1830.] MR. URBAN, Church of Teffont Ewyas, Wilts. Aug. 12. A with views of many of the new Churches in and near the Metropolis, I hope you will oblige me by inserting a view of the Church of Teffont Ewyas, co. Wilts (see Pl. 1.), one which for external neatness and internal beauty is superior to most of the Churches in the West of England. This church has lately been rebuilt, and the tower added, chiefly by the exertions of J.T. Mayne, Esq: F.R.S. F.S.A. the lord of the manor and patron of the Church, aided by the contributions of his friends. S you have of late favoured us Since the engraving was made, Mr. Mayne has continued to improve the beauty of the Church, by raising the Chancel to within a few feet of the height of the nave, and by adding three open quatrefoils between each pinnacle of the tower; and Mr. Mayne has in contemplation to add also a spire. Teffont Ewyas is in the Hundred of Donworth, co.. Wilts. The parish consists of about 700 acres, and is situated in a pleasant retired valley, near the turnpike road.from Hindon to Salisbury, from which city it is distant nine miles. The freestone quarries at the verge of this parish, supplied in a great measure the stone for Salisbury Cathedral, more than thirty acres of land having been excavated for that purpose, and these same quarries have supplied the stone for the late rebuilding of Teffont Ewyas Church. The additional name of Ewyas was derived from a former possessor, who enjoyed also the barony of Ewyas in Herefordshire. The distinguished families of Tregoż and Hussey were successively lords of this parish. With an heiress of the Husseys the manor passed to Sir Thomas Hungerford, the first appointed Speaker of the House of Commons. In 1545 the Crown granted the manor to H. Ley, Esq. father of James Ley; Earl of Marlborough, Chief Justice of the King's Bench, and Lord High Treasurer of England. The Earl died at Lincoln's Inn 1628, and was buried at Westbury, Wilts, where a stately monument was erected to his memory.' In the Chancel of Teflont Ewyas is an altar monument, on which are three male figures, in recumbent postures. That nearest the wall is elevated, above the other two, and reGENT. MAG. August, 1830. 105 presents H. Ley, Esq. in black armour, his head resting on a cushion, and his feet on a lion couchant. The other two figures represent his sons William and Matthew, also habited in armour, with trunk hose and large ruffs round their necks. All three have been painted, but the legs of all are broken. Above this monument, but forming a part of it, are the arms of Ley, viz. Argent, a chevron between three wolves' heads caboshed Sable, langued Gules; impaling, Argent, two chevrons Sable, a label in chief Vert. Beneath, on a tablet of black marble, is the following inscription: "D.O. M. S. Hic requiescunt in morte HENRICI LEY, Arm. reliquiæ, qui ex veteri LEYORUM prosapiâ in agro Devon oriundus, è Dyonisia de St. Mayne, conjuge, numerosam dignioris sexus suscepit propaginem, viz. WILLIELMUM et MATTHEUM (quorum hic visuntur imagines, et subter sita sunt ossa), Johannem, Henricum, Petrum, atque insuper Jacobum, Malbrigi Comitem, Angliæ Thesaurárium. Obiit a natâ salute M.D.LXXIII. Junii VII." At the West end of this monument, beneath the heads of the two lower figures, on black marble tablets, are these inscriptions: "WILLIELMUS LEY, Arm. octogenario major et cœlebs, cœlos adiit, æræ Christ. M.DC.XXIIII. April v." "MATTH. LEY, Ar., vir plenus virtutum et dierum, placidè animam Deo reddidit Maii XXIIII. M.DC.XXXII. ætat' suæ LXXXVII." Between these inscriptions, on an oval shield, are the arms of Ley, surmounted by a helmet, the crest broken off. - On the South side of the monument are three oval shields, the first displaying the arms of Ley, the other defaced. In the time of Charles II. the manor of Teffont Ewyas was in possession of the Ash family; they sold it in 1679 to Christopher Mayne, Esq. ancestor of the present possessor. Of the family of Mayne, a full account and pedigree may be seen in Sir R. C. Hoare's History of Dunworth Hundred, pp. 111, 112. The lives of two eminent ecclesiastics of this family, Dr. Jasper Mayne, and Alexander Mayne, are recorded by Wood in his "Athenæ Oxonienses.' In the sepulchral vault at Teffont is a handsome cenotaph, erected by Isabella, the last Countess of Dundonald, 106 Walk through the Highlands.-Island of Staffa. only daughter of Samuel Raymond, of Belchamp Hall, co. Essex, to the memory of her first husband, John Mayne, Esq. of the Temple, barrister at law, who died anno 1785, and to the memory of the Mompesson, Waldron, and Batt families, successively intermarried, and who with his kindred and relations were buried underneath. There are also three other monuments to the family of Mayne, the inscriptions on which will be found in Sir R. C. Hoare's "History of Dunworth Hundred." N. R. S. WALK THROUGH THE HIGHLANDS. (Continued from Part i. p. 604.) E had now made considerable way Waards the island of Staffa, the object of our voyage, when we first discovered a very handsome and gallant wherry advancing majestically with all sail towards the same destination. We rejoiced in the prospect of company, with whom, as the day was now delightfully fine, we might explore the cavern with advantage. We were considerably ahead, and landed first. This process was extremely troublesome, for though the boat was drawn well up to the shore, yet the way was rough and difficult, lying over the broken and very uneven columns of basalt, lately washed by the waves, covered over with slime and sea weed, and extremely slippery. We were moreover benumbed with cold, and far from having the perfect use of either our hands or feet, which were also cramped from our long confinement in the boat. Our advances therefore were slow and awkward; but the road, as we ascended from the sea, became less slippery, and, with the assistance of our guides, we speedily