is the tall tower, a seamark, of St. Mary Church; near it is found Lichen lentigerus, and on Dungeon Cliff Lithospermum purpureo-cæruleum.

Upon the land side of Torquay is the mother-church (Perpendicular) of Tor Mohun (J. H. Harris, P.C.); besides some Jacobean monuments of the Carey family, it contains an effigy in armour of Ridgway, father of the first Earl of Londonderry, and an octagonal Perpendicular font. On the hill (half-a-mile), by the Newton Abbot road, is the ruined chapel of St. Michael. Tor Abbey, the seat of the Careys, was the Premonstratensian Abbey of St. Saviour, founded by William Bruére in 1196. The ruins of the minster are on the north side of the house: the present chapel was the Refectory which, like the gateway, is Decorated; the grange barn likewise remains. About 4 miles distant, approached through the little village of Cockington (2 miles), the church of which contains an octagonal Perpendicular font, are the ruins of Compton Castle, of the 14th century, and formerly a seat of the Poles: the north front tower-gateway and part of the chapel remain. The beach, stretching from Tor Abbey and Livermead to Paignton, is divided by low steep cliffs of red conglomerate, or new red sandstone, worn by the tide into fantastic shapes and caves, like the temples of Ellora, with recess behind recess, and dark vaults supported upon columns, coloured by the hand of nature. Here will be found Anthea cereus, pholas dactylus, P. parva, doris pilosa, asterrina gibbosa and trochus ziziphinus; and echinus miliaris, which the children call "mermaiden's head." Here Dr. Turton, Col. Montagnaud, Mrs. Griffith, Gaertner, Gosse, and Dillwyn prosecuted their curious researches.

POPULATION OF DEVONSHIRE WATERING-PLACES. 445

The following Table will show the changes in the statistics of the several places on the Coast of North as well as South Devon, effected within the present century.

PAIGNTON,

Three miles from Torquay southward, possesses a fine sandy beach-broad, firm, and smooth for bathers; but the tract is subject, during easterly winds, to the inconvenience of being encumbered with masses of sea-weed and drift-wood. The place, however, is free from the daily toll of the passing-bell of Torquay, the sad knell of those who have come thither to die of decline. Most melancholy it is in church or street constantly to meet the sight of that terrible decay, the slow wasting, the cheek with its exquisite flush growing hollow; the hand pale, feverish, and transparently thin; and the keen, brilliantly star-like light of the eyes, so earnest and so sad. All the loveliness of nature cannot compensate for this. The pier was built in 1838. The church of St. John (Perpendicular) (R. Gee, V.) is cruciform; it has a Norman west door, and a fine stone pulpit on the north side. It likewise contains a superb stone screen, Perpendicular, with three arches, parting off the south aisle. Against it are placed the effigies of Sir J. and Lady Kirkham, canopied statues on the tomb, and angels bearing shields in the pinnacles under it, rich and beautiful. There are some walls and a tower of the palace in which stout Miles Coverdale lived. The pier was built in 1838, and cider is exported in large quantities. The steps and shaft of a churchyard cross stand in the garth. Euphorbia peplis is found in the lanes. A pleasant walk of five miles leads to Berry Pomeroy, famous for St. Mary's church (the living of Prince, author of the "Worthies of Devon"), in which are effigies of Lord Edward Seymour, who died 1593, and of Sir Edward Seymour, with other monuments of the same family from the reign of Elizabeth to that of William III. The church contains a good parclose and roodloft. The Castle, begirt by a wood and seated on a perpendicular rock (a high ridge, partly covered with oak), is best seen from the

northern bank of the little glen through which a rivulet, a branch of the Dart, frets its way. The ivy-mantled walls, the great gateway, the round tower of St. Margaret, the south Tudor front, built by the Protector Somerset, and part of a Jacobean court of the period of Charles I., are full of rents, unroofed and open. This is all that survives of a once vast and sumptuous structure, originally built by a Norman knight, Ralph de Pomeroy, and held by his descendants, till Sir Thomas buckled on his sword in the rising of Devon, and his fair castle passed to the grasping Somerset. A fantastic legend is attached to the fortunes of the family; which, according to the tradition, depended on the safe keeping of a mysterious berry given to Audomar de Pomeroy by Ella, mother of Rollo, the night before he sailed with Duke William from Normandy. The last of the name, Constance, was compelled to surrender it to Henry VIII.; from him it passed to the Protector, Somerset ; and, finally, to Edward VI. On the night the boy-king died, an ancient form appeared before the duchess in this castle, and pronouncing its doom accomplished, buried the kernel in the ground, from which sprang a noble beech-tree, still pointed out. It is, perhaps, needless to say that Berry (Bury) means a fortified place. From the east, or St. Margaret's tower, it is said, the two sons of Henry Pomeroy, who murdered the king's herald, and fled to St. Michael's Mount, leaped on horseback into the glen rather than surrender the castle. It was last inhabited in the reign of James II. Tradition says that the lightning fired it shortly afterwards; trees and trailing plants conceal the rents, and fill the courts now voiceless and deserted.

"It stood embosomed in a happy valley,

Crowned by high woodlands, where the druid oak
Stood, like Caractacus in act to rally

His host, with broad arms 'gainst the thunderstroke;
And from beneath his boughs were seen to sally
The dappled foresters; as day awoke,

The branching stag swept down with all his herd
To quaff a brook which murmured like a bird,"

Polypodium laceratum is found here.

TOTNESS (the Look-out Headland) is two miles distant: it was the birthplace of the learned Kennicott, 1718; of Edward Lye, the Saxon scholar, 1704; and of Brockledon, the artist. The town's folk aver that Brutus of Troy, when he arrived at this spot, said,

"Here I sit and here I rest,

And this town shall be called Totness."

Here, on Sunday, Oct. 21, 1638, occurred that terrible storm, of which, credulous as the men of his diocese, Bishop Hall said, "It was plainly wrought by a stronger hand than Nature's." The town was occupied alternately by the Cavaliers and Goring's Roundheads; but it is most noted for its frantic devotion to the Prince of Orange, on whose arrival it offered 4s. in the pound land tax, and the remaining 16s. if that saturnine foreigner required it. The bridge, built 1825, cost 12,000l. The south gate and part of the town walls remain. The old ivied Norman keep of the castle is circular, and crowns a hill. St. Mary's church, Perpendicular, was built of red sandstone by Bishop Lacy in 1432; it contains a fine stone screen and pulpit. Dogs are ingeniously trained here to drive back the salmonpeel into the fishermen's nets. The town gave the title of Earl, 7th Feb. 1626, to George, Lord Carew: it became extinct with his death. About 1 miles distant, near the Ashburton Road, is the grand ruin of Dartington House. The great hall, roofless, measures 69 ft. by 38 ft. and was once 50 ft. in height; it has a capacious fireplace of stone, and a porch; the kitchen and outbuildings remain. Upon the front of the mansion, which is of the time of Richard II., are the arms of Holland, Duke of Exeter: the outer quadrangle 245 ft. by 157 ft., with the tower-gate, is nearly complete; but the west wall of the inner court alone remains, The church of St. Mary has some good stained glass, a Tudor pulpit and rich oak carving and screen-work; there is the effigy of a lady of the thirteenth century.

A boat daily makes the passage between Totness and