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CULLIS, OR BROWN GRAVY-GRAVY FOR A FOWL.

Cullis, or Brown Gravy.-Lay over the bottom of a stewpan as much lean veal as will cover it an inch thick; then cover the veal with thin slices of undressed gammon, two or three onions, two or three bay leaves, some sweet herbs, two blades of mace, and three cloves. Cover the stew-pan, and set it over a slow fire; but when the juices come out, let the fire be a little quicker. When the meat is of a fine brown, fill the pan with good beef broth, boil and skim it, then simmer an hour; and add a little water, mixed with as much flour as will make it properly thick :" boil it half an hour, and strain it. This will keep a week.

Bechamel, or White Sauce.-Cut lean veal into small slices, and the same quantity of lean bacon or ham; put them into a stew-pan with a good piece of butter, an onion, a blade of mace, a few mushroom buttons, a bit of thyme, and a bay leaf; fry the whole over a very slow fire, but do not brown it; thicken it with flour; then put an equal quantity of good broth, and rich cream: let it boil for half an hour, and stir it all the time; strain it through a soup-strainer.

A Gravy without Meat.-Put a glass of small beer, a glass of water, some pepper, salt, lemon peel grated, a bruised clove or two, and a spoonful of walnut pickle, or mushroom ketchup, into a basin. Slice an onion, flour and fry it in a piece of butter till it is brown. Then turn all the above into a small tosser with the onion, and simmer it, covered, twenty minutes. Strain it off for use, and when cold take off the fat.

A Rich Gravy.-Cut beef into thin slices, according to the quantity wanted; slice onions thin, and flour both; fry them of a light pale brown, but do not on any account suffer them to get black; put them into a stew-pan, pour boiling water on the browning in the frying-pan, boil it up, and pour on the meat. Put to it a bunch of parsley, thyme, and savory, a small bit of knotted marjoram, the same of tarragon, some mace, berries of allspice, whole black peppers, a clove or two, and a bit of ham, or gammon of bacon. Simmer till you have extracted all the juices of the meat; and be sure to skim the moment it boils, and often after. If for a hare, or stewed fish, anchovy should be added.

Gravy for a Fowl, when there is no Meat to make it of. Wash the feet nicely, and cut them and the neck small; simmer them with a little bread browned; a slice of onion, a bit of parsley and thyme, some pepper and salt, and the liver and gizzard, in a quarter of a pint of water, till half-wasted. Take out the liver, bruise it, and strain the liquor to it. Then thicken it with flour and butter, and add a tea-spoonful of mushroom ketchup, and it will be very good.

Veal Gravy.-Make it as directed_for_Cullis as above, but leave out the spice, herbs, and flour. It should be drawn very slowly; and if for white dishes do not let the meat brown.

Gravy to make Mutton eat like Venison.-Pick a very stale woodcock, or snipe, cut it to pieces (but first take out the bag from the entrails), and simmer with as much unseasoned meat gravy as you will want. Strain it, and serve in the dish.

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STRONG FISH GRAVY-SAUCES.

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Strong Fish Gravy.-Skin two or three eels, or some flounders; gut and wash them very clean, cut them into small pieces, and put into a saucepan. Cover them with water, and add a little crust of bread toasted brown, two blades of mace, some whole pepper, sweet herbs, a piece of lemon peel, an anchovy or two, and a tea-spoonful of horse-raddish. Cover close and simmer; add a bit of butter and flour and boil with the above.

Savoury Jelly, to put over Cold Pies.-Make it of a small bare knuckle of leg or shoulder of veal, or a piece of scrag of that or mutton; or, if the pie be of fowl or rabbit, the carcasses, necks, and heads, added to any piece of meat, will be sufficient, observing to give consistence by cow-heel or shanks of mutton. Put the meat, a slice of lean ham or bacon, a faggot of different herbs, two blades of mace, an onion or two, a small bit of lemon peel, and a tea-spoonful of Jamaica pepper bruised, and the same of whole pepper, and three pints of water, in a stew-pot that shuts very close. As soon as it boils, skim it well, and let it simmer very slowly till quite strong, strain it, and when cold take off the fat with a spoon first, and then, to remove every particle of grease, lay a clean piece of cap or blotting-paper on it. When cold, if not clear, boil it a few minutes with the whites of two eggs (but do not add the sediment), and pour it through a nice sieve, with a napkin in it, which has been dipped in boiling water to prevent waste.

Jelly to cover Cold Fish.-Clean a maid, and put it into three quarts of water, with a calf's-foot, or cow-heel, a stick of horse-raddish, an onion, three blades of mace, some white pepper, a piece of lemon peel, and a good slice of lean gammon. Stew until it will jelly, strain it off; when cold remove every bit of fat; take it up from the sediment, and boil it with a glass of sherry, the whites of four or five eggs, and a piece of lemon. Boil without stirring, and after a few minutes set it by to stand half an hour, and strain it through a bag or sieve with a cloth in it. Cover the fish with it when cold.

