but at present it flows too deep to carry the floating mass quickly with it. The secrecy and dissimulation of the people in some instances are very amusing-you go into their shop, and after a while they stealthily pull out of some drawer behind the counter a splendid mosaic likeness of Garibaldi, or a fine cameo of 'Il nostro Re.' The Pope drives by, and in the same breath they give him a cheer and tell you how they long to see the others fill the place of his Holiness. However they are rarely as open as this, there are too many spies at work to allow their confiding to you their real sentiments. This is the sort of spirit that works unseen, particularly among all who are engaged in trade, as they know well the benefits that would accrue to them, if the change were effected, for commerce now is perfectly at a stand still; however, there is no head of any importance to guide or concentrate this opposing powerthere exists a committee,' but all is kept so quiet that I fear it is but of little influence. The change is therefore but a very gradual one, and, working in such an isolated manner it will take a long time before it has any general effect. Whatever the French Emperor's motives may be in keeping his troops here, there is no doubt that the delay is of essential service to Italy, if ever it is to be united, provided that delay is not extended too far; had Rome fallen to Victor Emmanuel when Naples did, and a united kingdom been attempted then, a disastrous failure might have accrued; from trying a free government in other cities they have learnt the disposition of the people they have to deal with, the troubles, as well as the advantages-the experience has been of the utmost service. Thus Rome, hitherto, instead of being an obstacle, has in reality been the cause of making the work more perfect, and has let people into the secret that there is a mighty difference between the patriotism of an Italian in the heat of revolution and that of one sobered down under a steady government. Their patience now has been sorely tried, and I know, for a positive fact, that the chief families in Rome feel the existing state of things most keenly; some young Italians are even leaving Rome at the expense of banishment; but will there not be good arise out of this, provided it is not prolonged too far-what they will earn by suffering they will appreciate the more, and when they have earned it, they will be more circumspect than they would have been had their wishes been gratified all in a moment. Again, many of the more influential and educated have been drawn over from this delay to see the necessity of a change, and their weight thrown into the scale will be sure to give matters a better face. There are but two or three of the great Roman families who support the temporal power, such as the Borghese, Doria, and Colonna; and these chiefly from the reason that they have relations in close connexion with the Pope. Again, if Rome is to be the centre of government, there is another enemy that she has to contend with, most unseen, and most mysterious-the malaria, no ideal or imaginary evil: but is this to baffle all human skill and energy? Surely the great remedies remain yet to be tried-if better inhabited and better cultivated, there might be a great difference. The population certainly is on the increase, but it is a very gradual increase. Rome in its original grandeur extended really from the Capitol to Ostia, but where are the millions to come from that peopled it then? The railway is now open to the Neapolitan frontier, and will soon be complete to Naples; this is a great epoch in the history of modern Rome; but they are painfully and miserably slow about it; the Pope is to open it, but then if he is to turn out for such a job, we must wait until the warm spring weather comes, and when the warm weather comes we must wait for a particularly fine day, and when that very fine day arrives there will probably be some particular mass which will detain him; so whichever side we look to, the advancement in either direction is slow; the one is contributing however imperceptibly to the furtherance of the other, and the fear and caution of the one act as a corrective to any premature attempts on the part of the other. Our fellow countrymen abound here-in fact where do they not? Go where you will, the hotels and lodgings are always full of English-mammas with families of all dimensions, delicate daughters and desperate daughters and daughters of every degree, strong minded maiden ladies, elderly batchelors, worn out officers, etc...The majority of these people, especially the feminine portion, seem to come here for the 'season,' and the real interests of Rome take but a subordinate place in their minds-the showy ceremonies in St. Peter's and other churches have far greater charms, and they rush to them with frantic excitement, sit there for two or three hours before the time so as to secure a good place, and then when the Misses Smith go to the Misses Jones's at home' in the evening, these ceremonies afford VOL. III. I topics for delightful conversation. These at homes' form the chief society in Rome, and the only way that the English meet together; about half-past eight of an evening some select thirty or forty blunder up a Roman lodging staircase to a 'terzo piano'-tea, coffee, and small talk form the amusement-dancing in most houses being strictly prohibited, for being built so shockingly bad, there is reasonable fear that the vibration of some fifteen couple in motion would cause