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OBSERVATIONS ON PASTBY. 121

Observations on Pastry.—An adept in pastry never leaves any part of it adhering to the board or dish used in making. It is best when rolled on marble, or a very large slate. In very hot weather the butter should be put into cold water to keep it as firm as possible, and if made early in the morning, and preserved from the air until it is to be baked, the cook will find it much better. A good hand at pastry will use much less butter, and produce lighter crust than others. Salt butter, if very good and well washed, makes a fine flaky crust.

Remarks on Using Preserved Fruits in Pastry.—Preserved fruits should not bo baked long; those that have been done with their full proportion of sugar, need no baking; the crust should be baked in a tin shape, and the fruit be afterwards added; or it may be put into a small dish, or tart-pans, and the covers be baked on a tin cut out according to your taste.

Apple Pie.—Pare and core the fruit, having wiped the outside, which, with the cores, boil with a little water till it tastes well; strain, and put a little sugar and a bit of bruised cinnamon, and simmer again. In the meantime place the apples in a dish, a

Easte being put round the edge; when one layer is in, sprinkle alf the sugar, and shred lemon peel, and squeeze some juice, or a glass of cider if the apples have lost their spirit; put in the rest of the apples, sugar, and the liquor that you have boiled. Cover with paste. You may add some butter when cut, if eaten hot, or put quince-marmalade, orange-paste, or cloves, to flavour.

Hot Apple Re make with the fruit, sugar, and a clove, and put a bit of butter in when cut open.

Cherry Pie should have a mixture of other fruit,—currants or raspberries, or both.

Currant Pie, with or without raspberries.

Mince Pie.—Of scraped beef free from skin and strings, weigh two pounds, four pounds of suet picked and chopped, then add six pounds of currants nicely cleaned and perfectly dry, three pounds of chopped apples, the peel and juice of two lemons, a pint of sweet wine, a nutmeg, and a quarter of an ounce of cloves, ditto mace, ditto pimento, in finest powder; press the whole into a deep pan when well mixed, and keep it covered in a dry cool place.

Half the quantity is enough, unless for a very large family.

Have citron, orange, and lemon peel ready, and put some of each in the pies when made.

Mince Pies without Meat. — Of best apples six pounds, pared, cored, and minced; of fresh suet and raisins stoned, each three pounds, both likewise minced: to these add of mace and cinnamon a quarter of an ounce each, and eight cloves, in finest powder, three pounds of the finest powdered sugar, three quarters of an ounce of salt, the rinds of four and juice of two lemons, half a pint of port, the same of brandy. Mix well and put into a deep pan.

Have ready washed and dried four pounds of currants, and add as you make the pies, with candied fruit.

122 LEMON MINCE WES—ICINO FOE TAETS—M.TTNE TAET.

Lemon Mince Pies.—Squeeze a large lemon, boil the outside till tender enough to heat to a mash, add to it three large apples chopped, and four ounces of suet, half a pound of currants, four ounces of sugar; put the juice of the lemon, and candied fruit as for other pies. Make a short crust, and fill the patty-pans as usual.

Egg Mince Pies.—Boil six eggs hard, shred them small: shred double the quantity of suet; then put currants washed and picked one pound, or more, if the eggs were large; the peel of one lemon shred very fine, and the juice, six spoonfuls of sweet wine, mace, nutmeg, sugar, a very little salt: orange, lemon, and citron, candied. Make a light paste for them.

Currant and Raspberry.—For a tart, line the dish, put sugar and fruit, lay bars across, and bake.

Light Paste for Tarts and Cheesecakes.—Beat the white of an egg to a strong froth; then mix with it as much water as will make three quarters of a pound of fine flour into a very stiff paste; roll it very thin, then lay the third part of half a pound of butter upon it in little bits; dredge it with some flour left out at first, and roll it up tight. Roll it out again, and put the same proportion of butter; and so proceed till all be worked up.

Icing for Tarts.—Beat the yolk of an egg and some melted butter well together, wash the tarts with a feather, and sift sugar over as you put them in the oven. Or beat white of egg, wash the paste, and sift white sugar.

Pippin Tarts.—Pare in two Seville or China oranges, boil the peel tender, and shred it fine; pare and core twenty apples, put them in a stew-pan, and as little water as possible: when half done, add half a pound of sugar, the orange peel and juice; boil till pretty thick. When cold, put it in a shallow dish, or pattypans lined with paste, to turn out, and be eaten cold.

Prune Tart.—Give prunes a scald, take out the stones and break them; put the kernels into a little cranberry juice, with the prunes and sugar; simmer; and, when cold, make a tart of tho sweetmeat.

