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of the mode in which he tried to amuse himself in that town until the wind got into a better humour for the prosecution of the voyage. At length, after many days' detention, they set sail; again the wind beat them, and forced them to anchor; again the captain tacked about and tried to coax the vessel onward; until at length, on the 26th of the month, they anchored in Torbay. Here they remained many days, utterly unable to stir farther westward; so they employed themselves in sending for cider and other provisions from the shore, and making short land excursions. Fielding's journal is deficient in dates. from that period; so that it is somewhat difficult to tell how many days afterwards they finally set sail from the coast towards Lisbon; but we know, at all events, that from the day when the sick man went aboard the ship till the ship anchored at Torbay, a period of thirty days elapsed,-sufficient now-a-days to bring the Overland mail from Bombay to London! Can contrast be stronger?

Ramsgate, the easternmost of the south ports of England, has been, like its neighbour Margate, a favourite resort of pleasure-seekers since the establishment of steam navigation; but in a commercial point of view it is much more important than Margate, principally on account of its fine harbour. The steam trip from London to Ramsgate is a daily one; but it has never approached in magnitude the steaming from places less distant from the metropolis. Railways here furnish an instance of fellowship with steamers. Before the establishment of any railways in Kent, Ramsgate kept up a communication with Ostend and other ports, for the conveyance of passengers; but when the South-Eastern Railway reached Dover, steampackets were placed upon an efficient footing to run from Dover to Ostend, to the detriment of Ramsgate. When, however, the same railway company extended their Canterbury branch to Ramsgate, a new phase in the traffic presented itself; the steam-boat company, in connexion with the railway company, removed their Ostend steamers from Dover, and placed them on the Ramsgate station; and now a well conducted competition is maintained from Dover, and from Ramsgate, to Ostend, in which every effort is made to bring steaming up to its highest pitch of efficiency.

Dover and Folkstone both exhibit the remarkable influence of railways upon steamers, which Ramsgate exemplifies in a smaller degree. Dover enjoys the advantage of being the great port for continental embarkation, on account of its vicinity to the coast of France; and circumstances seemed to place the town above all reach of competition. But the inhabitants have had to open their eyes to a fact which railways have disclosed to them-the rise of Folkstone from a humble fishing village to an important steam-boat station. When the South-Eastern Company found, some years back, that there was likely to be some difficulty in placing an efficient steam-transit in connexion with a railway at Dover; they bought up Folkstone harbour, cleared it out, built a pier, made

a first-class station and refreshment room, procured steamers, and astonished the Dover people by establishing a daily steam-conveyance from Folkstone to Boulogne and back. It would be difficult to estimate the importance of this step. It made the Railway Company to a certain degree independent of Dover; while it gave the inhabitants of that town a strong inducement to do their best to retain their own trade, by accelerating the boats, lowering the fees of embarkation, and removing a few of those annoyances which no one experiences so largely as a traveller.

We may run rapidly along the coast from Folkstone to Portsmouth, without stopping long at its several ports; for they are not connected much with passengervoyaging. Rye, poor old Rye, has become so much choked up with sea-sand, that the harbour hardly knows itself. Hastings, though a fine watering-place, has not much sea-traffic, except for goods and fish: its steaming days have yet to begin. Brighton has such shallow water, that she has had to ask her sister Shoreham to aid in establishing a steam-transit to Dieppe.

The vicinage of the Isle of Wight to Portsmouth, and the beauty of the island as a place of residence, have always maintained considerable intercourse between the two; which intercourse used formerly to be kept up by row-boats and small sailing-boats. When steam-boats became established, there could scarcely be any other result than that the transit should be wholly maintained by such means. At all hours of the day are the little steamers passing and repassing; and the Isle has become almost as a suburb of London.

But Southampton is, perhaps, one of the most interesting of our steam-ship stations, on account of its connexion with the Overland and the West India routes. Until a period comparatively recent, Southampton was merely a pleasure town, which, in relation to commerce, could not venture to hold up its head in the presence of its big neighbour Portsmouth. It has now become a busy sea-port.

