it bears the word Judæa, and on it is may. Meanwhile, Green Robe journeyed through erring certainty, to the heart of the fated stag. Nor pourtrayed the figure of that unhappy province the wide world, purchasing, wherever he came, the are the other deities neglected: Ephesus glories in weeping at the foot of a trophy. On the plains most beautiful presents for his betrothed; doing good the templeof her Diana, who is represented with num- of France, where the bravest of Cæsar's legions earned to all, ill to none, and giving to the poor whatsoever berless breasts ; and Samos boasts her Juno. The truly their laurels, the same minute records are oftimes they asked of him. And Providence rewarded him; noble and godlike head of Jupiter must be as familiar discovered ; and in England the descendant of the for when the three years were past, he was still alive to every numismatic student, as his own image in a hardy tribes who opposed the hosts of the dictator, and hearty. So he went to the circle of trees upon mirror; in fact, that extraordinary compilation of frequently turns up the coins of the masters of the the lofty mountain, and he heard the loud noise, and fables, the Mythology, can in no manner be studied world : the words JUDÆA CAPTA have been carried the Tempter came, angered and vexed at seeing him, better than in the coins of the Greeks and Romans. where even our gazettes have not travelled. What a and threw him back his old robe, and demanded the Of the money of the latter, we have an infinite num- lesson to those who have the direction of a national green one. This the youth handed to him quite joy- ber of specimens, containing portraits of nearly all coinage! Gibbon justly observes, that "if all our hisfully, and so became free again, and a rich man for the Emperors, many of the Empresses, and Cæsars, torians were lost to us, medals and inscriptions would ever. So he went home, dressed and cleaned him- and several of those of the Consuls, not forgetting alone record the travels of Hadrian." To be assured self, and set forth to see his betrothed.

the heads of the early kings, Ancus and Numa; but of the truth of this observation, let the reader turn to When he came to the door, her father met him, the latter are found on coins of a period posterior to page 241, vol. I. of the work under notice. and he announced himself as the bridegroom; but their reigns, and were struck by families who boasted On the exquisite brass medallions of Antoninus Pius the old man did not know him again, and would not their descent from those princes.

and of Commodus, we have many subjects of great believe him. Then he went to his future bride, but Having reached thus far we shall take occasion to beauty from the mythology of the ancients. neither she believed him. Then he asked her if she mention a work which has been recently published We shall conclude our notice for the present by an had still got half of his ring. She said ‘Yes ;' and and has received the approbation of our literary jour- extract from vol. 2, p. 137, relative to the coins of fetched it : and when he produced the other half, nals: it is entitled " A Descriptive Catalogue of Carausius, the admiral of the Roman fleet, in the and she saw how they matched, she was assured that Roman Coins from the earliest period of the Roman reign of Diocletian and Maximian. This man having he could be no other than the bridegroom. And when Coinage to the extinction of the Empire under Constan- betrayed his trust, went over with the whole fleet to she saw what a goodly man he was, she became tinus Paleologus, by J. Z. Akerman, F. S. A." This Britain, where he established himself as emperor. deeply enamoured of him, and straightways they were Catalogue which is comprised in two volumes octavo, The emperors being unable to cope with him, agreed, married. But the two sisters were so grieved that contains a description of upwards of ten thousand as we are told to allow him the sovereignty of the they had rejected such good fortune, that on the day coins, and is illustrated by numerous fac-simile en- Island, but he was assassinated not long after by his of the wedding, the one hanged, and the other gravings from the originals in the British Museum, friend Allectus. During his stay in this Island he drowned herself; and at night, a loud knocking was and other public and private collections in this coun- struck a number of coins, the most remarkable of heard at the house, and when the bridegroom arose, try and on the continent. It commences with the which are those with the legend PAX AUGGG. the and opened the door, he saw the Tempter in his As, a large piece of brass first issued in the time of three g's denoting the three augusti. The same is green robe, who said, 'At all events, I have now got the Roman kings.” The account which Pliny gives found on a few coins of Diocletian and Maximian, two souls instead of your one.'

of this money is not satisfactory, for he speaks of a on which latter Mr. Ackerman offers the following
sudden and considerable reduction in its weight, while remarks.
pieces exist which show that the declension was gra- “The coins of Maximianus and Diocletianus, with

dual. Our information with respect to this early these types, deserve especial notice. We learn from MEDALS A KIND OF BOOKS. money is very limited, and we shall be glad to see an history that these emperors recognized the title which (For the London Journal.)

elaborate treatise on the subject. Next follow the coins Carausius had assumed; but we know at the same

denominated Consular: of these we have many hundreds time that they were not enabled to depose and punish We have, from our youth upwards, been addicted to and we have little doubt that the varieties enume- the usurper. Mionnet, either doubting the authenthe study of ancient medals. Ere the tail of our rated by Mr. Akerman are susceptible of considerable ticity of coins of these princes with AuGGG., or pas. jacket exceeded a span in length, we were ever on the augmentation ; but here are enough for a moderate sing them over through inadvertence, does not notice alert when we heard of the discovery of ancient trea- collector, all the rare and interesting coins being the types here described, although they are of consure, and have often followed the plough, not as rural accurately described, and in many instances illustrated siderable rarity. But we have no proof that they labourers, nor like the rooks to pick up the vermin by plates. One or two of the most remarkable coins were struck by authority of Diocletianus and Maximso unceremoniously disturbed, but in the hope of of this series we shall take occasion to introduce to ianus; while on the other hand, there appear some seeing the plough-share bring to light some relic of our readers, more especially as there are no doubt grounds for believing that they were minted by the the olden time. many who consider the study of medals as unprofit- usurper himself.

