CHAPTER XIX. Braiding and Appliqué. "Show me the piece of needlework you wrought." RAIDING, although the most simple kind of ornamental needlework, is nevertheless capable of great beauty and perfection.-The costly works in gold and silver, executed by the Turks and the inhabitants of the Greek islands, are princi pally of this description. Braid may be worked upon velvet, cloth, satin, silk, or leather: either is equally suitable, according, as it may be adapted to the article the work is designed for; but braiding on velvet intermixed with gold, is the most elegant and recherché. The pattern (the lines of which should be kept curved as much as possible), must be drawn on the material. The principal art in working, consists in keeping the braid or cord exactly in a line with the drawing, taking care that the various scrolls are well rounded and even, and the corners sharply turned. Much of the beauty of the work depends on making the sharp turns flat and pointed, which must be done by properly sewing the braid at their extreme points; the stitches should be regular, and of an equal length. Every separate piece of braid or cord must be commenced and finished, by passing its end through, and under the material, with a braid needle. Where gold cord is intended to be sewn on by the side of the braid, the line of the drawing should be carefully preserved above that of the braid; and care must always be taken to keep the braid, in every part, either within or without the line of the pattern, which, if not attended to, will completely destroy the effect of the design. Groups of flowers are sometimes worked in different coloured braids; but this description of work is very tedious, and unless beautifully arranged, it has a common appearance; common appearance; nevertheless most beautiful specimens are occasionally to be seen. The prettiest kind of braiding is that where a silk braid is accompanied, on one or both sides, with a fine gold cord,—a species of work adapted for bags, folios, sachets, boxes, note cases, &c. By a skilful admixture of different coloured braids with gold braid and gold cord, a splendid effect may be produced. union cord, in a vermicelli pattern, may be tastefully introduced; and where braid alone is used, it can be varied by the addition of épiné with gold passing, or silk. Gold or It is preferable to use the silk of the braid itself for sewing it on, as, from its thus matching exactly in colour, the stitches cannot so well be detected. This may be done by cutting off a piece of braid the length of a needleful of silk, and drawing out each thread as required. All braid work, except that on velvet, when finished, should be passed under a roller, the face of the work being covered with tissue paper: this flattens the braid, and adds much to the beauty of its appearance. APPLIQUÉ is the laying of one material over another, as cloth, for instance, where one or more pieces of different shapes and colours, in the form of flowers or other figures, are placed on the surface of another piece which forms the ground, and are afterwards secured at their edges with braids or cord. This style of work has been practised in some instances with so much taste and ingenuity, that it has rivalled embroidery, and for many Turkish designs seems almost preferable to any other kind. Appliqué may be composed of pieces of cloth, velvet, satin, silk, or leather, cut into the shape of flowers, scrolls, or other designs. The pattern should be drawn upon the material intended for the appliqué, and a corresponding one upon that forming the ground, which latter may also consist of either of the above materials. If velvet, satin, or silk, be used, it will be necessary to have a thin paper pasted at the back, before the appliqué is cut out, which renders them firmer, and prevents their unraveling. These pieces are to be carefully tacked down on the material, and the edges worked with braid or cord, the colours of which may be varied according to taste; but where flowers are intended to be represented, a braid, the colour of the flower or leaf, is to be preferred. The leaves may be veined with braid or cord, or with twisted silk; and the centres of some flowers may be worked in French knots. (See page 122.) Vine leaves are peculiarly adapted to this description of work, the tendrils of which may be formed of union cord. For bags and folios, a very pretty kind of appliqué may be made, by using various coloured silks on a ground of cachemir or merino. Velvet appliqué, edged with gold cord, on satin, or velvet, is also suitable for bags, slippers, sachets, caps, pillows, etc. Satin, edged with chenille, is sometimes used; as also morocco leather, or kid, stamped with designs in gold when placed on satin, velvet, or cloth, the latter should be edged with gold braid or cord, and may be further enriched. by the margin of the leather being cut into scallops or vandykes, and the gold cord turned into a circle at each point. For table-cover borders, ottomans, and other large pieces of work, a set pattern may be used with good effect, when embroidery can be introduced into some of the compartments, giving it a very rich and Persian-like ap pearance. A beautiful description of appliqué, combined with embroidery, was much in vogue a few years since, particularly for handscreens, where the flowers and leaves were formed of velvet, and the stalks embroidered with gold bullion. Some of these "fleurs de fantaisie" were made flat, others were raised by numerous small velvet leaves, carefully laid one partly over the other, and tacked down with a fine silk; these leaves (lames de velours) required to be accurately cut with a steel punch. CHAPTER XX. Bead Work. "With stones embroider'd, of a wondrous mass; DRAYTON. HE Germans excel in all kinds of bead work, some of which are extremely beautiful; they are principally applicable to small articles, such as folios, presse-papiers, card and cigar cases. Purses and bags are made of beads, but their weight renders them sometimes objectionable. The paucity of colours in which glass beads can be obtained, limits this description of work to arabesque, gem, and scroll patterns, or for working flowers in neutral tints other designs, such as flowers and figures, are sometimes executed, but, from the want of the proper shades, they are extremely defective. The opaque |