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me, if I would do him the honour to take them, a few of his printed notices, done in print for the English; they were in English, and written by himself. He then presented me with about a dozen slips of small printed advertisements in commendation of his hotel, saying, as he did so, "Be so good as to take them to England; they will make laugh your friends in that country; and recommend your Tories and Whigs families and acquaintances coming this ways to Aix or Cologne-recommend them all to the landlord of Bergheim. Mr. Murray's Handbook, at p. 222., gives me very goot character; says I speak English tongue, as you hear I do, quite well. Mr. Murray's book very goot one, but not liked by many of the couriers and innkeepers on the road, but a very goot book for all that, and a very sensible one, and gives me great recommendation, at p. 222., in every copy I have seen."

The horses having ended their meal, we rose to depart, bidding a cordial farewell to our good-humoured host of the Rothe Haus; he again and again begging me to make all my

friends know him in England; and I promising, at his request, to circulate as widely as I could the little paper which was designed to render propitious both Whigs and Tories. Here, then, I keep my word, as to insert the same in these pages may, in the end, perhaps, be the most extensive mode of circulation within my power.

"COMFORTABLE INN AT BERGHEIM,

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"Fifteen miles from Cologn and thirty-one from Aix-la-Chapelle, recommended at p. 222. in Murray's Hand-book : London, 1838; at p. 70. in Chambers's Tour in Holland, the Countries on the Rhine and Belgium: Edinburgh, 1839,' and in others.

"The proprietor of the RED HOUSE, enlarged by an additional house, at BERGHEIM (Tiberiacum), a small place of eighty houses in a wide street, on the road from Juliers to Cologn, pleasantly situated in the middle of the town, opposite the post-office and post-house, has the honour of recommending himself to travellers. The Galignani's Messenger, John Bull, and other newspapers, are taken in. Having excellent preserves of game in the neighbourhood, he is happy to inform travellers, that he can provide them with good sport in wild boar, deer and hare hunting, and wild duck and partridge shooting. Horses and carriages of all descriptions supplied for excursions in the neighbourhood. As stage coaches are constantly passing the hotel, the proprietor is enabled to serve private families and travellers with excellent dinners, &c. within ten minutes after their arrival. Having a very good

reputation for his wines, it happens often, that families give him an order, which is executed by his brother Hermann Maria, wine merchant at Cologn, Trankgasse, Nro. 4. near the Cathedral (Contore and Magazins below this celebrated church). Since the introduction of steamboats on the Rhine, families do not sleep here so often as they did before, but both Tories and Whigs, passing the night at Bergheim, express their complete satisfaction with the rooms and beds.

"A. J. HONS."

I will not add more to this letter than to

assure you I am,

My dear Brother,

Always affectionately yours,

ANNA ELIZA BRAY.

LETTER XXXIII.

TO A. J. KEMPE, ESQ., F.S.A.

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Arrival at Aix-la-Chapelle. The Grand MoSunday. Church. Rath Haus. ——

narch. Passport.

Grand Popish Ceremony and Procession. The Cathedral. Treasury of Relics. Priests and Curiosities.

Albert Durer. ·

Relics and Jewels — curious, ancient, and beautiful. Charlemagne. The City and its Antiquities.

-

My dear Brother,

WE arrived at Aix-la-Chapelle rather late in the evening. It was quite dark, and we drove forthwith to the Grand Monarch, an immense hotel, in the centre of the town. A band of music was playing in the most delightful manner, in the salon, to some persons who were at supper. We could find no vacant chamber, excepting one, to which we had to climb by many flights of stairs, and there we took up our quarters.

We soon dismissed our driver, after giving

him a fee for himself, in addition to the stipulated payment, because he had behaved so civilly and attentively all the way; and we wholly acquitted him of any share in the trick which had been practised by his masters.

The next day, being Sunday, we staid within our chamber all the morning, and performed our church service together. An admirable little volume that I had at hand (for we did not unpack the trunks), by the great and good Bishop Andrews, affording us, when read aloud, as excellent instruction as any more regular

sermon.

This ended, as we were so pressed for time that we should be obliged to leave Aix on the following morning, we sallied forth on a most important mission to do what we were in

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formed was absolutely necessary, or we should be stopped in Belgium -namely, to present ourselves and our passport at the Rath Haus, before a certain hour, when it closed for the day.

The Rath Haus it situated in the marketplace; it is a large old structure. The façade,

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