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SWEETBREADS-KIDNEYS-PORK.

nutmeg, and the liquor of the oysters. Cover it tight, and simmer three quarters of an hour. Serve with forcemeat balls, and hard eggs in the tureen.

An excellent and very cheap mock turtle may be made of two or three cow-heels baked with two pounds and a half of gravy beef, herbs, &c., as above with cow-heels and veal.

Calf's Liver.-Slice it, season with pepper and salt, and boil nicely rub a bit of cold butter on it, and serve hot and hot.

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Calf's Liver Roasted.-Wash and wipe it; then cut a long hole in it, and stuff it with crumbs of bread, chopped anchovy, herbs, a good deal of fat bacon, onion, salt, pepper, a bit of butter, and an egg: sew the liver up; then lard it, or wrap it in a vealcawl, and roast it.

Serve with a good brown gravy, and currant jelly.

To Dress the Liver and Lights.-Half-boil an equal quantity of each, then cut them in middling-sized mince, put to it a spoonful or two of the water that boiled it, a bit of butter, flour, salt, and pepper, simmer ten minutes, and serve hot.

Sweet-breads.-Half boil them, and stew them in a white gravy; add cream, flour, butter, nutmeg, salt, and white pepper. Or do them in brown sauce seasoned.

Or parboil them, and then cover them with crumbs, herbs, and seasoning, and brown them in a Dutch oven. Serve with butter, and mushroom ketchup or gravy.

Sweet-breads Roasted.-Parboil two large ones; when cold, lard them with bacon, and roast them in a Dutch oven. For sauce, plain butter, and mushroom ketchup.

Sweet-bread Ragout.-Cut them about the size of a walnut, wash and dry them, and fry them of a fine brown; pour to them a good gravy, seasoned with salt, pepper, allspice, and either mushrooms, or mushroom ketchup strain, and thicken with butter and a little flour. You may add truffles, morels, and mush

rooms.

Kidneys.-Chop veal kidney, and some of the fat; likewise a little leek or onion, pepper, and salt; roll it up with an egg into balls, and fry them."

Calf's heart, stuff and roast as a beef's heart, or sliced, make it into a pudding, as directed for steak or kidney pudding.

PORK, &c.-Bacon hogs, and porkers are differently cut up. Hogs are kept to a large size; the chine (or backbone) is cut down each side, the whole length, and is a prime part either boiled or roasted.

The sides of the hog are made into bacon, and the inside is cut out with very little meat to the bone. On each side there is a large spare-rib; which is usually divided into two, one sweet-bone and a blade-bone. The bacon is the whole outside; and contains a fore leg, and a ham; which last is the hind-leg, but if left with the bacon, is called a gammon. There are also griskins. Hog's lard is the inner fat of the bacon hog.

Pickled pork is made of the flesh of the hog, as well as bacon. Porkers are not so old as hogs: their flesh is whiter and less

ROAST LEG OF PORK-LOIN AND NECK OF PORK.

57

rich, but it is not so tender. It is divided into four quarters. The fore-quarter has the spring or fore-leg, the fore-loin or neck, the spare-rib and griskin. The hind has the leg and the loin.

The feet of pork make various good dishes, and should be cut off before the legs are cured. Observe the same of the ears. The bacon hog is sometimes scalded to take off the hair, and sometimes singed. The porker is always scalded.

To Roast a Leg of Pork.-Choose a small leg of fine young pork; cut a slit in the knuckle with a sharp knife: and fill the space with sage and onion chopped, and a little pepper and salt. When half-done, score the skin in slices, but do not cut deeper than the outer rind.

Apple sauce and potatoes should be served to eat with it.

To Boil a Leg of Pork.-Salt it eight or ten days: when it is to be dressed, weigh it, let it lie half an hour in cold water to make it white; allow a quarter of an hour for every pound, and half an hour over, from the time it boils up: skim it as soon as it boils, and frequently after. Allow water enough. Save some of it to make peas soup. Some boil it in a very nice cloth, floured; which gives a very delicate look. It should be small and of a fine grain.

Serve peas-pudding and turnips with it.

Loin and Neck of Pork.-Roast them. Cut the skin of the loin across, at distances of half an inch, with a sharp penknife.

Shoulders and Breasts of Pork.-Put them into pickle, or salt the shoulder as a leg: when very nice, they may be roasted,

Rolled Neck of Pork.-Bone it; put a forcemeat of chopped sage, a very few crumbs of bread, salt, pepper, and two or three berries of allspice, over the inside; then roll the meat as tight as you can, and roast it slowly, and at a good distance at first.

