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126 POTATO PASTY—UICH CUSTABDS—LEMON CUSTARDS.
that you may have a little rich gravy to add to the paste when drawn.
Note.—Sugar gives a greater shortness, and better flavour to meats than salt, too great a quantity of which hardens, and it is quite as great a preservative.
Potato Pasty. — Boil, peel, and mash potatoes as fine as possible, mix them with salt, pepper, and a good bit of butter. Make a paste; roll it out thin like a large puff, and put in the potato: fold over one half, pinching the edges. Bake in a moderate oven.
Cheap and Excellent Custards.—Boil three pints of new milk, with a bit of lemon peel, a bit of cinnamon, two or three bay leaves, and sweeten it. Meanwhile rub down smooth a large spoonful of rice flour into a cup of cold milk, and mix with it two yolks of eggs well beaten. Take a basin of the boiling milk, and mix with the cold, and then pour that to the boiling; stirring it one way till it begins to thicken, and is just going to boil up; then pour it into a pan, and stir it some time; add a large spoonful of peach water, two tea-spoonfuls of brandy, or a little ratafia. Marbles boiled in custard or anything likely to burn, will, by shaking them in the sauce-pan, prevent it from catching.
Rich Custards.—Boil a pint of milk with lemon peel and cinnamon; mix a pint of cream, and the yolks of five eggs well beaten; when the milk tastes of the seasoning, sweeten it enough for the whole; pour it into the cream, stirring it well; then give the custard a simmer till of a proper thickness. Do not let it boil; stir the whole time one way; season as above. If to be extremely rich, put no milk, but a quart of cream to the eggs.
Baked Custard.—Boil one pint of cream and half a pint of milk, with mace, cinnamon, and lemon peel, a little of each. When cold, mix the yolks of three eggs; sweeten and make your cups or paste nearly full. Bake them ten minutes.
Lemon Custards.—Beat the yolks of eight eggs till they are as white as milk: then put to them a pint of boiling water, the rinds of two lemons grated, and the juice sweetened to your taste. Stir it on the fire till thick enough; then add a large glass of rich wine, and half a glass of brandy; give the whole one scald, and put it in cups, to be eaten cold.
Almond Custard.—Blanch and beat four ounces of almonds fine with a spoonful of water; then beat a pint of cream with two spoonfuls of rose water, and put them to the yolks of four eggs, and as much sugar as will make it pretty sweet; then add the almonds; stir it all over a slow fire till it is of a proper thickness; but do not boil. Pour it into cups.
Cheesecakes.—Strain the whey from the curd of two quarts of milk ; when rather dry, crumble it through the coarse sieve, and mix with six ounces of fresh butter, one ounce of pounded blanched almonds, a little orange-flower water, half a glass of raisin wine, a grated biscuit, four ounces of currants, some nutmeg, and chinaLEMON Dis arrange CHEESECAKES. 127
mon in fine powder, and beat all the above with three eggs, and half a pint of cream, till quite light; then fill the patty-pans three parts full.
A plainer sort. —Turn three quarts of milk to curd, break it and drain the whey; when dry, break it up in a pan, with two ounces of butter, till perfectly smooth; put to it a pint and a half of thin cream, or good milk, and add sugar, cinnamon, nutmeg, and three ounces of currants.
Cheesecakes, another way.—Mix the curd of three quarts of milk, a pound of currants, twelve ounces of Lisbon sugar, a quarter of an ounce of cinnamon, ditto of nutmeg, the peel of one lemon chopped so fine that it becomes a paste, the yolks of eight and whites of six eggs, a pint of scalded cream, and a glass of brandy. Put a light thin puff paste in the patty-pans, and three parts fill them. >
Lemon Cheesecakes. — Mix four ounces of sifted lump sugar, with four ounces of butter, and gently melt it; then add the yolks of two and the white of one egg, the rind of three lemons shred fine, and the juice of one and a half, with one Savoy biscuit, some blanched almonds pounded, and three spoonfuls of brandy; mix well: put in paste made as follows :—Eight ounces of flour, six ounces of butter, two-thirds of which mix with the flour first, then wet it with six spoonfuls of water, and roll the remainder in.
Another way.—Boil two fine large lemons, or three small ones, and after squeezing, pound them well together in a mortar, with four ounces of loaf sugar, the yolks of six eggs, and eight ounces of fresh butter.
Fill the patty-pans half full.