The history of the East India Mail is an interesting one. The old sailing route round the Cape of Good Hope will probably long remain the only one for heavy merchandise traffic; because the expense of transporting such commodities over the Isthmus of Suez would wholly outweigh any advantages to be derived from economy of time. It is only in respect to passengers, mails, and light luggage, that the overland route has risen into importance. When steam transit became established on a sufficiently firm basis, it was soon ascertained experimentally that a steamer could make the passage safely round the Cape of Good Hope, by the same route as the sailing ships. But the Cape route still remains, in effect, a sailing route; and it is to the Mediterranean route that we must look for the development of steam agency. About fifteen years ago, it was a disputed point whether a route might efficiently be opened by way of the Euphrates to the Persian Gulf, or by way of Egypt to the Red Sea :

and Captain Chesney was despatched to examine the former. The result has been that the Euphrates route is for the present, at all events, abandoned, and the Red Sea route established. Steamers were despatched to and fro several times between Suez and Bombay, to try how far the monsoons were likely to effect the certainty and rapidity of the passage; and while these points were under trial, the Peninsular and Oriental Company were consolidating a plan for regular steam communication between England and the Mediterranean, and the French government improved their steam-boat conveyance from Marseilles to Malta. By degrees, too, the extraordinary ruler of Egypt, Mehemet Ali, had sagacity enough to enter into the plan, and offer all the aid in his power to the establishment of a safe mode of transit over the sandy tract of land which intervenes between the Nile and the Red Sea at Suez. There were thus combined the English government, the French government, the Egyptian government, the East India Company, the Peninsular and Oriental Steam Navigation Company, and-perhaps the most energetic of all-Lieutenant Waghorn, who first started this great plan, and who has pursued it with untiring energy in the face of innumerable obstacles. All were working towards the attainment of the same object.

This Mediterranean route is of two kinds-the rapid route for the mail, and slower but still swift route for passengers by the steam-boat. The first portion of the route is from India-say by Bombay-across the Indian ocean, and up the Red Sea to Suez: this occupies somewhere about fifteen days, a little more or less. Then there is the transit over the Isthmus of Suez from that town to Cairo, and from Cairo to Alexandria; together about three days. Then comes the steam conveyance to Malta: about six days' passage. At Malta the transit divides itself into two parts-the more swift, and the less swift. The former steams it from Malta to Marseilles in four days; the diligence, or post, or railway, or all combined, from Marseilles to Calais or Dover; and then steam or rail to London. This is the "overland" passage for expresses, letters, and newspapers, which, according to present arrangements, occupies about thirty days to reach from Bombay to London. When the French railways are completed, it will be much shortened. The expresses and the mail having left Malta by steamer for Marseilles, the generality of the passengers proceed onward by sea: the steam-boats belonging to the Peninsular and Oriental Company, bring their passengers, call at Gibraltar on their way, and land at Southampton, four or five days after the expresses had reached England.

It is beyond all question that steam-boats have been the great engine in the establishment of this magnificent system; and Southampton-once merely a pleasure town-has the honour of showing what can be done in despatching and affording accommodation to such steamers. How accurately and punctually all the arrangements are planned; and how utterly impossible

would it have been to organize such a system in the days of sailing vessels! On the 3rd and the 20th of every month, at a fixed hour, a steamer leaves Southampton for Gibraltar and Malta, and reckons so exactly on the time of reaching the last-named port, that overland travellers, starting from London four or five days later, and, proceeding via Paris and Marseilles, count with the utmost confidence on reaching the steamers, at Malta, just ready to receive them, and to carry them to Alexandria.

This Mediterranean trade is by no means the only one which steam-transit has established at Southampton. Besides the traffic which has Malta for its centre, and which branches from thence to Constantinople and the Black Sea towards the north-east, and towards Alexandria and the India route on the southeast, many of the Southampton steamers do not enter the Mediterranean at all, or only just touch it at Gibraltar. Three times in the month there is steamtransit to Vigo, Oporto, Lisbon, Cadiz, and Gibraltar. The Voyage to Lisbon' in 1847 is performed in about the same time which Fielding spent at an alehouse in Ryde, waiting till the wind blew in the right direction! The steam-transit from Southampton to Havre, now that the Rouen and Havre Railway is finished and opened, will become more and more important. The passage from Southampton to the Channel Islands, Jersey and Guernsey, has also become a regular feature in steam conveyance from this port.