Many coins of Carausius bear We confess our relationship to the Dry-as-dustable and unamusing. A coin of the family Æmilia AUGGG.: and this is not surprising, for he would natfamily; and let those, who will, sneer at our endeavours gives us a representation of the crowning of the urally publish the recognition of his titles by Diocleto eke out information from mould and dust and cob- youthful Egyptian king Ptolemy Epiphanes by the

tianus and his colleague: but those of the emperors, webs ; we have often derived both pleasure and profit Roman Consul, Marcus Lepidus who is styled “tutor though very common with AUGGG., are of rare occurfrom our examinations. Our business is now with a regis,” (the king's guardian). Another coin of the rence with AUGGG. Now it is somewhat singular, description of antiquities second only to the statuary same family bears the figure of an equestrian carrying that the two coins in the British Museum with PAX of the ancients, those images, before which as a trophy, and has a legend which tells us that Marcus AUGGG. are in fabric, exceedingly like the rude coins Addison remarks, the politest nations of modern Lepidus at the age of fifteen had slain an enemy and of Carausius ; so much so, that they might, if it were times have bowed the knee. Need we add, that we saved the life of a citizen. Another coin of the not for the legends, by a careless observer be supmean the coins of the Greeks and Romans, those family, commemorates the subjection of Aretas posed to belong to that personage. Eakhel (see Doct. minute relics upon which we certainly have the cor- king of Arabia, by Emilius Scaurus. Others of the Num. Vet.) after quoting a coin with VIRTUS AUGGG., rect representation of many statues by the first mas- consular series bear numerous interesting records ; observes that it bears testimony to the truth of the ters of antiquity. The noble figure of Neptune, on a on a denarius of the family Didia, we have the repre- account of the recognition of Carausius by Diocletianus large brass coin of Hadrianus, resting his foot on the sentation of a military punishment: on those of and Maximianus; but he does not notice that on the prow of a vessel, is evidently copied from a statue of Tituria, the rape of the Sabines and the guilty Tarpeia Continent these coins are of great rarity, and even in the time, as are also the figures of Jupiter Stator, the receiving the just reward of her treachery; while on a England are of unfrequent occurrence; a circumstance deity to whom Cicero appeals in his tremendous ora- coin of Mamilia, Ulysses is recognized by his faithful certainly in favour of the supposition that they were tions against Catiline. But first a few words on the dog, a representation which, as a contemporary ob- minted by Carausius.” coins, of the Greeks. Many obscure states struck

serves, proves that the study of Homer was popular coins and these are now almost their only remaining at Rome. From the Consular, or family series, we records. “When we compare," says Payne Knight, pass to that of the Emperors, the portaits of which

ITALY. " the smallness and insignificance of many of these (to say nothing of the reverses), might furnish a states, scarcely known to the historian or geographer, day's amusement, and a subject for a week's study. (From the Second Part (just published) of Mr. D’Israelis with the exquisite beauty, elegance, and costly re- The bald head, and crane-neck of the first Cæsar

Junior's, Revolutionary Epick.) finement displayed in their money, the common must be familiar to every one, while that of his suc

Set the red sun, the silver moon upsprang, drudge of retail traffic in the lowest stages of society, cessor is indicative of the subtle policy which enabled And morn again its rosy radiance shed we must admit that there is scarcely any thing more. him to triumph over his rivals, and secure to himself Upon the purple mountains ; o'er the plain wonderful in the history of man." the triumph of the world.

The sunbeam steals, and o'er the gloomy woods, Of some Greek cities we have such an abundance We have much to say on the portraits of the

And into light the dusky rivers glide. of ancient coins that they are often sold at public Cæsars, but must 'reserve our observations for ano. Then rose the song of birds from sunny trees, sales for little more than their intrinsic value. The ther opportunity, contenting ourselves with a word Their leaves all quivering in the gentle air, gold pieces of Carthage exist in great numbers, and on the bust of Nero, as represented on his medals. The primal breathing of tlie waking world ; although mostly of elegant fabric, bring but a trifle How characteristic are the features of the despot!

Fair is the dawn, right fair, and full of hope, beyond the price of the metal of which they are com- his short neck, sensual chin, and scowling brow, an- Though crimson eve is memory's gorgeous dower; · posed. The coins of Sicily are common to excess, swer to the description of the historian, and convince Fair is the dawn, and poets love its breath: and of the most exquisite fabric; and the large silver us that we have on these relics most faithful por

But can its sunbeam on a fairer scene medallions of Syracuse still remain in some numbers traits of the tyrants or philosophers, in whose reign Than thine, Italia, rest, when on the hill to delight the artist and the antiquary.* To enu- they were issued.

The hooded convent crowns, it brightly falls, merate the various emblems on the coins of the of the rererses of the imperial coins we could say Flanked by a single tree, the sea-born pine ; Greeks would occupy many volumes; plants, animals, much; but must limit our notices to a few which we Or sparkling village with its tall thin tower weapons, armour, utensils, are given with surprising take from Mr. Ackerman's work. At page 146,

Mid orchards bowered, and fields of Indian grain, fidelity and spirit. Sicily displays her ear of barley vol. I. we find a coin described which records the

With vines enclosed and ploughed by milk-white steers, and her fish ; Carthage her palm-tree and horse; only virtuous act of the monster Tiberius-his muni

Calls into lucid life? Corinth the Pegasus; Chios the Sphynx, and Athens ficence to the cities of Asia which had suffered se. her favourite badge, the bird of Minerva. In looking verely in the tremendous earthquake described so

TO CORRESPONDENTS. over a well arranged cabinet, we see the compositions eloquently by 'Tacitus. Galba (page 172, vol. I.) reof the first artists of antiquity: Hercules combats gisters (or rather the Senate registers for him) the H. B. and the communication of our fair friend the lion and strangles Antæus; Bellerophon gives circumstances which led to his succession, and Ves- F. L. N. shall appear the first opportunity. battle to the Chimera; the Dioscuri rush to the con- pasian and Titus chronicle with a sententiousness INDICATOR of Scarborough is informed, that the

peculiar to the latin language the destruction of Jeru- articles he speaks of were suspended on account of * One of the most interesting coins of the Greeks is perhaps salem; the simple words “JUDEA CAPTA” (Judæ the difficulty of finding matter sufficiently “piquant". that of Catania When an eruption of Mount Eina destroyed captive) tell the sad history of that memorable siege.

