garment of the man. But hold, the limits we have assigned ourselves will not admit a full discussion of this most voluminous subject; already the pile of MS. at our side admonishes us, (as the facetious imitator of Dr. Johnson has expressed it,) that "all things that have an end must be brought to a conclusion," and as we have something to say on other matters, we must dismiss the coat with a single remark. It is that subdued colors should always be preferred, and only the best tailor should be permitted to construct the garment. A few more suggestions will suffice on the Theory of the Toilet. And these we think may be best given by farther quotations from Dr. Holmes: "Wear seemly gloves; not black nor yet too light, Be shy of breastpins; plain, well-ironed white, In our remarks on the interesting subject before us, the attentive reader cannot have failed to notice that as yet we have said nothing of the gentler sex, without a large reference to whom any treatise on the toilet must of necessity be quite incomplete. We beg leave therefore to address ourselves to them for a brief space, and we trust to be received with the consideration due to a zealous apologist of their weaknesses and a devoted admirer of their charms. We place our hand upon our heart and proceed. woman seems to have been made fair for the very purpose of being the object of our expenditures, and as we set a gem of purest water in the costliest casket, it appears only proper that she should be the recipient of the finest wardrobes that our pockets can furnish. Paying the piper, however, generally gives one the privilege of directing the music, and it is clear that in the changes of their fashions, we may fairly claim to have our own tastes consulted. The right also attaches of speaking out freely with regard to the whole system. The great fault of womankind at the present day, we think is, that of overdressing. There is a toomuchness in their attire, which offends the critical eye. Now we might be justified in attacking this on economical grounds. But we scorn this advan tage. We object to it only as violating the rules of propriety. We do not like to see a lovely form concealed beneath a profusion of tawdry ornaments, or burdened with an infinity of fineries. This extravagance is bad enough any where, but it is not to be tolerated on the street. And yet it is almost universal. With the return of the autumnal glories of the shops, we shall expect to see large num bers of our charming friends, on their morning walks, so outrageously attired, that we may almost say of them, like the heroine of the Samson Agonistes, "But who is this, what thing of sea or land? That so bedeck'd, ornate, and gay, Of Tarsus, bound for the isles With all her bravery on, and tackle trim, Ladies, we beg of you, reform it altogether. There is another sad error of the sex, in array ing themselves with over-stiffness and precision. You will not deny, most respected and adorable We are far from designing to hint that a lady can of created beings, that your little heads are always ever bestow too much care upon her toilet. Infull of devices for decorating your little persons. deed, the female dandy usually exhibits less care Else why is it that so much assiduity is bestowed than any one else. But we have seen ladies dressupon your dresses,-why do you look with so much ed up in a manner, which indicated the most uninterest for the monthly visitation of that anony-comfortable feeling, as if they could not move withmous beauty of the fashion-plates, who flourishes out deranging the set of their garments. Such an in eternal youth and eternal pink ribbon? Why appearance is unbecoming and at present inexcusado you return from church on Sunday, so little ble. The great superiority of the female costume benefitted by the Rev. Dr. Blowemup's sermon of of the present day, over any that has preceded it, fifty-five minutes on the vanity of earthly distinc-is found in its ease and adaptation to the person. tions, that you can only talk of Miss "Timmin's No constraint is put upon the movements of the frightful visite," or "that horrid new bonnet of wearer. No alarming head-dress is superimposed Miss Frump?" Nay, start not! We impute this to make her resemble the caryatides of sculpture: not to you as a grievous fault. It is perhaps but a but the fullest comfort is afforded, at the same time prompting of your inward nature. That man, ugly that the natural beauties are set off to the best adas he is in his angular shape, without one of those vantage. Let woman recollect this, and be assucurves which we are taught to consider the ele- red that she never looks so well as when quite unments of beauty, should seek the aid of externals, conscious of her own attractions. Lord Bacon may not be defensible on general principles. But tells us that the greatest beauty she can boast, is Undoubt-1 that which a painting fails to express. "A sweet disorder in the dress. [A happy kind of carelessness ;] An erring