But there is one great feature of Southamptonsteaming yet to notice: one which is hardly of less importance, in a political and social point of view, than the Alexandria passage,-this is the West India Mail. The change here effected has been very remarkable. The old West India sailing-packets, effective though they were when compared with others of their class, often presented a dreary prospect to the passenger for the length of time he was destined to remain on board. But now, with the well appointed fleet of steamers, the passage is most regular and convenient, and reminds one more of the punctual arrangements of the Post-office than of the ever-fluctuating nature of oceantransit. The commercial economy of this system is somewhat as follows:

On the 2nd and 17th of the month a West India mail steamer leaves Southampton, having on board. the letters and newspapers which were despatched from London the morning of those very days. In order to meet the wants of this extensive system, the steamers are nearly twenty in number, and all of a large, commodious, and highly finished kind: each one will accommodate about one hundred passengers, with a degree of ease and comfort quite unintelligible to those who only know the petty miseries of half-cargo, halfpassenger sailing vessels. In about a week the steamer runs nearly thirteen hundred miles, or not far short of two hundred miles a day, and stops at the island of Madeira, which is quite a Brighton or Hastings for wealthy invalids. Mails and some of the passengers are landed, a few fresh provisions are taken

in, and off she starts again, ploughing her way towards the West Indies. In about another fortnight she reaches Barbadoes, where she first comes in contact with the West India Islands; and, after stopping one day at that island, proceeds to Grenada, having performed more than four thousand miles of distance in twenty-three days!

of the term. There are steamers which call at Plymouth on their way from London to Cork; and there are others which ply to the Channel Islands and to Torquay; there is, too, a steam ferry across the Hamoaze, to connect the Devonshire with the Cornwall side of the river Tamar: but these comprise pretty nearly the whole of the steam-boat movements of the town. It used formerly to be an adventurous trip, to go in a sailing-boat to the rugged Eddystone rocks, there to view the sea-bound lighthouse; but many a

A highly curious and well organized system is at work between the several islands of the West Indies, so as to effect the receipt of the mails from England, the transmission of mails to England, and the main-party of pleasure, snugly ensconced in a steam-boat, tenance of post communications between one island and another, with as little delay as possible to the steamers; and for this purpose, many steamers are timing their movements so as to meet at certain points. Grenada is the 'clearing-house' of the traffic, where the various steamers meet in order to exchange mails. One branch steamer takes the route to Barbadoes, Tobago, Demerara, and Grenada; carrying both home and outward mails: another takes the Trinidad route, from and to Grenada: another takes the mail to Antigua and a number of other islands, and returns to Grenada: several other routes are taken, most of which are wholly within the circuit of the West India Islands; but one proceeds from Havanah, via the Bermudas to England, bringing all the collected mails, and reaching Southampton about the 7th of each month; while another, starting from St. Thomas's, collects the mails from all the other islands, proceeds to England, and arrives at Southampton about the 22nd of each month. Our coast voyage is absorbing pretty rapidly the space allotted to it; and we must now get round to the western ports as soon as we can.

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The pleasant, and, in many respects, important seaside towns, west of Southampton, have at present only a small interest in steam-boat matters. Lymington, Christchurch, Poole, Weymouth, Bridport, Lyme Regis, Axmouth, Sidmouth, Topsham, Exeter, Teignmouth, Torquay, Dartmouth, Kingsbridge-all intervening between Southampton and Plymouth-are gradually being brought within the embrace of the giant arms of the railway system. The broad-gauge' and the narrow-gauge' are rival suitors for the favours of those towns; and when (as will most probably be the case) a partition is made between the two, arising from the fact that neither gauge is strong enough to kill the other, then may we fairly look out for some development of that remarkable feature to which we have so often had occasion to allude, viz., the creation of steam-boat traffic by railway traffic, At present, a limited amount of sailing and boating, and a yet smaller amount of steaming, mark this diśtrict; and we must wait for the future to develope its own results.