Spring, or Forehand of Pork.-Cut out the bone; sprinkle salt, pepper, and sage dried, over the inside; but first warm a little butter to baste it, and then flour it: roll the pork tight, and tie it; then roast by a hanging jack. About two hours will do it.

Spare-rib should be basted with a very little butter and a little flour, and then sprinkled with dried sage crumbled. Apple sauce and potatoes, as for roasted pork.

Pork Griskin is usually very hard; the best way to prevent this is, to put it into as much cold water as will cover it, and let it boil up; then instantly take it off, and put it into a Dutch oven; a yery few minutes will do it. Remember to rub butter over it, and then flour it, before you put it to the fire.

Blade-bone of Pork is taken from the bacon hog: the less meat left on it in moderation, the better. It is to be broiled; and when just done, pepper and salt it. Put to it a piece of butter, and a tea-spoonful of mustard: and serve it covered, quickly. This is a Somersetshire dish.

To Dress Pork as Lamb.-Kill a young pig of four or five months old; cut up the fore-quarter for roasting as you do

68

PORK STEAKS-SAUSAGES-SUCKING PIG.

lamb, and truss the shank close. The other parts will make delicate pickled pork; or steaks, pies, &c.

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Pork Steaks.-Cut them from a loin or neck, and of middling thickness; pepper and broil them, turning them often when nearly done, put on salt, rub a bit of butter over, and serve the moment they are taken off the fire, a few at a time.

To Pickle Pork.-The quantities proportioned to the middlings of a pretty large hog, the hams and shoulders being cut off. Mix, and pound fine, four ounces of saltpetre, a pound of coarse sugar, an ounce of sal-prunel, and a little common salt; sprinkle the pork with salt, and drain it twenty-four hours: then rub with the above; pack the pieces tight in a small deep tub, filling up the spaces with common salt. Place large pebbles on the pork to prevent it from swimming in the pickle which the salt will produce. If kept from air, it will continue very fine for two

years.

Sausages.-Chop fat and lean of pork together; season it with sage, pepper, and salt, and you may add two or three berries of allspice; half fill hogs' guts that have been soaked and made extremely clean: or the meat may be kept in a very small pan, closely covered and so rolled and dusted with a very little flour before it is fried. Serve on stewed red cabbage, or mashed potatoes put in a form, brown with salamander, and garnish with the above: they must be pricked with a fork before they are dressed, or they will burst,

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An excellent Sausage to eat Cold-Season fat and lean pork, with some salt, saltpetre, black pepper, and allspice, all in fine powder, and rub into the meat: the sixth day cut it small and mix with it some shred shalot or garlic, as fine as possible. Ilave ready an ox-gut that has been scoured, salted, and soaked well, and fill it with the above stuffing; tie up the ends, and hang it to smoke as you would hams, but first wrap it in a fold or two of old muslin. It must be high-dried. Some eat it without boiling, but others like it boiled first. The skin should be tied in different places, so as to make each link about eight or nine inches long.

Spadbury's Oxford Sausages.-Chop a pound and a half of pork, and the same of veal, cleared of skin and sinews; add three quarters of a pound of beef-suet; mince and mix them; steep the crumb of a penny loaf in water, and mix it with the meat, with also a little dried sage, pepper and salt.

To Scald a Sucking Pig.-The moment the pig is killed, put it into cold water for a few minutes, then rub it over with a little resin beaten extremely small, and put it into a pail of scalding water half a minute; take it out, lay it on a table, and pull off the hair as quickly as possible; if any part does not come off, put it in again. When quite clean, wash it well with warm water, and then in two or three cold waters, that no flavour of the resin may remain. Take off all the feet at the first joint; make a slit down the belly, and take out the entrails; put the liver, heart and lights to the feet. Wash the pig well in cold water, dry it thoroughly, and fold it in a wet cloth to keep it from the air.

ROASTED SUCKING PIG-PETTITOES.

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To Roast a Sucking Pig.-If you can get it when just killed, this is of great advantage. Let it be scalded, which the dealers usually do; then put some sage, crumbs of bread, salt, and pepper into the belly, and sew it up. Observe to skewer the legs back, or the under part will not crisp.

Lay it to a brisk fire till thoroughly dry, then have ready some butter in a dry cloth, and rub the pig with it in every part. Dredge as much flour over as will possibly lie, and do not touch it again till ready to serve; then scrape off the flour very carefully with a blunt knife, rub it well with the buttered cloth, and take off the head while at the fire; take out the brains and mix them with the gravy that comes from the pig. Then take it up, and without withdrawing the spit, cut it down the back and belly, lay it into the dish, and chop the sage and bread quickly as fine as you can, and mix them with a large quantity of fine melted butter that has very little flour. Put the sauce into the dish after the pig has been split down the back, and garnished with the ears and the two jaws; take off the upper part of the head down to the

snout.

