their fear of its effects. Add to this, that the Government interefts itself greatly in behalf of foreigners, and punishes any infult on them, much more feverely than if committed on a Roman.

On the whole, our Author's account of the modern Romans is a very difadvantageous one; as well with regard to the moral as the phyfical character of that people; they being reprefented as no lefs deteftable on account of their infincerity and cruelty, than contemptible for their indolence, cowardice and vanity.

Of the character and manners of the Neapolitans, Mr. Richard gives the following account. "The prefent nobility of Naples feem to entertain but little of that spirit of revolt and independence, which fo greatly diftinguished their ancestors, and of which we have even had fome inftances within the prefent century. Their manners are less rigid, and their converfation more eafy and polite. There is little gallantry, however, practifed in high-life at Naples. The regularity of manners, which hath prevailed at court, for near twenty years paft, having given a great check to the former diffoluteness of the Neapolitan nobility; or at leaft, laying them under the neceffity of keeping their intrigues of this kind very fecret. Their affemblies are numerous and brilliant; they play high and are permitted to indulge themfelves in all kinds of games whether of fkill or chance.'

Of the citizens, or fecond rank of people at Naples, our Author fpeaks with refpect of the Neapolitans in general, however, he feems to defpair of giving the Reader an adequate idea. "This nation, fays he, is fo much at variance with itfelf, that it is hardly to be conceived how it could ever afford the fhadow of fuch a revolution, as was effected by the famous Mafficnello. The common people, indeed, are perpetually employed in calumniating and reviling each other; carrying their brutality fo far as to brand one another with the most odious vices; and piquing themfelves highly on their talents for abufe. It is with tome reafon, therefore, they have been long confidered as one of the most barbarous and miferable nations of Europe. Difingenuous to the laft degree, there is no trufting them in any tranfaction of commerce or otherwise and yet, for the fake of money, and to indulge their natural idlenefs, they will defcend to the most infamous species of traffic. It is by no means rare, to fee a Neapolitan father make a practice of felling the honour of his daughters, or for a husband to live by the prostitution of his wife. Add to this, that the Neapolitans are flothful and flovenly to a proverb; which is fo much the more to be regretted, as their perfons are, for the most part, tall and well made: fo that, if decently attired, they would make a fine figure; at leaft thofe of them who are

not

not maimed and mutilated by the fhameful effects of their infamous debaucheries. But this is the cafe with fo many of them, that it is no wonder it gave rife to the vulgar faying, current over Europe; Naples is a paradife, inhabited by devils."

After giving them this appellation, our Abbé proceeds to a defcription of their religious deportment; which, it must be owned, is grofs and indeed diabolical enough.

There is little, in the external appearance of religion at Naples, confiftent with a facred folemnity; efpecially in the behaviour of the multitude that attend on divine worship. The vulgarity, which is common to their other actions, accompanies them to the fanctuary; where they come, for a quarter of an hour, on Sundays and Feftivals, to hear Mafs; and behave in the most indecent and irreligious manner imaginable. Not having the leaft idea of devotion, they rufh tumultuously into the church; placing themselves on the firft bench they fee empty, or standing up together in companies, talking about indifferent affairs. At their entrance, indeed, they give a formal nod to the altar, or kifs their hand to the image of the Saint, whofe feftival is celebrated after which, I obferved that both high and low ufually kept their feat; never troubling themselves with what paffed, till the elevation of the host called upon them again for another nod. Nay I have feen rude fellows turn into ridicule, and laugh at, ftrangers who knelt down devoutly during the celebration of Mafs. Not that even the groffeft of thefe people are without their favourite Saints and private practices of devotion; to which they are attached even to a degree of fanaticifm bordering on brutality. I remember in particular seeing a furious old woman, in the Church of St. Thomas Aquinas, fwearing and curfing at a Madona, placed in one of the niches, for having difappointed her on fome interesting occafion, by not hearing her prayers, or refusing to comply with them. It was well for the poor Madona (which by the way was a fine image) that he was fecured by an iron grating; or the old virago would have certainly demo→ lifhed her."

