No. 2.-Muslin corsage. The plaited front has a square pel-posed of narrow flutings and bias bands, embroidered with pearlerine, outlined by a wide insertion, framed in lace. The Me- color. White lace collar and undersleeves. Black silk hat, dicis collarette, the cuffs of the large sleeves, and the erect with black and pearl-gray plumes. heading of the puffs at the shoulders, are of lace. No. 3. Here the muslin fronts are plaited and open. The deep lace ruffle is surmounted by a ruffle and ruche of muslin. Lace trims the short puffed sleeves. Fig. 3.-Toilet of Pale-green Crêpe de Chine. The deep flounce is surmounted by a bias band framed in silken rouleaux of the same shade, and crape ruffles. The large buttons are also of silk. The full pouf has a band and deep flounce. The tunic forms a pointed apron; the flounce is headed by a single rou No. 4.—This has a sailor-collar, edged with embroidered insertion and lace. Similar bands trim the fronts, and the de-leau and row of buttons. The close-fitting casaque opens with sign is repeated upon the sleeves. No. 6.-Bathing costume of white flannel. The full panta loons are confined just below each knee by a bias band of the same, with a Greek trimming in black woolen braid. Peplum blouse, with short sleeves. The Greek border is repeated upon the blouse. The large buttons are of flannel. No. 7.-Bathing costume of black merino. The short pantaloons are trimmed and confined by bands of blue cashmere. Short open skirt, with blue revers and large black buttons. Smaller buttons fasten the blue vest. Spanish jacket and short puffed sleeves, all of merino, with cashmere bands. Leather belt. revers; the sleeves are straight; all are trimmed like the skirts. Cambric chemisette and undersleeves. Green ribbon bow at the neck. Toque of green silk. The very It is ga Fig. 4. Walking Dress. Skirt of pale lilac silk. deep flounce forms an inverted point at each side. thered and headed by a band embroidered in a darker shade. Casaque of purple silk, with open fronts and revors; the jockeys of the straight sleeves, and the deep basque à revers, are also open. The ceinture has a large bow at the back with square ends. The bands are embroidered with darker silk. Muslin collarette and undersleeves. Alpine hat of gray straw with a purple feather fastened down by a silk bow to match. At the opposite side is a tiny green feather aigrette. ticoat is bordered by a broad ruching of the same. large ovals. The fronts of the open train tunic are turned back Fig. 6.-Dinner Dress of Yellowish-brown Summer Silk. The The short tunic follows round petticoat has a very deep fluted flounce. Upon this fall Fig. 7.-Promenade Costume. Skirt of light-blue silk barège. No. 8.-Bathing dress of black serge. The full pantaloons are confined by jambières of brightly-striped delaine, with scal-This has two flounces; the upper one is put on with a heading. loped borders. The close-fitting tunic buttons at the side. Straight sleeves. Broad bias band, collar and cuffs of delaine. The scalloped trimming ornaments the front. Ceinture and rosette of leather. No. 9.-India rubber slipper, with a sock of crimson silk net, confined by a broad elastic band. Crimson rosette. No. 10. Sandal of straw, with white bandelettes. No. 11.-White linen slipper. This is fastened upon the instep by a rosette of blue delaine. close-fitting corsage, and outline rounded basque fronts. The Black silk casaque. Bands framed in narrow flutings trim the skirt forms two large puffs, each with a double row of gathered flounces. A fluting surmounts the ruffles of the open sleeves. The puff-rosette at the back of the corsage is fastened down by a large button. Buttons attach the fronts. Lace collar and undersleeves. Hat of fine white straw, with a blue feather at the side. DESCRIPTION OF COLORED PLATE. At FOR article on "The Mode in Mourning Goods," see page 70. WHAT SHOULD BE WORN, AND WHAT SHOULD NOT. FROM THE TABLETS OF A PARISIAN LADY OF SOCIETY. FIG. 1.-Costume of Light-brown Iris Crape.-The long skirt has two gathered flounces; the upper one is put on with a heading; the second skirt outlines a rounded tablier and deeper tunic; the small flounce is headed by a wider fluting of the material. each side is a large rosette of silk to match, with a darker cen-ite materials of the present season. tre. Close corsage. Flutings head the cuffs and double ruffles of the full sleeves. The ceinture, rosette, and floating ends are of silk, with cross-strips of the darker shade. Silk buttons fasten the fronts. Lace collar and undersleeves. GOSSAMER fabrics of gauze, crape and grenadine, are the favor Fig. 2.-Promenade Costume.