SAUCES, &c.

A very good Sauce, especially to hide the bad Colour of Fowls. Cut the livers, slices of lemon in dice, scalded parsley and hard eggs: add salt, and mix them with butter, boil them up, and pour over the fowls.

This will do for roast rabbit.

White Sauce for Fricassee of Fowls, Rabbits, White Meat, Fish, or Vegetables. It is seldom necessary to buy meat for this favourite sauce, as the proportion of that flavour is but small. The water that has boiled fowls, veal, or rabbit; or a little broth, that may be in the house; or the feet and necks of chicken; or raw or dressed veal will suffice. Stew with a little water any of these, with a bit of lemon peel, some sliced onion, some white peppercorns, a little pounded mace or nutmeg, and a bunch of sweet herbs, until the flavour be good, then strain it and

94 SAUCE FOR WILD FOWL-SAUCE A-LA-MAITRE D'HOTEL. add a little good cream, a piece of butter, and a little flour; salt to your taste. A squeeze of lemon may be added after the sauce is taken off the fire, shaking it well. Yolk of egg is often used in fricassee, but if you have any cream it is better, as the former is apt to curdle.

Sauce for Wild Fowl.-Simmer a tea-cupful of port wine, the same quantity of good meat gravy, a little shalot, a little pepper, salt, a grate of nutmeg, and a bit of mace for ten minutes; put in a bit of butter and flour, give it all one boil, and pour it through the birds. In general they are not stuffed as tame, but may be done so if liked.

Another for the same, or for Ducks.· Serve a rich gravy in the dish; cut the breast into slices, but do not take them off; cut a lemon, and put pepper and salt on it; then squeeze it on the breast, and pour a spoonful of gravy over before you help.

An excellent Sauce for Carp, or Boiled Turkey.Rub half a pound of butter with a tea-spoonful of flour, put to it a little water, melt it, and add near a quarter of a pint of thick cream and half an anchovy chopped fine, not washed; set it over the fire, and as it boils up add a large spoonful of real India soy. If that does not give it a fine colour, put a little more. Turn it into the sauce tureen, and put some salt and half a lemon: stir it well to hinder it from curdling.

Sauce for Fowls of any sort.-Boil some veal gravy, pepper, salt, the juice of a Seville orange and a lemon, and a quarter as much of port wine as of gravy: pour it into the dish or a boat.

Sauce for Cold Fowl or Partridge.-Rub down in a mortar the yolks of two eggs boiled hard, an anchovy, two dessert spoonfuls of oil, three of vinegar, a shalot, Cayenne if approved, and a tea-spoonful of mustard. All should be pounded before the oil is added. Then strain it. Shalot-vinegar instead of shalot eats well.

Sauce a-la-Maitre d'Hotel.-Put a piece of butter into a saucepan with some curled parsley, some tarragon leaves, a shalot, two leaves of balm, a little salt, lemon, or a glass of verjuice, and mix the whole with a spoon until they are well incorporated, and simmer a few minutes.

A very fine Mushroom Sauce for Fowls or Rabbits.Wash and pick a pint of young mushrooms, and rub them with salt to take off the tender skin. Put them into a saucepan with a little salt, some nutmeg, a blade of mace, a pint of cream, and a good piece of butter rubbed in flour. Boil them up and stir them till done; then pour it round the chickens, &c. Garnish with lemon. If you cannot get fresh mushrooms, use pickled ones done white, with a little mushroom powder with the cream, &c.

Lemon White Sauce for Boiled Fowls.-Put the peel of a small lemon, cut very thin, into a pint of sweet rich cream, with a sprig of lemon-thyme and ten white pepper-corns. Simmer gently till it tastes well of the lemon; then strain it, and thicken it with a quarter of a pound of butter and a dessert-spoonful of flour rubbed in it. Boil it up, then pour the juice of the lemon

LIVER SAUCE-ONION SAUCE-DUTCH SAUCE.

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strained into it, stirring it well. Dish the chickens, and then mix a little white gravy, quite hot, with the cream, but do not boil them together: add salt to your taste.

Liver Sauce.-Chop boiled liver of rabbits or fowls, and do it as directed for lemon-sauce (page 96), with a very little pepper and salt and some parsley.

Egg Sauce.-Boil the eggs hard, and cut them into small pieces; then put them to melted butter.

Onion Sauce.-Peel the onions and boil them tender; squeeze the water from them, then chop them and add to them butter that has been melted rich and smooth, as will be hereafter directed, but with a little good milk instead of water; boil it up once, and serve it with boiled rabbits, partridges, scrag or knuckle of veal or roast mutton. A turnip boiled with the onions makes them milder.

