INSTRUCTIONS

HOW TO TAKE THE MEASURES.

Fig.1

1

The way to take the measures when a Lady wishes to send for a body pattern of the size suited to her is as follows-First, with an ordinary inch tape, take the exact Chest measure all round the body at the most prominent part of the chest, marked 1 on the diagram, Fig. 1: then take the Waist measure marked 2: then measure the exact Length of Back from the neck to the Waist, marked 3 on the diagram. Write all these measures down, and to ensure accuracy, measure them again, and compare with the writing.

HOW TO

CHANGE THE SIZE OF OUR PATTERNS.

If a Lady possesses a good fitting body pattern, she can easily alter, to her own size, any of "DEVERE'S PARIS MODEL PATTERNS," which are all cut for 34 inches Chest measure, 24 inches Waist measure, and 14 inches Length of Waist. If a lady has not a body pattern of her own size, she can select one from Devere's Series of Patterns, which are cut for Chest measures ranging from 314 to 42; that is to say, from the most petite lady, to the tall lady of fine figure. Any size will be sent post free, for 6 stamps. If however the lady is only a size larger or smaller than 34 Chest, viz:has a Chest measure of 36 or 33, then she can alter the size of the patterr when cutting out, by the instructions given in the follow. ing diagrams :

Fig. 2

Fig. 3

TO ENLARGE A PATTERN FROM 34 INCHES CHEST MEASURE TO 36 INCHES. FIG. 2.

Add to the front edge of an inch, the same at the seam under the arm, and down the middle of back; these additions are indicated by the shaded parts. At the bottom of armhole, hollow out of an inch, indicated by the black parts.

TO DECREASE A PATTERN FROM 34 INCHES CHEST MEASURE TO 33 INCHES. FIG. 3.

Narrow the front edge of an inch, and take off the same under the arm and at the middle of back, as shown by the black parts of the pattern. At the bottom of armhole, add the of an inch indicated by the shaded portions.

THE WAY TO CUT OUT.

The best plan is to lay all the pieces composing the pattern on the material at the same time, so as to be able to judge of the most economical way of cutting out. The larger pieces should be placed on first, and the smaller pieces at the sides of them. The trimmings (if any) must not be forgotten.

The straight thread of the stuff

The straight thread of the stuff

Fig. 4. The direction in which the various pieces are laid on the material has more to do with the fit of a pattern than is generally supposed. In all close-fitting garments, the side pieces and the backs should all have the waist line in an exact line with the straight weft or woof thread of the material this will bring the side pieces and the backs on the right way of the stuff, and the side pieces will not draw or crease as they would do if they were cut in the least degree on the biais. The fronts must be laid lengthwise on the material and be perfectly straight. It is best to place the front edge at the edge of the material, and to allow enough for the turning in. For double breasted garments the middle of front must lay exactly on the warp, or lengthwise thread of the material. The same rules must be observed for all Princesse Robes and for Polonaises.

In entting out striped materials, there should be a perfect stripe down the middle of the front, and also down the middle of back when the back is made without a seam. Especial care must be taken that the stripes in the sidepieces and in the back, may exactly correspond.

In sleeves, the part above the elbow must be the straight way of the material.

When any part of a dress, such as the trimmings, &c. has to be cut on the biais, care must be taken that it is exactly on the biais, or it will drag and hang badly when made up.

In a gored skirt, the fronts of the gored pieces must always be on the straight thread; the sides which are towards the back being sloped. If possible, avoid having any seam down the middle of the back of a skirt. The allowance for the hem at the bottom must not be forgotten.

In figured or brocaded materials, all the parts of the pattern must be cut the same way of the stuff; that is, with the pattern running in the same direction. It is the same in velvets and napped matrials, all the pieces must be cut so that the pile or nap runs the same way.

Always place all the pieces of the pattern on the material, and make whatever calculations are necessary, before commencing to cut out the stuff.

DEVERE'S SERIES OF

PATTERNS FOR DRESSMAKERS AND FAMILIES. This set of patterns is divided into two parts. The first series has seven brown-paper patterns, for Children and Young Ladies, and is sold for 2s. 6d. post free. The second series has eight brown-paper patterns for Ladies from the smallest to the largest sizes, and is sold for 3s. post free. The sizes of the first Series are:-Chest 19 inches, age 2.-Chest 20, age 4.-Chest 22, age 6.-Chest 24, age 8.-Chest 27, age 11 to 12.-Chest 28, age 12 to 13.Chest 30, age 14 to 15.