But we are trying if we cannot revive that town, two young men bore off on their shoulders their aged parents to a place of safety: the act obtained for them

The scroll of the annalist has mouldered to dust, and them in some other shape. divine honours in Sicily; and coins were struck with a re- time has erased many high sounding inscriptions; but We shall be glad to see a specimen of SAMUEL presentation of the brothers bearing their sacred burthens. the money of the Romans still exists to publish the fame SQUARE-ACRES' dreaming. His most finished poetical Cnæius l'ompey, when he vainly endeavoured to avenge his father, strnck a coin with the head of his parent one side, and

which that mighty empire had acquired. In the performance was the one he put into the hand of the the type of the Catanian brothers on the other.

vineyards of Italy, the peasant's spade turns up a little sleeping beggar.

every week.

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Published under the Superintendence of the Society for the THE PENNY CYCLOPÆDIA. THE BOOK OF MATRIMONY is now ready

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WE:)NESDAY, JULY 23, 1831.

No. 17.





ever, it was the English who were rigged so rum.” unless we are haif-foreigners, or unless our own And then their walk! Oh quondam Indicator!

nation is altogether of an inferior grade (and then quondam Tatler! quondam and present lover of all As Mr. Planché's curious and entertaining book

that is good and graceful! could you not “indicate" perhaps our prejudices and irritatior would render it

to our English ladies the way to walk? In what equally so) to get rid of some one point of national on British Costume, and the following letter from a absurd book was it that I read the other day that preference in forming judgments of this kind. Our correspondent on the dress and gait of British ladies, French women walked ill, because from the want of

friend the old Crony, we see, for all his connoistrottoirs in France, they get a habit of “ happened to come into our hands at the same time,

“picking" and led us to devote our principal article this week The aristocratic noodle! whose female relations piquancy of perfection in the French dress and walk,

with one foot which gave a jerking air to the gait. seurship and crony-ism, his regard for a certain to such matters, we may as well introduce the letter shuffle about on smooth pavements till they forget and his wish that his fair countrywomen would “take in this place. The writer is very unmerciful on the how to walk at all! I would not have them cross

teps" after their fashion, cannot get rid of the preribbons, plumes, and other enormities of the present

my grass-plat for the world. They would decapitate
the very dasies. How infinitely superior is the

ference in which he was brought up for the beauty mode of dress, and having torn these to pieces, pro- French woman's brisk springy step (albeit caused by of the English countenance. We have a similar feelceeds to rend away veils and gowns, and fall plumb a most plebeian and un-English want of cause-ways), ing in favour even of a certain subjected manner, a down upon the pretty feet of the wearers, and their

to the languid sauntering gait of most English dames! bending gentleness, (how shall we term it?) in the

Nature teaches the one-the drill-sergeant can do mode of walking : but when our fair readers see what nothing with the other. I wonder how they walked bearing of the sweetest of our countrywomen, not he says of their faces, and call to mind how Momus

in the days of Charles II. Surely Nell Gwynne and exactly connected with decision of step nor perhaps found fault with the steps of Venus herself, we trust my Lady Castlemaine walked well—and if they did, with variety of harmony: for all pleasures run into they will forgive his fury for the sake of his love, they walked differently from what they do now.

one another, if they are of a right sort, and the ground and consider whether so fond an indignation does Journalist, who believes in the improveability of all

I hope that some good creature like the London

of them true. Look at the paintings of the French, not contain something worth their reflection.

things, will take up this subject. A word from him and you will find, in like manner, that their ideal of a

would set English ladies upon trying, at least, to face, let them try to universalize it as they can, is a To the Editor of the London Journal. improve both in dressing and walking. There are

French one; and so it is with the Spanish and Italian models enough-look at the French, the Spanish, SIR, It is Mrs. Gore, I think, in one of her late novels, dressing well than we, and yet they beat us hollow. the Italians. They have not better opportunities for paintings, and with the Greek statues. The merry

African girls shriek with horror when they first look who says, that ninety-nine English woinen out of a

Why can't we have a basquina or mantilla, as well as hundred, dress inñnitely worse than as many French ;

upon a white traveller. Their notion of a beautiful any one else? Let us endeavour. but that the hundredth dresses with a neatness, cie.

Above all, let no one suppose that the writer of complexion is a skin shining like Warren’s blacking. gance, and propriety, which is not to be parallelled on

these desultory remarks is in the least deficient in It is proper to understand, in any question, great the other side of the channel. On my relating this love and duty to his fair countrywomen.

If he or small, the premises from which we set out, the to a fair relation of mine, she replied, “Very true,

offends any of them, they must imagine that it has only I never saw that hundredth."-Nor has any one

point which is required. In the dress and walk of been caused by excess of zeal for their interests. else. Without exception, the English women wear

Bless their bonnie faces ! if we could screw English females, as in all other matters in which they are the prettiest faces and the ugliest dresses of any in the known world.

heads on French figures, what women there would concerned, the point of perfection, we conceive, is A Hottentot hangs her sheep, be surely!

that which shall give us the best possible idea of perskin caross on her shoulders with more effect, and it is from what I see every day of my life that I come

July 7th, 1834.

AN OLD CRONY. fect womanhood. We are not to consider the dress by to this conclusion.

