Lady's Meguime

DESCRIPTION OF FOUR-PAGE ENGRAVING.

FIG. 1.-Promenade toilet. Round skirt of emerald-green silk poplin, with broad black stripes, and trimmed with plaitings of black velvet upon alternate stripes. A wider ruching borders the plain green tunic. Velvet bands and bows confine the openings at the sides. This skirt is rounded in front and square at the back. Black velvet basquine. The open corsage has revers of silk to match the skirt, and is edged with narrow black lace. Deeper lace, with plaited headings, trim the round basque and open sleeves. The close poplin sleeves have velvet cuffs. Chemisette and undersleeves of cambric and lace. Green silk cravat and bow. Round hat of green gros grains, trimmed with green velvet and black feathers.

No. 6.

Fig. 2.-Train dress of Havana-colored poult-de-soie. The deep flounce is scalloped and pinked-out. The heading and tabs are composed of black satin ruchings, framed in point de Bruges. Each tab is fastened down by a satin bow. The rounded tunic opens in front, and is turned back and draped beneath the large bow of the satin ceinture, the long ends of which pass below this skirt. Lace edges the satin ruching. Ruchings, lace, and bows trim the heart-shaped corsage and confine the large, pinked-out sleeves. Chemisette and undersleeves of point de Bruges. Coiffure of crimson roses and foliage.

Fig. 3.-Robe de chambre of white poplin, striped with blue. The upper part of the corsage, the shaped plastron, and the deep flounce, are all of blue silk, with bias borders. The lower sleeves fit closely; the others are large, lined with silk. and

caught up at the inner sides by ornaments of blue silk passementerie. Larger ornaments are placed upon the shoulders, down the front, and in the inverted points of the flounce; they also finish the ends of the silk cord which confines the robe. Lace collar and undersleeves. White lace cap, with blue bow and floating ends.

Fig. 4. Promenade toilet. Round skirt of silver-gray silk. The puffed border and plaited flounces, with puffed headings, are all of light-green silk. Close corsage. The skirt forms a full pouf and two large points, bordered with broad bands of black velvet. Similar bands finish the large flowing sleeves and trim the corsage en Pompadour. Green silk buttons. Lace collar and undersleeves. Velvet ceinture. Pouf bonnet of green silk, with black velvet flowers.

and a garland of orange flowers. Tunic of white silk gauze, scalloped at the edge, and bordered with lace, headed by two satin cross-bands. The tunic is looped up at the sides with a tuft of orange blossoms and white satin loops and ends. Low square bodice and basque. Full, short sleeves, trimmed with a cross-band of satin and with lace.

Fig. 13.-Ball costume. Train dress of white poult-de-soie. The corsage is low and square. A plastron of turquoise-blue velvet covers the front and falls in a slightly rounded basque. The plastron at the back terminates at the waist, where it is met by a large velvet bow with rounded ends. Velvet epaulets. The full sleeves are confined by narrow bias bands, and are finished by double falls of rich white lace. Broad tands trim the front of the skirt and outline the train-tunic. Lace of graduating width edges all of these bauds, and the bow frames the plastrons and finishes the epaulets. Renaissance chemisette of

Fig. 5.-Dress of fawn-colored silk, with darker stripes. The very deep flounce of the darker shade is surmounted by two erect flutings to match. Fluted flounces trim the rounded tab-white gaze-de-soie. It is half high at the back, low and square lier and square tunic of the overskirt. Flutings and ruffles trim the casaque and large sleeves. Embroidered chemisette and undersleeves. Hat of English straw, with a pouf and floating ends of dark silk.

Fig. 6.-Toilet of bronze-green poult-de-soie. The train skirt has two gathered flounces; these are bound with rouleaux of black silk and are put on with headings. The tunic is rounded in front. At the back it forms two long ends, which are loosely knotted. It is flounced. The close corsage has a shaped basque. The sleeves are straight. All are trimmed with ruchings of green silk, bound with black. Embroidered collar and undersleeves. Bonnet of black silk, ornamented with clusters of green leaves, intermingled with golden berries. Fig. 7.-Morning costume of Tussore foulard. Demi-train skirt, bordered with a deep flounce, plaited à la Russe, and sewn with a heading and cross-band. Black velvet bows decorate the front breadth of the skirt. The deep casaque is made with a false waistcoat that fastens with velvet buttons. Both it and the casaque are bordered with frill, headed by a cross-band. There are two pairs of sleeves, one close to the wrist, and outer ones that are square and slashed up to the elbow.

