we were in search of driving a mule; he was not a bad looking fellow, and seemed fit for his work. We accosted him. Did he know the mountain? Yes, well. Had he ascended it? Yes, several times. To the highest point of all? Yes, even there, but it was very difficult, there was a lower peak much easier to reach. That would not do-we must go to the highest; could he shew us the way? Yes, if we would let him bring his comrade. A bargain as to price, &c. was soon struck, and increased to eight, we walked on. From Au Clos to L'Alefred where the vallies divide is a pretty walk through a pine wood, up a steep winding path bordered in many places with wild yellow gooseberries. At the last Chalets of L'Alefred we parted with our porter, and halted for some black bread and milk. This black bread is a curiosity, it is made in flat round cakes about eighteen inches in diameter. They bake only once or at most twice a year, and keep their bread on shelves in the lofts exposed to the air. Consequently it is as hard as a board, and has to be cut either with an axe or a knife, made to act as a lever-when soaked in wine or milk it is not bad, when dry it eats rather like conglomerated sawdust. While we were refreshing, all the natives turned out of their chalets to have a stare. On the whole I think they were the ugliest folk I ever saw; short, squat, flat-nosed, and pig-eyed-in fact, rather like Esquimaux-they are reputed to be the most uncivilized people in Dauphinè, but I saw a good many others not much better in other mountain vallies. Refreshed, we now struck up the Val de Sapeniere, following a rough track by the side of the stream. It is a mere gorge with precipices to the right and steep slopes to the left. There is however a tragical story connected with it. In 1488, a number of Vaudois families sought refuge from persecution in a cavern among the precipices to the right. For some time they eluded their enemies, but at last were discovered by a soldier who climbed down from above; straw and faggots were piled at the mouth of the cave, and set on fire; of those within, some rushing out, were slain, others in despair leapt down the precipices and were dashed to pieces, the rest perished miserably in the smoke. It is said that four hundred infants† were found within the cave dead in their mothers' arms, and that three

*The highest point of the Pelvoux is called in the country the Point des Arcines, or des Ecrins.

† Gilly's Memoirs of Neff, p. 90.

thousand persons perished on this occasion. The cave is still called the Baume des Vaudois. After walking a mile or so we turned off short to the right and began to climb over the blocks of fallen rock in the direction of a narrow gorge, which must at times be occupied by a waterfall. As we drew near, the slope became steeper and steeper, till at last we took to the rocks themselves on the left-hand side of the gorge. A stiff climb now commenced up some very steep rocks, on which both skill and care were sometimes requisite ; we however made rapid progress, till at the end of about an hour and-a-half we came to the end of the rocks and emerged upon a slope of turf, thickly spread with huge blocks, to one of the largest of which the guide pointed, saying "voilà le cabane." I confess to feeling disgusted-I had not hoped for much-but I had expected a hut and a truss of hay for a bed. Nothing of the kind was here. There was nothing but a huge mass of rock, that had in former times fallen down from the cliffs above, and had rested so as to form a shelter under one of its sides. This had been still farther enclosed with a rough wall of loose stones, and thus a sort of kennel was made about nine or ten feet by five or six, and about four feet high at the entrance, whence it sloped gradually down to about two feet at the other end. Our thoughts turned regretfully to some extra wraps left down below, but there was no help for it, and "what can't be cured, must be endured," is excellent philosophy for the Alps. Accordingly we put the best face on it, and set to work to make all comfortable for the night. Dead juniper boughs were collected for a fire, and the guides set to work. to clean out the cave, which, being frequented by the sheep as well as the shepherds, was in a sufficiently filthy condition. The first who entered quickly emerged again holding at arm's length the mortal remains of a defunct mutton in a very lively condition, which he quickly sent over the precipice for the ravens to sup on, if they had any fancy for it. The floor was then swept and strewed with fern and dock leaves, and a fire lighted to sweeten the place. While this was going on we were occupied with taking Barometer and Thermometer observations* and with sketching. Evening drew on, and one by one my companions retired into the

* These observations gave a height of seven thousand three hundred and eighty-one feet above the level of the sea for our cabane.

cave, but not fancying the look of it, I stopped outside as long as possible. It was a strange wild scene-overhead hung the crags of the Pelvoux, splintered into flame-like points; from their feet sloped down vast banks of fallen blocks overgrown with serpent-like branches of old junipers, and broken here and there with slopes of turf-a few feet in front of me steep precipices, overhanging the fatal "Baume," led down into the valley below, beyond which rose another mass of rocks and pine covered slopes, surmounted with a ridge of cliffs somewhat overtopping us-a fine pyramid of snow-streaked rock closed the valley, from whose shoulders a large glacier descended.