To enter properly into this subject, however trifling itself, nor the walk by itself, but as the dress and the I was the other day at a large shop at the west end it may appear (as indeed is the case with almost every walk of the best and pleasantest woman, and how of the town, where, if any where, we may expect to meet with favourable specimens of our country. subject so called) would be to open a wide field of far therefore it does her justice. This produces the con

Not a bit of it. There were a couple of investigation into morals, laws, climates, &c. Perhaps sideration of what we look upon as a perfect female ; French ladies there dressed smartly and tidily, one climate alone, by reason of the variety of habits it people will vary in their opinions on this head; and in blue and the other in rose-coloured silk, with snug generates in consequence of its various heats, colds, hence even so easy a looking question as the one little scutty bonnets guiltless of tawdry ribbons or

and other influences, will ever present an entire simi- before us, becomes invested into difficulties. The dingy plumes; and great was their astonishment at beholding the nondescript figures which ever and larity of manners, whatever may be the approximation opinion will depend greatly on the temperament as anon passed by. First came gliding out of her car- of opinion; but taking for granted, as is not unrea- well as the understanding of the judge. riage with a languishing air, a young Miss all ringlets sonable, that the progress of knowledge and inter- respondent for instance, is evidently a lively fellow, down to the knees-feathers drooping on one side of her bonnet, flowers on the other, and an immense

course will not be without its effect in bringing the old or young; and given a good deal rather to the Brussels veil (or some such trash) hanging behind; customs of civilized countries nearer to one another, material than to the spiritual; and hence his notion her gown pinned to her back like rags on a Guy and that each will be for availing itself of what is best of perfection tends towards a union of the trim and Fawkes; a large warming-pan of a watch, secured and pleasantest amongst its neighbours, it becomes the lively, the impulsive, and yet withal to the selfroand her neck by as many chains, gold, silver, and pinchbeck, as an Italian brigand ;-with divers other worth any body's while to consider in what respect possessed. He is one, we conceive, who would articles, as handkerchiefs, boas, &c., which however it is advisable or otherwise to modify the behaviour “have no nonsense,” as the phrase is, in his opinion costly and beautiful individually, formed all together or manners accordingly. We can say little, from of the possible or desirable; and who is in no danger an unbecoming and cook-maidish whole. Then came

of the perils, either of sentimentality or sentiment; the old ladies—but I give them up as too far gone in personal experience, how the case may be in the pretheir evil ways of dressing to hope for amelioration.

sent instance with regard to French manners. We either of an affected refinement of feeling, or any Ditto for the widows in their hideous black bonnets, have a great opinion of Mrs. Gore, both as a general very serious perception of any sort. He is not for with a foot and a half of black crape tacked to each observer, and one that particularly understands what bringing into the walks of publicity, male or female, side like wings to a paper kite--the horned caps of is charming in her own sex. On the other hand, Edward the confessor are nothing to them.

the notions of sequestered imaginations, nor to The French damsels alluded to above, eyed one or two of from books, and from a readiness to be pleased with have women glancing and bashful like fawns. He is these machines (they can go by no other name) with those who wish to please, and even from merely for having all things tight and convenient as a considerable attention, as if doubting the sanity of having passed through France in our way from dressing-case; “neat as imported;” polished, piquant, the wearer. 'One would not, sure, be frightful when one's dead,"

another country, we have got a strong impression, well-packed, and with no more flowers upon it than says Pope's Narcissa. I might address a similar that the “ hundreth” French woman, as well as the serve to give a hint of the smart pungency within, question to English widows,

hundreth Englishwoman, nay, the hundreth Italian, that like a bottle of attar of roses, or fleur d'epine. We “One would not, sure, be frightful when one mourns." is to say, the one that carries the requisite graces, the do not quarrel with him. Chacun a son gout. Every I looked from one end to the other of the crowded shop, in hopes of finding some happy lady to retrieve

beau ideal, of any country to its height, is likely to man to his taste. Nay, his taste is our own, as far as the honour of her country-but in vain. All wore

be so charming a person, in dress and every thing concerns the improvement of female manners in the same ugly garment more akin to a night-shift else, to her own countrymen, that what Mrs. Gore ordinary. We do think that the general style of female than a gown; the same warming-pan watch and

says of the perfectly dressing Englishwoman, is pre chains ; the same fly-llapping bonnet with bunches

English dressing and walking would be benetitted of ugly ribbons. Altogether they formed an awkward cisely the same thing that would be said of the per- by an inoculation of that which we conceive him to contrast to the “ tight, reg'lar built French craft,” as

fectly dressing Frenchwoman by the French, and of her recommend. We have no predilection in favour of Matthews's Tom Piper calls them. This time, how- Italian counterpart hy the Italians. It is impossible, shuffling, and shouldering, and lounging, of a mere



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moving onwards of the feet, and an absence of all severe and simple Dante, when (in the poetical spirit for the Diffusion of Knowledge, and illustrated with grace and self-possession. We can easily believe, of the image, and not of course in the letter), he

one hundred and thirty-six wood-cuts.) that the French women surpass the English in this praised his mistress for moving along like " a peacock,"

With the restoration of the house of Stuart, respect, because their climate is livelier, and them- and "a crane."

Fashion also regained the throne, from which she had selves better taught and respected. People may Soave à guisa va di un bel pavone,

been driven by the stern and puritanical republicans, start at that last word, but there is no doubt that the Diritta sopra se come una grue.

and, like the

merry monarch” with whom she regeneral run of French females are better taught, and

Sweetly she goes, like the bright peacock; strait

turned, many were the mad pranks she played in the

delirium of her joy, many the excesses she committed. therefore more respected than the same number of Above herself, like to the lady crane.