-The skirts are of pearl-colored twilled foulard. The lower of these is bordered by a very wide fluting, framed in embroidered bands, and surmounted by a narrower trimming. A band and narrow fluting edge the second skirt; this is rather short in front, being lifted to form the four broad folds. The black silk jacket is shaped; the sleeves are wide and floating; below the opening at the back appear the three large black loops with long ends. The trimming is com The grisaille crapes are delightful to make up into costumes. The crêpe granité is beautiful; it is made in all shades of gray, pale lavender, vapor-color, steel-blue, water of the Nile, abricotine (a light orange), fawn-color, and a pale buff with a golden tinge about it, called écru don. Light grays and all pale colors are fashionable this summer. All the prettiest fancy materials, and all the prettiest silks, are light-colored. There is a pale grayish green which is quite the fureur, though not at all a pretty color. I think I have already told you there are a great many imitations of crêpe de Chine. Some of these are exceedingly pretty, and make up into pretty costumes. Amongst them crêpe Osaka and crêpon de l'Inde are the best imitations, and look very well with two rouleaux. A bodice of white muslin, ornamented for tunics, upper skirts, and mantles. with embroidery and Valenciennes lace, is worn under this jacket. The new muslins are very beautiful. They are white, with patterns of large sprays of flowers, foliage, and feather-like fern-leaves. Sometimes the pattern is of all the colors of the flowers, sometimes it is camaieu, that is, of several shades of one color, and sometimes it is in black. In the latter case the design must be fine and delicate, so as to imitate an e There are also very nice perca", in much the which are the delight of life for morn pleasant. On these the pretty delicate il des ally with a pale buff ground. They are made' jacket bodices, and trimmed with narrow finely-flu&trillings. The muslins are made with gathered flounces, headed with ruches of self-colored cambric of the principal color of the dress. This is a new and effective style of trimming. esses Among the newest trimmings, we must note the dentelle Anglaise, or imitation of ancient point lace, which is now so fashionable. It is used for trimming, not only for cambrics and muslins, but for foulard and even silk dresses. The point lace borders are put on almost plain upon the dress, and headed with a strip or very narrow fluting of the same material. style, bol and Another pretty trimming consists of strips of silk, partly ungener-raveled, to form a fringe, and then arranged into a double 4h loose ruche. This makes a very pretty and effective trimming for the summer; it takes the place of the light feather fringes so much in vogue last winter. The train is added only to very dressy toilets; all wa king costumes are made with short skirts. The upper skirt is very short, and so is the mantle. For demi-toilet this mantle is generally a loose or half-fitting mantle, trimmed like the skirt with flutings of the same. Costumes of poult de soie, or faille silk, are made with a basque or short upper skirt, which forms the casaque together with the high bodice. There are often as many as three or four skirts superposed. A very elegant dress of pale golden brown faille silk is made with a first skirt trimmed round the bottom with a silk fluting of a darker shade of golden brown than the dress, and above this, leaving one strip of the skirt to show, with a plain band of silk of the same color. A second skirt is trimmed with two flutings of the paler brown, put on alternately with plain bands of the darker color. It is caught up on each side with two long strips of the dark-brown silk, edged with fringe at the bottom. There is again a third skirt which is trimmed and caught up exactly in the same way, but it is not quite of the same shape as the other; it forms in front a sort of rounded apron, and at the back it is much longer. The bodice has a deep rounded basque at the back, trimmed with a double fluting of light-brown, and a band of dark-brown silk. Bodice open in front, à châle, with long revers, edged with a narrow fluting; coat-sleeves, with cuffs to correspond. Ornament of strips of dark-brown silk, edged with fringe, upon the shoulder. Chemisette with flutings of Valenciennes lace inside. A costume of mauve crêpeline is made thus: first skirt trimmed with seven gathered flounces; second skirt plain in front, and edged with violet silk fringe, above which there are two plain | bands of violet silk, and looped up at the back with a scarf of the same material, the ends of which are deeply fringed; these ends, or lappets, fall over the under skirt from under the full tournure formed by the upper one; similar lappets fall in front on either side; they are, as well as