CHAPTER XXXI. MEHADIA. HAT a barbarous scene Orsova presents on market-day, and what a jabber there is of many tongues as the people in their varied costumes scream at the top of their voices and chaffer and haggle over their bargainings; Serbs, Turks, and Wallachians all adding their unintelligible gibberish to that of the Magyar; and gesticulating so violently whilst uttering their sharp, shrill cries that the uninitiated stranger expects each moment to see them come to blows. Interesting as it is to the traveller from the civilised. west to see these people in their strange costumes, sitting by their strange wares, it is still more interesting to watch them hurrying into the market from the surrounding villages. Having been informed by our Moldavian host the previous evening, that this was the day on which the weekly market was held, we arose carly to see them arrive with their merchandise, but on walking down to the Danube we found both river and mountains so shrouded in dense white vapour, that the bold outlines of the latter were alone visible, whilst nearer objects were scarcely recognisable even a few yards ahead. The people, however, were flocking in, and, looming suddenly out of the semi-obscurity, appeared more like gigantic spectres than common men and women as they passed us in picturesque groups, some walking, others on horse, mule, or donkey-back, one and all clad in manycoloured garments. But besides these, from distant places on the Wallachian or Turkish banks farther down the stream, came now and then a small, crazy-looking craft, its plash heard long before it came in sight itself, laden with vegetables, fruit, fish, and sometimes a living freight of men, women, and children. Amongst the various kinds of fish found in the river are enormous sturgeon almost as large as sharks, which are cut up and sold in slices in the market. At ten o'clock we start for "Trajan's-Tafel," an excursion that will terminate our visit to Orsova. The mist, which by this time has risen above the river, still hangs amongst the lofty crags of the Kasan Pass. and adds an indescribable gloom to the narrow, but majestic defile. Just as we arrive at that portion of the Pass, where the tablet is situated, the mist ascending opens for an instant, and admits a shaft of sunlight, which, shining diagonally across the gorge, creates a beautiful effect of light and shade. The form of the tablet has already been described in a previous chapter, and the following is an exact copy of the inscription: IMP. CAESAR, DIVI, NERVAE. F. SUP AT E. the whole being perfectly legible when viewed closely, in spite of the coating of smoke which for ages has been accumulating upon it in consequence of the Servian fishermen availing themselves of the shelter afforded by the overhanging rock to cook their food. Just as when we passed it in the steamer, a fire was still smouldering there on the present occasion, some sacrilegious boatmen having as usual made the niche their place of bivouac. On entering Orsova, after our interesting morning's excursion, we heard voices shouting lustily, and looking behind us descried a small group of people hastening in our direction with much brandishing of sticks, and waving of hats, of which we were apparently the object. What could it all mean? Had our guide again been committing some indiscretion, and getting us into trouble? The mystery was speedily solved; for, on turning our backs upon our pursuers and hastening in the direction of the hotel, with the determination to ignore everything and everybody, the shouts were renewed with increased vigour, and some one overtaking us seized F. by the shoulder. This apparently formidable assault, however, was committed by no unfriendly hand, being none other than that of a Magyar, with whom, together with his three companions, we had travelled in the steamer from Pest. By this time all had reached us, and there was a general greeting. "How glad we are to meet the Angolok again! What joy," etc., etc.,-"Where have you been, since we parted on board the 'Szechenyi,' three days ago? Here? In Orsova? Is it possible, and so have we, and yet we have not met. How strange !-Well, you must come now we have found you, and dine with us at the König von Ungarn; we will take no denial," exclaimed they, all speaking at the same time. Pleased as we should have been to accept their hospitable invitation we were obliged to decline it; for yonder, shading his eyes with his hand to ascertain whether it is his "sweet master and mistress" who are coming, is András standing by a vehicle to which three horses are harnessed abreast; whilst by its side is another in which the luggage is placed in readiness for our journey, on which we should have started an hour ago. We must, therefore, partake of a hasty lunch and be off. We have only to bid adieu to our new acquaintances for the present, however, who are consoled on discovering that by a "happy coincidence," we are to be fellow-travellers to Temesvár, they leaving Orsova by the seven o'clock train that evening; and we joining it at Mehadia about twelve miles distant. Near it are the Hercules Baths, where we purpose spending the intervening hours, and it is a place which no one who comes to Orsova should fail to visit. At two o'clock we mount our chariot, and off we start as if borne on the wings of the wind, the vehicle containing András and the luggage following slowly behind. : The first portion of our drive is most exciting the pace at which the horses go, all of them keeping step; the fierce shouts of the Wallachian driver, who half stands up as he urges them into a gallop; the continual flourishes of his whip, which he invariably terminates with a loud crack that rends the air, the clatter of our bells, and the sight of the three horses abreast-wild-looking creatures, with neither collars nor blinkers-all impress us with the idea that we ourselves must be ancient Romans, driving in a triumphal car, until an instant's glance at the car in question dispels the illusion. It is not long, however, before the horses are permitted to assume the "regulation crawl." A hill has to be ascended, and then we reach the valley of the Czerna, enclosed on either side by wooded mountains, with their slopes cultivated with the vine. Snowing the summits, the wild cherry and pear are seen in full bloom, whilst plum-trees of immense size growing by the road-side, shower their petals on us as we pass. The driver, now seated calmly on the box, sings a peaceful melody to encourage his steeds and accompany the plaintive music of their bells. The gurgle of the Czerna, as it winds along, sounds cool and pleasant. On the hill-sides VOL. II. D |