Tie it up and put it on the fire in cold water which will completely cover it. Throw a handful of salt into it. Great care must be taken to serve it without the smallest speck of black or scum. Garnish with a large quantity of double parsley, lemon, horseradish, and the milt, roe, and liver, and fried smelts if approved. If with smelts, be careful that no water hangs about the fish; or the beauty of the smelts will be taken off, as well as their flavour. Serve with plenty of oyster or shrimp sauce, and anchovy and butter. Crimp Cod.-Boil, broil, or fry.

Cod Sounds boiled.-Soak them in warm water half an hour, then scrape and clean; and if to be dressed white, boil them in milk and water; when tender serve them in a napkin, with egg sauce. The salt must not be much soaked out, unless for fricassee.

Cod Sounds to look like small Chickens.- A good maigre-day dish. Wash three large sounds nicely, and boil in milk and water, but not too tender; when cold, put a forcemeat of chopped oysters, crumbs of bread, a bit of butter, nutmeg, pepper, salt, and the yolks of two eggs; spread it over the sounds, and roll up each in the form of a chicken, skewering it; then lard them as you would chickens, dust a little flour over, and roast them in a tin oven slowly. When done enough, pour over them a fine oyster sauce. Serve for side or corner dish.

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To Broil Cod Sounds.-Scald in hot water, rub well with salt, pull off the dirty skin, and put them to simmer till tender take them out, flour, and broil. While this is being done, season a little brown gravy with pepper, salt, a tea-spoonful of soy, and a little mustard; give it a boil with a bit of flour and butter, and pour it over the sounds.

Cod Sound Ragout.-Prepare as above; then stew them in white gravy seasoned, cream, butter, and a little bit of flour added before you serve, gently boiling up. A bit of lemon-peel, nutmeg, and the least pinch of pounded mace should give the flavour. Currie of Cod should be made of sliced cod, that has either been crimped or sprinkled a day, to make it firm. Fry it of a fine brown with onion; and stew it with a good white gravy, a little currie-powder, a bit of butter and flour, three or four spoonfuls of rich cream, salt, and Cayenne, if the powder be not hot enough.

To Dress Salt Cod.-Soak and clean the piece you mean to dress, then lay it all night in water, with a glass of vinegar. Boil it enough, then break it into flakes on the dish; pour over it parsnips boiled, beaten into a mortar, and then boiled up with cream and a large piece of butter rubbed with a bit of flour. It may be served as above with egg sauce instead of the parsnip, and the root sent up whole, or the fish may be boiled and sent up without flaking, and sauces as above.

STURGEON.-To Dress Fresh Sturgeon.-Cut slices, rub egg over them, then sprinkle with crumbs of bread, parsley, pepper, salt; fold them in paper, and broil gently.

Sauce; butter, anchovy, and soy.

To Roast Sturgeon.-Put it on a lark spit, then tie it on a large spit; baste it constantly with butter; and serve with good gravy, an anchovy, a squeeze of Seville orange or lemon, and a glass of sherry.

Another way.-Put a piece of butter rolled in flour into a stew-pan with four cloves, a bunch of sweet herbs, two onions, some pepper and salt, half a pint of water, and a glass of vinegar. Stir it over the fire till hot; then let it become lukewarm, and steep the fish in it an hour or two. Butter a paper well, tie it round, and roast it without letting the spit run through. Serve with sorrel and anchovy_sauce.

An excellent Imitation of Pickled Sturgeon.-Take a fine large turkey, but not old; pick it very nicely, singe, and make it extremely clean: bone and wash it, and tie it across and across with a bit of mat-string washed clean. Put into a very nice tin saucepan a quart of water, a quart of vinegar, a quart of white (but not sweet) wine, and a very large handful of salt; boil and skim it well, then boil the turkey. When done enough tighten the strings, and lay upon it a dish with a weight of two pounds over it.

Boil the liquor half an hour; and when both are cold, put the turkey into it. This will keep some months, and eats more delicately than sturgeon; vinegar, oil, and sugar are usually eaten with it. If more vinegar or salt should be wanted, add when cold. Send fennel over it to table.

Thornback and Skate should be hung one day at least before they are dressed; and may be served either boiled, or fried in crumbs, being first dipped in egg.

Crimp Skate.-Boil and send up in a napkin; or fry as above.

Maids should likewise be hung one day at least. They may be boiled or fried; or, if of a tolerable size, the middle may be boiled and the fins fried. They should be dipped in egg, and covered with crumbs.

Boiled Carp.-Serve in a napkin, and with the sauce which you will find directed for it under the article Stewed Carp.