Fig. 8.-Dress of blue merino. The round skirt has a very deep plaited flounce, which is divided near the top by a band of black velvet. The full overskirt has a single band, and is draped at the sides. The close-fitting basquine and straight sleeves are trimmed with plaitings and bands. Velvet buttons fasten the fronts. Lace collar and undersleeves. Black velvet hat, trimmed with roses and leaves. At the back is a large bow of blue silk, with fringed ends.

Fig. 9.-Toilet of silver-gray silk. The plaited flounce of the long gored skirt is deeply hollowed-out at the sides. It is headed by a guipure insertion, framed in wide and narrow lace. The second and third flounces are plaited, and follow the rounded outlines. They are edged with narrow lace, and have lace headings. The basque of the close casaque is pointed both at the back and front, and is bordered with guipure. This trimming also forms the bretelles and finishes the cuffs of the straight sleeves. Lace collar and undersleeves.

in front, and is gathered in by a narrow blue ribbon. Diamond ornaments. Coiffure of velvet and diamonds.

Fig. 14.-Dress of dove-gray silk. The long full skirt has a deep flounce which is gathered and headed by a broad bias band with a narrow box-plaiting at the upper edge. The open tunic is edged with a deep tassel-fringe to match, and is draped at each side by gray silk cords with heavy tassels. Revers of blue silk trim the front of the close corsage. Fringe heads the straight sleeves and finishes the large cuffs; it also edges the scalloped basque. The large bow at the back has fringed ends. Embroidered collar and undersleeves. Cap of white lace and blue satin ribbon.

Fig. 15.-Promenade costume of purple velvet. The round gored skirt is trimmed with three rouleaux of gold-colored satin. These border it and are carried up the sides, where they are separated by a row of large gold-colored buttons. The upper skirt is similarly bordered, and is lifted at each side to form the bouffant. The close-fitting casaque has revers and straight sleeves. It is trimmed with rouleaux and deep purple-and-gold silk fringe. The ceinture is bound with satin, and fastens at the side beneath a bow to match. Ruffled collar and undersleeves of guipure de Venise. Black velvet hat, with white curling feather.

Fig. 16.-Toilet of light-green faille silk. The long lower skirt has a very deep gathered flounce, headed by a double ruching and bias band of white silk. The second skirt is deeper in front than at the back. It forms a rounded tablier and full pouf, and is trimmed with fluted flounces, bias bands and large buttons, all of white silk. The same trimming is repeated, en petit, upon the close-fitting basquine and straight sleeves. This skirt simulates rounded vest-fronts and square coat-basques. Green ceinture and bow. Embroidered collar and undersleeves. Coiffure of white and black lace, ornamented with camelias and foliage.

Fig. 17.-Bridal toilet. Long train skirt of white faille, ornamented with cross-bands of satin, which are arranged diagonally, and decorated at the top with sprays of orange blossoms. Tunic to match, forming tablier in front and double pouf at the back. A narrow flounce separates the two poufs, and another flounce, which is deeper in the centre of the back than at the sides, borders the tunic. High bodice, opening heart-shaped in front. The basque is short at the back, descends in a point at the sides, and ascends in front to produce the same effect as at the back; it is edged with a frill sewn on with a cross-band of satin. Long pagoda sleeves. Wreath of orange blossoms, and long tulle vail.

Fig. 10.-Train dress of rose-colored silk. The bias flounce is bordered by three rouleaux of a darker shade. The upper edge of the flounce is scalloped and bound with the contrasting shade, and trimmed with four rouleaux. Four other scalloped ruffles rise above this heading. The basquine opens in front. The skirt is rounded and the sleeves are flowing. It is entirely bordered by a rich passementerie trimming to match the rouleaux. A deep floss-fringe finishes the basque and sleeves. Lace chemisette and undersleeves. Coiffure of roses and foliage. Fig. 18.-Train skirt of violet poult-de-soie, trimmed at the Fig. 11.-Bridal toilet. The train skirt of white poult-de-back with three gathered flounces, which terminate at each side soie, trimmed with tassel-fringe, the heading of which is woven to imitate guipure. High bodice, with basque, fastened at the throat with a gimp agraffe, terminating with three tassels. The basque is edged with fringe; it is pointed both at the back and front, and hollowed out at the sides. It forms two box-plaits in the centre of the back, where it is ornamented with tasselfringe. Pagoda sleeves, bordered with fringe. Lace collar and sleeves. Orange flowers in the hair. Brussels net vail.

