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the multitude below saw only the flat sterile desert in which they had so long wandered, bounded on every side by a near horizon, or diversified only by some deceitful mirage, he was gazing from a far higher stand, on a far lovelier country,-following with his eye the long course of fertilizing rivers, through ample pastures, and under the bridges of great capitals,—measuring the distances of marts and havens, and portioning out all those wealthy regions from Dan to Beersheba.

survey of a life placidly, honorably, beneficently passed, 'in industrious observations, grounded conclusions, and profitable inventions and discoveries,'* with feelings very different from those with which we now turn away from the checkered spectacle of so much glory and so much shame.

* From a letter of Bacon to Lord Burleigh."

JOURNAL

OF A TRIP TO THE MOUNTAINS, CAVES AND SPRINGS

OF VIRGINIA.

By a New-Englander.

TO CHARLES E. SHERMAN, Esq., of Mobile, Ala. These fragments of a Diary, kept during a tour made in his society, are respectfully and affectionately inscribed, by his friend and fellow-traveller, THE AUTHOR.

-Virginia! Yet I own

I love thee still, although no son of thine!
For I have climbed thy mountains, not alone,--
And made the wonders of thy vallies mine;
Finding, from morning's dawn till day's decline,
Some marvel yet unmarked,--some peak, whose throne
Was loftier,-girt with mist, and crowned with pine:
Some deep and rugged glen, with copse o'ergrown,
The birth of some sweet valley, or the line
Traced by some silver stream that murmurs lone:
Or the dark cave, where hidden crystals shine,
Or the wild arch, across the blue sky thrown.
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Wilde.

It is painful to turn back from contemplating Bacon's philosophy to contemplate his life. Yet without so turning back it is impossible fairly to estimate his powers. He left the University at an earlier age than that at which most people repair thither. While yet a boy he was plunged into the midst of diplomatic business. Thence he passed to the study of a vast technical system of law, and worked his way up through a succession of laborious offices to the highest post in his profession. In the meantime he took an active part in every Parliament; he was an adviser of the Crown; he paid court with the greatest assiduity and address to all whose favor was likely to be of use to him; he lived much in society; he noted the slightest peculiarities of character and the slightest changes of fashion. Scarcely any man has led a more stirring life than that which Bacon led from sixteen to sixty. Scarcely any man has been better entitled to be called a thorough man of the world. The founding of a new philosophy, the imparting of a new direction to the minds of speculators,— this was the amusement of his leisure, the work of hours occasionally stolen from the Woolsack and the Council Board. This consideration, while it increases the admiration with which we regard his intellect, increases also our regret that such an intellect should so often have been unworthily employed. He well knew the better course, and had, at one time, resolved to pursue it. 'I confess,' said he in a letter written when he was still young, 'that I have as vast contemplative ends as I have moderate civil ends.' Had his civil ends conti-Richmond-Hotels-Ride over the Blue Ridge-Fellow Travelnued to be moderate, he would have been, not only the Moses, but the Joshua of philosophy. He would have fulfilled a large part of his own magnificent predictions. He would have led his followers, not only to the verge, but into the heart of the promised land. He would not Richmond, Va. July 15, 1835. merely have pointed out, but would have divided the I entered Richmond, prepared (from the river view) spoil. Above all, he would have left not only a great, to be delighted with it; but the landing, and the probut a spotless name. Mankind would then have been gress to the Eagle Hotel on Main street, amid huts and able to esteem their illustrious benefactor. We should hovels, and over a pavement, which formed of stones of not then be compelled to regard his character with min- all shapes and sizes, seems made to rack one's bones, gled contempt and admiration,—with mingled aversion and for naught else, worked a thorough disappointment and gratitude. We should not then regret that there in my mind. A walk through the city has convinced should be so many proofs of the narrowness and selfish- me, however, that my first impressions were not erroness of a heart, the benevolence of which was yet large neous. Richmond is composed seemingly, of an old enough to take in all races and all ages. We should not and new "town," like Edinburg. The lower portion then have to blush for the disingenuousness of the most of the city is old, dirty, and in many parts dilapidated. devoted worshipper of speculative truth,-for the ser- It is the business or mercantile part of the town, and is vility of the boldest champion of intellectual freedom. certainly stirring and active enough. The upper or We should not then have seen the same man at one hill portion, in the immediate vicinity of the Capitol, time far in the van, and at another time far in the rear is, on the other hand, very beautiful. Splendid resi of his generation. We should not then be forced to dences, well laid out streets, delightful walks, a most own, that he who first treated legislation as a science enchanting prospect of James river, winding its way was among the last Englishmen who used the rack,-among wooded shores, like a silver thread crossing an that he who first summoned philosophers to the great work of interpreting nature was among the last Englishmen who sold justice. And we should conclude our