Taste and elegance were abandoned for extravagance English. They read more, they converse more, they Petrarch, speaking of Laura, does not venture upon and folly; and the male costume, which, in the time are on more equal terms with the other sex (as they these primeval images; but still he shews how much

of Charles I. had reached the highest point of picought to be), and hence the other sex have more he thought of the beauty of a woman's steps ! Laura turesque splendour, degenerated and declined from

this moment, and expired in the square coat, cockedvalue for their opinions, aye, and for their persons; too was a Frenchwoman, not an Italian, and probably hat, full-bottomed wig, and jack-boots of the followfor the more sensible a woman is, supposing her not had a different kind of walk. Petrarch, expresses the ing century. to be masculine, the more attractive she is, in her moral graces of it.

The birth of these odious articles may be traced to

Charles the Second's reign; at the commencement of proportionate power to entertain. But whether it is

Non era l'audar suo cosa mortale,

which a few fantastical additions to the Vandyke that we are English, or fonder of poetry, in its higher Ma d' angelica forma.

costume injured but did not totally destroy it. The sense, than of vers de societe, or the poetry of polite

Her walk was like no mortal thing, but shap'd

doublet was made exceedingly short, open in front, life, we cannot help feeling a prejudice in favour of After an angel's.

without any under waistcoat, and displaying a rich Mrs. Gore's notion about the “hundreth” English- In English poetry the lover speaks with the usual

shirt, which bulged out from it over the waist-band of

the loose breeches, which, as well as the large full woman; though perhaps the “hundreth” French

enthusiasm of his mistress's eyes and lips, &c., but sleeves, were exceedingly ornamented with points and woman, if we could see her, or the hundredth Italian

ribands. Beneath the knee hung long drooping lace he scarcely ever mentions her walk. The fact is reor Spanish woman, would surpass all others, by dint markable, and the reason too obvious. The walk is

ruffles, and the falling collar of lace, with a high

crowned hat and plume of feathers, still preserved of combining the sort of private manner which we

not worth mention. Italian and (we believe) Spanish some of its old gallant cavalier character ; but the have in our eye, with some exquisite implication of a

fashions of the court of Louis XIV. of France soon poetry abound with the reverse. Milton, deeply imfitness for general intercourse, which we have never

found their way across the water to “White Hall bued with the Italian, as well as with his own percepjet met with.

Stairs;" and the servile imitation of the courtiers of tions of beauty as a great poet, did vot forget, in his the Grande Monarque gave rise to that absurd and Meantime, we repeat, that we give up to our cordescription of Eve, to say, that

detestable monstrosity, a periwig. His majesty, it respondent's vituperations the gait of English females

Grace was in all her steps, Heaven in her eye,

appears, when a little boy, had remarkably beautiful in general, and their dress also; though it is a little

hair, which hung in long waving curls upon his

In every gesture dignity and love. hard in him to praise the smallness of the French

shoulders, and the courtiers, out of compliment to This moving and gesticulating beauty was not

their young sovereign, had heads of false hair made bonnet at the expense of the largeness of the English,

to imitate his natural locks, which obtained the name when it is recollected that the latter are copied from English; at least she is not the Englishwoman of our

of perukes. When the king grew up, he returned the France, and that our fair countrywomen were ridiculed

days. Mrs. Hutchinson perhaps might have been compliment by adopting the article himself, and the on their first visit there after the war, for the such a woman; or the ladies of the Bridgewater perruke or peruke speedily lodged upon the heads

and shoulders of all the gentlemen of England, under very reverse appearance. But it is to the spirit of family, for whom he wrote his Comus. In Virgil,

the corrupted appellation of a periwig. our mode of dressing and walking, that we object; speaking with him in the guise of a wod-nymph, Oneas is not aware that his mother Venus has been

“Misfortunes never come single," says the Proverb; and both are unfit either for the private or public till she begins to move away: the “divinity” then

so extraordinary a head-dress as the periwig demanded

a different covering to the high crowned hat or bro "walk” of life, because both are alike untaught and become apparent.

leafed Spanish Sombrero. Down went the crowns, unpleasing, -alike indicative of minds not properly

and up went the brims at the side; a row of feathers cultivated, and of habitual feelings that do not care to Et vera incessû patuit dea.

was placed round it in lieu of the chivalric plume, be agreeable. The walk is asaunter or shuffle, and the

And by her walk the Queen of Love is known. and the first approach was made to the cocked hats

of the eighteenth century.

Dryden. 'dress a lump. Or if not a lump throughout, it is a lump at both ends, with a horrible pinch in the middle. A The women of Spain, and Spanish America, are

JAMES II. AND WILLIAM INI. tight-laced Englishwoman is almost invariably a most celebrated throughout the world for the elegance of

The two brief reigns of James II, and William III. painful sight; because her notion of being charming their walking, and for the way in which they carry

are distinguished by scarcely any novelty in the civil

The periwig became more is confined to three inches of ill-used ribs and liver; their veil or mantilla, as alluded to by our corres- monstrous, and it was the fashion of the beaux to while her head is either grossly ignorant of the harm pondent. Knowing it only from books, we cannot comb their perukes publicly, for which purpose large she is doing herself, or her heart more deplorably say precisely in what the beauty of their walk con

combs of ivory or tortoise shell, curiously chased and careless of the consequences to her offspring.