Fig. 12.-Evening toilet for a bride. Train skirt of white satin, with a lace flounce, headed by narrow crête of the same.

with three loops of violet velvet. These flounces form a sort of wide festoon, while those on the front breadth are sewn on in a straight line, with a heading fastened down with a row of violet velvet. Tunic to match, open in front and forming two points; at the back it is rounded and slightly gathered to make it set out full. A tuft of long velvet loops separates this pouf from the front. The bodice is high at the back, open in front, and trimmed with square revers of velvet. Pagoda sleeves. Black lace bonnet, ornamented with violet feathers.

Fig. 19.-Dress of toile écrue, with scarlet braid trimmings.

The round skirt is bordered with a deep
gathered flounce, which is ornamented with
three rows of scarlet braid. The heading is
a ruche, which describes deep scallops, in each
of which there is a decoration of braid and
cerise guipure; this takes the form of a figure
8, and at the lower point of each figure a
small red ball is attached. Tunic to corre-
spond. Oriental pelerine, open in front, with
revers, cut up at the back and bordered all
round with a ruche and fringe. The material
of the pelerine is silk, with alternate scarlet
and écrue stripes.

Fig. 20.-Dinner dress of rose-colored silk.
The skirt is trimmed with a deep flounce, ter-
minating with a quilling, which is sewn on
with a row of black ribbon velvet. This is
headed with three rows of black velvet and
three of quillings. The tunic is open in front,
rounded at the sides, and forms a pouf at the
back, which is considerably longer than the
sides. High bodice with basques; the front
is cut to simulate a low pointed waistcoat;
the trimmings are black velvet bows and
lines, and white quillings; the sleeves are
ornamented to correspond.

Fig. 21.--Round blue silk skirt, bordered with a very deep box-plaited flounce; the heading consists of a frill, sewn on with a row of black velvet, and arranged in festoons; above this are four very small flounces, headed with velvet. Black faille casaque, close-fitting to the figure, the five basques being turned back with revers at each angle; these revers are lined with blue silk; a long knotted fringe edges the basque. The revers on the bodice are lined with blue silk, likewise the mousquetaire cuffs; these are decorated with fringe. Cambric chemisette and undersleeves.

Fig. 22.-Tussore foulard dress. Round skirt, with deep flounce, plaited à la Russe, the heading to which is sewn down with a row of black velvet. This heading describes wide festoons-five on the skirt-and these are indicated with black velvet bows. Tunic to match; the rounded ends have the same dimensions as the undulations on the skirt. It is open to the back of the skirt at the back, where it describes double revers folds. Casaque with long postillon basque at the back, and long waistcoat points in front. Pagoda sleeves. Velvet heads all the plaited ruffles, and forms the bows at the shoulders. Velvet buttons. Black silk bonnet, trimmed with velvet ribbon and foliage.

Fig. 23. Visiting toilet of green satin Turc. The deep gathered flounce is surmounted by two broad bands of a darker shade of velvet. Three bands cross the front, and are ornamented with bows of the same. Velvet buttons fasten the close corsage. Black lace trims the flowing sleeves. The large bouffant is of black satin, framed in black lace, with a very full double heading. The black satin drapery of the corsage is also bordered with lace, and caught at the waist by a very large loop-rosette of green satin ribbon with long floating ends. White lace collar and undersleeves. Medina Cœli bonnet of black satin and lace, with bows and ends of green satin ribbon.

Fig. 24.-Promenade costume. Purple satin petticoat with a deep gathered flounce, headed by three ruffles and a puff. Black satin bas

BONNETS. FROM MADAME MORRISSON'S, NO. 6 RUE DE LA MICHODIERE, PARIS.-PAGE 402.