CHAPTER II.

lers-Charlottesville--Monticello-Wirt's "Blind Preacher" -An accident--Warm Springs-The Baths--The Host-A Legend of the Spring-The Nabob's departure-The Moun tain excursion---Ladylike feats.

emerald, characterise it as fully deserving all the merit and beauty its citizens and admirers claim for it. The Capitol stands on the highest point of land in Rich

mond, facing the river, and presenting a most elegant an acquaintance with each other. The old planter front-a Grecian portico, extending the whole width, knew the Judge, the Judge knew Monsieur, and Monthe pediment of which is supported by Ionic columns sieur was well acquainted with the student; the wayof beautiful material and structure. The entrances to bill, (which, by invariable custom in these parts, is the public halls are at the wings; and those to the always carried in a little tin case under the forward offices connected with the government, are in the front seat of the coach,) told the rest, upon being consulted basement. The portico forms a splendid promenade. |at sly intervals,—and by some means or other, (they A sentinel, in the uniform of the state, is constantly manage these things nobly in the "Old Dominion,") patrolling the gravel walk that surrounds this building, ere dinner time, we were all as well acquainted, as if which contains a celebrated statue of Washington, we had known each other for years. The tobacco This work I did not see, as the halls are not now open, grower was an original: Virginian to the back-bone, and the keeper was not easily accessible. Directly in and declared that Judge Tucker ought to be the suc the rear of the Capitol, is the City Court House--and cessor of John Marshall, because he was the only other this is also a fine building of the same material-a har-Judge he knew of in Virginia! He talked of his crops, dened stucco a good imitation of freestone, or granite.* One should always go the "Powhatan House," on coming to Richmond. It is kept by Mrs. Duvall, and is on the scale of the Tremont House. It is situated on Capitol Hill, and combines all the advantages I have attempted to describe, as peculiarly belonging to that vicinity as a residence. The grounds surrounding the Capitol are always open to the people, who make them a thoroughfare. Approaching the Capitol through them from the lower town, you get a view of the building among the trees, more beautiful than any coup d'œil of the kind I ever saw, excepting those which abound from every point of view on the Boston common. Through these walks you reach the "Powhatan House," whence I should at this moment have been writing instead of Virginian-frank, open, hospitable, cordial and even the Eagle, had not my hack-driver solemnly assured "Massa" that there was no other tavern in the city. Let my fate be a warning to future travellers. Let them think of Pocahontas, and go to the Powhatan.†

which he has sold for three years ahead, in Richmond ;of the Anti-Slavery movements at the North-of the comfortable condition of his slaves,—and of Garrison, of whom he seemed to think as the Scots do of "Auld Clootie." He is of the firm opinion that G. could not possibly get through this part of the country alive. The old gentleman left us before our arrival at my present quarters, being pressed thereto by an old acquaintance on the road.

The Judge I found to be a gentleman of the old school; easy in his address, though dignified in his manner, as became a judge and a gentleman, upon so short an acquaintance. But all reserve wore off apace, and I discovered him to be what I have ever fancied a

hearty in his intercourse with those around him. He was very entertaining, full of anecdote, proud of his State, as all his countrymen are, free from sectional prejudices, as all his countrymen are not, and altogether the most agreeable travelling companion it has ever Blue Ridge, July 16. been my fortune to encounter. He is a half brother I packed up yesterday morning, and took stage for of the late John Randolph of Roanoke, and connected the Mountains, in company with Judge Tucker, going by marriage with several of the principal families in to Lewisburg to hold a Court of Appeals, with a fine Virginia. He is an honest, worthy, upright man, a good old specimen of the real Virginia tobacco planter, a constitutional lawyer, an intelligent, discriminating, and half domesticated son of France, who has for some experienced judge, and although by reason of the artime been teaching his native language in Richmond, duous nature of his official duties he is not an active and a young South Carolinian, who is going to White politician, yet he is well known in this section of the Sulphur to pass the vacation of the University of Vir- country, as a profound venerator of our constitution, ginia. The morning was lowering, but soon cleared, devotedly attached to the institutions of his country, and by the middle of the forenoon the day was quite and to the Union; and in short, as a politician of the pleasant. The immediate environs of the capital of Washington school. Easy in his address, affable, acVirginia are by no means picturesque or attractive, and, cessible, and agreeable to strangers, gentlemanly in although they presented me with a view of several manner, generous and hospitable in feeling, he adds all country residences of gentlemen, some of whom are the private virtues possessed by the late Chief Justice, highly distinguished, they disclosed nothing deserving to the same devoted attachment to his profession, the of a particular description. The first part of the ride same reverence for the law and the constitution, and was passed in that dull, monotonous, reserved style the same unwearied research into their nature, and the which is characteristic of all unexpected meetings of means of their perpetuation and proper administration. people from various quarters of the country; but to- I write here from experience and common fame. A wards noon we had warmed into something very like journey of some days in his society, and the universal Much of the Court House is built of stone, as the pillars, accord of his fellow-citizens, afford me the means of foundation, corners, cornices, door and window frames, &c-bearing this willing, though weak tribute to his virtues

