most choice and delicate, and is characterized by its silky softness on the palate, and its charming perfume, which partakes of the perfume of the violet and the raspberry. The Latour has a fuller body, and at the same time a considerable aroma, but wants the softness of the Lafitte. Chateau-Margeaux is, on the other hand, lighter, and possesses all the delicate qualities of the Lafitte, except that it has not quite so high a flavour. The Haut-Brion, again, has more spirit and body than any of the preceding, but it is rough when used soon. These are the first-rate wines, which ought, when genuine, to embalm the palate, and which divide the suffrages of Amateurs. If, then, a man wishes to be pleasantly exhilarated for a whole evening, and perfectly sober with his wits about him in the morning, let him drink claret.

The quantity of wine raised in France, is almost incredible. The Vineyards are said to occupy five millions of acres, or a twenty-sixth part of the whole territory. Paris alone consumes more than three times the quantity of wine consumed in the British Isles. Indeed, the production of wine, is, next to the ordinary business of agriculture, by far the most extensive and valuable branch of industry in France. It is estimated by the land owners and merchants of the department of the Gironde, that the quantity of wine, anuually produced in France, amounts, at an average, to about forty millions of hectolitres, or, 1060 millions of gallons ;-that its value is not less than from 800 to 1000 millions of francs, or from thirty-two to forty millions sterling; and that upwards of three millions of individuals are employed in its production.

Vide Petition des Propriétaires de Vignes, du Département de la Gironde, Adressée aux Chambres, et Mémoire à l'Appui.

Wine tax in France, The whole amount of the local taxation over the great towns of the kingdom is about 1,200,000 £ sterling; the Governmeut and local taxes together, over the whole kingdom, amount to 5,200,000£ sterling. In Paris, a hectolitre of wine pays in municipal, and national taxes, 21 francs, or about 4d, per bottle,

DRY AND STRONG WINES. This class comprehends those wines which are most frequently drunk in this Country; as Madeira, Sherry, Port, &c. Of all the strong wines Madeira is the best, not only for the healthy man, but for the invalid also, notwithstanding the slight acidity with which it is accompanied. It is equally spirituous as Sherry, and possesses a more delicate flavour and aroma, and as to the acid, upon which it is the fashion to lay so much stress, it is, after all, merely an atom of cream of Tartar. Of Madeira wines, there are four distinct sorts.

Sherry is prepared at Xeres near Cadiz. Sherry wines recommend themselves to many, by an almost total absence of acidity,—a merit rather ideal than real. It is, sometimes, the practice to mix a little lime with the grapes before they are pressed. This, however, can only neutralize the acid already existing in the grape. Sherries of a pale straw colour are at present the fashion. Sherries are dry or sweet; but the dry are the most esteemed in this country: on their native soil, the choice is reversed, the Spaniard uniformly preferring such wines as are rich and sweet.

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Port Wines were introduced into England about the year 1700. The usual color of Port on its arrival in this country, is purplish, or inky; rough and full-bodied; of

Falstaff's Sherries Sack, was, doubtless, dry Sherry; the French word sec (dry), being corrupted into sack. In a poem, printed in 1619, sack and sherry are noted throughout as synonymous, every stanza, to the number of twelve, ending,

Give me sack, old sack, boys,

To make the muses merry;

The life of mirth, and the joy of the earth,

Is a cup of good old Sherry,

PASQUIL,

an astringent and bitter sweet taste; and with an odour and flavour of brandy proportionate to the genuineness of the Wine. Keeping the wine in the wood, will abate all these peculiarities, except those of the brandy; which, age, in the bottle, as from eight to twelve years, will alone qualify; and the genuine wine is thus obtained. In the mean time, the colouring and other matter, becomes crusted on the sides of the vessels, frequently carrying with it much of the flavour of the wine, which is then technically termed tawney. The "thick crust," the "bee's wing" and several other criterions of the epicure, are but so many proofs of the decomposition and departure of some of the best qualities of the wine. The partiality of the British to Port Wine, affords a marked illustration of the influence of custom, in reconciling the palate to a fluid whose bitterness, harshness, acerbity, and other repulsive qualities, are only disguised by a large admixture of ardent spirit. Common Port, is a black Stygian compound of wine and brandy; for previous to exportation, additional potency is given to the wine, by the addition of brandy. This process is in technical language called "fretting in." Justice, however, demands the acknowledgment, that this is done with the express view of rendering it marketable in this country, and of pleasing the vitiated taste of the British nation. If, therefore, we complain that Port Wine is a fiery, brandied liquor (which it is), surely, no inconsiderable portion of the blame rests upon ourselves. Formerly, brandy was mixed with the wine, from an idea that it was essential to its preservation. This supposition is, however, entirely gratuitous. The Wines of Oporto abound in the astringent principle, and on account of the Gallic acid which they contain, are unfit for weak stomachs. Neither

Sherry nor Port enlivens the fancy like the French wines, and the excitement they produce, is of a sluggish nature.

Genuine Wine, when of a proper age, and when temperately used, is cordial, and tonic ;—quickens the action of the heart and arteries ;-strengthens the animal functions;promotes the different secretions;-diffuses an agreeable warmth over the body;-calls into action all the intellectual powers, and banishes all unpleasant feelings from the mind. But it is the temperate man, and he alone, who can taste its pleasures.

ADULTERATION OF WINES.

A Tavern with a gaudy sign,

Whose bush is better than the wine,
May cheat you once;-will that device
"Neat as imported,' cheat you twice?

GARRICK.

MUCH has of late years been said, concerning the adulteration of wines; and though I am by no means disposed to join in the clamour, yet the subject is one of too much importance to pass over altogether. I would indeed gladly wave it entirely; not only from the belief that the accounts we hear of these matters are much exaggerated,-but also, from the conviction, that the system of adulteration, is one, which is hastening to work its own reformation. Nor can one read, with complacency, those sweeping conclusions, and violent tirades, directed against a whole body of men, for the delinquencies of a few.

In the wine trade, as in all other trades, the great body of its members consists of honest and honourable men, who would spurn at any wealth obtained from a polluted source. That there are a few, who scruple not to tamper with the health of their fellow-creatures, has been but too frequently proved-and that wines are not merely adulterated, but manufactured in this country, is demonstrated by the irresistible fact, that there is more wine, reputed to be foreign, drunk in England, than is imported.