Clear Shalot Sauce. Put a few chopped shalots into a little gravy boiled clear, and near half as much vinegar, season with pepper and salt; boil half an hour.

To make Parsley Sauce when no Parsley-leaves are to be had.-Tie up a little parsley-seed in a bit of clean muslin, and boil it a few minutes in some water. Use this water to melt the butter; and throw into it a little boiled spinach minced, to look like parsley.

Green Sauce for Green Geese or Ducklings.-Mix a quarter of a pint of sorrel-juice, a glass of white wine, and some scalded gooseberries. Add sugar and a bit of butter. Boil them

up.

Bread Sauce.-Boil a large onion cut in four, with some black peppers and milk, till the onion is quite a pap. Pour the milk strained on grated white stale bread, and cover it. In an hour put it in a saucepan, with a good piece of butter mixed with a little flour: boil the whole up together, and serve.

Dutch Sauce for Meat or Fish.-Put six spoonfuls of water, and four of vinegar, into a saucepan, warm, and thicken it with the yolks of two eggs. Make it quite hot, but do not boil it; squeeze in the juice of half a lemon, and strain it through a sieve.

Sauce Robart for Rumps or Steaks.-Put a piece of butter, the size of an egg, into a saucepan, set it over the fire, and when browning throw in a handful of sliced onions cut small; fry them brown, but do not let them burn; add half a spoonful of flour, shake the onions in it and give it another fry; then put four spoonfuls of gravy and some pepper and salt, and boil it gently ten minutes; skim off the fat, and add a tea-spoonful of made mustard, a spoonful of vinegar, and the juice of half a lemon; boil it all, and pour it round the steaks. They should be of a fine yellow brown, and garnished with fried parsley and lemon.

Benton Sauce for Hot and Cold Roast Beef.-Grate, or scrape very fine, some horseradish, a little made mustard, some pounded white sugar, and four large spoonfuls of vinegar. Serve

in a saucer.

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TOMATA SAUCE-CURRANT SAUCE FOR VENISON.

Sauce for Fish Pies where Cream is not ordered.Take equal quantities of white wine not sweet, vinegar, oyster liquor and mushroom ketchup: boil them up with an chovy; strain, and pour it through a funnel into the pie after it is baked.

an

Another.-Chop an anchovy small, and boil it up with three spoonfuls of gravy, a quarter of a pint of cream, and a bit of butter and flour.

Tomata Sauce for Hot or Cold Meats.-Put tomatas, when perfectly ripe, into an earthen jar, and set it in an oven, when the bread is drawn, till they are quite soft; then separate the skins from the pulp, and mix this with capsicum vinegar and a few cloves of garlic pounded, which must both be proportioned to the quantity of fruit. Add powdered ginger and salt to your taste. Some white-wine vinegar and Cayenne may be used instead of capsicum vinegar. Keep the mixture in small widemouthed bottles, well corked, and in a dry cool place.

Apple Sauce for Goose and Roast Pork.-Pare, core, and slice some apples; and put them in a stone jar, into a saucepan of water, or on a hot hearth. If on a hearth, let a spoonful or two of water be put in to hinder them from burning. When they are done, bruise them to a mash, and put to them a bit of butter the size of a nutmeg, and a little brown sugar. Serve it in a sauce tureen.

The Old Currant Sauce for Venison.-Boil an ounce of dried currants in half a pint of water a few minutes; then add a small tea-cupful of bread crumbs, six cloves, a glass of port wine, and a bit of butter. Stir it till the whole is smooth.

Lemon Sauce.-Cut thin slices of lemon into very small dice, and put them in melted butter; give it one boil, and pour it over boiled fowls.

Carrier Sauce for Mutton.-Chop six shalots fine; and boil them up with a gill of gravy, a spoonful of vinegar, some pepper and salt. Serve in a boat.

Ham Sauce.-When a ham is almost done with, pick all the meat clean from the bone, leaving out any rusty part; beat the meat and the bone to a mash with a rolling-pin: put it in a saucepan, with three spoonfuls of gravy; set it over a slow fire, and stir it all the time, or it will stick to the bottom. When it has been on some time, put to it a small bundle of sweet herbs, some pepper, and half a pint of beef gravy; cover it up and let it stew over a gentle fire. When it has a good flavour of the herbs, strain off the gravy. A little of this is an improvement to all gravies.

A very Fine Fish Sauce.-Put into a very nice tin saucepan a pint of fine port wine, a gill of mountain, half a pint of fine walnut ketchup, twelve anchovies, and the liquor that belongs to them, a gill of walnut pickle, the rind and juice of a large lemon, four or five shalots, some Cayenne to taste, three ounces of scraped horse-radish, three blades of mace, and two tea-spoonfuls of made mustard; boil it all gently, till the rawness goes off; then put