the scarf, trimmed with a band of violet silk. The high bodice is ornamented with braces of violet silk, edged on either side with a crape fluting. The epaulets are fringed, and the pagoda sleeves are trimmed with a band of violet silk, and edged with fringe. Again, a costume of pale-green poult de soie is composed of a round skirt, trimmed with a deep fluted flounce, put on with a heading; this flounce is ornamented with slightly-gathered unbleached Valenciennes lace, arranged in vandykes. Between each vandyke there is a bow of ribbon of a darker shade of green. A tunic, looped up in front à la Paysanne, and slit open behind, is piped round with darker green silk, and edged with unbleached lace. High bodice, with Watteau basques and sleeves open at the bottom. Small fichu of the same material placed over the bodice, trimmed, as well as the bodice and sleeves, with pipings, lace and bows. We also notice, for a young lady, a dress of white chaly, which is most elegant and tasteful. First skirt trimmed with a fluting, the heading of which is fastened down with a narrow rouleau of cerise silk, ornamented with two similar rouleaux, coquettishly looped up at the sides. Short loose jacket, trimmed round the bottom with a white fluting and a cerise rouleau, open in front with large revers, and fastened with a bow of cerise ribbon, just under the revers; demi-wide sleeves, slit open outside up to the elbow. The revers and sleeves are trimmed Flounces are most elaborate things just now; they are put on with one, two, or three fluted headings, piped, and often edged with narrow lace. Muslins and gauzes are frequently ornamented with bouillons, put on with a narrow heading, one each side. I noticed a grenadine dress trimmed in this way which looked extremely pretty. It was white, with a small pattern of detached and very delicate green leaves. On the under skirt there were five bouillons, or puffings, about three inches deep, finished top and bottom with a narrow fluting, piped with green silk; and upon the gathers of the bouillon on either side there was a strip of green silk sautache. The upper skirt was gathered up along the seam of each width. A bouillon similar to those on the dress, but narrower, was put on en bretelles upon the plain high bodice. A sash of the same material, trimmed with flutings and green sautache, and fastened at the back with a bow and lappets, completes the toilet. Bonnets are made higher in shape and more elaborately trimmed than ever. Among the last models I have taken note of the following: A bonnet of fine unbleached straw, with a high diadem of straw and Chantilly lace, ornamented with a bunch of white china asters, mixed with the foliage and berries of the ivy, and continued into a long trailing branch upon the left shoulder; lace fall at the back, and lappets of the same in front, fastened with a small bunch of asters. A bonnet, with a round crown, of unbleached rice straw, with a diadem lined with violet faille silk, and a border of black lace, with straw picots. Revers lined with similar silk, and a bow of ribbon to match, with long ends. Bunch of violet flowers, and of the hawthorn berries and blossoms, with a trailing branch of foliage upon the left side of the bonnet. Necklet of violet silk and black lace, fastened at the side. A rice straw bonnet, with flat crown, and double diadem in front, piped with cheveux de la reine-colored silk. Bouillon of tulle, with straw picots and a fall of white blond at the back. White feather thrown back at the side. Torsade and strings of silk, of the same color as the pipings, and of white blond. A bonnet of eau du Nil-colored crêpe de Chine, ornamented with a pretty crimped fringe, and with a beautiful branch of white acacia. The shape of the bonnet is a half circle; it has a small border, turned up as a rouleau. The feather-like acacia branch is placed just at the back of this rouleau. At the back there are crape lapels, fringed with silk, and in front, strings of the same, which are fastened with a fringed bow. Another crêpe de Chine bonnet is pearl-gray; it has a bandeau ornamented with thick satin rouleaux of the same color; it is trimmed with a wreath of small pink roses, and with a small humming-bird, with long drooping tail, placed at the side. The strings are of white lace, and are tied in front with a fringed bow of crape. Again, a bonnet of white lace, mixed with black lace, ornamented with a bunch of green feathers, fastened with an artistic jewel. Bows and lapels of lace give much style to this bonnet. Bonnets of Belgian straw, or of very fine black straw, are coquettishly trimmed with flowers in all their natural tints, and with crêpe de Chine or silk gauze-now often preferred to the former, as lighter and more