At Plymouth we come to one of the finest of the Government arsenals; to a spot where shipping, in its larger sense, has one of its most favoured homes, and where steam vessels as well as sailing vessels are built for the Government. But Plymouth is hardly a steamboat port, in anything like an important acceptation

is frequently to be seen rounding the Breakwater, and striking boldly off to the Eddystone, counting securely on a safe return at a convenient hour on the same day. Falmouth, the last important port and harbour on the southern coast, is at present curiously circumstanced, in respect to the double battle of Steam against Sail, and Rail against Coach. In the days when Southampton was only a pleasure town, Falmouth was the great port for Atlantic-bound ships; both on account of its westerly position, and of the great facilities afforded by the harbours. As long back as the year 1688, it was made the port for the West India mailpackets, and retained its pre-eminence till the railway and the steamers brought Southampton into operation. At present, the South American mail-steamers to Rio Janeiro, Bahia, &c., start from Falmouth once a month; and, in all probability, when the broad-gauge' has stretched one of its iron arms to Falmouth (which will be in about a couple of years), we shall find that port again resuming the importance which its commanding position ought to give it.

WESTERN PORTS.

In the reign of Edward III., when Liverpool furnished' one small bark' for the defence of the kingdom, Bristol furnished twenty-four vessels; and, a few years afterwards, Bristol furnished as many ships and men, to aid in the war, as were furnished by London. Even so late as the latter part of the reign of George II., the receipt of customs at Bristol was three times as great as at Liverpool. Why, then, has it changed so much? It is true that cotton has taken up its seat in Lancashire, and thus made Liverpool a gigantic emporium for import and export trade. It is true that Yorkshire has made woollens its own, and gradually drawn them away from the Wiltshire and Gloucestershire districts, of which Bristol is the port. But something more than this must be looked for. The Bristol engineers and shipwrights have amply shown, that, so far as they are concerned, the skill is at hand to construct steamers which shall keep on a level with the spirit of the age; and so long as the memory of the Great Western' and the 'Great Britain' shall last, a debt of admiration is due to Bristol. As a coasting port, Bristol is still what it has ever been, a very important one; but, as a foreign port, it has declined. "The decline of the foreign trade of Bristol, both in imports and exports, with the increased supply coastwise, is attributed to the excess

of local taxation." (Penny Cyclopædia.) Bristol has | conveyed over to Ireland; while the morning mail, very little steam communication with foreign countries: leaving London at ten o'clock, steams from Liverpool its intercourse, in that respect, being with various ports to Dublin at seven in the evening. of our own islands. It despatches steamers to Cork and to Waterford about twice a week; to Dublin, a little less frequently; to Liverpool, weekly; to various ports in Wales, such as Cardiff, Caermarthen, Milford Haven, Newport, Swansea, Tenby, and Chepstow, pretty frequently; and to Hayle, and one or two other ports on the Devon and Cornwall side of the Channel. We have very little to check our progress towards the giant port of Liverpool. Milford Haven has been made the port for Post-office mail communication to the south of Ireland; Porth Dynlaen is about to be patronized by the Great Western Railway Company, as a rival port to Holyhead, for Dublin trade; and Holyhead, from its favourable position with respect to Ireland, is Nature's own port in the route from London to Dublin. As soon as the Chester and Holyhead Railway shall be finished, and Stephenson's marvellous Britannia Bridge' thrown across the Menai Straits, we may see new wonders.

Any attempt to give a picture of the shipping phenomena of Liverpool, in the course of a few paragraphs, will not be the object of this paper. The astounding increase in the cotton imports, in the general shipping trade, and in the customs' receipts, form large subjects in themselves, in connexion with future papers. Suffice it for us here to glance a little at the steam-system of this wonderful town, without even venturing on any description of the Clarence' Dock and the Trafalgar' Dock, the 'Victoria' Dock and the 'Prince's' Dock, the 'St. George's' Dock and the 'Canning' Dock, the 'Salt-house' Dock and the Brunswick' Dock, the 'King's' Dock and the 'Queen's' Dock-an array of commercial accommodation which has not a parallel in the world.

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The number of places to which steamers are despatched from Liverpool is immense: England, Scotland, Ireland, Wales, America-all are placed in steamboat communication with her. To Wales, for instance, there are steamers to Amlwch, to Beaumaris, to Bangor, to the Menai, to Swansea, to Carnarvon, and to Mostyn; Scotland is accommodated by steamers to Wigton, to Kirkcudbright, to Dumfries, and by the splendid steamers to Greenock and Glasgow; the Western English ports have the facilities of steam communication from Liverpool to Whitehaven, Carlisle, and Bristol; Ireland has an immense steam trade to Liverpool from Londonderry Belfast, Newry, Dundalk, Drogheda, Dublin, Kingston, Wexford, Waterford, and Cork; and North America steaming finds its most welcome haven at Liverpool. Of these routes, the Glasgow, the Dublin, and the Transatlantic, are the most important. The Glasgow packets we have already spoken of. The Dublin packets are a fine establishment, performing two journeys every day each way. The mails which leave London at nine in the evening are put aboard the mail-steamer at Liverpool at about five o'clock the next morning, and thence