Orange Cheesecakes are done the same way, only you must boil the peel in two or three waters to take out the bitterness, or make them of orange marmalade well beaten in a mortar.
Orange Cheesecakes. — When you have blanched half a pound ot almonds, beat them very fine with orange-flower water, and half a pound of fine sugar beaten and sifted, a pound of butter that has been melted carefully without oiling, and which must be nearly cold before you use it; then beat the yolks of ten, and whites of four eggs; pound two candied oranges, and a fresh one with the bitterness boiled out, in a mortar till as tender as marmalade, without any lumps; and beat the whole together and put into patty-pans.
Potato Cheesecakes.—Boil six ounces of potatoes, and four ounces of lemon peel; beat the latter in a marble mortar with four ounces of sugar: then add the potatoes, beaten, and four ounces of butter melted in a little cream. When well mixed, let it stand to grow cold. Put crust in patty-pans, and rather more than half fill them. Bake in a quick oven half an hour, sifting some double-refined sugar on them when going to the oven,--. This quantity will make a dozen.
Almond Cheesecakes.—Blanch and pound four ounces of sweet almonds, and a few bitter, with a spoonful of water; then
128 EOTAL PASTE, CALLED "AU CHOUX."
add four ounces of sugar pounded, a spoonful of cream, and the whites of two eggs well beaten; mix all as quick as possible : put into very small patty-pans, and bake in a pretty warm oven under twenty minutes.
Another way.—Blanch and pound four ounces of almonds, with a little orange-flower, or rose water; then stir in the yolks of six and whites of three eggs, well beaten, five ounces of butter warmed, the peel of a lemon grated, and a little of the juice: sweeten with fine Lisbon sugar. When well mixed, bake in a delicate paste, in small pans.
Another way.—Press the whey from as much curd as will make two dozen small ones: then put it on the back of a sieve, and with half an ounce of butter rub it through with the back of a spoon; put to it six yolks, and three whites of eggs, and a few bitter almonds pounded with as much sugar as will make the curd properly sweet: mix with it the rind of a lemon grated, and a glass of brandy. Put a puff paste into the pans, and ten minutes will bake them.
Dough Nuts.—Hub a quarter of a pound of butter into a pound of flour, then add six ounces of sugar, three eggs, about a dessert spoonful of yeast, and sufficient milk to make it into a stiff paste. Let it stand to rise, then roll it out, and cut it into shapes with a paste cutter, and boil them in lard, till they are of a nice brown colour.
A Tippling Cake.—Put a sponge cake into a deep china or glass dish, pour round it some white wine (raisin is very suitable), and a wine glass of brandy. Let the cake soak up the wine, and then strew sifted sugar over it, and pour in the dish a rich thick custard, according to your fancy.
Royal Paste, called "Au Choux.'|—This paste is the basis of many sorts of pastry: it is used to mix an infinite number of second-course dishes of various forms, and of different denominations.
Take a stew-pan large enough to contain four quarts of water, pour half a pint of water into it, with a quarter of a pound or a little more of fresh butter, two ounces of sugar, a little salt, and the peel of a lemon; let the whole boil till the butter is entirely melted. Then take some very fine dry flour and shake through a sieve. Take the lemon peel out with a ladle, and throw a handful of flour into the preparation while boiling; take care, however, not to put more flour than the liquor can soak up. Stir with a wooden spoon till the paste can easily be detached from the stew-pan, and then take it off the fire. Next break an egg into this paste, and mix it well: then break a second, which also mix; do not put more eggs than the paste can absorb, but you must be careful not to make this preparation too liquid. It is almost certain, that about five or six eggs will be wanted for the above quantity; then form them en choux, by which is meant in the shape of a ball an inch in circumference. As this paste swells very much, you must dress it accordingly, putting the choux on a baking sheet, at an inch distant from each other, in order that they may
OBSERVATIONS ON DRESSING VEGETABLES. 129
undergo a greater effect in the oven. Brash them over as usual with the dorure or egg-wash, to which hns heen added a little milk. Put them into an oven moderately hot, but do not open the oven till they are quite baked, otherwise they would flatten, and all attempts to make them rise again would be found to be useless: next dry them. Sometimes you may glaze them; at other times you may send them up without being glazed.
To detach them from the baking sheet, apply the sharp edge of your knife, and take them off gently. Then make a small opening on the side, into which put with a tea-spoon such sweetmeats as you think proper, and send them up dished en buisson.