the 'terzo' to subside into the secondo piano' and so on. I know a lady who attempted it, but a couple of gensdarmes appeared in the room after a very short time with drawn swords-accordingly we have recourse to small talk which is of a decidedly trifling description—some patronising mamma or simpering girl with an aim at a classical air will ask some vague question about Phocas or Gallienus, as they remember the brave Courier' having pointed out a fine Column erected to the one and an Arch to the other, as they were driving along in their carriage: and as about all that is known of these men is that "they were notorious for their profligacy, and debauchery, and their vices knew no bounds," it requires a stretch of the imagination to depict them in glowing colours-and so with a sonnet and then an ice, an ice and then a sonnet beautifully intermingled, the small talk goes on with redoubled vigour, a spell comes over our dear wanderers, Rome and its ruins fade away, and they really feel themselves once more, to their delight or-shall I say it to their shame, transported to their own long regretted metropolis. Such then is the diversion for the evening, and for the day, something perhaps not so very dissimilar, and so they manage to eke out a couple of months, the Carnival always affording a bright prospect in the distance; when this is over, they hail the return of Lent with great glee, because they then retire to Naples, and spend the time of penitence in seclusion! returning to Rome for the Easter festivities. However, to those who have any appreciation for Rome's interests, however long their stay may be, time never hangs heavy; after making an acquaintance with all that is known of the important ruins, there remains the still more interesting work of finding out something fresh, or at all events of giving the imagination the benefit of a good free range, and this is quite lawful where so much is veiled in uncertainty and doubtfulness. Those who take less delight in ruin hunting, find plenty of amusement in riding-the Campagna is a splendid place for such recreation-the gates are invariably locked, but the fences are easy. The fashion is to ride out in parties, some twelve or fifteen together. These parties form the remnant of the old hunt which was kept up in great force here, until two years ago two faithful children' of the Pope met with accidents from their shamefully bad riding, and an order was issued by his Holiness forbidding this innocent amusement; the meets were very numerously attended, and hundreds of carriages belonging to the Roman aristocracy joined and formed a most interesting scene. Foxes abound round the city, and in the neighbouring woods the 'Laurens aper' must be as common as ever it was, for we get well supplied with it at table. Game generally is tolerably abundant; and the game market presents the most peculiar appearance; if any ornithologist wishes to increase his collection, I should recommend him to pay it a visit. Every miserable little bird of every description is caught and set out for sale, even robins tied up in bunches, plucked and ready for the spit; down by the sea coast snipe and woodcock shooting must be good, judging by the prices here, woodcocks being only 10d. a couple. There is considerable difficulty I believe attending shooting, a decent gun and a licence being no easy matters to obtain. I cannot speak from experience; my stay here is limited, and there is so much of interest within the walls and the immediate environs that at present I have not found time for anything else. This letter will I fear be of but little interest. Naples and its neighbourhood may suggest something more manageable. Suffice it to add that the Old Bird is flapping his wings again and has good hopes for the future. + STURBRIDGE FAIR. "Expositas late Cami prope flumina merces, " Nundina Sturbrigienses. EVERY one who has taken the trouble to wade through Barnwell, must have noticed, on crossing the railwaybridge, an old building on his left, which, at some period or other, has evidently been used for religious purposes. It is a good specimen of Anglo-Norman architecture, and deserves, even from the most incurious, something more than a mere passing glance; and I have no doubt it would receive more notice, were it not for the innumerable patches of every description of stone, slate, rubble, brick and mortar, which adorn its roof and walls, and give it a decided smack of the adjoining village. It is long since the building has been used for other than the most secular objects, but it once was the chapel of a hospital of lepers, and was dedicated to St. Mary Magdalene. It is not known when the hospital was founded, but as the chapel I believe belongs to the period of Henry I., we must at least date it back to the beginning of the twelfth century. The first mention I can find of the hospital is in the year 1199 A.D. Shortly after this, about the year 1211 A.D., king John granted to the lepers a fair in the close of the hospital, on the vigil and feast of the Holy Cross† (September 14th). This is undoubtedly the origin of Sturbridge Fair, of which I purpose, in this article, to give a short history and description. Sturbridge, or Steresbrigg, which has also been corrupted Palgrave. Vide Cooper's Annals of Cambridge, Vol. 1. 31. I am indebted to Mr. Cooper for most of my references, and sometimes, as in this case, where I have been unable to verify the reference, I have quoted directly from the Annals. † Cooper's Annals, 1. 34; Rot. Hun., 11. 360. |