"The great object of popular devotion at Naples is the li quefaction of the blood of St. Januarius, their patron. This is effected twice a year, in the Months of May and September. The time, even to the very hour, being known, in which this miracle is to be exhibited'; an innumerable multitude affemble about the chapel of the Saint, or to the place where the pro

Such is the influence of cuftom, and the natural difpofition of a people! We have seen, in like manner, a parcel of Dutch boors infult. a ftranger, who thought decency required him to fit without his hat, while their Domine was preaching.

M m 4

ceffion

cefion is to difplay the folemnity. Here they begin to invoke the Saint, with confufed exclamations and extravagant geftures; beating their breafts, and crying out, by thoufands, for him to work the miracle: which if he does not effect immediately, they repeat their exclamations in the most obftreperous tones of impatience and refentment; calling out on all fides San Genaro fa dunque preflo: that is to fay, prithee make hafte, Saint January. If after this, the miracle should unluckily be delayed, and any foreigner happen to be in the crowd, whofe figure fhould displease the populace, it is ten to one but they take him for an Heretic, whofe prefence interrupts the operation of the miracle. In which cafe, he is certain to be pulled to pieces; though perhaps he may happen to be all the while a good Catholic: fo, at leaft, it happened lately to a principal domestic of a foreign ambaffador; who was even on his knees in the middle of the street, on this occafion: but, because he was thought to have rather a look of curiosity than expectation, and withal did not cry out San Genaro fa prefto, he was remarked; and in a minute received a ftab from almost every one, that could reach him with a ftiletto. After the outrage was committed, indeed, and the miracle over, fome people expressed a little regret; efpecially on finding a chaplet in the pocket of the deceafed; by which they were very fure he was a good Catholic *."

A fimilar fatality, we are told, had like to have befallen an acquaintance of our Author; who, being a miffionary of the French congregation, was fufpected by his dress to be a pricft of the Oratory, and confequently a fanfenift. This gentleman, however, we may fuppofe to have been too deep in the fecret of the miracle, to rifk his life in fecing it accomplished; he therefore prudentially and timely withdrew.

Of the Venetians, our traveller gives a more refpectable idea than in general hath been entertained of that people; the voluptuoufnefs of whofe manners hath been thought to counterballance the wisdom of their government and constitution. He obferves, in particular, that the young nobility, and other perfons of fortune, do not fo familiarly confort with the courte

This circumftance puts our Author in mind of the fituation, in which the celebrated Leibnitz or ce found himself in a little voyage on the Adriatic. Being on board a fmall fhip, bound from Venice to Ancona: and meeting with a violent form, he overheard the feamen, who took him for an Heretic, confulting whether they thould not throw him overboard, to appease the tempeft: upon which he pulled out a chaplet and crucifix (very neceffary implements for a Proteftant travelling in Catholic countries) and began to tell his beads very devoutly. This was fufficiert; the mariners were convinced he was no Jonas, and plied their fails til they arrived fafe at their deftined haven.

zans

zans as formerly; the latter being fallen into much greater contempt than that in which they were used to be held. On the other hand, the ladies of rank receive and pay vifits, as in France, England and elsewhere; holding affemblies, to which the gentlemen are freely admitted; so that the jealousy and reserve, formerly fubfifting between the virtuous part of both fexes, are in a great degree removed. In confequence of this reformation, we are told the ladies are more happy and the gentlemen more polite; neither of them running the temptation and rifk, they ufed to lie under, either from gaming or gallantry. Not, fays our Author, that the profeffion of a courtezan is prohibited at Venice as it is at Rome; they are ftill under the protection of the government, who will not permit them to be cheated or infulted. Nay they are not yet become even infamous; perfons of all ranks and conditions, going openly to their miferable retreats, and enquiring their way to them with the fame unconcern as they would ask their way to a church *.