arrived at the Cavern. The swell and the surf were on this occasion so violent, that there was no possibility of entering the cave in the boat. We had, therefore, with the aid of our boatmen, who were extremely careful and adroit, to penetrate to the end of the cavern on foot. We had scarcely entered its mouth, ere it required the utmost care and considerable coolness to advance. The ledge of rock which supported our steps was extremely rugged, and sometimes slippery; in some places frightfully narrow, and with but a very moderate portion of light. In one partimolar part there is scarcely room for [Aug. one foot, the portion of rock not being the width of a shoe-sole, aud bere, unless supported by the boatmen, who know the path well, and creep down below, there would I conceive be an absolute necessity for retreating. The nails of our shoes, from our now extended peregrinations, had been worn completely smooth, and we felt our footing very unstable. One false step would have precipitated us over sharp and rugged rocks into the sea, roaring at a great depth below. A person whose nerves were not tolerably well strung, would feel himself in a very unpleasant situation, and, upon the whole, I think the way is not without danger to those even of the coolest temperament. Certainly it was a path I should not like to tread a second time; and this same step before mentioned has I understand deterred not a few from encountering it once. Amongst the rest our boatmen informed us that the Duke of Argyle, on a late visit, chose rather to swim into the cavern, in which exploit he was accompanied by Staffa, the proprietor of the island. For my own part, I was not sorry when I once more saw the light of day on the outside of the cavern. We remained a considerable time in absolute astonishment, under the imposing roof of this stupendous edifice, built without hands, and in which the sound of the hammer had never been heard. The entrance is spacious, broad, and lofty. The sides and roof are composed of the basaltic pillars before named, ranged in the nicest order. Below is the sea,-at the time we were there of the most beautiful green; the sides and further end of the cavern edged with foam. Altogether the appearance is wonderfully imposing; something of a superstitious dread creeps over the beholder, and the cave itself appears awful as the consecrated roof, Re-echoing pious anthems." Looking outwards, you have a very extensive and most magnificent view of the surrounding ocean, whose waves by their sullen roar delight and elevate the mind, and force it to look up with wonder at the works of the great Architect of all things. The most indifferent observer must I think be stricken with the moving scenes around him, and go forth from their contemplation humbled and subdued. Finally, the magnificence which here meets the eye, and of which I find myself alto 1830.] Walk through the Highlands.-Island of Staffa. gether unable to give any adequate idea, is not to be conceived by individuals who have not themselves visited the spot; in attempting to delineate it, both the pen and the pencil absolutely fail, and I can only say that if we had no other sights to boast of, all our privations and fatigues would have been far more than repaid by ten minutes contemplation of the wonders that present themselves in this dwelling of the mighty Fingal-the stupendous cavern of Staffa. The island itself is by no means Jarge; it is just such a one as a man might "carry home in his pocket, and give his son for an apple," yet it contains several other caverns, magnificent indeed, but all yielding in this respect to the boast of the island above described. The pillars on the outside of the cavern are also wonderfully striking, seated on which, while the Sun was now bright and warm, we enjoyed surprisingly the scenery around usthe golden waves, the skies without a cloud. Before leaving the cavern the sailors requested we would inscribe our names on its walls. This we attempted to do, though our station was far from appearing pleasantly secure, and though the waves were roaring in all their appalling majesty beneath us. Our friends eagerly watching every motion of the pen-knife, appeared wonderfully delighted with the operation, and shouted out the letters as soon as they were embodied. When this business was accomplished, we emerged, nothing loth, into the open day, and observed the crew now landed from the wherry approaching cautiously over the rocks. They join ed us, and we discovered that they were two Lairds, with some friend's from England-a gamekeeper with a gun to fire in the cave, and a piper in proper costume, to make it resound to his music. One of these gentlemen, of a most venerable appearance, with long grey hair, was clad in the true fashion of his country, in the bonnet and kilt. With a long staff in his hand, he placed himself imposingly in a nitch of the island, of considerable elevation, and in this his lofty station, stood forth as the genius of the place. His appearance was most striking, and though I conclude he had an eye to effect, yet his every action appeared altogether void of affectation. His form was manly, yet his countenance had a 107 strong expression of melancholy, and his grey locks waved in the blast. We were sorry to see him quit his elevation, and descend to the level of more humble mortals. During this time I had entered into conversation with the other Laird of the party, who, plain in his manners and appearance, yet deported himself towards us with the utmost politeness. In the first place he informed us that his party had observed us in the squall, from which they were perfectly free, and had thought our situation extremely perilous. Accordingly he congratulated us most heartily on our escape. He was anxious to know what we thought of this boast of his country, and appeared much pleased with our unfeigned expressions of