In Devonshire it is served whole, if very small; the head only being cut off to garnish as above.

Pettitoes.-Boil them, the liver, and the heart, in a small quantity of water, very gently; then cut the meat fine and simmer it with a little of the water and the feet split, till the feet are quite tender; thicken with a bit of butter, a little flour, a spoonful of cream, and a little salt and pepper; give it a boil up, pour it over a few sippets of bread, and put the feet on the mince.

To make excellent Meat of a Hog's Head.-Split the head, and take out the brains, cut off the ears, and sprinkle it with common salt for a day; then drain it: salt it well with salt and saltpetre three days, then lay the salt and head into a small quantity of water for two days. Wash it, and boil till all the bones will come out; remove them, and chop the head as quick as possible; but first skin the tongue and take the skin carefully off the head, to put under and over. Season with pepper, salt and a little mace or allspice-berries. Put the skin into a small pan, press the cut head in, and put the other skin over; press it down. When cold it will turn out, and make a kind of brawn. If too fat, you may put some lean pork, to be prepared the same way. Add salt and vinegar, and boil these with some of the liquor for a pickle to keep it.

To Roast Porker's Head.-Choose a fine young head, clean it well and put bread and sage as for pig; sew it up tight, and on a string or hanging-jack roast it as a pig, and serve with the same sauce.

To Prepare Pig's Cheek for Boiling.-Cut off the snout, and clean the head; divide it, take out the eyes and the brains; sprinkle the head with salt, and let it drain twenty-four hours. Salt it with common salt and saltpetre: let it lie eight or ten days if it be dressed without stewing with peas, but less if to be dressed

60

COLLARED PIG'S HEAD-DRIED HOG'S CHEEKS.

with peas; and it must be washed first, and then simmered till all is tender.

To Collar Pig's Head.-Scour the head and ears nicely; take off the hair and snout, and take out the eyes and the brain; lay it into water one night; then drain, salt it extremely well with common salt and saltpetre, and let it lie five days. Boil it enough to take out the bones, then lay it on a dresser, turning the thick end of one side of the head towards the thin end of the other to make the roll of equal size; sprinkle it well with salt and white pepper, and roll it with the ears; and, if you approve, put the pig's feet round the outside when boned, or the thin parts of two cow-heels. Put it in a cloth, bind with a broad tape, and boil till quite tender, then put a good weight upon it, and do not take off the covering till cold.

If you choose it to be more like brawn salt it longer, and let the proportion of saltpetre be greater, and put in also some pieces of lean pork; and then cover it with cow-heel, to look like the horn.

This may be kept either in or out of pickle of salt and water boiled with vinegar, and is a very convenient thing to have in the house. If likely to spoil, slice and fry it, either with or without butter.

To Dry Hog's Cheeks.-Cut out the snout, remove the brains, and split the head, taking off the upper bone, to make the chawl a good shape: rub it well with salt; next day take away the brine, and salt it again the following day: cover the head with half an ounce of saltpetre, two ounces of bay salt, a little common salt, and four ounces of coarse sugar. Let the head be often turned; after ten days, smoke it for a week like bacon.

To Force Hog's Ears.-Parboil two pair of ears, or take some that have been soused; make a forcemeat of an anchovy, some sage, parsley, a quarter of a pound of suet chopped, breadcrumbs, pepper, and only a little salt. Mix all these with the yolks of two eggs; raise the skin of the upper side of the ears, and stuff them with the above. Fry the ears in fresh butter, of a fine colour; then pour away the fat, and drain them: make ready half a pint of rich gravy, with a glass of fine sherry, three tea-spoonfuls of made mustard, a little bit of flour and butter, a small onion whole, and a little pepper or Cayenne. Put this with the ears into a stew-pan, and cover it close; stew it gently for half an hour, shaking the pan often. When done enough, take out the onion, rlace the cars carefully in a dish, and pour the sauce over them. If a larger dish is wanted, the meat from two feet may be added to the above.

Different ways of Dressing Pig's Feet and Ears.→ Clean carefully and soak some hours, and boil them tender; then take them out; boil some vinegar and a little salt with some of the water, and when cold put it over them. When they are to be dressed, dry them, cut the feet in two, and slice the ears; fry, and serve with butter, mustard, and vinegar. They may be either done in batter or only floured.

Pig's Feet and Ears Fricasseed.-Put no vinegar into