ornamented, were carried in the pocket as constantly sists; but we take it to be something between state

as the snuff-box, which had latterly also become an Are we of opinion then, that the dress and walk of liness and vivacity,-between a consciousness of indispensable appendage to a fine gentleman. At English women would be bettered, generally speaking, their being admired, and that grace which is natural

court, in the mall, and in the boxes of the theatre, a by taking the advice of our correspondent? Most cer- to any human being who is well made, till art or

gallant of these days combed his peruke during a con

versation or flirtation with the same air that a modern tainly we are; and for this reason; that there is some

diffidence spoils it. It is the perfection, we doubt exquisite would twirl his moustachios. The full sense of grace, at all events, in the attire and bearing not, of animal elegance. We have an English doubt, bottomed wig was worn by the learned professions,

and those who affected particular gravity. Farquhar, of the females of the continent; some evidence of whether we should not require an addition or modi. mind, and some testimony to the proper claims of the fication of something, not indeed diffident, but per

in his comedy of Love and a Bottle,' written in

1698, remarks that “a full wig'' is imagined as “inperson; whereas, the only idea in the heads of the haps not quite so confident,--something which to the fallible a token of wit as the laurel." majority with us is that of being in fashion merely perfection of animal elegance, should add that of in- The broad brims of the hats were now frequently because it is the fashion, or of dressing in a manner tellectual and moral refinement, and a security from

turned up on two sides; they were ornamented by

several feathers placed round them, or by bows of to shew how much they can afford. This is partly the chances of coarseness and violence. But all

ribands. To turn up the brim or flap of the hat, owing, no doubt, to our being a commercial people, these are matters of breeding and bringing up,-aye, was, in the language of that day, to cock it, and each and also to the struggles which every body has of “birth, parentage, and education,” and we should gallant cocked his hat according to his own fancy, or

after the style of some leader of fashion. One mode been making for the last forty years to seem richer be grateful when we can get any one of them.

was called after the unfortunate Duke of Monmouth, than they are, some for the sake of concealing how Better have even a good walk than nothing, for there

the Monmouth cock, they have decreased in means, and others to shew is some refinement in it, and moral refinement too, how they have risen; but a nation may be comthough we may not always think the epithet very ap

COSTUME mercial, and yet have a true taste. The Florentines plicable to the possessor. Good walking and good remained unaltered during the reign of James II.;

but some Dutch fashions appear to have followed the had it, when they were at once the leaders of dressing, truly so called, are alike valuable, only

court of William and Mary. The bosom, which had trade and of the fine arts, in the time of Lorenzo inasmuch as they afford some external evidence,

been for some years past indelicately exposed, was de Medicis. It is to our fine arts and our increasing however slight, of a disposition to orderliness and again consigned to the guardianship of the jealous knowledge that we ourselves must look to improve- harmony in the mind within,-of shapelness and

and formal stomacher. The elegant full sleeve of ment even in dress, in default of being impelled to it

the gown was replaced by a tight one, with a cuff grace in the habitual movements of the soul.

above the elbow, in imitation of the coats of the by greater liveliness of spirit, or a more convenient

We must postpone our remarks on existing male gentlemen, from beneath which fell a profusion of climate. We shall then learn to oppose even the costume till next week, recommending the reader's lace in the shape of ruffles or lappets ; and a long climate better, and to furnish it with the grace and attention meanwhile to the following extract from

glove in the portrait of Queen Mary by Visscher, colour which it wants. In France, the better tempe. Mr. Planché's volume, a book, we suspect, that will

completes the envelopement of the arm in satin, lace,

and leather. The hair, which had hitherto been rature of the atmosphere, as well as intellectual and

be read wherever hat or bonnet is thought of; and permitted to fall in natural ringlets on the shoulders moral causes, impels people to a livelier and happier that, we take it, is a pretty wide sphere, even in and seldom burthened with more ornaments than a way of walking. They have no reason to look as if very serious countries.

jewel or a flower, was now combed up from the

forehead like a rising billow, and surmounted by they were uncomfortable. In the South of Europe,

piles of ribands and lace, disposed in regular and alwhere everything respires animal sensibility, and love MALE AND FEMALE COSTUME. ternate tiers, or the rihands were formed into high and music divide the time with business, the most unaffected people acquire an apparent consciousness

* Holme spells it "perawicke.” A letter was written by

to the University of Cambridge forbidding the and spring in the gait, which in England would be (Taken from Mr. Planche's History of British Costume

members to wear periwigs, smoke tobacco, and read their thought ostentatious. It gave no such idea to the from the Earliest Periods,--published by the Society

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Charles II

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stiffened bows, like the late fashionable coiffure à la There is the military cock, and the mercantile cock; day, if not so picturesque as that of Charles the Giraffe, and covered or not, as it might happen, by a and while the beaux of St. James's wear their hats First's time, would at least have comfort and durabi. lace scarf or veil, that streamed down each side of under their arms, the beaux of Moorfields wear lity to recommend it; and an Englishman, instead of the pinnacle. Farquhar, in his comedy of “Love in them diagonally over their left or right eye. Some being caricatured, as of yore, with a pair of sheers in a Bottle,"mentions the “high top-knots;" and Switt, wear their hats with the corners, which should come his hand as uncertain what fashion to adopt, might "the pinners edged with colberteen," as the lace over their foreheads, in a direct line pointed into the remain contented, and described asstreamers were called. The fan in its modern, or air. Those are the Gawkies. Others do not above "An honest man close buttoned to the chin, what would now be termed “old fashioned" shape is half cover their heads, which is, indeed, owing to the Broad cloth without, and a warm heart within." seen in the hands of the Dutchess of Portsmouth and shallowness of their crowns.” The hat edged with a Queen Mary, having superseded its picturesque pre- gold binding, the same informant tells us, was at that

In attempting to describe the decessor during the reign of Charles II.

time the distinguishing badge of “the brothers of the
turf.” In 1770 the Nivernois hat was the rage. It



was exceedingly small, and the flaps fastened up to THE REIGN OF QUEEN ANNE, (1702-14,) the shallow crown, which was seen above them, by

we fling ourselves upon the generosity of those of the hooks and eyes,

The corner worn in front was of nineteenth, as a mere catalogue of articles introduced vanished every relic of our chivalric costume except the old

spout or shovel-shape, and stiffened out by by fashion in our later days would, to make it com. the sword, which still completes the full dress of the

wire. Gold-laced hats were again general in 75 ; and plete, occupy more space than our limits can afford; court of St. James's. Square-cut coats and long flapped waistcoats, with in 78 were adopted by many to give them a military

and the very contemplation of them in the innumeor distinguished air, and to escape the press-gangs

rable prints of the time has nearly bewildered us. pockets in them, the latter meeting the stockings, that were remarkably busy in that year.*