lace, which here and there Do more bewitch me, than when art But the greatest impropriety of female apparel, which is not perhaps so much a fault in the wearers, as a defect in the mode itself,-is that it recognizes no difference of age. There are, in contemplation of fashion, no old women at all, for all are robed in the same colors and the same styles. Is it not a mockery to see those, whose shadows are lengthening in the evening of life, bedecked in the finery of sweet sixteen, to see nature giving place to art in their appearance, to see the roses which have left their cheeks paraded in their bonnets, and the tresses that are glossy no longer, replaced by the preparations of the perruquier? Can the foot of time be stayed by frippery and decoration? And yet do we not see every day ladies of uncertain ages exhibiting these painful contrasts, these absolute contradictions in external semblance? There is no greater error in the world than is committed by those who associate ugliness with age, and though the dictionaries may conjoin them, we maintain that not unfrequently good looks come with advancing years, we mean the good looks of a benignant and intellectual countenance. There is a great moral beauty in the appearance of one, whose garb denotes that she has yielded a willing submission to the fixed decrees of our being, who having seen the joyous delights of youth and passed the honorable period of mature age, is content to throw aside the ornaments which once she wore, and, instead of masquerading in laces and velvets, to be seen in the simple and unostentatious apparel that befits her years. To the eye of affection, the gray bairs upon her brow are far more becoming than any artificialities that could be procured, and the pallor of her cheek more attractive than the sunniest glow of early loveliness. It is when we look upon such a character as this, that we realize the truth of the touching lines of the poet, THE LADY ALICE:-A SONG. BY W. C. RICHARDSON, OF ALABAMA. I. Of all the lassies high or low, Is lovely lady Alice! Her rudest tone is zephyr's own, She warbles like a linnet, Her girdle, like Armida's zone, Hath a thousand sweets within it! II. Now you may call for a glass of wine, And wake its softest measure; III. Now you may call for a sunny sky, But give me the light of her blue eye, From Delhi to Gibraltar, IV. For oh! of lassies high or low, Is lovely lady Alice. Her rudest tone is zephyr's own, Hath a thousand sweets within it! THE THREE DAYS OF JULY. A very excellent and agreeable work has just been issued from the Boston press, under the title of the "Rise and Fall of Louis Philippe." The author, Benjamin Perley Poore, 'Esq., has long been favorably known to the public as the European correspondent of the Boston Atlas, and during several years' residence in Paris, spent in collecting from the public archives materials for the Massachusetts Historical Society, has had unusual facilities for becoming intimately acquainted with the people and the Government. We are indebted to him for sheets of his work, in advance of ita publication, from which we print the following graphic and feel in their full force the veneration and re- sketch of the Revolution of 1830, which placed Louis Egagard which old age ought always to inspire. lité upon the throne. The spirited portraitures of the "Les Amours sont toujours enfants VOL. XIV-71 [Ed. Mess. prominent characters of the period, with which the sketch t'aidera," (aid thyself, and Heaven will aid thee,) opens, are indeed drawn with a masterly hand. which numbered Garnier Pages, Odilon Barrot, Manuel Foy, and other popular orators, who exercised a great influence upon the people. They had, amidst the smoke of battle-fields and the exiBeranger mingled together liberty and the plea-gencies of war, lost sight of oratory as of most sures of the table-crushed the Grand Almoner other severe studies of poetic leisure, and now while he praised the charms of Lisette, and launch- dwelt with rapture on free voices speaking freely. ed his thunder against the Jesuits, while he sang Speech, like the sword, is a formidable weapon to the youthful graces of Jeanneton. Combining when wielded by those who have courage, and the talents of Anacreon and Tyrtæus, he wore a march boldly on to the assault. double crown-of thorny laurels and of thornless One solitary priest was among this formidable roses-and in proportion as his grisettes were of opposition, for Charles X. was too much of a devoeasy access, was his political aim difficult to di- tee not to enlist the church on his side. But this vine. All ages found something to admire in his exception, to use the words of Janin, was one who varied stanzas-the young girl as well as the old thought like Bossuet, and wrote like Jean Jacques soldier, the peasant as well as the revolutionist, Rousseau-one of those spirits which are naturaldrank eagerly from the cup of love and liberty ly rebellious because they are never duly appreciawhich he