[Ed Mess.

The Powhatan still maintains its high character, and the Eagle has much improved. There are also now a number of other extensive and well-conducted houses of entertainment in Richmond. Mrs. Ellzey's Virginia House, Mrs. Richardson's, and Mrs. Claiborne's Marshall House, stand very high. The Hotels too, are generally creditable to the city: the Union, Bell, Columbian, and Earley's, are justly quite popular down town, while the Washington and Swan maintain their credit on the bill-[Ed. Mess.

in private and public life.

The most amusing specimen of a true Frenchman I have ever met was Monsieur H, my other travelling companion. He was a perfect bibliomaniac. Not a book was alluded to, that he did not instantly say 'I have it!' and the merits of which he did not proceed immediately to discuss; and not only did he pretend to an intimate knowledge of the contents, but in almost

every instance, of the author also of the work alluded | of the faculty, and the cabins or dormitories of the stuto. Among others of his whims, he said he had in his dents, and at the head of which is the great hall conpossession as many as a hundred and fifty volumes of taining the library, and the recitation rooms. American poetry! And on our asking him what he intended to do with them, he told us he was going to Paris ere long, and intended to present them to some public library there. What an unanticipated apotheosis is this, for the sixteen and thirty-two-mos of American bards, with which our prolific press has so long been teeming. Next to France, Monsieur thinks very highly of America, and believes Benjamin Franklin has done more for our land than George Washington. He diverges shortly from our onward route, to view the natural bridge and the caves of Virginia. He is a comical little genius.

This is perhaps as beautiful a structure as could be made of red brick. Its portico is ornamented with columns of the Corinthian order, while the piazzas of the lateral buildings have those of the Doric and Ionic orders. This mingling of architecture produces an outre and unpleasing effect upon the eye of the observer, and is regarded universally as a failure to produce what its founder intended it to be, the finest building in Virginia. This institution is now in a flourishing condition. We parted with our amusing French companion here;— and took up a gentleman from Mississippi, and another from Southern Virginia, returning home by the way of the Sulphur Springs.

Our ride to-day has been delightful. We have been passing through a rich and productive country, and the fine crops of corn, and grain, and grass,-the splendid foliage of vigorous forests, in which are observable all varieties of trees, common and rare, the well built and well stocked farms, with here and there a country seat, situated in the midst of plenty and high cultivation, have all combined to render the prospect pleasing in the highest degree. During the afternoon, we have been constantly ascending the first hills of the Blue Ridge, and are now quietly settling ourselves to repose, with an assurance of more lovely prospects and more rich

Warm Springs, July 17.

The day has been very fine, and my ride among these picturesque mountains more charming than I can describe. The prospects on all sides of my path have been varied and enchanting. The hills forming the Blue Ridge, the South River Range, and the Warm Spring Mountains, are undulating and woody, and enclose the traveller in a beautiful succession of well