Orange Tart.—Squeeze, pulp, and boil two Seville oranges tender, weigh them, and double of sugar; beat both together to a paste, and then add the juice and pulp of the fruit, and the size of a walnut of fresh butter, and beat together. Choose a very shallow dish, line it with a light puff erust, and lay the paste of orange in it. You may ice it.

Codlin Tart.—Scald the fruit as will be directed under that article: when ready take off the thin skin, and lay them whole in a dish, put a little of the water the apples were boiled in at bottom, strew them over with lump sugar or fine Lisbon; when cold, put a paste round the edges and over the tart.

You may wet it with white of egg, and strew sugar over, which looks very well: or cut the lid in quarters, without touching the paste on the edge of the dish: and either put the broad end downwards, and make the point stand up, or remove tho lid

RHtTBARB TART—ORANGE TART—OYSTER PATTIES. 123

altogether. Pour a good custard over it when cold, and sift sugar over.

Or, line the hottom of a shallow dish with paste, lay the apples in it, sweeten, and lay little twists of paste over in bars.

Rhubarb Tart.—Cut the stalks in lengths of four or five inches, and take off the thin skin. If you have a hot hearth, lay them in a dish, and put over a thin syrup of sugar and water, cover with another dish, and let it simmer very slowly an hour; or do them in a block-tin saucepan.

When cold, make into a tart, as codlin. When tender, the baking the crust will be sufficient.

Raspberry Tart with Cream.—Eoll out some thin puff paste, and lay it in a patty-pan of what size you choose; put in raspberries; strew over them fine sugar; cover with a thin lid, and then bake. Cut it open, and have ready the following mixture warm: half a pint of cream, the yolks of two or three eggs well beaten, and a little sugar; and when this is added to the tart, return it to the oven for five or six minutes.

Orange Tart.—Line a tart-pan with thin puff paste; put into it orange marmalade that is made with apple jelly; lay bars of paste, or a croquant cover over, and bake in a moderate oven.

Fried Patties.—Mince a bit of cold veal, and six oysters, mixed with a few crumbs of bread, salt, pepper, nutmeg, and a very small bit of lemon peel—add the liquor of the oysters; warm all in a tosser, but do not boil; let it cool; have ready a good puff paste, roll thin, and cut it in round or square bits; put some of the above between two of them, twist the edges to keep in the gravy, and fry them of a fine brown.

This is a very good thing; and baked, is a fashionable dish.

Wash all patties over with egg before baking.

Oyster Patties.—Put a fine puff paste into small patty-pans, and cover with paste, with a bit of bread in each; and against thoy are baked have ready the following to fill with, taking out the bread. Take off the beards of the oysters, cut the other parts into small bits, put them in a small tosser, with a grate of nutmeg, the least white pepper, and salt, a morsel of lemon peel, cut so small that you can scarcely see it, a very little cream, and a little of the oyster liquor. Simmer for a few minutes before you fill.

Observe always to put a bit of crust into patties, to keep them hollow while baking.

Oyster Patties, or Small Pies.—As you open the oysters separate them from tho liquor, which strain; parboil them, after taking off the beards. Parboil sweetbreads, and cutting them in slices, lay them and the oysters in layers, season very lightly with salt, pepper and mace. Then put half a teacup of liquor, and the same of gravy. Bake in a slow oven; and before you serve, put a teacup of cream, a little more oyster liquor, and a cup of white gravy, all warmed, but not boiled. If for patties, the oysters should be cut in small dice, gently stewed, and seasoned as above, and put into the paste when ready for table.

124 VEAL PATTIES—SWEET PATTIES—APPLE PUFFS.

lobster s. —Make with the same seasoning, a little cream, and the smallest bit of butter.

Podovies, or Beef Patties.—Shred underdone dressed beef with a little fat, season with pepper, salt, and a little shallot or onion. Make a plain paste, roll it thin, and cut it in shape like an apple puff, fill it with the mince, pinch the edges, and fry them of a nice Drown. The paste should De made with a small quantity of butter, egg, and milk.

Veal Patties.—Mince some veal that is not quite done with a little parsley, lemon peel, a scrape of nutmeg, and a bit of salt; add a little cream, and gravy just to moisten the meat; and if you have any ham scrape a little, and add to it. Do not warm it till the patties are baked.

Turkey Patties.—Mince some of the white part, and with grated lemon, nutmeg, salt, a very little white pepper, cream, and a very little bit of butter warmed, fill the patties.

Sweet Patties.—Chop the meat of a boiled calf's foot, of which you use the liquor for jelly, with two apples, one ounce of orange and lemon peel candied, and some fresh peel and juice ; mix with them half a nutmeg grated, the yolk of an egg, a spoonful of brandy, and four ounces of currants washed and dried.