presented. His songs resounded from ted. A democrat after the manner of an old aposthe English channel to the Pyrenees, entering into tle, this organ between the gospel and the charall memories, and, by the force of noble and daring ter-this constitutional Luther-this energetic orathought, fixing upon all hearts a profound contempt tor, whose denunciation crushed all upon whom it for Charles X. fell-to sum up in one word, this Father de la Mennais was one of the most powerful opponents of Charles X. Calling to him all the griefs, all the humiliations, all the miseries, and all the opinions of disordered humanity, he filled their wasted and weary souls with popular vengeance. Having found it impossible to make himself comprehended as an expounder of his own creed, he applied that creed to politics in a democratic sense, and became the most powerful politician of the age. The Pope fulminated his thunder against him, and he sent the bolts back with doubled force against Charles X., Defender of the Holy Church. Guizot, Thiers, Mignet, Michelet, and a host of other writers, re-echoed the same sentiment in the University and the daily press, wielding against the imprudent monarch the mighty influence of letters, which in France predominates over all others. They attacked every thing that bore the name of legitimate royalty, and likened the reigning branch of the Bourbons to the English house of Stuart. Across the channel a monarch had been dethroned without politically convulsing society, and they boldly inquired if France could not do likewise? In olden times, when the great mass of the French had little honor to win, or property to lose, history had little influence, but now that a division of fortunes had placed almost every office within the reach of the bourgeoiserie, they looked to it as a practical lesson for examples. The historians became popular oracles with them, as they gained an influence over the Bonapartists and Republicans, by depicting their triumphs in gorgeous colors. As to the power of the newspaper press, so universally exercised in the present century, it is only necessary to say that its influence in France is quadruple what it is in the United States. Directed through such channels, the attacks of the "hommes de lettres" shook the very foundations of the throne, and the result fully realized the fine pas sage which Bulwer puts into the mouth of his sagacious hero, Cardinal Richelieu : 6611 the PEN is mightier than the sword. Many of these master-minds were members of a revolutionary society called "Aide-toi et le ciel There was yet another branch of this hydraheaded opposition-the women, who have ever exercised in France a greater influence, both in politics and literature, than they have in any other land since the days of Egyptian greatness. An English writer says, that, although excluded from the throne and sceptre by the Salic law, they have frequently ruled by a power stronger than all law; and amidst a people vain, frivolous, chivalric, gallant, and fond of pleasure, the women have taken up their place in life by the side of the men. More adroit in their conduct, quicker in their perceptions, than the less subtle sex, they have ruled absolutely in those times when adroitness of conduct and quickness of perception have been the qualities most essential to pre-eminence. And the heroism of Joan d'Are, the courage of Charlotte Corday, the barbarities committed by the fishwomen in the first revolution, show that they are not wanting when enterprise and daring are demanded. Who that has read French history forgets the powerful De Maintenon, the winning Pompadour, the intriguing De Longueville, the ingenious Scuderi, the epicurean Ninon, the agreeable Sévigné, the much loved De Lorme, the heroic Roland, the in telligent De Staël-in short, there is not a page but has to speak of some female reputation-nor is there a path to fame which female footsteps have not trod! Madame Adelaide of Orleans is well known to have played an active part in the (as yet undefined) efforts of her brother to seize the throne. It is certain that she prevailed upon Talleyrand to join the discontented faction, that she promised office and honors to the wives of prominent men in the case of her brother's success, and that her morganic husband, Baron Athalin, was the organ of communication between the clubs and the Palais Royal. With all these powerful auxiliaries, Louis Philippe felt conscious of success in the inevitable struggle. His plans were so well matured that he was able to stand aloof, and not only to deceive the King, but Lafayette and the Republicans. Instead of seizing the crown, he intended to accept it when offered to him by those whom he saw would not be disposed to submit to the despotic rule he projected. The publication of the ordinances lit the train which he had so carefully laid, and the subsequent explosion proved his ability in undermining the dynasty which had granted him so many favors, and which he had sworn to