Night however came on, the sky grew wild and stormy, and it became too cold to remain out longer, so mustering up my resolution I crawled into the cave, and almost instantly retreated much faster, more than half choked. A fire is a very comfortable thing on a cold night, but has its drawbacks when the house is without a chimney, and the smoke has to escape by the door. If, in addition to this, the house be about four feet high, and the fire of damp juniper wood, matters are still worse. However, human nature can adapt itself to a good deal, and so by lying down so as to avoid the thickest part of the smoke, I contrived to endure it after a time. Supper over, we prepared for the night. My attire was simple, but certainly not ornamental; a travelling cap, with the flaps tied over my ears, a huge woollen "comforter" about my neck, and a spare flannel shirt over my usual costume; my boots were taken off and placed in a safe corner, a second pair of socks drawn on, and my slippers worn during the night; then spreading my gaiters on the ground I lay down on them, having picked the softest stone I could find for a pillow. My companions did the same, and despite of the blasts of the storm, which howled round our cabane, we did not suffer from cold. It was a strange sight, when, stiff and cramped by my hard bed, I woke from time to time during the night. The fire, flickering with the wind, lit up the faces of the sleepers and the rocky walls of the cavern with a weird unearthly light, such as would have gladdened Salvator Rosa's heart. Croz alone was generally on the alert, smoking his pipe and feeding the fire. Now and then he would step outside to examine the state of the night and return with a hearty curse on the bad weather. So passed the night, wearily and drearily, to give birth to a drearier day. The dawn did but reveal thick banks of clouds and mist, above, below,

around, pouring down a steady, hopeless rain. One by one we roused up with a true British growl at our ill-luck. Then we held a council of war; the expedition was for that day evidently impossible-what then was to be done, should we give it up altogether, or await better weather? Angry at our last disappointment, we unanimously resolved that we would wait at least one day before retreating. This however would require a fresh stock of provisions. Accordingly, we sent the two local guides down to Ville de Val Louise to bring up what they could get, and composed ourselves to watch out the weary day. Sleep was tried again, but not much was done that way. Breakfast was spun out as long as possible, but that cannot be carried on long when the fare is bad. Happily I discovered that the lining of my coat had been much torn in climbing over the rocks, and that I had a needle and thread with me; so I set to work and spent an hour in tailoring. Presently the rain began to find its way through various cracks in the rock, and obliged us to set out the cups of our flasks to catch it. I don't envy the unfortunate shepherds who have to spend a month or two in that cave-they come from Provence with their flocks every year, and go gradually up to the higher pastures as the snow melts away. In about a couple of months' time they recommence their descent, and return home with their flocks in the autumn. They live in caves or wretched chalets often without seeing a human being for days together, so that nothing more miserable according to our notions, can well be imagined; but they, I am told, like it, nay, prefer it to living in the valley.

About mid-day snow fell at intervals, and the rain became less heavy. The Frenchman, who had a liking for botany, sallied forth occasionally for a few minutes and returned with a handful of weeds (I cannot dignify them with the name of flowers). Then would commence a botanical argument between him and M. The Frenchman, after diligently turning over two paper covered volumes, would affix a name to a plant. This was generally controverted by M., then after the manner of opposing "Savants" they recklessly flung about long names, till at last M., who was a good botanist, forced his antagonist to confess himself vanquished. These discussions helped to pass away the time till dinner. During the meal H. suddenly remembered that it was his birthday; we accordingly drank his health, and sincerely wished that he might never again spend so dull a day. Late in the afternoon it ceased raining, and we strolled about

the broken rocks near our cave, hunting for plants and minerals, with very little success. Dauphinè is, in general, very rich in plants, and those too of a kind that can gratify unbotanical persons like myself, but here there were very few, and those not pretty. However, we collected a good store of dead juniper boughs for fuel during the night, which I placed near the fire to dry, not caring to be choked with the smoke of wet wood. Soon after our return to the cave the guides came in with the provisions; they looked rather done up with their walk, though it was not a very long one. Night at last brought the day to an end, and we prepared for bed. This time we had to vary our proceedings, for the earth was too wet to lie upon; we therefore placed smooth stones upon the floor and lay or sat upon them. In consequence of this, we were more uncomfortable this night than before; we were crowded closer together, our legs, which all pointed to the fire, frequently getting in a hopeless tangle. I woke up once so stiffened with the pressure of my stony seat that for some time I could not identify my own legs. However, all things come to an end, and so did this night, morning dawned again—not indeed exactly "smiling morn,' but still giving us some hopes; so about four we bid adieu to the Hotel du Mont Pelvoux, which we agreed had but one recommendation, that of having no bill to pay when we left it.

For some little time we walked along the pastures steering for the head of the valley, till we reached a wide open gorge that led down to the valley below. Here we halted and concealed all our baggage and some provisions under a stone, taking with us nothing but what was necessary for the day. It was now light, the sky was tolerably clear of clouds, and we ventured to hope for a fine day and successful excursion; at the same time the rocks, sprinkled with snow for a couple of thousand feet below the usual level, warned us that the labour of our work would be much increased. We now began to ascend, and soon exchanged the turf for a steep slope of fallen rocks, that separated us from the precipices of the mountain. Suddenly one of our guides stopped and pointed to a jagged ridge above, we looked up, and there in relief against the clear morning sky stood a chamois, calmly contemplating our proceedings: though I had many times been among their haunts, this was the first that I had ever seen, and I watched it for some time with much interest, till, after it had satisfied its curiosity,