The sizes of the second Series are:-Small sizes, Chest 31 and Chest 33. Medium sizes, Chest 344 and Chest 36. Large sizes, Chest measures 37, 391, 41, and 42 inches.

Both these series of patterns are principally intended for Dressmakers If Ladies require any of the above sizes to suit themselves or their families they can be supplied at 6d. each pattern.

THE USE OF A

BUST TO LADIES AND DRESSMAKERS, Devere's Model Bust for the use of dressmakers, and private families, will be found a useful adjunct to the dressmakers' art: it is accurately moulded in papier maché, from the most perfect figures, and is covered with stout twilled calico, thus affording a firm yet flexible surface for the various purposes of trying-on garments. It is mounted on a handsome stand, and by means of the screw shown on the engraving, can be raised or lowered in height according to requirement. Another great advantage is the facility with which it turns round on the pivot, thus enabling the worker to fit or trim the back or front of a dress without moving from her position. French dressmakers find these Busts invaluable in their business, from the ease they afford for the arrangement of the elegant but complicated styles of trimmings so much in vogue at the present time.

For private families, where much of the dressmaking is done at home, a Devere's Model Bust would be found most useful, as with its use, and the aid of our Paris Model Patterns, the most complicated costume can be reproduced with the greatest ease; and one bust would serve for all members of the same family who are not smaller in size than the bust.

It will also be found very useful in making up lace collars, fich ús, &c., &c. In fact any lady once possessing this desirable article will find countless ways of making it useful, and will wonder how she has contrived to do so long without it.

We have arranged to supply these busts for the following sizes of chest measure:-311, 33, 34, 36, 37 391, 41, 42 and 44 inches, and to deliver them, carefully packed in a crate, and carriage free within 3 miles of Charing Cross, or at any London Railway terminus, on receipt of P. O. O. for 26s.

HOW TO ORDER A BUST AND ADAPT IT TO THE FIGURE, When ordering a Bust it is better to send a calico body made to fit, or a old dress body that fits well: the three measures shown on fig. 1 should also be sent, and it should be stated whether the lady is of proportionate figure, or stoops, or is very erect. A Bust suited to the lady will then be carefully selected from our stock, and forwarded with the body.

N. B. It must be understood that it is always necessary to select a Bust slightly smaller than the lady's dress body, because the bust cannot under any circumstances be made smaller, while it is very easy to pad it up to the required size.

If the Bust is too small at the waist, a belt of wadding of the required thickness is to be fastened round the waist, and the same thing can be done as regards the Chest, the shoulders, &c.: if the lady is stooping or round shouldered, two thickness of flannel placed on the upper part of back will bring the Bust to the proper shape; these paddings are simply pinned on the Bust, which may thus be made to serve for persons of different figures and sizes. The best way of enclosing the dress body and Post Office Order, is to buy one of the large Registered letter envelopes measuring 10 inches by 7 inches, which are sold at all Post Offices, price 3d. This will be sufficiently large to contain the Letter, P. O. Order, and Body, without any trouble in packing: the postage will be about 2d. or 3d. according to the thickness of the body.

N. B. The various articles named above can be obtained only from Messrs. Louis Devere & Co., 1, Kelso Place, Kensington, London, W. Or. ders to be sent by letter, enclosing stamps or P. O. Örder, for the amount

No. 680.

Observations

ON

LONDON AND PARISIAN FASHIONS.

From the experience of former years, we should say there are persons at the present time thinking what they shall bring out as a new fashion; but not knowing how Fashion progresses, they often bring out an absurdity that some people may adopt, but after a while it is found out that it is not the Fashion, and that the dress can only be worn a short time; had they followed the true laws of Fashion, it might have been worn two or three years, because true Fashion proceeds by slow de grees, not from one extreme to another-for instance, not from tight-fitting to loose-fitting garments, nor from harmonies of color to colors of striking contrast. The present taste is to show to the greatest advantage the beautiful forms of the Ladies; they have, therefore, gone back to the classic form; hence the additional seams, causing the garment to fit without creasing. The first idea of the Jersey was to do without seams, but this was wrong, it was going back in Fashion instead of advancing.