uphold. It was on Monday morning, the 26th of July 1830, that the "Moniteur," Charles X.'s official journal, published the obnoxious ordonnances, the effect of which was to entirely abrogate the charter. By eleven o'clock they were generally known, and groups were assembled from time to time in the Palais Royal, discussing their object and effect, but there were no signs of popular commotion; business went on as usual, and there was a full attendance in the evening at the theatres and dancing gardens. The editors of newspapers, who thus found their pens bridled, met in the morning at the elder Mr. Dupin's, to know if the law would not justify them in publishing without a license; but they found him awed, and unwilling to take any decisive measures. They determined nevertheless to hold a meeting, protest against the ordonnances, and issue their papers the next morning without obtaining licenses. At the Institute of France Mr. Arago delivered an eulogy on Fresnel, into which he introduced some spirited allusions to the glaring usurpation which had been attempted on the liberties of the country. prepared to resist it-the editors displayed a spirit worthy of their position as sentinels on the watchtower of freedom. Their protest was bold, representing the disobedience of the unlawful ordonnances as sacred, and asserting that "when a legal reign had ended, that of force commenced." By sunset, proof slips of the next morning's papers, containing this protest, were profusely distributed, and produced an electric effect upon the Parisians. 66 The liberal Deputies were called together in the evening, and urged to issue a similar protest, but they hesitated. The students of the Quartier Latin were making cartridges, for Count de la Borde had said that morning to a deputation which they had sent to the editor's meeting, urging a recourse to arms: Gentlemen, you are right-our country no longer claims from us empty words; unanimous action, vigorous and powerful, can alone save her liberties." And from the low wine shops around the Palais Royal there issued bands of men, carrying a bundle of the protests, who scattered themselves among the dancing-gardens in the suburbs, paying for liberal potations in which to drink the downfall of Charles X.-telling the workmen that they were all to be dismissed the next day and shouting "Vive le Charte." "Live the Charter," echoed from thousands of lips, they knew not exactly why, but with its overthrow the intriguing agents of Louis Philippe cunningly wove in, the occupation of Paris by the allies, the disgrace of the cherished tricolor, and the banishment of Napoleon. To possess a charter, according to Prince Polignac, who knew the Parisians well, is for the populace the full enjoyment of three things-work to do, cheap bread, and few taxes to pay." On Tuesday morning very few of the shops were open, and the garden of the Palais Royal was filled with the populace, listening to inflammatory harangues from the revolutionary agitators, who strove to impress upon their audiences that a charter was all that was necessary to alleviate their condition. By noon large bodies of the lower classes were parading the streets, uttering imprecations upon the obnoxious Ministers, and shouting" Vive le Charte." Unluckily for Charles X. he intrusted the command of Paris to Marmont, Duke of Ragusa, who had betrayed Napoleon, and permitted the allied army to enter Paris. With only 12,000 men under the orders of this detested commander, the government now resolved to enforce its edicts, and a Count de la Borde presided at a meeting of the Commissaire of Police supported by a company of editors held at the office of the "National" in the gend'armes was sent to seize the presses of the afternoon, when, after an animated discussion, the " Temps," one of the refractory journals. The publication of a protest, and a resistance to the house thus menaced was situated in the Rue Richordonnances, was decided upon. Believing that elieu, one of the most frequented thoroughfares of Charles X. would have a temporary triumph-for Paris, and the presses which it was intended to it was impossible to imagine that a government seize were in the buildings at the further end of a which deliberately invited insurrection was not large court. The approach of the commissaire being announced, Mr. Baude had the doors of the group of people, who refused to disperse when printing-house locked, and the gates opening on summoned by a magistrate, and a man was killed. the street thrown wide open. The workmen, the "To arms! live the charter!" shouted the mob; contributors, and all the persons employed on the barricades were thrown up, arms and ammunition paper in any capacity, drew up in two files; Mr. were distributed by unknown hands, and the hos Baude stationed himself in the space between tilities commenced, upon the issue of which dethem, bareheaded; and in that order all remained pended a sovereignty. The fifth regiment of inwaiting the event in