We had a fine road, a fine driver, and an elegant new coach, as our comforts to-day,-offsetting which-for all pleasure is dashed with pain-we were called to encounter the most sudden and violent storm of rain and hail it was ever the lot of a Virginian, (so said the planter,) to abide. It streamed down in torrents from the thickening clouds, from noon to sunset. The tobacco grounds, the corn, and wheat were deluged, and the little fordable streams that occasionally crossed our path were swelled to a formidable height. At about an hour before sunset, we came to the "Little Bird" river, which we all agreed must be impassable, and after an hour's parley, the driver, who was conscientious on the score of Uncle Sam's bags, gave in, and we went back | enjoyments on the morrow. a mile to a small farm-house, where an acquaintance of our tobacco raiser resided. He hospitably provided us with a good supper, and spread bedding for us upon the floor of the best room in his humble cabin, and there, Judge, Planter, Student, Monsieur, Driver, and I, turned in en masse, and slept soundly till the moon rose. At about two this morning, we again set off, found the stream passable, and by breakfast time discovered that after all, we were only about four hours behind our time of arrival at the usual place of stop-cultivated intervales, through which runs a turnpike ping. Here, (the morning being fine,) we had a splendid first view of the Blue Ridge,--the first chain or range of the Alleghanies which the traveller from the North approaches. A blue hazy mist hung over them, not concealing them in the least degree, but forming a thin transparent veil, through which their regular slope and wooded sides were beautifully disclosed. I found the Judge an invaluable aid in pointing out the best views, the most pleasing prospects, and the most pic-place first. Major M—, whom we took up this turesque points of view, from which the landscape could be observed. Interspersed with all his descriptions of natural scenery, and the different localities through which we passed, he delighted us by the narration of several personal anecdotes, which were indeed quite amusing, as well as strikingly illustrative of the country. We passed Charlottesville, the seat of the Uni-Springs, which comes first upon the road, and after versity of Virginia, and Monticello, the residence of Jefferson, both of which we admired as much as the blending of all orders of architecture in the one, and the elevated location of the other, would permit. The This afternoon we passed the house of Mr. Waddell, present proprietor of Monticello, is not a favorite in the son of the celebrated Blind Preacher, so patheticalthat neighborhood-his improvements on the estate are ly described by Mr. Wirt in his Letters of a British pronounced as tasteless, and his rules and regulations Spy. I looked at him with deep interest, as he was as to the admission of visiters, pompous and absurd. pointed out to me, standing on his door step, apparently The University is a collection of brick buildings, form- a wealthy and enterprising farmer. Pursuing our way, ing a square; on one side of which are the residences we were suddenly alarmed by the breaking of the perch

road, smooth, well graduated, and level, for fifty or sixty miles. I know no better roads in New England than those from Charlottesville to this place have proved.

We have heard all along the road that the White Sulphur Springs are overflowing with visiters, and divers plans entertained us as we rode on, having for their object some relief for ourselves, who were going to that

morning, and who saw service in the last war, was for erecting a regular camp, cantonment, or bivouac on the spot, sending out regular foraging parties, and bidding defiance to the chances of our deprivation of bed and board, that seemed to be threatening us. But the majority of our party decided to wait awhile at the Warm

spending some time there, and bathing in those mild waters, to pursue our way to the Hot, and afterwards to look in upon the denser crowd at the White Sulphur.

have been subjected ever since my arrival at this place. There is no deficiency of the pure element here, how. ever,--a perennial spring of freestone water constantly flowing from a spring of unequalled coolness and purity. July 18.

of our stage coach, and were obliged to walk about a mile to have it repaired. This was done at a farm house in the possession of an honest Virginian, who made great boast as we walked along together, (for he was near, at the happening of the accident,) of his being able to do any thing. By his aid we were soon again on our way, which carried us through mountain gaps, and over mountain tops, along a road every moment increasing in charming prospects, until we had attained the last of the range to be passed to-day. From its summit we looked down into a well cultivated valley, near the centre of which was a neat settlement, gathered around the Warm Springs. Here we stopped, and parting company with the Judge, the Major, and the Student, who went to the next county, we quietly settled our--and while I float quietly on mine, he sits beside me selves down in this haven of rest, and, as we hope, health, delighted that we had attained such an enviable stage in our long journey.

I have already taken one bath in these celebrated waters. At a little distance from the Hotel is a hexagonal wooden building, erected over an area of about two hundred yards in circumference, filled with clear | spring water, constantly rising and flowing off, leaving about five feet depth in a hollow basin,—the temperature of which is about 97 degrees Fahrenheit. The ladies and gentlemen have every two alternate hours, from sunrise until ten at night, appropriated to them for bathing,—and these hours are almost constantly employed. I cannot describe to you the luxury of bathing in these springs. They seem to be the waters of

Eden, clear, soft, transparent, mild, healthful, and full of delight. The sulphate of magnesia forms the basis of their mineral properties, and they are said to be exceedingly efficacious in cases of rheumatism and similar complaints. Of this more hereafter.