A little more than twelve months ago, we predicted the present taste for the Classic in dress; this taste has progressed, and will doubtless continue a long time, with all the beautiful harmony of colors in the materials. Last December we gave on Plate 1 the first three costumes trimmed with embroidery. This style has increased in favor ever since, and the most beautiful dresses seen in Paris are trimmed with embroidery. Jackets made entirely of brocade are increasing in favor, and larger quantities of brocade will be worn on dresses. Jackets will be worn longer, to take the appearance of the Jersey; when made shorter, they will be cut round at the bottom, instead of with points. In the widths of skirts at front there will be no change, but great variety in the style of arrangement.

Vol. 57.

The Comtesse de B- stated some time ago in this Magazine, that the freedom of Fashion allowed a Lady to select a bonnet or hat that suited her face: some Ladies requiring a close, others an open bonnet or hat, which must always be suited to the character of the face, we say this, because in England there has lately been a tendency to adopt one form, which is a great disadvantage to Ladies. Fashion generally decides whether bonnets and hats are worn larger or smaller, but the infinity of changes that is always going on in the trimming and arrangement, constitutes the most important part of the style in vogue.

While all the monde élégant quit Paris for the seaside, the chateaux, and the country, to shun the too boisterous fête of the 14th of July, the inhabitants of the country come from 25 to 30 leagues round, to assist at this glorious fete: they come in troops, in families, by pleasure trains. All their little business affairs have been left till this moment, and with the pleasure of seeing this grand feast, they can buy their stock of dresses, gloves, boots and shoes, &c., for the forthcoming season.

It was well worth coming to Paris for the fête this year; Paris was really superb. The Avenue des Champs Elysées, lighted up with its garlands of fire, had a magical effect. The Seine, too, was beautiful to contemplate, but what was most amusing to me was to look at all the spectators, at their nationalities, and their costumes, which were most varied both in form and color. On the whole, the costumes were pretty and bien réussis; the mixing of colors were tasty, and the general appearance elegant. Where is the time when a provincial coming to Paris could be recognised as such? Thanks to good fashion books and good patterns, the difference between the country and town lady is slight, and should both ladies' tastes be put in the balance, the country lady would have, I think, the advantage; for, on the whole, her taste is quieter and less assuming, bearing, if I may be allowed to say so, the stamp of the graceful nature which surrounds her.

I have not yet spoken to you of the new fantasie which, in a few weeks, has taken a most astonishing development. I mean the colored balayeuses. Black is very much worn, and to relieve it something bright was necessary. Nothing could look prettier than a colored balayeuse. For instance, a black dress is worn with a red, violet, or old gold hat or bonnet; well, according to the hat the plissé must be either red, violet, or old gold. These plissés are made of satin, two or three inches deep, and are sewn at the edge

of the skirt, allowing it to show about 1 inches. On a light dress a darker shaded plissé is sewn between two plissés of white balayeuse; this richness of trimming and profusion of lace greatly improves a costume, and makes an elegant dress of a simple toilette.

Gloves have also undergone a slight alteration: they are worn long to the elbow, but instead of being plain kid up to the top, they are cut in three intervals of the width of 1 inch, and filled in by a lace insertion of 1 inch in width; this idea is very good, as it gives more width to the glove, and allows it to fit without any crease.

Hoods are quite the fashion now; they are worn on all sorts of mantles, jackets, ulsters, cache poussiére, and even over plain bodies. The hood is always lined with silk or surah, and may be made pointed or round. Over a black silk jacket trimmed with lace the hood should be lace also.

Another new fantasie is the cotton parasol, which is very cheap, and not very elegant, unless it is to be worn with a cotton dress, and both trimmed with handsome lace. Then both together form an elegant morning promenade Costume for the seaside or country.

COMTESSE DE B―.

THE FULL-SIZED PATTERNS.

N.B. The full-sized Patterns given in this Magazine are all cut for Ladies of medium height, and of proportionate figure; measuring 34 inches round the chest, and 24 waist, unless otherwise stated in the description.

All allowances necessary for the seams are already given to these Patterns, so that the same NEED NOT be allowed for when cutting out except in materials that require extra wide turnings in.

THE BRIGHTON CORSAGE. (376.) Our first pattern is the Corsage for the Brighton Costume, which is illustrated on the second figure of Plate 1 (No. 376). This pattern is for a lady of good figure, and consists of six pieces, viz.: Back with its plissé, back skirt, sidepiece, sidepiece of front, collar, and sleeve. The seam that joins the sidepiece of front to the front, is marked by one small cut near the armhole.

