parallel to it. On the south side it runs also from east to west, in a straight line, about three hundred feet; here it turns at right angles, and runs about 'two hundred and fifty feet from north to south, when, turning again at right angles, it runs about four hundred feet from east to west, nearly up to the river, where it turns at right angles toward the north, and falls in with the bank of the river, which borders the west side. Whatever this part of the city may have been, it is evident that it was built upon a previously constructed plan, as well as the walls which surround it at a short distance on three sides. In the external angle of the south side, there are three altars, with statues near. On the same side, but unconnected with the foregoing part, there are nine similar altars, also with statues. Only one similar work of art is found in the interior of the principal block, but there are other not less curious sculptures. There are several pyramidal structures in the interior of the outer walls, some of which are in the principal block. They do not seem to be built with any regard to the cardinal points; a circumstance which deserves to be noticed, since this direction has always been considered as one of great importance. The principal building in the block Mr. Stephens calls "the temple," and thus describes :

"This temple is an oblong inclosure. The front or river wall extends on a right line, north and south, six hundred and twentyfour feet, and it is from sixty to ninety feet in height. It is made of cut stones, from three to six feet in length, and a foot and a half in breadth. The other three sides consist of ranges of steps and pyramidal structures, rising from thirty to one hundred and forty feet in height on the slope. The whole line of survey is two thousand eight hundred and sixty feet, which, though gigantic and extraordinary for a ruined structure of the aborigines, that the reader's imagination may not mislead him, I consider it necessary to say, is not so large as the base of the great pyramid of Ghizeh."Vol. i. p. 133.

The part of the ruins of which the author here speaks, is that which we have called the principal block. It would be vain to attempt to give an idea of the sculptures upon it by verbal descriptions. Mr. Catherwood's drawings are so distinct, so perfect in all the proportions of their parts, such exact likenesses of the original objects they represent, that even Mr. Stephens thinks it useless to add to them any explana

tions. As we do not doubt that this book, both on account of its doubly national character and its undoubted superior merit, will find its way into the libraries of all persons who ever read any thing else than a novel, we the less regret the impossibility of laying before our readers a distinct description of these admirable works of art which are portrayed in it. That they are admirable we may certainly say, and worthy of being compared with some of the most delicate sculptured works in Gothic monuments. One of their characteristics consists in the elegant draperies which cover, in a most graceful manner, the backs of some of the columnar monuments, whose front side is occupied by some human figure. On one of these monuments in particular, this kind of sculptured decoration is most beautiful.

Some of

On every one of these columnar monuments, which vary in size, the largest being thirteen feet high, the figures are different, as well as the ornaments which surround them, and cover the back and the sides of the column. these ornaments may be hieroglyphics, but for the most part they are certainly mere ornaments. The figures, as well as several of the human faces on these monuments, all present front views, which character distinguishes them from the basreliefs on the altars, which are profiles. These latter sculptures have some resemblance to those that cover the interior of the palace at Palenque, and which are generally known, at least as far as their most striking character is concerned. As we shall not be able to return again to this subject, we may add here, that this work contains accurate representations, by Mr. Catherwood, of all the remains of Palenque described by former travellers, and, moreover, some which are not contained in the expensive works published in England and in France about these ruins; so that for the antiquarian, no work as valuable as that of our countryman has as yet been published.

In order to prosecute his researches at Copan, Mr. Stephens bought the whole city from one of the inhabitants of the village.

"The reader," he says, "is perhaps curious to know how old cities sell in Central America. Like other articles of trade, they are regulated by the quantity in market, and the demand; but not being staple articles, like cotton and indigo, they were held at fancy prices, and at that time were dull of sale. I paid fifty dol

lars for Copan. There was never any difficulty about price. I offered the sum, for which Don Jose Maria thought me only a fool; if I had offered more, he would probably have considered me something worse."-Vol. i. p. 128.

Mr. Stephens has a decided taste for old cities. Not only did he visit most of those which are known in the old world and the new, but in the latter he buys them for his own account. Of Copan he is actually the owner, unless the government of Guatimala interferes; Palenque he would have bought, but for an unfortunate law, prohibiting foreigners from buying lands in the country, unless they marry a "hica del pais," a daughter of the land. And even this circumstance would scarcely have prevented him from becoming the owner of the ruined palace whose inmate he had been for several weeks, had Palenque presented the means of complying with the law. About this he remarks:

This, by the way, is a grand stroke of policy, holding up the most powerful attraction of the country to seduce men from their natural allegiance, and radicate them in the soil; and it is taking them where weak and vulnerable; for when wandering in strange countries, alone and friendless, buffeted and battered, with no one to care for him, there are moments when a lovely woman might root the stranger to any spot on earth. On principle I always resisted such tendencies, but I never before found my interest to give way. The ruined city of Palenque was a most desirable piece of property." "The case was embarrassing and complicated. Society in Palenque was small; the oldest young lady was not more than fourteen, and the prettiest woman, who already had contributed most to our happiness, (she made our cigars,) was already married."-Vol. ii. p. 363.

