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LETTERS FROM AN ARTIST.

LETTER I.

BOULOGNE.-FEMALE PORTERS.-ABBEVILLE.-A

FRENCH DINNER.-BEAUVOIS.-JEANNE HATCHETTE. ST. DENIS.-PARIS.-THE LOUVRE. -THE EXHIBITION OF THE BEAUX ARTS.THE LUXEMBURG GALLERY.

To the Editor of the Halifax Express.

Paris, Aug. 31, 1840.

Dear Sir,-Before I left Halifax I promised to furnish you, from time to time, with a few remarks upon the scenery through which we should pass, and the Galleries that we might visit, during our continental tour; but whether any thing that I can say will be sufficiently interesting for the columns of your journal, must be left entirely with yourself.

We left London on the 8th of August, and had a most delightful sail down the Thames, and across the Channel. We landed at Boulogne ; and our luggage was carried for us by females. The inhabitants of my native town would be quite amazed to see hardy looking, elderly women waiting to carry the luggage of travellers; but at Boulogne, strange as it may seem, female porters carry packages more fit for strong men. While we were waiting at the Custom House, we saw them eating their dry bread, and chattering with a volubility which would amuse you. I have often felt very uncomfortable in letting them carry my trunk; for it did not seem to me to be right or becoming that a woman should load herself with the travelling luggage of a young man, while he was going empty-handed; but custom recon

B

ciles us to many things which at first appear very unnatural; and so we let the women have their own way.

We quitted Boulogne, for Paris; and, on our journey, the diligence stopped at Abbeville, on the river Somme. We dined there; and, to give you some idea of a French dinner for coach passengers, I will describe the repast. In the first place, we had soup; then bouille,—that is, the meat from which the soup is made; then larded veal; next fish; then fowls; after these, mutton cutlets, with vegetables and salad. Pastry followed, and a dessert of apples, pears, almonds and raisins, butter and cheese, wine, &c. The whole was finished with coffee. Some of your readers may say that so many dishes were unnecessary, and that no individual could partake of them all. Neither I nor my companion ate from every dish; but there were, at the table, several persons who partook, more or less, of each. You will see that travellers are not likely to be starved between Boulogne and Paris.

Abbeville is a town of some size, and contains 20,000 inhabitants. Its situation is pleasant, and also advantageous for commerce, as the river there admits vessels of one hundred tons' burden. It is a fortified town; but I should not say that it is remarkable for strength. It was, formerly, a place of some consequence; and, before the Revolution, its environs were adorned by many fine seats belonging to the gentry. The effects of that unhappy period are still very visible. The Cathedral, or Church, which is dedicated to St. Wulfrom, is a fine Gothic building. Before the disturbances, it had two beautiful colossal statues at its front gates; but, at that time, they were mutilated and spoiled by the brutal barbarism of an infuriated populace, which always spreads devastation on all within its reach. In times of the ebullition of popular fury,-in an emeute, as they call it on this side of the water, the venerable temples raised by the piety of former ages, are wantonly injured. No respect is shown to the sanctity of the place, or to the monuments that cover the remains of our forefathers. The portal of this Cathedral,

and the two lofty, square towers which rise above it, are still objects worthy particular attention.

Near Abbeville is a mound called Cæsar's Camp. The intrenchments may be seen very distinctly; and the site commands a fine view of the adjacent country. We were told that Roman coins and other antiquities were frequently found near this place.

We passed through several villages, and then we came to Beauvois, which is memorable for the siege which it sustained in the year 1472, when Jeanne Hatchette headed the females of the town, and defended it against the Duke of Burgundy, whom they compelled to raise the siege and abandon his enterprise. There is a procession on the 10th of July, in commemoration of the event; and the women take precedence of the men, in compliment to their bravery on that occasion.

The Cathedral of Beauvois merits notice; and, although unfinished, is a fine building. The painted glass of its windows is exceedingly good, and gives a fine effect to the interior. for its elegant proportions. of tapestry is shown here. the Paralytic.

The choir is much admired
A most beautiful specimen
The subject is the Cure of

The country between Beauvois and Beaumont is rich in vineyards and corn fields; and the same may be said of the scenery all the way to St. Denis.

Long before reaching St. Denis, you may perceive that you are approaching Paris. The population becomes greater; there are many gentlemen's seats; instead of corn fields, there are villages, with gardens; while the parks and demesnes of the nobility enrich and vary the scenery. St. Denis is only six miles from Paris; and, being so near the metropolis, its population has a very bustling appearance.

The Cathedral here merits attention; and we were told that a curious stranger would be amply repaid in viewing the interior, as it is the burial place of the French monarchs; but we had not time to see the memorials of these great men.

To attempt to give you an epitome of what is to he

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