vapory. A round hat, in the Henry III. style, is made of white rice straw. The crown is trimmed round with a quilling of white tulle, edged with a fluting of white blond, with straw picots, 1527 aud with a rouleau of green silk; on the left side thee is a inch of white water-flowers, with long reeds; at the Lack, a low of green ribbon, with long ends. Lats have high crowns this summer. Some are in the Tyrolese, and some in the Incroyable shape, trimmed with colored feathers. There are also some pretty mushroom hats of rice or fine Elgian straw, for young ladies. They are trimmed with a light souf of white or pale-colored silk ganze, and with a uquet of various flowers, placed a littte on one side. Lace is the finish of all elegant toilets this summer. Valencicules lace is used for trimming the simpler, though most tasteful toilets of percale, cambric, muslin, batiste, lawn, or unBleached foulard. Mechlin lace and point lace are employed for light-colored silk dresses, and black guipure, dentelle des Indes, and Chantilly hage for those of darker colors. Black lace is also very fashionable for mantles; and a circular or mantelet of Chantilly lace, worn over a colored silk or gauze dress, is far more dressy than the complete costume. Crêpe de Chine is, as I believe I have already mentioned, used not for the costume complet, but merely for the tunic, or for the second skirt and mantle, over an underdress of silk, the skirt 3 which is generally trimmed with flounces and flutings. Crêpe Cine is always edged with fringe. The new vails are made of tulle or very fine gauze -black white, or colored; they are stretched over the face and fastened the back over the hair with a pin or brooch. Thus, as brooches are no longer worn at the throat, they are now put on at the back of the head. Some of these pins for the hair are extremely pretty. A pretty model is a hand, which seems to e drawing the folds of the lace together; others represent a bird, a butterfly, or a flower. Otherwise, lockets have quite taken the place of brooches, ind look very well with the open dresses en châle, or squareshaped; they are suspended by a necklet of black velvet, or by a colled chain of gold. may not persons w The would cr not tear detecti shelte stantl comm the pt to be i to ery different from the much more plain-spoken ese ladies call their husbands. -sense and penetration of this sort of woman te her a terrible satirist, if her knowledge did a kindly toleration. She has a wonderful tact in resence of dul Iness, when dullness endeavors to behind silence and circumspection. She can in.quish between the man who dresses and talks in a and fashion. Je way, because that is the habit of th w e mixes, and because he does not care fe who would only be surprised or puzzled by his the man who hides his stupidity behind a shirtfront si to that worn by other men, and behind an air of indiferent languor. Such a woman is never a worshiper of those manly qualities which are peculiar to the hero of the boar" ng-school giri and the lady novelist. She is not much an ader of brute force per se. She is more than likely to conceive a positive detestation for the large, stolid, small brained, sclfwilled, and selfish idiot of six feet two, who is so ranch adored by women of a certain phrenological development. In he estimation manliness does not consist in combining the tastes of a groom with the dress of a gentleman; and if there is anything she is likely to abhor, it is a display of that fine, confident belief in the power of mere male size to captivate women, which is the sole creed of this well-known hero. If her girlish imagination has led her to marry some such man, his position some dozen years after is not to be envied. But it must not be supposed for a moment that we complain of this system of gentle hypocrisy which may so far influence the judgment of the majority of women in regarding men. Ia itself it is the highest compliment men can pay to wonen. Even as the lion, in innumerable legends, forgot his real nature, and crouched submissively before an innocent girl, so do men leave behind them selfishness, arrogance, and anger ou entering the presence of women. If they are not exactly what they pretend to be, it is comforting to reflect that they know they ought to be something different from what they are. If the influence of feminine society does nothing more than cause them to asdemeanor which are not exhibited by them elsewhere, it has already done much. The parure of pearls, seed-diamonds, and precious stones, laid upen velvet, are very fashionable. The set consists of the ban-ime, pro tem., a gentleness and toleration, and politeness of dead for the hair, the necklace and bracelets. The fashions for children seem to gain in simplicity