Our hotel is kept by a very accommodating landlord by the name of Fry. His establishment is unexceptionable. Good beds, good rooms, good servants, and good fare, (all of them rare enough in this region, and most of them, it is said, very deficient at White Sulphur,) are here to be enjoyed by the traveller. The house stands in the centre of a productive intervale, on every side surrounded by densely wooded mountains, and commanding an extensive and varied prospect, on every hand. There is a great deal of company here,—| though less than at the Sulphur Springs, forty-five miles further in the interior. The visiters to this Springs country are not content with the first series on their route, but as it is the fashion to go where the crowd is most dense, and the accommodations most scanty, they pass by this delightful locale, and fare worse at the most crammed and crowded resort. Fashion, and a desire to see whatever is to be seen, will doubtless attract us thither also for a few days, but not until the use of these health-giving waters has given us more strength and nerve than we now possess.

I would advise the visiter to this part of the country to provide himself bottles of water at those places on his journey where it is good, and such as he has been used to drink at home. This can always be made cool and in fitting order to use, as all the stopping places abound with ice. The lime-stone water, which is common from Richmond to the Springs, is apt to have a powerful effect upon the system of one unused to it; and to its effects I attribute a violent illness to which

I

The gray-haired keeper of the Great Bath entertains me at times with his account of old days in Virginia,— the incidents which he can remember as happening during the revolution and the first Presidency,-anecdotes of Washington and Jefferson,-descriptions of the great men he has seen and known, or heard of and never seen-and legends of his own infantile years, that come to him as he chatters about things and times that are nearer, until he is at length in the old man's element,

and rocks to and fro, as if inspired, upon his. In one of those moods, this morning, he told me of the discovery of the spring which was bubbling up around me, and from the clear waters of which I was gathering health and strength, and freedom from pain. I cannot repeat the old man's very words; but nearly thus his legend went :

coming from the western valley of the great AppalachA young Indian, more than two centuries ago, was ian chain of mountains, towards the waters of the east, that opened into the beautiful bay whose branches now touch the strands of some of the mightiest marts of a nation that was not then in existence. He had never trodden that path before, and nothing but the pride of youth which would not brook that his brethren of other tribes should triumph over him as their inferior in adventure, had sustained his manly heart so far; for he had come, since the rising sun first touched, that day, the mighty peaks of the Alleghanies, from the vales that lay at their feet on the west. He was going to carry the voice and vote of a powerful nation to the council-fire that was kindling on the banks of the great water, and he felt shame at the recurrence of the idea that the place of the Young Appalachian Leopard could be vacant. But the night winds beat coldly around him, and his way was dark. There had been rains, and the earth heather were at hand with which to make a bed in the was damp and swampy; and no grass, or fern, or bosom of the valley where he stood. He had not strength to climb the near range of mountains that threw up their summits before him, as if to shut out all hope that he could accomplish his ardent desire. Weary, dispirited, and ready to despair, he came suddenly upon an open space among the low underwood that covered

the valley where he was wandering, and upon looking narrowly, he observed that it was filled with water. He could see the clear reflection of the bright evening star that was just declining to her rest, and that was peeping

into the fountain,

"Like a bride full of blushes, just ling'ring to take A last look in her mirror, at night ere she goes." By this translucent reflection he could perceive that the water was clear, and its depth he could discern by the pebbles that glistened in the starlight from the bottom. He saw too that the water was continually flowing off, and supplying a stream that ran rippling away among the roots of the old oaks that surrounded the spot-and as he stooped to taste the liquid element, he found it warm as if inviting him to relax his chilled limbs by

bathing in its tepid bosom. He laid aside his bow and quiver, unstrung his pouch from his brawny shoulder, took off his moccasins, and plunged in. A new life invigorated his wearied sprit, new strength seemed given to his almost rigid nerves; he swam, he dived, he lay prostrate for hours upon the genial waves, in a sort of dreamy ecstacy of delight; and when the first dawn of day broke over the rock-crowned hill, at the foot of which the Spring of Strength lay enshrined, the Young Leopard came forth from his watery couch, and donning his simple array, strode proudly up the mountain, "where path there was none." He was "a young giant rejoicing to run his course,"-full of new fire and vigor he manfully sped on his way—and upon the eve of that day, when the chiefs and the sons of chiefs were seated around the solemn council fire, no one of them all was found more graceful in address, more commanding in manner, more pleasing in look, and more sagacious in policy, than the Young Appalachian Leopard, who bathed in the Spring of Strength.

July 21.