Of the manners of the Florentines, M. Richard gives an agreeable defcription; although he does not reprefent their general character as very respectable. He obferves, in particular, the prepofiction they entertain, particularly the ladies, for the English nation; many individuals of which, he fays, are tempted to purchafe houfes and refide there for a confiderable time; chiefly induced by motives of perfonal attachment.

Of the Milanefe, our Author gives a very favourable account, and alfo of the Genoefe; under which latter article he takes occafion to fpeak of the origin of that ftrange office and character of a Citifbeo; which is fo well known in Italy, and for which the Italians have been fo often rallied by the other nations of Europe. An Italian Cicifbeo, according to our Author, owes his exiftence to the fame principle as that of the Spanish Duenna, viz. the jealoufy of the hufband. It was formerly the cuftom, he fays, for the bridegroom to make choice of fome difcreet and intimate friend; in whom he confided, as the incorruptible guardian of conjugal fidelity. It is natural to fuppofe thefe guardians to have been generally pretty far advanced in years, and not of the most promifing figure and accomplishments; unless indeed we are to conceive the tie of honour, in the primitive Cicifbeos, fo great, as to defeat the influence of perfonal charms, affifted both by time and oppor

Of the Venetian carnivals, whofe diverfion hath been fo mightily enhanced by fome Writers, the Abbé Richard gives an account, by no means calculated to excite the curiosity of thefe, who have been used to the more fprightly and amuung entertainments of fome other coun

trics.

tunity.

tunity. But, as every thing, fays our Author, however well intended, degenerates into abuse, circumstances are now entirely altered, and it is as requifite to have the cicifbeo as agreeable to the wife as to the husband. The choice of this very friendly domeftic, is now become a family affair, and is fettled with the marriage-articles: for when he is once chofen, he is feldom or ever changed; fo that a lady is greatly to be pitied, whofe cicifbeo happens to prove difagreeable to her. At Lucca, we are told, their office is in higher esteem, than in any other part of Italy: it being common to find some of them, who have ferved their respective miftreffes for forty or fifty years together; and, who feem externally as affiduous to oblige them as the youngest of their profeffion. Their custom is to attend the lady, wherever fhe goes, to affift at her toilette, and to follow her even to confeffion, where his office is to hold hei fan, her gloves, her prayer-book, and her lap-dog.

In treating of the fate of Sciences and the polite arts, that of mufic and the Italian theatre naturally takes up a confiderable fhare of the Writer's attention. It is at Venice, he says, that mufic is carried to the highest degree of perfection; particuJarly with regard to the execution both vocal and inftrumental. At the time he happened to be there, indeed, the actors at all the opera-houfes were but indifferent. This does not prevent his giving the fuperiority to their theatrical entertainments above thofe of Rome. In the theatres of the latter, he observes that, women are never permitted to come on the ftage, either as fingers or dancers: the female characters in their operas being reprefented by eunuchs; who, though many of them have angelic voices, are fo aukward in their carriage and gefture, that, to be able to hear them with any pleasure, one ought always to fhut ones eyes. At Naples, he remarks that the opera is extremely fuperb; that they have the finest voices and the finest mufic; he intimates, however, that it is conducted with greater magnificence than taste.

As to the arts of sculpture, painting and engraving, our tra veller fhews no want of taste or attention to fuch of these fubjects as he takes an opportunity to mention. The fame may be faid with regard to literature and antiquities; but these are too numerous for us to dwell on. We shall select, therefore, only one or two fhort fpecimens of his critical abilities this way. Every body hath feen, or heard of, the famous picture of the Roman Charity; in which is represented an old man, fucking at the breaft of his daughter, through the grates of a prifon. Mr. Richard obferves, that, in the real history, it was a woman who was fo relieved by her daughter. The keeper of the prison, fays Valerius Maximus, being greatly affected with compaffion, at the fituation of an ancient woman,

who