foot, are watching to catch a glimpse of the ill-fated Rose of Torridge.

Marsland-mouth is still unchanged, where Lucy Passmore, the white witch, lived: lights still twinkle in the fisher-town, and the stream leaps down the chasm, as when the two brothers kept their late watch for the Portugal; still the thousand crests of foam fleck the sea, as on the night when Eustace and Don Guzman bore Rose Salterne to dim Lundy Island: the dreary moors, the hazy flats, the rich salt-marshes, and the green plain where the cattle graze, the land-locked Torridge, the wind-clipt oakwoods, the crags of slate, set in rings of fern, and the old Roman road from the Dikes to Launceston, are all the same to-day. There too is the rocky knoll, where Mrs. Leigh prayed, when, with the sound of music, amid the thunder of ordnance, and the cheers of old and young, the tall ship Rose sailed out over the Bar, with the dear enthusiast on board, whom her eyes should see no more, till the sails vanished in the haze of the great Atlantic. When the blithe church-peal chimes, we might fancy it was bidding welcome to the brave mariner from the rout of the Armada, or the blind sea-captain, led by his Indian bride home through Burrough-gates.

Sir Bevil Grenville of Stow was the first who suggested the substitution of pit-coal for wood or charcoal in the smelting-houses.

Two miles down the river is the Hubblestone, which marks the grave of Hubba, who arrived with 23 ships, but was defeated at Appledore, with the loss of his raven banner, and slain here, 878. In that rocky coffin he sleeps, say the boatmen, with the gold circlet on his brow, and his magic treasure by his side. At Kenwith Castle one mile distant north-west, 500 of the men of Devon, rendered desperate by hunger, chased the Danish besiegers back to their boats, and slew 800 of their number at the "Corner of Blood."

Excursions may be made to St. Margaret's, Northam (2 miles), Appledore (3 miles), and Wear Gifford (Earl Fortescue) (4 miles), remarkable for a patriarchal oak with

a trunk 28 feet in diameter, and for the ancient manorhouse, with curious tapestries, a superbly-carved oaken roof in the hall, rich panelling, and an old gate-house. At Orleigh (5 miles) there is an outlet of the Haldon green-sand; and between Peppercombe and Palledgemouth is an outlier of red sandstone. On the sides of the estuary a raised beach is noticeable; and a seam of anthracite occurs in the hills, running towards Chettlehampton. At Northam Burrows (2 miles), reaching from the Bar to the West Headland, there is a natural, but impervious rampart of gray boulders, slate, and sandstone, 50 feet wide, 20 feet high, and 2 miles long, which protects a fine extent of smooth alluvial turf, covering 1000 acres, from the high spring-tides, a scene like that described by Crabbe,

"Where all is pebbly length of shore,

And far as eye can reach, it can discern no more."

At night the scene is one of awe and interest. The occasional gleam of the lighthouse, and the faint glimmer of the sea, only chequer the darkness. The hoarse hollow booming of the clamorous deep grows nearer and nearer with the rising tide, sweeping, rushing, breaking; the fall of the billow, with a noise of thunder, is succeeded by the harsh grating of the pebbles, and the bubbling seething of the surf; whilst far off, in the pauses, is heard the solemn beating of the rollers against the outer cliffs, a sound inexpressibly solemn, and of melancholy majesty. The gradual formation and deposit of these boulders, laid with a marvellous regularity as an impregnable sea-wall, are as full of interest as the fossil-beds of Dorset.

On the Braunton Burrows are two lighthouses. Among the sands are found golden trefoil, and crimson Our Lady's fingers; and inland, the wail of the snipe, the cry of the otter to its brood, and the hoot of the owl, will attract the notice of those denizens of towns who are unaccustomed to such sounds.

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INSTOW-QUAY,

recently known as a rising watering-place, stands on the estuary of the Taw and Torridge: in common with airy Bideford, and busy Appledore, prolific in laver, its pretty villas command views of the vale, with its winding river, the woods of Tapley Park, the tower of Northam, the Bar, and Braunton Burrows. The church of St. John (A. F. Lloyd, R.) is Perpendicular: St. Mary's (Thos. Cleveland), Appledore, was built in 1840. The railway to Barnstaple was opened in the autumn of 1855.

By the road, Barnstaple is distant 9 miles from Bideford several coaches run daily between Barnstaple and Ilfracombe (11 miles).

ILFRACOMBE.

"And the stately ships go on

To their haven under the hill;

But oh, for the touch of a vanished hand,
And the sound of a voice that is still!

