each family knows its own. The cows belonging to the owners of our cage had their ears split right up the centre, so that they represented the curious appearance of cows with four ears, two held as erect as cows are wont to hold their ears, and two hanging loosely at each side. The Afshah women make their butter with very primitive churns; the milk is put into the dried skin of an animal, fastened up at the ends; this is hung on a tripod of reeds before the tent door, and the inflated skin bears a painful resemblance to the torso of the defunct animal. She then inserts a dasher, the handle of which is a reed with a cone-shaped piece of wood at the bottom, and with vigorous turnings of this, she produces the butter.

Some time before the hour at which their mothers were due from the pasture the excitement of our calves was intense; this reaches its height when the distant lowing of the returning herd is first heard. The calves are then muzzled with a rope and tied to the mother's leg until a sufficient supply of milk has been drawn. I was told that this is a little piece of deception practised on the cows which are refractory and will not stand still unless their calf is near, and all the while she imagines the calf is enjoying its evening meal, instead of being placed in the most tantalizing position possible.

by King Thoros, or Theodore, third of the Roupenian line of Armenian kings in the twelfth century.

Willebrand, Canon of Oldenburg, a German Crusader, visited Anazarba in 1211. He speaks of it as "a strong castle on a high mountain in the middle of the plain," and he also bears testimony to the miserable unhealthiness of the plain, which, since Alexander the Great caught a fever by bathing in the Cydnus at Tarsus, down to our own times has been fatal to many European travellers who have ventured on to it in the malarious season. When the summer heats come on, every one who can, goes up to the mountains, the nomads accompanying their flocks, and the wealthier inhabitants of the towns likewise have their summer abodes in Yaelas up in the mountains; only a few fever-stricken poor remain to drag on a weary existence until the autumn rains come on and free them from the scourge. A Knight Templar on his way to the Holy Land wrote thus of the Cilician plain to the pope : The land is in itself so sickly and bad, that if four thousand horsemen passed through it, however strong and well, it would be wonderful if at the end of the year five hundred would be found."

The ancient Roman town of Cæsarea penes Anazarbum lay at the foot of this precipitous rock, and was enclosed by a double wall with four gates and a ditch forming a large parallelogram, of which the mountain formed one side, and the space between is covered with ruins, amongst which our friends the Afshahs have built their huts. Under the immediate favor of the Roman emperors, Anazarba flourished until the days of Justin

Anazarba itself is a place of great interest from its ruined remains; the rock is about fifteen hundred feet at its high est point, with cliffs of sheer precipices eight hundred feet in depth in parts. This rock is two miles long, jagged and difficult of access. It is crowned with the ruins of the Armenian kings of Cilicia, who, with the help of the Crusadian, when a terrible earthquake overthrew ers, turned out the Saracens from their fortresses on the Cilician plain, and held them until the end of the Crusades and the consequent Ottoman conquest at the close of the fourteenth century. The view from the summit is highly picturesque over the far-stretching plain intersected by many streams and with its background of mighty mountains. Dotted over it are the encampments and villages of many tribes, and in the far, far distance is the silvery line of the Mediterranean. You ascend the rock by a staircase hewn in the days of the ancient Greek inhabitants. To the right and left of you are the stone sarcophagi and rock-hewn tombs of these ancient inhabitants, whilst in the centre of the fortress which crowns the summit is a tiny Armenian church, with an inscription around it which tells how it was erected

it; and though that emperor restored it in a great measure, it seems never to have regained its former pitch of prosperity. Three aqueducts brought water to it from the neighboring hills: one underground and two supported on arches, which still remain and stretch like huge dragons across the plain, recalling the colossal works of ancient Rome as seen now in the Campagna. There is no desolation so complete to my mind as that of ruined grandeur; and as we looked down from the rock of Anazarba on the vast sea of ruins, the sole tenants of which are now only some twenty families of a half-savage nomad tribe, we felt the desolation almost oppressive.

Outside the walls of Anazarba there is now a far-stretching marsh covered with acres of reeds, the building material for

two thousand horses. It was late that evening when we got back to our cage at Anazarba, and the dogs gave us an unusually warm reception.

The next day we bade farewell to our Afshahs at Anazarba and our cage, and rode across the plain eastwards in quest of the second object of our expedition. It was a brilliant day, and after the late rains the plain was luxuriant in its verdure and carpeted with flowers. At one point we passed through a perfect forest of blackthorn all in full blossom, and smelling deliciously. The effect of peeps through the black branches of these, laden with their white flowers, on to the distant snow capped peaks of the Anti-Taurus range was very curious, and forcibly recalled pictures of Japan.

they cover this coating with whitewash, and often paint it with fantastic patterns in red.

