Contents. LETTER I. DIEPPE EMBARKATION-Cast anchor opposite Dieppe-Reflections -Appearance of the military-1-6. LETTER II. DIEPPE. Description of the town-French hotel-Carvings in ivory→→ Church of St. Jacques-Paintings-Relics-Boulevards-7-10. LETTER III. ROUEN. Women at Dieppe-Ceremony at the Police-office-Appearance of the country-Châteaux-Approach to Rouen-11-14. LETTER IV. ROUEN. Its population, &c.-Bridge of boats-Cathedral-Church of St. Ouen-High mass-Protestant church-Procession of the Fête Dieu-Convent-House of Voltaire, &c.-15-20. LETTER V. PARIS. Travelling equipage, horses, postilion, &c.-Extensive prospect -Mode of cultivation-Vineyards-Châteaux of Suchet, Victor, and Talleyrand-St. Germain-en-Laye-Malmaison-Entrance into Paris-21-26. LETTER VI. PARIS. Confusion of objects in Paris-Rue de la Paix-Place Vendôme -Triumphal pillar erected by Buonaparte-Vain attempts to remove it-27-30. LETTER VII. PARIS. Louvre-its history-Carousal-The Louvre described-Sculptures-Paintings-Its most valuable treasures removed-Reflections -31-38. LETTER VIII. PARIS. Jardin des Plantes-Determine to visit Savoy-Place Louis XV. Abbé Edgeworth-His account of the death of Louis XVI.-View of the Place Louis XV. from the Tuileries-Te Deum celebrated here for the triumph of the Allies-Reflections-39-48. LETTER IX. PARIS. Luxembourg-its history-Chamber of Peers-Paintings-David -Flight of Cain-Gardens-French politeness-Palais RoyalShops-Coffee-houses-Revolution-Vice in Paris-Political feeling -49-58. LETTER X. PARIS. Critical state of things in Paris-Feeling towards the EnglishOld Noblesse their poverty-Inability of the King to enrich them -59-64. LETTER XI. PARIS. American gentleman-His papers seized, &c.-Espionnage American eagle-Montmartre-Recreations of the citizens-Little domestic happiness-Marriages-Moral condition-Awful vicissitudes of character-65-74. LETTER XII. PARIS. Restaurateurs-Very's-French cookery, &c.-Institute-Royal library-Readers-Freedom of access-Difference of national taste -Hill of Parnassus-Manuscripts-Cabinet of Antiques-Hotel des Invalides-Pantheon-View from the top-Reflections-75-90. LETTER XIII. PARIS-VERSAILLES. Bois de Bologne-St. Cloud-Sévres-Porcelain manufactoryVersailles-Palace-Library-Orangery-Louis XIV.-GardensDeath of Louis XIV.-Mistress of the hotel-91-98. LETTER XIV. PARIS. Tuileries-Madame Bertrand-Revolution-Napolean's state bed-Garden-Reflections-99-104. LETTER XV. PARIS. Sunday in Paris!-Fête Dieu-Chapel Royal-High Mass before the Court The King-Royal Family-Catholic lady-OratoireProtestantism in Paris-and at Nismes-Catholics-Profanation of the Sabbath-Duty of British Christians-Postscript-Comparison of London and Paris, with regard to the observance of the Sabbath-day-105-123. LETTER XVI. PARIS SENS. Museum of French monuments-Catacombs-Meeting_of_the Institute Emperor Alexander-Unitarianism-Leave ParisForest of Fontainebleau-Town-Palace-Table of abdicationApartments of the Pope-Reach Sens-124-140. LETTER XVII, SENS DIJON. Cathedral at Sens-Relics-Champagne-Auxerre-CathedralMonument to the late Royal Family Vermanton-Dijon-Perturbed state of the provinces-State of the peasantry-Tenure of lands-No poor's rates in France-141-151. LETTER XVIII. DIJON GENEVA. Auxonne-First view of the Alps-Enter the first pass of the