about to apply for the equal ufe of all the churches of Paris, including that of Notre Dame. The people diftinguish the two worships by the names of the mafs and morality; and the new convert, instead of going as formerly à la mese, tells you, if you meet him on the way, that he is going à la morale.

CHAP.

CHAP. VI.

Country from Bafil to Zuric.-Bremgarton.-Balftal.— Ornamented Graves. -French Burials.-Solemnity of Sunday in Switzerland.—Obfervations on Cruelty to Animals at Paris.-Geographical Religion of Suitzerland.

IN

our route to Schaffhaufen we had paffed the Haverstein, a mountain which ferves as a continuation of Mount Jura, and divides the canton of Bafil from that of Soleure. On the top of this mountain, which is of difficult afcent, we found a military poft, where our permiffions for travelling in Switzerland were examined and enregiftered. This pafs is one of the keys of the country, and appears, from its fituation, to be capable of being well defended against very fuperior numbers; while the canton

of Bafil, which lies at its base, has no natural fecurity whatever against invasion.

The defcent from this mountain, through a paffage cut in the rock on its fummit, prefents many points of perfpective which we then thought fublime, for we had not yet gazed on those stupendous monuments, before which all other objects fink into littlenefs.

From the town of Olten, belonging to the canton of Soleure, and fituated at the distance of half a league from the mountain, in a fine cultivated valley, through which flows the Aar; we proceeded along that river to Arau, in the canton of Berne. A few miles beyond we croffed a river called the Da, at Lentzburg, a fmall neat town in the fame canton; at Millingen we paffed the Reufs; this river, as well as the Limat, falls into the Aar, which, thus enriched by

the

the principal rivers of Switzerland, fwells to a mighty volume the waters of the Rhine.

The country from Olten to Schaffhaufen, though full of those beautiful landscapes with which Switzerland abounds, prefents few scenes except the noble views over the Lake of Zuric, which leave lafting traces on the memory.

On our return from Zuric we croffed a chain of hills on our left, and defcended into the rich vale of Bremgarten. Inftead of repaffing the Haverftein, we directed our courfe along the foot of Mount Jura, to meet the road that leads from Soleure over this ridge of mountains, which continues to separate the two cantons. At Balftal, a little village fituated at the foot of those mountains, we went to fee a cataract, of which we had heard a magnificent defcrip

tion. The rocky channel was bold and romantic, but the heat had dried up its waters. Our path lay through the churchyard of the village, and we were particularly ftruck with the pious homage paid to the memory of the dead, not only in the gilded tomb-ftones and painted croffes, which were stuck thick over the ground; but in the humble affection which had given the grave itfelf an air of animation, by planting the pink, the violet, and other fweet-fcented herbs, on the green mounds, beneath which repofed the mouldering duft.. - Inftead of the murky atmofphere, and repulfive gloom of a receptacle of the dead, the church-yard, placed amidst wooded rocks and pastoral hills, and emitting the fweet fragrance of newly-fpringing flowers, and the fresh garlands which were hung around the tombs, excited pleafing images of hope to the mind, and led to foothing meditation. I recollected the wish of Of