Break, break, break,

At the foot of thy crags, O sea;

But the tender grace of a day that is dead

Will never come back to me.' ""

Such, too frequently, are the memories connected with the watering-places-as often the scene of the last days of the invalid, as of the recreation of the happy and healthy visitor. The fine clear bracing air of Ilfracombe (Ilfordcombe) is, however, we trust destined to revive or restore many a feeble constitution. Its situation, and the irregularity of its steep and narrow streets, give the town a singular appearance. It is built of gray stone, in a valley, and along the side of a hill, parallel with the sea. The

main street is a mile long. The Capstone, a conical flagcrowned mound of shale, with veins of white quartz, and a promenade, scarped out in curves upon its front, being interposed between the houses and the channel, shelters them from the north and north-westerly winds. A little brook, entering the sea, breaks the line. On the landward side-slope, an amphitheatre of slopes covered with verdant turf, and along the green fields of the Runnacleaves, are handsome terraces; the bold lofty cliffs-a front of rocks-descend in abrupt and rugged steeps to the water. Behind are high downs, covered with golden furze, and a country billowy with hills; some vast as a mountain, some wooded, and others clad with cultivated fields, and edged with rugged borders of rock.

Between the Capstone and the Runnacleaves, is the outlet of the brawling stream which gives name to the little cove of Wildersmouth; with a pebbly beach and rough ledges projecting into the sea, rising as the tide falls, and their crannied pools emptying or filling with the ebb or flow. Broad gray rocks-one bears the name of the Lion-hedge it in, deeply fissured, and remarkable for the angular inclination of the strata, argillaceous slate (grauwacke), with veins of quartz. Up the sides of the Capstone are hewn zigzag paths, which lead to a glorious prospect: the broad Bristol Channel, with its various hues-deep blue in the midst, golden in the sun, pale white outside the dark shadows under the cliffs. Beyond is the Worm's Head, the far point of the long northern coast of Caermarthen Bay, with range beyond range of the mountains of South Wales; and in the direction of the church, occupying the mid distance, and seeming like a sentinel on the watch, are the seven shaggy peaks of the Torrs, shaped like a stranded sea-monster; the round down of Langley Cleeve, and the cone-shaped crest of Carntop to the far west is the black, frowning bluff of Bull Point. To the east soars the majestic Helesborough, 500 feet high, with Rillage Point beyond, a sharp long spit of rock, black and bristling; whilst on the westward of the inclosed harbour-a natural basin-smooth as a mirror,

busy with its steamers, trawling-boats, and coasting craft, and echoing with the fall of the shipwright's hammer and adze, rises the chapel-crowned Lantern Hill.

The town contributed six ships, and 82 seamen to the siege of Calais. In Sept. 1644, Sir P. Doddington, with a party of horse, took possession of the town for the king. In 1685, Col. Wade and some other officers, who had escaped from Sedgemoor, seized a vessel, and put out to sea from the harbour, but were driven back by the appearance of a man-of-war. The harbour, a natural basin, is embayed on three sides by a semicircle of high lands, the chief being Helesborough. On the north side of Lantern Hill, a bold mass of rocks projects half across the entrance.

The pier, 850 feet long, first built in 1731, repaired by the Bourchiers, 1761, and enlarged in 1829 by Sir B. Wrey, defends the inner basin. The lighthouse on Lantern Hill, 100 feet above the sea, was formerly the chapel of St. Nicholas. The church of the Holy Trinity (T. M. Chanter, V.) is a mile from the harbour. It consists of a nave, chancel, and aisles, 115 ft. by 61 ft. It was built in the 12th century, but received great additions about the year 1400. The tower is in the centre of the north aisle. It contains a monument to Capt. R. Bowen, R.N., who fell in the attack upon Teneriffe, under the immortal Nelson, in 1797. The font is Norman: the pulpit is Jacobean. As in most Devonshire churches, there is no constructional chancel. The church of St. Philip and St. James (W. C. Warren, P.C.) was built by Hayward, in 1855. Camden held Ilfracombe as a lay prebend of the chapter of Sarum.

The Baths, built 1783, are at the entrance of the tunnels, cold and sepulchral, hewn under the Runnacleaves, and leading to the Crewkhorne Pools, near which De Tracy, one of Becket's murderers, hid himself. At Wildersmouth are found the kidney-vetch, birds'-foot lotus, bladder campion, samphire, scurvy-grass, thrift, and buckhorn plantain. The wheat-ear and rock-pipit frequent it. Near the tunnel may be discovered coryne ramosa, corynactis allmanni, crisia geniculata, c. leburnea, plumularia setacea, lao