LITTLE RENEE'S COSTUME. (377.)

Our second pattern (all the pieces of which are marked by one hole) is the body part of the little Renee's Costume, which is shown on No. 377 of Plate 1. It is for a little girl of five years old, and consists of back, sidepiece, front, collar, and sleeve. Two kilted flounces, each about 4 inches deep at front, and a single flounce at back will have to be added to complete the full length of skirt. The sash is only a plain piece of silk or satin about five inches wide.

Description

Of the Plates of Costumes.

Full-sized patterns of all the Dresses, Casaques, Pelisses, &c. on these plates are supplied at the nominal prices of from 3d to 6d. each, for the accomodation of subscribers. For particulars see pages 10 and 11. The Number in brackets, preceding the description of each figure, is the number of the Costume in our list of full-sized patterns.

The Reverse views of all the Costumes on Plates 1 to 4 will be found on plate 6.

PLATE THE FIRST.

Fig. 1.-(375).-The Torquay Morning Sea

Fig. 2.—(376).-The Brighton Toilette of pompadour satin ombré (washing material), trimmed with pipings of red; the loops may be of the same material as the pipings, or of satin ribbon. The cuirasse body is high to the neck, trimmed by a deep collar. The back forms a slight coat skirt, the opening of which is filled by a plissé of red. The petticoat is a long plissé, and the overskirt which fastens on it is elegantly pleated in front and draped behind. This toilette will take 10 yds. pompadour; 1 yds. red satinette; 3 yds. ribbon; 12 buttons.

Fig. 3.-(377).-Little Rénée Seaside Costume of blue marine, trimmed with light blue silk. This little princess dress is edged in front by two plissés, and at back by a flounce which starts from under the light blue sash. The dress is buttoned in front as far as the light blue sash, a cross band of dark blue is laid under the sash, and fastened at the sides by two buttons. This dress can be made in woollen or washing materials. It will take 3 yds. blue satinette; 1 yd. light blue silk; 12 buttons.

Fig. 4. (378).-The Eglantine Blouse Costume of pink zephyr, trimmed with embroidery. The front and back are laid in pleats; the underskirt is a plissé; the back is caught together by a sash; the whole is trimmed with embroidery. Will require 4 yds zephyr; 53 yds. embroidery; 6 buttons.

PLATE THE SECOND.

Fig. 1. (379). The Gladys Demi-saison Paletot of light cloth. Will require 2 yds. cloth, and 18 buttons.

Fig. 2.-(380). - The Churchhill Carriage Costume of buff brocade and buff silk. The tunic is cut en princesse front and back. It opens V shaped in front, and is trimmed by revers; the tunic is well looped up at back, and gracefully draped at sides under cerise bows; the whole is edged by fringe. The tablier is bouillonné down to the flounce, which is carried all round the train. Will require 5 yds. brocade; 5 yds. silk; 6 yds. ribbon; 5 yds fringe; 12 buttons.

Fig. 3.-(381).-The Amethyst Home Costume of lilac satinette, trimmed with spotted material. The front, which has a spotted gilet, is cut en princesse down to the first point, where it is gathered under a bow. The ribbon of this first bow is not cut, but forms another bow, which hides the gathers of the second pointed drapery. The back forms the usual jacket body, fulled in slightly under the two

buttons, and imitating a coat skirt; two pouff's are formed on the underskirt, which is trimmed in front by two plissés, and at back by one, the whole ornamented by spotted material. Will take 12 yds. satinette; 2 yds. spotted material; 3 yds. ribbon; 12 buttons.

PLATE THE THIRD.

Fig. 1.-(382).-The St. Germain Tea Gown of nut colored cachemire, trimmed with pink silk. It is a princesse robe opened in front on a petticoat of small flounces, and is edged by revers of pink silk. The back is elegantly looped up by a handsome sash of pink silk; the bottom is trimmed all round by a band of silk, and round the neck a Sarah-Bernhardt ruche of lace, with a coquille reaching to the waist. This elegant Tea Gown will require 11 yds. cachemire; 3 yds. silk.

