over a very long bridge, and then passes through the town of Cluse. The valley is cultivated throughout, and is encircled with hills of the most picturesque forms. The Alps increased in grandeur as we approached nearer to them; and the valley became narrower. Before arriving at St. Martin's, we passed Mont Verans, which has its strata of rock, &c., very much diversified ; some being oblique, others perpendicular, and others horizontal, as if some convulsion of nature had placed them in those positions, for the amusement of geologists. About one-third from its summit, there is a very pretty waterfall, called Nant d' Arpenas. It comes from between two rocks, and, losing itself in spray, gives the idea of a rocket being fired off. A little lower down, it collects again, and forms two small rivulets, which water the ground, and diffuse around a most refreshing coolness.

On the opposite side of the valley is Grange Douay, a high hill, the summit of which is formed of craggy rocks, and which is cultivated to a considerable distance from its base. The few houses that we saw in the valley appeared but small, in contrast with the magnitude of the surrounding hills.

At the bridge of St. Martin, there is a fine view of Mont Blanc; and, on a clear day, it must be magnifieent, as, from that point, the traveller can see to its summit, which is said to be a distance of twelve miles in a direct line. We were sorry to find this view obscured by clouds; yet the gloom thrown over the scene by the rolling elements, left the mind at liberty to form some conception of what must be the vastness of the prospect, when seen through a clear atmosphere. As we proceeded on our way, the clouds occasionally parted, and allowed the mighty monarch of the Alps to peep over their rolling volumes, and to give us, for a moment, a splendid sight of his august majesty.

After leaving St. Martin's, the road crosses a torrent called Nant Sauvage, and passes through a wild country. At times, Mont Blanc appeared very brilliant, from the powerful rays of the sun, contrasted with the grey

colours of the clouds which continued to roll, in large dense masses, down his stupendous sides, and often parted, allowing a view of the majestic mountain, where you would expect that nothing but the blue expanse could be seen. At these openings in the clouds, other clouds were seen, in long perspective, behind; and their bright edges, when contrasted with the deep azure, gave a wonderful effect to the snow on the minor hills. The bare craggs did not offend the eye; but, from their great distance, added solemnity to the scene.

'Tis distance lends enchantment to the view,
And robes the mountain in its azure hue.

From where we stood, one of the hills near the foot of Mont Blanc, appeared, in the distance, to be clothed with verdure to its summit; but, judge of our surprise when, on arriving at it, after travelling many a weary mile, we found it covered with large trees and high rocks; and what we had supposed to be a rivulet, was a mighty torrent. Its grandeur was such, that we gazed in astonishment at the gigantic objects before which we stood.

On ascending the hill, we met with one of those interesting scenes that are so frequently witnessed in this country. At a turn of the road, we saw before us a large rock, which appeared to block up our way, and around which a number of goats were picking the scanty herbage. At a distance was a girl driving two cows and a few goats. She had a long stick, and was sounding a horn, which is peculiar to this country, and to which the animals come, as dogs do to a whistle. These formed a group; and the surrounding hills added to the living picture, strongly reminding us of the subjects of Cuyp and Berghem.

After winding up the hill for a considerable time, we again crossed the Arve, at Pont Pelliseur, which is situated amidst Alpine scenery of a very bold character. In an abyss below us, was a roaring torrent, forcing its way amongst rocks of the most frightful appearance,

and by trees, whose branches and trunks,-the growth of ages, had been broken into the most picturesque forms, by the falls of avalanches. As we advanced, the scenery increased in wildness, which the evening twilight made more awful, and in some measure prevented us from seeing in all its magnitude and grandeur.

We passed the Glacier of Bossons. It is of dazzling whiteness; and the passing clouds allowed us to enjoy, for a short time, the fine effect of the moonlight upon the snow and the glaciers. The Mer de Glace was visible from where we stood, though the distance was more than a league. The hills assumed a variety of forms and hues, to which the soft and clear light of the moon imparted grandeur; and Coleridge's fine description of these very scenes rushed upon our minds, with all the invigorating enthusiasm of true poetry.

And you, ye five wild torrents fiercely clad!
Who called you forth from night and utter death,
From dark and icy caverns called you forth,
Down those precipitous, black, jagged rocks,
For ever shattered, and the same for ever?
Who gave you your invulnerable life,

Your strength, your speed, your fury, and your joy,
Unceasing thunder and eternal foam ?

And who commanded (and the silence came)

Here let the billows stiffen and have rest?

Ye ice-falls! ye that from the mountain's brow,
Adown enormous ravines slope amain,-
Torrents, methinks, that heard a mighty voice,
And stopped at once amid their maddest plunge!
Motionless torrents! silent cataracts'

Who made you glorious as the gates of heaven,
Beneath the keen, full moon? Who bade the sun
Clothe you with rainbows? Who, with living flowers
Of loveliest blue, spread garlands at your feet?
GOD! let the torrents, like a shout of nations,
Answer; and let the ice plains echo, GOD!
GOD! sing ye meadow-streams with gladsome voice,
Ye pine-groves with your soft and soul-like sound.
And they too have a voice, yon piles of snow,
And in their perilous fall shall thunder, GOD'

Shortly afterwards, we arrived at the far-famed valley of Chamouni; and, from the fatigue of our day's journey, we were very willing to leave scenery so enchantingly grand and sublime, to recruit exhausted nature by a good fire and a comfortable bed at the Hotel de l'Union.

I am, Dear Sir, yours truly,

J. H.

LETTER IV.

THE VALLEY OF CHAMOUNI.-MONT FLEGUIRE. -MODE OF ASCENDING MONT BLANC.-FALL OF AN AVALANCHE.-MONTANVERT.-THE MER DE GLACE. THE MOUNTAINEERS.-THE COL DE BALME.-MARTIGNY.-THE

PISVACHE.—

THE SALT MINES.-LAUSANNE.-THE SALEVE. -RETURN TO GENEVA.

To the Editor of the Halifax Express.

Geneva, Sept. 21, 1840.

Dear Sir,-My last letter left us at the Hotel de l'Union, in the Valley of Chamouni. The valley is 3,000 feet above the level of the sea, and is surrounded by mountains, of great height, and covered with snow. Gloomy forests of fir trees grow upon the hills; but the mountains above them are entirely barren. In the more sheltered situations there are small hamlets; and in the glens are brawling brooks and picturesque waterfalls. The glaciers are of a brilliant white; and from their surfaces rise pinnacle-shaped pieces of ice, which, when illuminated by the sun, have their reflections of a beautiful green. By moonlight, these masses of ice display a rich variety of colours.

Early on the morning of the 15th instant, we set off for Mont Fleguire; and had, from its summit, an extensive view of the Mer de Glace and the surrounding hills. Our guide pointed out to us the different restingplaces at which travellers stop in their ascent of Mont Blanc. The ascent requires many guides to be engaged, even for a small party; as tents, ladders, charcoal, provisions, &c. for the journey, have to be carried along with them. Each individual is provided with a