THE last and most important of the labourers in the field of Assyrian antiquities, is our own countryman, Austen Henry Layard; and to him, therefore, the following chapter is dedicated. Layard commenced his career, as a traveller, in the summer of 1839, when he visited Russia and other northern countries. Without any very definite plans, he journeyed in succession through various states in Germany, paying special attention to those on the Danube, mastering not only the German language itself, but several of the dialects of Transylvania, and Montenegro. From Montenegro he travelled through Albania and Roumelia, and not without perilous and troublesome adventures made his way to Constantinople, which he reached about the latter part of the year. Having by this time seen all that was most remarkable in Europe, a new field seemed opening upon him, full of interest, in Asia. His experience as a traveller had rendered him hardy, and equal to the emergencies of European journeyings; but new languages and new habits-a more perfect reliance upon himself-were requisite before he could plunge into the half 30 NINEVEH AND ITS DISCOVERERS. wild life led in Asia Minor and other countries of the East. Undaunted by difficulties, he went to work to learn the languages of Turkey and Arabia; he studied the mannersadopted the costume-and was before long able to lead the life of an Arab of the Desert. Some records of these wanderings found place in the Journals of the London Geographical Society, through either incidental mention, or direct communication. In one number of the Society's Transactions, we find a paper by Mr. William Francis Ainsworth, in which he gives notes of an excursion in the neighbourhood of the Tigris and Nineveh-Layard being one of the party. The travellers started from Mósul, April 18th, 1840, and made their way down the stream to Kalah Sherghat, where the ruins of an ancient Persian city are still visible. In this excursion Layard passed the spot where his future excavations were to be made, where he was to unveil Nimroud, and so raise a lasting monument to his own fame. Mr. Ainsworth thus speaks of the circumstances under which Layard joined the party : "The accidental arrival of two English travellers, Messrs. Mitford and Layard, at Mósul, enabled us to make up a strong party to visit the sites of the ruined cities of Kalah Sherghat and Al Hadhr. "The party consisted of the above-mentioned gentlemen, Mr. Rassám, and myself; and we were accompanied by an Arab of Tunis, of whose courage we had had proof in crossing Northern Mesopotamia, when he was in the service of Mohammed 'Alí; but being worsted in an engagement between the Shammár Arabs (the men without bondage') and the irregular troops of Ibráhím Páshá, which had recently taken place, he had abandoned his horse to save his life, and sought refuge at Mósul. We had also with us a khawáss from Mo hammed Páshá of Mósul." As, however, we intend availing ourselves of Mr. Ainsworth's interesting paper in a subsequent chapter, we shall now limit ourselves to scenes in which Layard took a more prominent part. From one of his communications, dated Karak, December 31st, 1840, we gather that after visiting Ispahan, he crossed the highest part of the great chain of Mungasht, on his way to Kala Tul; examined the ancient mound and Sassanian ruin in the plain of Mel Amir; the sculptures and cuneiform inscriptions of the Shikajti Salman; besides observing in the same plain, and on the road to Susan, numerous other sculptures and inscriptions. After encountering many difficulties and dangers in his journey, he at length reached Susan, believed by Colonel Rawlinson to mark the site of the Susa of the ancient geographers. Layard expresses himself satisfied that a large city did once exist on the spot, although at the present day there are neither mounds of any size, nor columns, nor hewn stones, nor bricks to mark the site. The ruins that are found are entirely confined to the left bank of the Kárún, but on either side there are the remains of ancient roads, and the river was formerly spanned by a bridge, four piers of which still attest the stupendous nature of the building. He adds that the so-called tomb of Daniel is a comparatively modern building of rough stones, containing two apartments. It is, however, regarded with great veneration, and is always known by the name of Gebr Daniel Akhbar, or the grave of Daniel the greater, in contradistinction to the one at Shus. During two visits to Susan he searched and inquired in vain after inscriptions; and was, therefore, inclined to doubt the existence of the sculptures which he was informed were to be found in a cave at a place called Pairah. These excursions, sketches of sculptures, and copies of various inscriptions, seem only to have whetted Layard's appetite for further adventures and discoveries. In 1842 and 1843 we find him busy at Khúzistán; and of his adventures there, he sent a lengthy description, through Lord Aberdeen, to the Geographical Society. This paper gives glimpses of the history of an interesting portion of our traveller's life, while to the geographer it has especial value from the exactness of its details relative to a country but previously vaguely understood. He considered this country as very difficult of access, particularly to a European; and although he twice succeeded in traversing it, partly in disguise, he was plundered by those who were sent to protect him, and narrowly escaped on several occasions with his life. This was the more remarkable, as the Sheikh had frequently courted the friendship of the English engaged in navigating the Tigris, and it was under his protection that he entered his territories. But there were some spots safer and more pleasant than others. It would seem that one |