delight. Shortly after this the gun was fired, the sound reverberated magnificently through the rocks, and as it died away the piper commenced a pibrock. The effect altogether was very pleasing; our remote situation, the stupendous pillars,the Highlanders with their appropriate dresses and music, forcibly struck the imagination, and we almost fancied ourselves, by some magic spell, carried far back into the days of other years. When this ceremony was over, we were eager to depart; for the day wore, and we had yet to travel a considerable distance over the expanse of waters. We therefore bad adieu to our Highlanders, and about two o'clock resumed our seats in the boat. The day continued beautifully fine, and we looked forward with pleasure to the remainder of our voyage. The swell was considerable, but it imparted to our boat no unpleasant motion, and once more the waves foamed before our dark prow, and we bounded lightly over the world of waters. Soon we brought to under the consecrated shores of lona. At first landing we were beset by crowds of half-naked children, clamorously requesting us to purchase some of their Iona pebbles, which are of little value, but sometimes set in small seals or brooches. As soon as we had divested ourselves of these imps, we travelled on, under the direction of our boatmen, towards the venerable ruins, forming the chief or indeed only ornaments of the island. The way to these ancient piles was neglected and swampy, the little path discoverable nearly overgrown with 108 Walk through the Highlands.-lona. weeds, or hid under heaps of loose stones and rubbish, and the very chapel itself appeared to have afforded a shelter to the beasts which perish. It seemed also to have suffered profanation from the scarcely less grovelling lords of the creation. We strolled from our guides, who found occupation amongst their friends the islanders, and wandered as chance led under the shade of, these consecrated arches. Our meditations there, though sombre, were far from unpleasant, and we would willingly have spent a much longer time than we now possibly could do, in the indulgence of them. This little island, echoing to the waves of the Atlantic, so remote, and of such antiquity, necessarily inspires a soothing melancholy, and, though I had been astonished at the wonders of Staffa, I think I experienced far more pleasing emotions amongst the ruins of Iona. Under the direction of one of the principal inhabitants of the island, of the name of Lamont, we re-visited the different ruins in regular order. And first we came to the Chapel of St. Oran, one of the earliest dwellers in Iona whose name is handed down in history. Lamont related to us, at considerable length, and in exceeding good language, his tragical end,-how he was buried alive, and the Church dedicated to him; with divers other circumstances, exceedingly interesting, but too well known to need repetition. In this Chapel, I think, though the inside has been long exposed to the blasts of Heaven, as well as the profanation of the people, several tombs remain entire, as does also the font for holy water. On these tombs are carved, and not inelegantly, the figures at full length of the heroes who sleep be neath, with their various bearings and devices. The inscriptions too, in many of them, are distinct, but of so ancient a character, that a modern traveller finds himself puzzled to decypher them. We attempted to do this, and were greatly assisted by Lamont, who appeared to have a tolerable knowledge of the Latin language, in which they were composed. He had read much on the subject, and was equally learned in tradition. He gave us the names of the heroes in the most pleasing and unaffected manner, with many interesting though probably fabulous particulars relating to their fate-veris miscens falsa. This he was far from [Aug. wishing to conceal, not unfrequently "I know not how the truth may be, Leaving the sacred roof of St. Oran, we returned once more into the open air, and found ourselves amongst the tombs of Kings,-several of Scottish, some of Norwegian and Irish, and one of French extraction. "Under this grave (continued Lamont) rests the once powerful chieftain M'Query, the tomb ornamented by his broad claymore and shield. This (said he) is the tomb of Macdonald, Lord of the Isles, and many a brave spoil did he bring home in that ship! At his interment were slaughtered 300 Scotch cows, and his friends feasted over his grave." Not far from this place he pointed out to us St. Martin's Cross, plain but venerable, and informed us that several others had once stood in its neighbourhood, some of which had remained entire till within a very few years. In the College Court is some curious carving, such as might be expected from the times in which it was executed. Amongst other figures were those of Adam and Eve, and one still more grotesque of Satan and an Archangel. The latter is represented weighing the soul of a sinner, for which the Arch-fiend is waiting apparently with the utmost impatience. Several other objects of curiosity did our guide point out to us, but our time was so short, and our boatmen so impatient, that we were unable to give them that attention which they so well merited. My narration even of the most striking is necessarily very imperfect: "for my recollection falters, And, like a waxen image 'gainst a fire, Bears no impression of the thing it was." I regret exceedingly the very limited time we were enabled to spend on Iona, for never did the contemplation of any other spot, however interesting, afford the greater satisfaction. Lamont accompanied us to the water's edge, and took leave of us with the greatest politeness; and after, at his desire, presenting him with our cards, we gave him a hearty shake of the hand, which, as we were stepping into the boat, he returned with much cordiality, and we parted mutually pleased. The offering our hands seem |