Jura-Champagnole-Romantic scenery-Beggars-Morez-First view of the Lake of Geneva-Gex-Geneva-152–163. LETTER XIX. GENEVA-CHAMOUNI State of religion in Geneva-Voltaire-Description of the cityEpiscopal chapel-The Lake-Environs-Alps-Junction of the Arve and the Rhone-Bonneville Savoyard soldier-Church of Bonneville-Shepherd's fête-Cluse-Bosquets de Maglan-Cataracts, D'Orli and Arpenas-St. Martin's-Chede-View of Mont Blanc-Servoz-Monumental inscription-Enter the vale of Chamouni-Glacier des Bossons-General aspect of the vale of Chamonni-164-194, LETTER XX. CHAMOUNI. Ascent of Montanvert-Crottes-The method of descending from Mont Blanc adopted by M. de Saussure and his party-Hospice Mer de Glace Surrounding scenery-Feelings excited by it-Le Jardin-Glacier de Bois-An Avalanche Source of the ArveronDreadful calamity that befel a Genevese family-Hamlet de BoisDwellings-Mode of living-Hunting the Chamois Church of Chamouni-Museum-View of Mont Blanc from the vale of Chamouni-Moonlight scene-Various attempts to reach the summit of Mont Blanc-Dr. Paccard's successful effort-Goitres-195-228. LETTER XXI. CHAMOUNI-MARTIGNY-LAUSANNE. Leave Chamouni-Parting view of the vale-Valorsine-Mauvais Pas-Trient-Forcla-Indulgences-Martigny-Buonaparte--Pisse Vache-St. Maurice-Enter the Pays de Vaud-Costume of the women-Bex-Salt works--Meillerie--Rousseau--Castle of Chillon -Lake-Lausanne-229-255. LETTER XXII. LAUSANNE-MORAT. Situation of Lausanne-Protestant service in the CathedralPrevalence of education in the Pays de Vaud-Moonlight view of the Lake of Geneva-Geography of it-Imitation of French manners in Lausanne-Leave Lausanne-Payerne-Morat-Battle of, 1476-Lake-256-265. LETTER XXIII. BERN-BASLE. Costume of Bern-City described-Cathedral-Criminals sweeping the streets-Leave Bern for Soleure-Fine view of the Alps Soleure Liechstall-Rhine-Basle-Cathedral-Library— University-Manufactures-Police-266-278. LETTER XXIV. FRIBOURG-KEHL. Enter Germany-Black Forest-Wolves-Fribourg-Landlord of the inn-Emperor Alexander-Cathedral-Library-ConventPleasing manners of the Superior--Nuns teach a school-Chapel of the Convent-Skeleton of St. Felician-His miracles-Monastery -Monks-Conversation-Their cells-Chapel-279–289. Cathedral of Strasburg--Ascent to the top of its spire--Monument of Marshal Saxe--Spire--Catechising in the Lutheran church--Man- heim--Palace of the Grand Duke of Baden-Bergstrasse-Darmstadt --Frankfort--Cathedral--Interesting ceremony--Hocheim--290--300. Mentz described-Cathedral-Art of Printing invented in Mentz -Voyage down the Rhine-Palace of the Grand Duke of Nas- sau-Caub-Coblentz-General Gneisenau-Seven mountains- Church of St. Pierre-Painting by Rubens-Rubens born at Cologne-Cathedral-Paintings-Mausoleum of the Three Kings Jackson LETTERS, &c. LETTER I. DIEPPE. MY DEAR WE landed at this place, this afternoon about three o'clock, in excellent health and spirits, after a remarkably fine passage across the channel. We sailed from Brighton at one in the morning; - but the work of embarkation commenced at eleven the previous night—and an unpleasant and troublesome work it was. As there is no quay at Brighton, the packets cannot get within a considerable distance of the shore. First, then, we had to scramble through the breakers into a small boat, which conveyed us B |