Let us, however, briefly look at the Atlantic steamers -those triumphs of steam navigation: triumphs which ought to make over-hasty men of science bow their heads. Modern prophecy is unsafe. Until the year 1838 the passenger-traffic between England and America was mainly conducted from Liverpool, where Liners, as they were called, presented the very best state of things which sailing vessels have been able to put on. The Liners were well built, and provided with every accommodation which a sailing vessel could afford. One started from Liverpool to New York every week, and one from New York to Liverpool; the two crossing each other on the way. On some few occasions, when wind and weather were favourable, the passage was made from America to Liverpool in eighteen days; but the average was more, and sometimes it greatly exceeded that, especially in the outward passage, which is always slower than the homeward, and which averaged thirty-seven days.

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Yet, excellent and efficient as these Liners were, they could not repress the yearning which everywhere appears for expeditious travelling. At the same time. two companies were started to try what steam could accomplish in crossing the Atlantic. It was in vain that learned men shook their heads, and asserted that though steam navigation "might do for narrow ferries in periods of great stillness of the water, it would never be made answerable in open seas;" it was in vain that a distinguished man of science, writing in the Edinburgh Review, tried to demonstrate, that a steamer could not carry coals enough for more than two-thirds of the voyage to America. In spite of all forebodings, the Bristol merchants boldly built the 'Great Western,' while other parties fitted out the 'Sirius.' Both vessels started in the same month; the 'Sirius,' under Captain Roberts, steamed away from Cork on the 4th April, 1838; and the Great Western,' under Captain Hosken, started from Bristol on April 7th, three days afterwards. How were the inhabitants of New York astonished to see one of these fine vessels enter the harbour on the 23rd of April, in the morning, and the other one in the afternoon of the same day! The Sirius' performed the outward journey in nineteen days, and the 'Great Western' in rather under sixteen-the average of the finely-appointed 'Liners' having been thirty-seven! One of the American newspapers went almost out of its wits with joy at the splendid achievement of these steamers: "The whole city-the whole country-was crazy with astonishment, delight, enthusiasm, and high hopes! The permanent establishment of steam-ship lines between New York and England, is now placed beyond a doubt. The physical difficulty has been solved, and the vast accession of patronage, already crowding upon both these steamers, almost proves, in advance, that the trade and intercourse of the two countries will be doubled in less than five years. Eng

land and the United States are but parts of the same great empire of mind-peopled by the same great and wonderful race-talking the same language-thinking the same thoughts-and steaming on the same principle !"

The young ports of Birkenhead and Fleetwood whisper to us that, by and by, when they are a little older, they also will claim to be ranked among the important places of our western coast. As to the wonders of Birkenhead, we can by no means treat of them in a few lines. We pass at once to Fleetwood. This port, which sprang into existence from the spur given to enterprise by railway communication, belonged to Sir Hesketh Fleetwood, who, appreciating the advantageous position of the mouth of the river Wyre, resolved to build a town, quay, docks, and railway stations, and endeavour to establish a miniature Liverpool. The customs' and other government officers sanctioned the plan; capital was forthcoming; and the progress already made has been surprisingly great.

A regular system of steam transit has been established, from Fleetwood to Ardrossan, on the way to Glasgow; from Fleetwood to the Isle of Man; from Fleetwood to various ports in the north of Ireland; and from Fleetwood to some of the Lancashire and Cumberland ports.

Cumberland asks for half a dozen words, and then we have done. Already the locomotive is about to dive into the lake district from the western shore; and we may yet see Maryport, and Workington, and Whitehaven busy steam-port towns. Whitehaven has already steam communication with Liverpool and with Belfast.

And now, having carried the reader round the coast, and allowed him to stop a little while at all the chief ports, to see how the contest between the Sail and the Steamer, and the mutual impulse of the Rail and the Steamer, are going on; we may safely leave him to decide the question whether steam-boat transit is not one of the most striking features of "THE LAND WE LIVE IN."

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