Stewed Carp.-Scald and clean, take care of the roe, &c., lay the fish in a stewpan, with a rich beef gravy, an onion, eiglit cloves, a dessert spoonful of Jamaica pepper, the same of black, a fourth part of the quantity of gravy or port (cyder may do); simmer close covered: when nearly done add two anchovies chopped fine, a dessert spoonful of made mustard, and some fine walnut ketchup, a bit of butter rolled in flour: shake it, and let the gravy boil a few minutes. Serve with sippets of fried bread, the roe fried, and a good deal of horse-radish and lemon.

Baked Carp.-Clean a large carp; put a stuffing as for soles dressed in the Portuguese way. Sew it up; brush it all over with yolk of egg, and put plenty of crumbs; then drop oiled butter to baste them; place the carp in a deep earthen dish, a pint of stock (or, if fast-day, fish-stock), a few sliced onions, some bay-leaves, a faggot of herbs (such as basil, thyme, parsley, and both sorts of

marjoram), half a pint of port wine, and six anchovies, cover over the pan, and bake it an hour. Let it be done before it is wanted. Pour the liquor from it, and keep the fish hot while you heat up the liquor with a good piece of butter rolled in flour, a tea-spoonful of mustard, a little Cayenne, and a spoonful of soy. Serve the fish on the dish, garnished with lemon, parsley, and horse-radish, and put the gravy into the sauce-tureen.

Perch and Tench.-Put them into cold water, boil them carefully, and serve with melted butter and soy. Perch are a most delicate fish. They may be either fried or stewed, but in stewing they do not preserve so good a flavour.

To Fry Trout and Grayling.-Scale, gut, and well wash; then dry them, and lay them separately on a board before the fire, after dusting some flour over them. Fry them of a fine colour with fresh dripping; serve with crimped parsley, and plain butter.

Perch and Tench may be done the same way.

Trout a-la-Genevoise.-Clean the fish very well; put it into your stewpan, adding half Champagne and half Moselle, or Rhenish, or sherry wine. Season it with pepper, salt, an onion, a few clores stuck in it, and a small bunch of parsley and thyme; put in it a crust of French bread; set it on a quick fire. When the fish is done, take the bread out, bruise it, and then thicken the sauce; add flour and a little butter, and let it boil up. See that your sauce is of a proper thickness. Lay your fish on the dish, and pour the sauce over it. Serve it with sliced lemon and fried bread.

MACKEREL.-Boil, and serve with butter and fennel.

To broil them, split, and sprinkle with herbs, pepper, and salt; or stuff with the same, crumbs, and chopped fennel. Collared, as Eel, page 31.

Potted clean, season, and bake them in a pan with spice, bayleaves, and some butter; when cold, lay them in a potting-pot, and cover with butter.

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Pickled boil them, then boil some of the liquor, a few peppers, bay-leaves, and some vinegar; when cold, pour it over them.

Pickled Mackerel, called Caveach.-Clean and divide them; then cut each side into three, or, leaving them undivided, cut each fish into five or six pieces. To six large mackerel, take near an ounce of pepper, two nutmegs, a little mace, four cloves, and a handful of salt, all in the finest powder; mix, and making holes in each bit of fish, thrust the seasoning into them, rub each piece with some of it; then fry them brown in oil; let them stand till cold, then put them into a stone-jar, and cover with vinegar; if to keep long, pour oil on the top. Thus done, they may be preserved for months.

Red Mullet. It is called the Sea-Woodcock. Clean, but leave the inside, fold in oiled paper, and gently bake in a small dish. Make a sauce of the liquor that comes from the fish, with a picce of butter, a little flour, a little essence of anchovy, and a

HADDOCK-PIKE-SOLES.

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glass of sherry. Give it a boil; and serve in a boat, and the fish in the paper cases.

To Dress Pipers.-Boil, or bake them with a pudding well seasoned. If baked, put a large cup of rich broth into the dish; and when done, take that, some essence of anchovy, and a squeeze of lemon, and boil them up together for sauce.

To Bake Pike.-Scale it, and open as near the throat as you can, then stuff it with the following: grated bread, herbs, anchovies, oysters, suct, salt, pepper, mace, half a pint of cream, four yolks of eggs; mix all over the fire till it thickens, then put it in the fish, and sew it up; butter should be put over it in little bits; bake it. Serve sauce of gravy, butter, and anchovy.

Note.-If in helping a pike, the back and belly are slit, and each slice gently drawn downwards, there will be fewer bones given.

HADDOCK.-Boil; or broil with stuffing, as under, having salted them a day.