As our limits do not now allow us to devote that attention to the antiquities described in this work which their importance demands, and for the proper examination of which a special article would be requisite, we leave that part of the subject for the present, and return to its general descrip

tions.

Mr. Stephens departed from the ruins and continued his road towards Guatimala, leaving Mr. Catherwood behind him to complete his drawings. In this part of his journey he fared better than in the preceding one, being received most kindly by the curas that he met on his road, and whom he describes as educated men, devoted to their holy mission

and to the Indians of their flock. On leaving San Jacinto, he remarks: "I could but think, what afterwards impressed itself upon me more and more in every step of my journey in that country, blessed is the village that has a padre!"

Two days afterwards he arrived at Guatimala. Here his narrative acquires a new interest. If in Copan we found occasion to look with wonder upon the works of sculpture and architecture of unknown artists, of unknown times, we now listen with equal surprise to the description of the actual state of the modern inhabitants of the capital of Chiapas. Through an almost impassable country, over wretched roads, across unbridged rivers, and through villages without inns, we arrive at a large, splendid city, inferior to few in the new world. We may expect now to be relieved from that sadness of heart which one always feels in a wilderness, amongst rough, uncivilized strangers. But not so; that large city, with a wealthy community, with all the signs of civilization, is in a most barbarous state; Carrera, the bandit, is in her walls, with his undisciplined Indian multitude, to whom the safety and lives of the citizens are entrusted. There is no feeling of security, except in the interior of the houses which, having been built with a view to resist the violence of earthquakes, may be able also to resist the attacks of Carrera's lawless soldiers.

The

There are three cities of the name of Guatimala, at no very considerable distance from each other: Guatimala la Vieja, Guatimala la Antigua, and Guatimala la Nueva; the first, which is also called Ciudad Vieja, was destroyed in 1741 by the Volcan del'Agua. Guatimala la Antigua, after having suffered a number of times from pestilence and earthquakes, was finally destroyed by the latter in 1774. seat of government was then transferred to the place where Guatimala la Nueva now stands. Here, then, are ruins of a large and beautiful city, whose foundations were laid by the successors of Alvarado, one of the Conquistadores, who, with Cortes, had conquered the magnificent city of Mexico, and subdued the powerful Montezuma. In beholding the ruins of modern and ancient cities, in this part of the world, where nature seems to delight in destroying the proudest works of art, and man has to struggle against the irresistible power of volcanic eruptions, both igneous and aqueous, as well as of earthquakes, our feelings are divided between admiration of human perseverance, and pity for human blind

ness. Guatimala la Nueva was not founded before 1774. This beautiful city, which Mr. Stephens compares to the finest in Italy, is situate in a climate of eternal spring, and surrounded with the most splendid beauties of nature, and built, moreover, with taste, and with careful regard to architectural effect and comfort and salubrity. Small brooks run through the midst of the streets, and the houses are provided with gardens and fountains, receiving the pure water of the mountains through an aqueduct. Who would not expect to find in such a place all the tranquillity, comforts, and enjoyment of a civilized capital? Earthquakes have not thrown down its walls, but they stand, and seem to be safe against concussions of nature. But social agitations here keep alive the fears of the inhabitants, as earthquakes formerly did in Guatimala Antigua-Carrera and Morazan play the parts which heretofore were played by the two volcanoes of water and fire.

Notwithstanding the disorganized state of the country and its capital, the latter presents a rich field for the pencil of an essentially descriptive writer, like Mr. Stephens. There is still one strong tie which, being attached to the very heart, alike of poor and rich, of aristocrats and democrats, of soldiers and civilians, still makes the population one, whatever causes of discord there may be on other accounts. This tie

is religion, or superstition, as some men call it. While, in government matters, parties stand against parties, Indians against whites, Carrera against Morazan, and persecute each other with all the fury of a civil war, let the church bells ring for a fête in the temple, or a procession in the streets, at once all the inhabitants without fear mingle with each other, kneel upon the floor with the same humility and devotion, decorate the streets with bunches of green leaves and flowers, and strew the pavement with pine leaves wherever the procession is to pass. The ragged soldiers of the Indian chief lay down their arms, and forget, in the solemnity of the organ and the fragrance of the incense, that they are amid people whom they are wont to look upon as enemies. Does not this prove that the only spring, or at least the most powerful that can as yet command the movements of this automatic mass, is religion? We must therefore object to the sentiment of the following passage: "The central party consisted of a few leading families, which, by reason of certain privileges of monopoly for importations under the old Spanish