N.B.—Be cautious to smell every egg before you use it, for a bad one would spoil the whole.
*»* This elegant receipt is extracted from " The French Cook," by Mr. Ude.
Observations on Dressing Vegetables.
Vegetarles should be carefully cleaned from insects and nicely washed. Boil them in plenty of water, and drain them the moment they arc done enough. If overboiled, thoy will lose their beauty and crispness. Had cooks sometimes dress them with meat, which is wrong, except carrots with boiling beef.
To Boil Vegetables Green.—Bo sure the water boils when you put the vegetables in. Make them boil very fast. Do not cover, but watch them; and if tho water has not slackened, you may be sure they are done when they begin to sink. Then take them out immediately, or the colour will change. Hard water, especially if chalybeate, spoils the colour of such vegetables as should be green.
To boil them green in hard water, put a tea-spoonful of salt of wormwood into the water when it boils, before the vegetables are put in.
Vegetable Marrow, to Boil or Stew—This excellent vegetable may be boiled as asparagus. When boiled, divide it lengthways into two, and servo it up on toast accompanied by melted butter; or when nearly boiled divide it as above, and stew gently in gravy like cucumbers. Care should be taken to choose young ones not exceeding six inches in length.
To Keep Green Peas.—Shell, and put them into a kettle of water when it boils; give them two or three warms only, and pour them into a colander. When tho water drains off, turn thorn out on a dresser covered with cloth, and pour them on another cloth to dry perfectly. Then bottle them in wide-mouthed bottles, leaving only room to pour clarified mutton-suet upon them an inch thick, and for the cork. Rosin it clown, and keep it in the cellar or in the earth, as will be directed for gooseberries under tho head of " Keeping for Winter." When they are to be used, boil them
ISO OBSERVATIONS ON DRESSING VEGETABLES.
till tender, with a bit of butter, a spoonful of sugar, and a bit of mint.
Another way (as practised in the Emperor of Russia's kitchen). Shell, scald, and dry them as above; put them on tins or earthen dishes in a cool oven, once or twice to harden. Keep them in paper bags hung up in the kitchen. When they are to be used, let them lie an hour in water; then set them on with cold water and a bit of butter, and boil them till ready. Put a sprig of dried mint to boil with them.
Boiled Peas should not be overdone, nor in much water. Chop some scalded mint to garnish them, and stir a piece of butter in with them.
To Stew Green Peas.—Put a quart of peas, a lettuce and an onion, both sliced, a bit of butter, pepper, salt, and no more water than hangs round the lettuce from washing. Stew them two hours very gently. When to be served, beat up an egg, and stir it into them, or a bit of flour and butter.
Some think a tea-spoonful of white powdered sugar is an improvement. Gravy may be added, but then there will be less of the flavour of the peas. Chop a bit of mint and stew in them.
To Stew Old Peas.—Steep them in water all night, if not fine boilers, otherwise half an hour will do; put them into water just enough to cover them, with a good bit of butter or a piece of beef or pork. Stew them very gently till the peas are soft, and the meat is tender; if it is not salt meat, add salt and a little pepper. Serve them round the meat.
To Dress Artichokes.—Trim a few of the outside leaves off, and cut the stalk even. If young, half an hour will boil them. They are better for being gathered two or three days first. Serve them with melted butter, in as many small cups as there are artichokes, to help with each.
Artichoke Bottoms.—If dried they must be soaked, then stewed in weak gravy, and served with or without forcemeat in each; or they may be boiled in milk, and served with cream sauce, or added to ragouts, French pies, &c.
Jerusalem Artichokes must be taken up the moment they are done, or they will be too soft.
They may be boiled plain, or served with white fricassee sauce.
To Stew Cucumbers.—Slice them thick, or halve and divide them into two lengths; strew some salt and pepper and sliced onions; add a little broth or a bit of butter. Simmer very slowly, and before serving, if no butter was in before, put some and a little flour, or if there was butter in, only a little flour, unless it wants richness.
Another way.—Slice the onions, and cut the cucumbers corn flour them, and fry them in some butter; then pour on some good broth or gravy, and stew them till done enough. Skim off the fat.
To Stew Onions.—Peel six large onions; fry gently of a fine brown, but do not blacken them; then put them into a small stew-pan with a little weak gravy, pepper, and salt; cover