An intelligent writer on this subject has remarked, still drawn up over the knee so highly as to entirely conceal the breeches, but gartered below, it; large shortly after this date, and the French revolution in

Round hats began to be worn in the morning that Fashion, from the time of George I, "has been

such a varying goddess, that neither history, tradition, hanging cuffs and lace ruffles; the skirts of the coat stiffened out with wire or buckram, from between 1789, completed the downfall of the three-cornered

or painting has been able to preserve all her mimic. which peeped the hilt of the sword, deprived of the

cocked hat on both sides of the channel. It was in- forms; like Proteus struggling in the arms of Telemabroad and splendid belt in which it swung in the pre: Staines, and Windsor,” from the triangular directionsulted in its decay by the nickname of "an Egham,

chus on the Phan aic coasts, she passed frora shape

to shape with the rapidity of thought.” And Addison ceeding reigns ; blue or scarlet silk stockings, with

tells us that there is not so variable a thing in nature blue or silver clocks; lace neckcloths ; square-toed post to those places, which it was said to resemble ; short-quartered shoes, with high red heels and small but a flat, folding, crescent-shaped beaver, still called

as a lady's head-dress, which rose and fell in his own a cocked hat, but more correctly an opera-hat, distin

memory above thirty degrees. buckles; very long and formally curled perukes, guished the beaux at the theatre, from whence it de.

It is probable, however, that the inconstancy of black riding-wigs, bag - wigs, and night-cap-wigs; rived its name, and at full dress evening parties, till

fashion is not very much greater now than it was small three-cornered hats, laced with gold or silver within the last few years, and the chapeau-de-bras, a

shortly after the Norman invasion, and in almost galloon, and sometimes trimmed with feathers, composed the habit of the noblemen and gentlemen during laced prototype, slipped under the arm of the courtier, small triangular silk article, the shadow of its gold- every succeeding century have we quoted the lamen

tations of some poet or historian over the caprices the reigns of Queen Anne and

The old original three-cornered cocked hat, hanished and extravagance of his cotemporaries, male and GEORGE 1., (1714—27.) from the fashionable world, has found a temporary female, lay and ecclesiastic. It is the multiplication

of authorities that encreases our difficulty with our Minuter fashions were, of course, continually arising refuge on the heads of the state coachmen of our and disappearing, adopted and named after some

royal and noble families, and enjoys a sort of life-in- information; but, on the other band, (and we call leader of the ton, or in commemoration of some pubterest in the pegs of Greenwich and Chelsea Hospitals,

the attention of our readers most particularly to this

The fact,), the costume of a nation is not disturbed by the lic event. The famous battle of Ramilie, for instance, dropping to the earth with its veteran wearer.

introduction or abandonment of minute alterations introduced the Ramilie cock of the hat, and a long opera hat has given way to the crush hat, and the gradually-diminishing plaited tail to the wig, with a chapeau-de-bras is but just tolerated within the pri- and ephemeral fashions. Although we may scarcely great bow at the top and a smaller one at the bottom vileged precincts of the court.

find figures dressed or armed precisely alike in a called a Ramilietail, and the perukeitself a Ramilierig,

The wig was likewise doomed to feel the influence

dozen coeval monuments or paintings, the general which was worn as late as the rign of George III. Tying of the French Revolution. During the latter half of

character of the time is stamped upon all, and to the hair is said to have been first introduced by the the eighteenth century it has gradually diminished in

that we have, at first from necessity, and, now upon noted Lord Bolingbroke. (See Nash's Collect. for size, and the practice of frizzing, plastering, and principle, confined ourselves. Worcestershire, in 561.) The cocked hat had a

powdering the hair till it was at least as ugly as a THE REIGN OF QUEEN ANNE, (1702-1714) variety of shapes in the reign of Queen Anne. In

wig, has even now some faithful followers. In 1772, was brief as it was happy and glorious.” The No. 526 of the Spectator, "John Sly, a haberdasher

a most macaw-like toupée and a portentous tail dis- dress of the ladies during the greater part of her of hats and tobacconist,” is directed to take down tinguished a maccaroni (vide print, entitled Macca

short and gentle sway resembled, in its general feathe names of such country gentlemen as have left the roni's Courtship, published Feb, 1, 1772); but the tures, that of the time of James II. and William NI. hunting for the military cock of the hat upon the ap- republican spirit of the Parisians revived the classical The tower or commode was still worn, and the gowns proach of peace; and in No. 532, is a letter written

coiffure of Rome, and a “tête à la Brutus” put to and petticoats flounced and furbelowed so that every in the name of the said John Sly, in which he states

flight the "ailes de pigeon" of the ancient regime. part of the garment was "in curl,” and a lady of that he is preparing hats for the several kinds of The bag still clings to the collar of the courtier, fashion “looked like one of those animals,” says heads that make figures in the realms of Great Bri- though the wig and even the powder has been gra

the Spectator, “ which in the country we call a Frieztain, with cocks significant of their powers and facul- dually dispensed with, and a solitary pigtail is now

land hen." But, in 1711, we find Mr. Addison reties. His hats for men of the faculties of law and

and then seen reclining on an elderly gentleman's marking, that “the whole sex is now dwarfed and physic do but just turn up to give a little life to their shoulder, as if only to remind us

shrunk into a race of beauties that seems almost sagacity ; his military hats glare full in the face; and