Bake in small patty-pans.

Patties resembling Mince Pies.—Chop the kidney and fat of cold veal, apple, orange, and lemon peel candied, and fresh currants, a little wine, two or three cloves, a little brandy, and a bit of sugar. Bake as before.

Apple Puffs.—Pare the fruit, and either stew them in a stone jar on a hot hearth, or bake them. When cold, mix the pulp of the apple with sugar and lemon peel shred fine, taking as little of the apple juice as you can. Bake them in thin paste, in a quick oven: a quarter of an hour will do them, when small. Orange, or quince marmalade, is a great improvement. Cinnamon pounded, or orange-flower water, in change.

Lemon Puffs.—Beat and sift a pound and a quarter of double refined sugar; grate the rind of two large lemons, and mix it well with the sugar; then beat the whites of three new-laid eggs a

great while, add them to the sugar and peel, and beat it for an our; make it up in any shape you please, and bake it on paper put on tin plates, in a moderate oven. Do not remove the paper till cold. Oiling the paper will make it come off with ease.

Cheese Puffs.—Cream cheese-curd from the whey, and beat half a pint basin of it fine in a mortar, with a spoonful and a half of flour, three eggs, but only one white, a spoonful of orange-flower water, a quarter of a nutmeg, and sugar to make it pretty sweet. Lay a little of this paste, in small very round cakes, on a tin plate. If the oven is hot, a quarter of an hour will bake them. Serve with pudding sauce.

Excellent Light Puffs.—Mix two spoonfuls of flour, a little grated lemon peel, some nutmeg, half a spoonful of brandy, a little loaf sugar, and one egg; then fry it enough, but not brown; beat it in a mortar with five eggs, whites and yolks: put a

VENISON PASTY. 12J

quantity of lard in a frying-pan, and when quite hot drop a dessert-spoonful of batter at a time: turn as they brown. Serve them immediately with sweet sauce.

To prepare Venison for Pasty.—Take the bones out, then season and beat the meat, lay it into a stone jar in large pieces, pour upon it some plain drawn-beef gravy, but not a strong one; lay the bones on the top, then set the jar in a water-bath, that is, a saucepan of water over the fire, simmer three or four hours— then leave it in a cold place till next day. Remove the cake of fat, lay the meat in handsome pieces on the dish; if not sufficiently seasoned, add more pepper, salt, or pimento, as necessary. Put some of the gravy, and keep the remainder for the time of serving. If the venison be thus prepared, it will not require so much time to bake, or such a very thick crust as is usual, and by which the under part is seldom done through.

Venison Pasty.—A shoulder boned makes a good pasty, but it must be beaten and seasoned, and the want of fat supplied by that of a fine well-hung loin of mutton, steeped twenty-four hours in equal parts of rape, vinegar and port. The shoulder being sinewy, it will be of advantage to rub it well with sugarfortwoor three days, and when to be used, wipe it perfectly clean from it, and the wine.

A mistake used to prevail, that venison could not be baked too much; but, as above directed, three or four hours in a slow oven will be quite sufficient to make it tender, and the flavour will be preserved. Either in a shoulder or side, the meat must be cut in pieces, and laid with fat between, that it may be proportioned to each person without breaking up the pasty to find it. Lay some pepper and salt at the bottom of the dish, and some butter; then the meat nicely packed, that it may be sufficiently done, but not lie hollow to harden at the edges.

The venison bones should be boiled with some fine old mutton —of this gravy put half a pint cold into the dish, then lay butter on the venison, and cover as well as line the sides with a thick crust, but do not put one under the meat. Keep the remainder of the gravy till the out comes from the oven; put it into the middle by a funnel, quite hot, and^hake the dish to mix well. It should be seasoned with pepper and salt.

To make a pasty of Beef or Mutton, to eat as well as Venison.—Bone a small rump or a piece of sirloin of beef, or a fat loin of mutton, after hanging several days. Beat it very well with a rolling-pin; then rub ten pounds of meat with four ounces of sugar, and pour over it a glass of port, and the same of vinegar. Let it lie five days and nights; wash and wipe the meat very dry, and season it very high with the best Jamaica pepper, nutmeg, and salt. Lay it in your dish, and to ten pounds put about a pound of butter, spreading it over the meat. Put a crust round the edges, and cover with a thick one, or it will be overdone before the meat be soaked. It must be done in a slow oven.

Set the bones in a pan in the oven, with no more water than will cover them, and one glass of port, a little pepper and salt,

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