The life of an invalid at a watering place is dull and monotonous enough, if he be left to himself, without books, without acquaintance, and without the power to brave all weathers in pursuit of amusement. The first a sensible traveller will always carry with him,-the second such a one can never be at a loss to find, and, as to the latter, he must seek in the other two resources for

that which shall stand him in its stead.

meantime, the horses are harnessed in pairs, but singly and with great deliberation, to the respective vehicles: each in turn, by couples, and collectively, are criticised, and praised, and appraised, and curiosity stands on tiptoe to see what is coming next.-Behold another branch of the cavalcade approaches! Three horses, saddled and bridled, champing the rein, reproving delay, and ready to claim their proportion of the day's glory. After due time has been given to admire the new comers sufficiently, the lord of the whole approaches the barouche with an air of half-subdued mysteriousness, opens the box, and takes thence a something that baffles the curiosity of the most knowing. What is it? What can it be? Unheeding the commotion he has raised, our Georgian proceeds to screw the non-descript article upon the top of one of the saddles of the last arrived horses, and to exchange the left stirrup for a shorter and a lighter one: and presto! a side-saddle stands revealed to the wondering gaze of stupified mankind.

The preparations are complete. The laudable curiosity of the crowd has been raised to the highest possible point. Tom has seated himself on the box of the phaeton, and Bill upon the dickey of the barouche. The cigar is stuck between our hero's teeth,—his pretty wife is lifted on the transformed saddle,-two "friends of the family" mount the remaining two, the nurse and baby are hoisted with the baggage into the barouche, the planter takes his most confidential crony with him into the phaeton, and all dash down the hill before the house together, as fine a cavalcade as any since the The varied scene that may be viewed from my land-days of Gilpin. The crowd disperse, the piazza belord John Fry's long piazza, any fair morning or evening, does not comprehend alone a prospect of hills and vallies, of rocks and trees, and gushing springs, but there is mingled in the view a study, more interesting while it lasts, and perhaps more useful in the lessons it teaches. I have just returned from a listless saunter along the colonnade, where I have been watching the departure of a Georgia gentleman with his family for the North. He certainly presented the most curious specimen of that mixed genus of gentleman and jockey which may often be observed among our countrymen, it has ever been my lot to encounter.

At an early hour in the morning, a phaeton was brought up to the door by a black, (without horses,) and underwent the process of loading. Trunks, bandboxes, bundles, umbrellas, et id omne genus, were nicely stowed away in every nook,-when up comes another black dragging a large barouche, doomed to undergo the same process of stuffing. The boys and negroes assemble round, one by one, and squad by squad, displaying all that curiosity for which youth and Yankees are renowned. The little nabob at length issues forth from his breakfast, and with his own hands brings out a natty pair of black colts he had been buying as he came along they were not broken to harness, and were to be led behind the barouche and phaeton. Mark the glee with which he shows them off,-he pats them, trots them out before the assembled gaping multitude,-and

comes deserted, -the bad points of the horses, the prominent faults and peculiarities of their owner, and the imperfections, real and imaginary, of the whole concern, seem one by one to come most marvellously to light,-and the voices loudest but now in praise, are swiftest and most ingenious in censure. Soon, however, the whole thing is forgotten: another nabob will come among the same crowd, sport his horses, his jests, his bets, and his purse,-move the sluggish waters of idle curiosity, till they run in waves mountain-high,—and in his turn dash off, down that very hill, to leave them once more to subside. Telle est la vie !

To a dweller at a watering-place no incident is really trifling; and the parting array of a Southern planter from the piazza of a mountain inn is not a scene to be forgotten suddenly.

July 22.

Believing that I may now venture to speak ex cathedra upon the nature, character and virtues of the Warm Springs, at which I have been for some days sojourning, I shall attempt to journalise some idea of this most de

licious bath.

You enter the village formed by the accidental collocation of some six or eight residences, (of which that of the proprietor of the hotel, Mr. Fry, is the principal) its feet. The road is perfect: being skilfully graded, over a mountain called after the Springs, embedded at and as smooth as if McAdamized. The gentleman of Boston who takes a horseback ride, upon an afternoon, Than Caesar, with a Senate at his heels!" over the mill-dam, is not more highly favored as to the The colts are admired,—the taste of their purchaser road, than is the traveller upon this turnpike across the applauded, and they are confided to the care of the Alleghanies. The entrance to this little village is deattendant satellites, who feel proud of the honor of lightful. As you wind around the descending path, being permitted to hold them by the halter. In the you catch glimpses of the white colonnade running the

"More true joy Marcellus feels,

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