To Dry Haddock.-Choose them of two or three pounds weight take out the gills, eyes, and entrails, and remove the blood from the backbone. Wipe them dry, and put some salt into the bodies and eyes. Lay them on a board for a night; then hang them up in a dry place, and after three or four days, they will be fit to eat; skin and rub them with egg, and strew crumbs over them. Lay them before the fire, and baste with butter until brown enough. Serve with egg-sauce.

Whitings, if large, are excellent this way; and it will prove an accommodation in the country where there is no regular supply of fish.

Stuffing for Pike, Haddock, and Small Cod.-Take equal parts of fat bacon, beef-suet, and fresh butter, some parsley, thyme, and savoury; a little onion, and a few leaves of scented marjoram shred fine; an anchovy or two; a little salt and nutmeg, and some pepper. Oysters will be an improvement with or without anchovies; add crumbs, and an egg to bind.

SOLES.-If boiled, they must be served with great care to look perfectly white, and should be much covered with parsley.

If fried, dip in egg, and cover them with fine crumbs of bread; set on a frying-pan that is just large enough, and put into it a large quantity of fresh lard or dripping, boil it, and immediately slip the fish into it; do them of a fine brown. See to fry, page 28. Soles that have been fried eat good cold with oil, vinegar, salt, and mustard.

Stewed Soles.-Do as Carp, page 27.

Soles another way.-Take two or three soles, divide them from the backbone, and take off the head, fins, and tail. Sprinkle the inside with salt, roll them up tight from the tail end upwards, and fasten with small skewers. If large or middling, put half a fish in each roll: small do not answer. Dip them into yolks of eggs, and cover them with crumbs. Do the egg over them again, and then put more crumbs; and fry them a beautiful colour in lard, or for fast-day in clarified butter.

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SOLES-PLAICE-EELS.

Soles in the Portuguese way. Take one large or two small: if large, cut the fish in two; if small, they need only be split. The bones being taken out, put the fish into a pan with a bit of butter and some lemon juice, give it a fry, then lay the fish on a dish, and spread a forcemeat over each piece, and roll it round, fastening the roll with a few small skewers. Lay the rolls into a small earthen pan, beat an egg and wet them, then strew crumbs over; and put the remainder of the egg, with a little meat-gravy, a spoonful of caper-liquor, an anchovy chopped fine and some parsley chopped, into the bottom of the pan; cover it close, and bake till the fish are done enough in a slow oven. place the rolls in the dish for serving, and cover it to keep them hot till the gravy baked is skimmed; if not enough, a little fresh, flavoured as above, must be prepared and added to it.

Then

Portuguese Stuffing for Soles Baked.-Pound cold beef, mutton, or veal, a little; then add some fat bacon that has been lightly fried, cut small, and some onions, a little garlic or shalot, some parsley, anchovy, pepper, salt, and nutmeg; pound all fine with a few crumbs, and bind it with two or three yolks of eggs.

The heads of the fish are to be left on one side of the split part, and kept on the outer side of the roll; and when served the heads are to be turned towards each other in the dish.

Garnish with fried or dried parsley.

An excellent way of Dressing a Large Plaice, especially if there be a Roe.-Sprinkle with salt, and keep twentyfour hours; then wash and wipe it dry, wet over with egg, and cover with crumbs of bread; make some lard or fine dripping, and two large spoonfuls of vinegar, boiling hot; lay the fish in, and fry it a fine colour, drain it from the fat, and serve with fried parsley round, and anchovy-sauce. You may dip the fish in vinegar, and not put it into the pan.

To Fry Smelts.-They should not be washed more than is necessary to clean them. Dry them in a cloth; then lightly flour them, but shake it off. Dip them into plenty of egg, then into bread-crumbs, grated fine, and plunge them into a good pan of boiling lard; let them continue gently boiling, and a few minutes will make them a bright yellow-brown. Take care not to take off the light roughness of the crumbs, or their beauty will be lost.

EELS.-Spitchcock Eels.-Take one or two large eels, leave the skin on, cut them into pieces of three inches long, open them on the belly side, and clean them nicely: wipe them dry, and then wet them with beaten egg, and strew over on both sides chopped parsley, pepper, salt, a very little sage, and a bit of mace pounded fine and mixed with the seasoning. Rub the gridiron with a bit of suet, and broil the fish of a fine colour. Serve with anchovy and butter for sauce.

Fried Eels.-If small, should be curled round and fried, being first dipped into egg and crumbs of bread.

Boiled Eels.-The small ones are best: do them in a smal