this year; Loglish models being generally adopted, especially for boys. They wear the Breton or the Russian co tumes in foile fcrue or btc piqué. The Broton costume is a loose vest, and short wide trowsers, of the unbleached linen, trimmed with white braid and larg · pil buttons. Die Russian costume has nickerbockers and a short blouse or Tubl. rustened round the waist with a belt. It is pretty in fare cloth, but looks lest of all for the summer in white fiqué with a profi sion of small white gimp buttons. It is also made of the toile frue and fastened round the waist with a ; ead, knotted, and finished off with tassels. As for littic gills, they invariably wear the low dress, with sante bodice and double skirt. In Paris they always wear the Liga chemisette and long sleeves of muslin, but are not considered to require any paletot or mantle whatever for out-walkin fine weather MEN AND THEIR FEMALE CRITICS. THE PRINCESS OF WALES. ALEXANDRA is the second child and eldest daughter of the King of Denmark and the Princess Louise of Hesse Cassell. She was lom December 1, 1844, and ma..ied March 19, 1863, to Albert Edward, second child and eldest son of Queen Victoria, of England, and Prince Albert, of Saxe Coburg Gotha, Her rank as wife of the Prince of Wales, and prospective queen of England, has placed her in a most difficult and responsible position, and she has undergone the trying ordeal in the most exemplary manner, winning the hearuest respect and She has now four children, which attachment of all classes have made her, by a species of logic not easily understood by a republican nation, very popular with the people. She is very amiable, and finds her chicfest happiness in the quiet performance of her domestic duties. The loag seclusion of Queen Victoria threw upon the Princess of Wales the pericrmance of many duties connected with state ceremor, and, despite the simplicity of her early education, she acquitted herself with a dignity and grace which showed she was possessed with the true royalty of womanhood. THERE are women of sufficient shrewdness to see that the NEVER TOO OLD TO LEARN.-Socrates, at an extremely old age, of age, thought proper to learn the Greek language. Pintorch, "AND WHEN HE SAW DEATH ACTUALLY RETREATING BEFORE HIM. THE TENSE CHORDS OF FEELING SNAPPED, AND HE FILL VOID. FAINTING ACROSS MARY'S PILLOW." GONE! wholly gone! How cold and dark, In life's contending maze to own; Feeds on itself, alone, alone! The present but a blank, and worse, The silver light of love shone through THE ELLESMERE GHOST. "I FEAR," said Mrs. Merivale, one morning, "that both of my sons have lost their hearts to their cousin, Mary Elles mer It is perfectly true," they both returned in a breath I am sorry." other," continued Gersham, failing into the solo, "to love her is a liberal education." "But you cannot both marry her." "Perhaps neither of us can," said Arnold. "It is truly a most unfortunate situation." pursued their mother, rising from the breakfast-table, and preparing to leave the room. "I would advise you to overcome your feelings in the matter. I do not wish to have a breach in my family, and you must see that if she prefers one to the other, it will place us all in exceedingly disagreeable relations. Therefore, I hope she will refuse you both." "Thanks, mother mine," said Gershan. grimly. "She might do worse, it is true." And then the family party dispersed, and Mrs. Merivale went to superintend her housekeeping, while her sons pursued their usual avocations-making love and money. Mary Ellesmere was one of those white beauties, sometimes called the Ellesmere Ghost; for, without ever having known a moment's ill-health, she possessed that moonlight sort of beauty which seems evanescent, but is, in truth, as enduring as marble -the polished, radiating tints of precious spar. People said that it was as impossible for her to blush as it would have been for the statue in her father's hall; but from the dark depths of those hazel eyes, Gersham Merivale sometimes fancied he had seen a spark rise up and scintillate at his whispered word, and as suddenly drop back to bide itself behind the impenetrable shadows. "But, then, Arnold may have seen the same," he reasoned. As Gersham watched the graceful figure of his brother saunter down through the garden, with an acute premonition as to his destination, he almost wished that he had never seen the woman who was to cause such bitterness between them and while he was meditating on the inscrutability of Fate, which demanded. the sacrifice of a life's happiness from one or the other, Max came round with the gig, and a message arrived from Miss Elles And why?" in concerto again. "As was once said of an- mere, interrupting the train of his reflections. |