deep silence. The passers fantry refused to fire upon the people, and several by were struck with curiosity and stopped; some of them bowed respectfully; the gend'armes were uneasy. other regiments faltered, while the insurgents displayed indomitable courage. Day was just declining, when a man appeared on the Quai de l'Ecole, carrying in his hand that tricolor flag which had not been seen for fifteen years. No cry was ut tered, no movement took place among the crowd and, as if immersed in their recollections, they continued gazing, long after it passed, on that standard, the unexpected sight of which evoked such glorious phantoms. Some aged men uncovered their heads, others shed tears; every face had turned pale. The commissaire arrived. Obliged to pass between the two files of men, who stood mute and impassive on either hand, he became agitated, turned pale, and going up to Mr. Baude, he politely drawn up along the river walls. Amazed, silent, stated to him the object of his mission. "It is by virtue of the ordonnances, Monsieur," said Mr. Baude, firmly," that you are come to demolish our presses. Well, then, it is in the name of the law that I call on you to forbear." The commissaire sent for a locksmith: he came, and the doors of the printing-house were about to be forced open. Lafayette had that morning read the ordonnances Mr. Baude stopped the man, and producing a copy at La Grange, and, taking post-horses, was at Paris of the Code, he read to him the article relating to in the evening to offer to the insurgents the use of the punishment of robbery accompanied with house- his name and person. He found that the liberal breaking. The locksmith uncovered his head to Deputies had been in session all day, but had done show his respect for the law; but being again or-nothing, though the rattling of musket volleys had dered by the commissaire to proceed, he seemed been heard throughout the afternoon, and some about to obey, when Mr. Baude said to him with young men, who had come to cheer Mr. Perier, ironical coolness, "Oh go on! it is only a matter were charged upon by a squad of hussars, and of the galleys." At the same time appealing from wounded by the sabres under the windows of the the commissaire to the Assize Courts, he drew out council-room. Louis Blanc, from whom, as an his pocket-book to enter the names of the wit-eye-witness of the scene, we quote largely, gives nesses present. The pocket-book passed from a vivid description of the aspect of Paris that night. hand to hand, and every one inscribed his name. All along the Boulevards, on the Place Louis XV., Every particular in this scene was striking and the Place Vendome, and that of the Bastille, were singular, Mr. Baude's stature, his sturdy counte- Swiss or lancers, or gend'armes, or cuirassiers of nance, his keen eyes overhung with thick bushy the guards, or foot soldiers; patrols crossing in evbrows, the law for which he demanded respect, ery direction; in the Rues de l'Echelle and des the stubborn determination of the spectators, the Pyramides attempts at barricades; and all around protection of the absent Judges invoked with the Palais Royal a swarm of men assembled from in a few paces of a detachment of gend'armerie, all quarters to batten on revolt; musket shots as the crowd that every moment grew denser out- yet few and desultory; at the foot of the columns side, and gave audible expression to its indigna- of the Exchange a guardhouse blazing, and shedtion. The terrified locksmith threw up the job, ding an ominous flood of light over the square; and was loudly cheered. Another was sent for; under the peristyle of the Theatre of Novelties lay he endeavored to execute the orders given him; a corpse, after having been carried about with cries but suddenly found that his tools were gone. It of "Vengeance!" darkness gathering thicker and was necessary to have recourse to the smith em- thicker over the city from the destruction of the ployed to rivet the irons on the convicts. These lamps; men running up and down the Rue Richeproceedings, which took up several hours, and were lieu bare-armed, with torches in their hands. witnessed by great numbers of persons, derived a On Wednesday, the 28th, all the disposable forreal historical importance from the circumstances. ces in the neighborhood of Paris were marched inBy affording the people an example of disobedience to the capital, and the strongest positions were o combined with attachment to the laws, two cra-cupied by artillery-on the other hand, the whole vings of its nature were gratified,-viz., the love population of Paris appeared to have risen as one of manifesting its independence, and the necessity man, every shop was shut, every artisan was in of feeling itself governed.* arms, carrying weapons of the most heterogeneous In the afternoon a body of troops fired upon a description, obtained partly from the Musée d'Artillerie, partly from the various armorers' shops, * Louis Blanc's History of Ten Years. |