“That such things were,

another species. I remember several ladies who he has prepared a familiar easy cock for all good com

And were most dear to us."

were once very near seven feet high, and at present panions between the above mentioned extremes.*

want some inches of five. How they came to be The square-cut coat and long flapped waistcoat of thus curtailed I cannot learn : whether the whole THE REIGN OF GEORGE 11. (1727—60),

the reign of queen Anne and the first two Georges, sex be at present under any penance which we know produced no alteration in the general character of the underwent an alteration about the middle of the reign nothing of, or whether they have cast their headdress; but to the catalogue of wigs we find added the of their successor. The skirts were unstiffened, the dresses in order to surprise us with something in tye wig and the bob-wig, the latter sometimes worn waists shortened, and the art of the present court suit that kind which shall be entirely new; though I find without powder. The ramilie tail was followed by introduced. Cloth became the general material for most are of opinion they are at present like trees the pig-tail, which appears in prints of this reign as the coat, and velvet, silk, satin, and embroidery were lopped and pruned that will entirely sprout out and early as 1745, and some young men wore their own reserved for court dresses, or waistcoats and breeches flourish with greater heads than before.” He conhair dressed and profusely powdered. In the Ram- only. The latter were, from the close of George the fesses himself, however, highly pleased with the bler, No. 109, dated 1751, is a letter from a young Second's reign, worn over the stockings, as at present, coiffure then in fashion, which, as may be seen from nobleman, who says his mother" would rather follow and fastened first by buckles and afterwards by strings. the later portraits of Queen Anne, was of a natural him to the grave than see him sneak about with dirty The shoes were worn with longer quarters and larger and consequently elegant description; the hair clusshoes and blotted figures, hair unpowdered, and a hat buckles. The lace cravat was abandoned about 1735, tering in curls down the back of the neck; uncocked ;" and in 1753, the Adventurer, No. 101, and a black riband worn round the neck tied in a and though hair-powder was worn by some, her contains a description of the gradual metamorphosis large bow in front. I To this succeeded white cam- Majesty's chesnut ringlets are unsullied by that of a green horn into blood. “I cut off my hair, and bric stocks, buckled behind; and to them (about abominable composition. procured a brown bob periwig of Wilding, of the same 1789) the modern muslin cravat, in which it was, at The praise the essayist lavishes upon the ladies colour, with a single row of curls just round the one time, the fashion to bury the chin. About the heads he is shortly, however, obliged to quality by bottom, which I wore very nicely curled, and without same period the shirt collar appeared and the rufe his reprobation of a new fashion that had sprung up powder. My hat, which had been cocked with great vanished. The coat was made up with lapels and a a few months later. This was an introduction of exactness in an equilateral triangle, I discarded, and tail, being cut square in front above the hips as well the true heiress and successor of the fardingale—the purchased one of a more fashionable size, the fore as the waistcoat, which, deprived of its flaps, was soon enormous, inconvenient, and ridiculous hoop. corner of which projected nearly two inches further made as ridiculously short as it had previously been Sir Roger de Coverley's picture gallery, his gani?than those on each side, and was moulded into the unnecessarily long. Pantaloons and Hessian boots mother is said to have on "the new-fashioned petti. shape of a spout.” The fashion, however, soon were introduced about the same period: but from coat except that the modern is gathered at the waist.

changed, for we find he afterwards altered his hat by this time the fashions are in the recollection of most The old lady was evidently in the wheel fartingales : considerably elevating and shortening the fore corner of our readers. Short boots and loose; trowsers the which projected all round, for the knight adds—“My

of it till "it no longer resembled a spout, but the result of the visit of the Cossacks to London, havo, grandmother appears as if she stored in a large drum, corner of a minced-pye.”

together with frock coats, rendered our costume more whereas the ladies now walk as if they were in a goThis latter fashion was succeeded by a larger cocked convenient and less formal; and could we exchange cart;" the whale-bone petticoat, on its first introhat imported from Germany, and distinguished by the the heavy and tasteless beaver hat for some light and duction, representing a triangular rather than a name of the Keven-huller; and, at the commence- more elegant head-covering, the dress of the present hooped appearance. In the months of July in that ment of the reign of

year, we find that it was swollen out to an enormous * For this and several other interesting facts concerning the GEORGE III. (1760), fashion of the long reign of George III., we are indebted to

size, so that what the ladies had lost in height, they the notes and conversation of a highly esteemed octogenarian,

made up in breadth ; and a correspondent, speakizy we are told, “hats are now worn upon an average six

whose veracity is as unquestionable as bis Inemory is extrordi- of the fashionable country ladies at sixty miles dizinches and three fifths broad in the brim, and cocked

tance from London, says, they can absolutely walk between Quaker and Kevenhuller. Some have their

In 1977, the buckles on the coat and the buckles in the

in their hooped petticoats without inconvenience. hats open before like a church spout, or the scales shoes were worn of an enormous size, and occasioner the · they weigh flour in; come wear them rather sharper, production of a caricature, called Buckles and Buttons, or

Hoods of various colours were worn by ladies a: I'm the thing, deme!' A beau with steel buttons dazzling a the opera in 1711-12, and cherry-colour was the like the nose of a grey-hound, and we can distinguish lady, is the subject of another caricature of the same year. prevailing fashion of the latter year. Scarlet stockby the look of the hat the mode of the wearer's mind. + This must not be confounded with the solitaire which was

ings were worn by fashionable belles, and the practice a black riband worn loosely round the neck almost like an

of taking snuff is mentioned in No. 3+4 of the Spec, Nov. 12, 1712, Jobn Sly writes to say he has seen of late

order of knighthood. Vide portraits of Buffon, published by French hais of a prodigious magnitude pass by his observatory the Sociely of the Diffusion of Useful Knowledge.

tator as one that tine ladies had lately fallen into.

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