Fig. 2.-(383).-The Primrose Ball Toilette of straw colored silk, trimmed with white satin. The cuirasse body opens in front en V, the space being filled by a plastron of bouillonné white satin, edged by old point de Venise. Four deep folded pleats are laid on the hips, and draped behind by an ornament which might be replaced by flowers or loops of ribbon. The tablier is of white satin brocade, edged by chenille fringe. The underskirt is bouillonné, of silk and white satin, and is edged by two plissés; the back of train, which is made en pouff, is ornamented at the bottom like the front. Will require 14 yds. straw-colored silk; 3 yds. white satin; 1 yds. brocade; 2 yds. fringe; 7 yds. lace.

:

Fig. 3. (384). The Carington Dinner Toilette of blue brocade, trimmed with blue satin. This elegant costume is cut en princesse both back and front; the front is pleated under a double bow, and a large revers of satin is sewn on the front and looped up under another revers which is fastened on the side; the whole is trimmed by plissés of white and blue satin. The petticoat is made of blue satin flounces and bouillonné. Revers of satin are laid across the shoulders, forming a round collar behind and narrowing down the front to the bow in a point. Will take 12 yds. brocade if long train is required, if demi-train 10 yds. will be sufficient; 12 yds. satin; 9 yds. white satin plisse.

PLATE THE FOURTH.

At the upper part of this Plate three elegant Bonnets are represented :

The Milly Bonnet of white chip trimmed with Princess of Wales red and grey feathers.

The Lilian Bonnet of grey chip trimmed with black satin ribbon and caroubier roses; the crown of the bonnet is trimmed with firelight beads.

The Lydia Bonnet of white chip trimmed with mauve surah, white feathers, and white

roses.

Fig. 1.-(385).-The Darea Promenade Costume of drab alpaca, trimmed with spotted foulard. The cuirasse body is trimmed with double collar of foulard, the front of skirt by double draperies, the upper one being gathered in the middle, while the second is only draped. The back is well looped up by bows; the whole being ornamented by foulard. The petticoat is trimmed by a plissé and a bouillonne. Will take 10 yds. alpaca; 2 yds. foulard; 18 buttons.

Fig. 2.-(386).-The Harewood Black Silk Costume, trimmed with fringe. The body, slightly opened in front, forms a coat-skirt behind; it is trimmed by a collar and a gathered fold of silk. The apron is laid in three folds, and is trimmed with fringe; the skirt is plissé and coquillé; the back is well draped and falls very gracefully. This stylish costume will require 17 yds. black silk; 13 yds. of fringe; 12 buttons.

Fig. 3.-(387). The Baden Travelling Costume of drab cloth, trinimed with shepherd's plaid. The jacket buttons in front, and at back the openings are filled in by plissés. In front the overskirt is open on a petticoat of double pleats, and the back is well draped on the petticoat. The whole is trimmed with shepherd's plaid. Will require: 10 yds. single width cloth; 3 yds. plaid.

PLATE THE FIFTH.

Fig. 1.-(388).-The Agnes Morning Dress of white nansouk, trimmed with embroidery and plissés. This costume can be made of any material, the most suitable being linen for summer and woollen for winter wear. It will require 13 yds. material; 12 buttons; 8 yds. embroidery.

Fig. 2.-(389).-Bathing Costume, for a Young Lady, of blue serge trimmed with white braid. Will take 5 yds. serge; 7 yds. wide braid; 14 yds. narrow; 12 buttons.

Fig. 3.-(390).- Bathing Costume for a Lady. This blouse costume is made back and front alike. From the shoulder-yoke start double pleats which are gathered at the waist by a band, and are then allowed to fall gracefully. Will require: 8 yds. serge; 4 yds. wide braid; 6 yds. narrow braid; 12 buttons.

Fig. 4. (391).-The Knollys Promenade Costume of brown cachemire, trimmed with pipings. The cuirasse is made with two points back and front. The front of skirt is arranged in two pointed draperies. The back is elegantly looped up and buttoned on the front draperies. The underskirt has a deep plissé. Will require: 11 yds. cachemire; 4 yds. ribbon; 12 buttons.

Fig. 5.-(392).-Visite Mantle of Shuddas, trimmed with passementerie and fringe. It is well draped behind, and ornamented by passementerie. The front forms a mantilla with square ends. It will require 3 yds. Shuddas; 6 yds. fringe; 6 yds. passementerie; and the trimming up the back.