After crossing two rivers, both tributaries of the Pyramus, one called the Somban, which had a bridge, and the other the Savroon, which had none, and was exceedingly rapid and swollen, consequent on the melting of the snows, and caused us no little anxiety, we reached the straggling village of Kars Bazaar, the residence of a Turkish moudir or government representative in the district. Kars Bazaar is situated at the foot of the mountains, and derives its name from kar or snow, which is brought down here on mules in the summer and sold. Here we enjoyed ourselves immensely in a real house with real walls, our host being a Greek from the interior, who could understand nothing of his own language except the characters, and whose literature consisted of a few books and newspapers printed in Turkish in Greek character. His intelligence was, however, of an exceeding high class after the Afshahs, and he entertained us well.

After a rest of two days at Kars we set off again eastwards, skirting the mountains by the edge of the plain, seeing nothing of greater interest than an Afshah and his wife in the garb of nature, washing themselves and their clothes in a stream. Most of these good folks by the Pyramus possess but one suit of cotton clothes, and on certain rare occasions they wash them and themselves too, drying them on their backs, and feeling no manner of shame in appearing thus as nature made them.

Encampments of reeds like the one we had left were dotted all around, and always looked like a pile of hampers at a railway station as seen through a magnifying glass. Presently we got on to slightly higher ground, and the reed huts gave place to more substantial tenements of mud and sun-dried bricks. In one of these we found the female part of the population, busily employed in preparing a species of fuel called by them tezek. When the spring definitely sets in they clean out their Augean stables, a process they never attempt in the winter time. All the products of these filthy abodes they spread on a flat space before their houses; this they mix with a certain amount of straw and water, and with naked legs the women of the tribe, whose vocation it is to make the tezek, trot about in this delightful mixture We halted for our midday rest at another all day to get it to the right consistency; reed village of the Afshahs, called Bosithey seemed to be thoroughly enjoying kevi, where we inspected several houses themselves, now and again picking a piece and greatly admired the men, who wore up and studying it with a critical eye, as a blue loose jackets embroidered with gold, cook would study her broth; their clothes white cotton trousers tied over the ankle, were one mass of it, but this did not seem and carried narrow-handled guns over to trouble them much, for they laughed their shoulders, elegantly carved, and with and chatted gaily. When the tezek has several bands of chased silver adorning assumed a flat, clayey substance about six the barrel. The women, too, were much inches deep, the treading process is over, smarter than those of Anazarba, wearing and they leave it to dry in the sun; but little fezes bound round with handkerbefore it is quite hard they cut it into chiefs and round gold ornaments fixed blocks, and erect out of these blocks cir-into their hair at each ear; their false cular cone-shaped edifices, in which form it is left until fit to use; and storks are particularly fond of building their nests on these mounds. New tezek, when burnt, is an abomination, but really good oldseasoned tezek is not unlike peat. The Afshahs are very understanding in the matter of tezek, and use it not only for fuel, but as a sort of cement or coating for the inside of their reed huts. When dry,

plaits, too, were more profusely decorated with silver ornaments and triangular talismans to keep off the evil eye.

Furthermore, in each feminine nose is bored a hole, and in the aperture is inserted what at first we took to be a common nail. When, however, we had summoned up courage enough to examine this peculiarity more closely we found that they were cloves, stuck into the nose

on to a particularly clumsy axle. The inhabitants of Hemita are more agricultural than their neighbors, and some of them remain here all the year round; the consequence is that most of them look shrivelled up and yellow with fever, and gifts from our quinine bottle were highly appre"ciated. One wizened man with round yellow face and protruding cheek bones, when he took off his fez, looked the image of a Chinaman; for the men shave their hair off their crowns very closely, and let the part which hangs below the fez grow quite long.

with the object, I have not the slightest doubt, of maintaining near the region of the olfactory nerves a perpetual sweet smell, to counteract the numerous ones of a different nature that they have around them. In our commissariat department we happened to have some cloves, and presents of a few of these "ornaments" were most gratefully received. At Bosikevi each cage has its fine wooden amphora for fetching water from the well, standing at the door. These are made out of the hollow trunk of a tree and decorated with rude patterns. In the brilliant sunshine the women had placed before their houses, on colored carpets, piles of grain and rice, and they were busily employed in sorting these and preparing them for the grindstone by first removing the refuse. This occupation was decidedly more pleasing and feminine than that of tezek making, and we retained pleasant memories of our midday halt at Bosikevi. That evening we again reposed in a cage at the village of Hemita Kaleh, which is built principally of reeds on the banks of the Pyramus, just below a ruin-crowned spur of the mountains, which here come close down to the river bank. The Jeihan, or, as it is better known by its ancient name, the Pyramus, is a hideous yellow stream, which, when swollen with the melting snows, eats away in its course the muddy banks; its course, too, is often changing, they told us, and is a constant trouble to a ferry which crosses it a little below Hemita, and which has from time to time to seek fresh moorings, so that the traveller who is anxious to make use of it can never tell to a mile or two where he may find it.

The agricultural implements used by these farmers are very primitive; their plough is just a stem of a tree with the share fixed on at one end, and at the other a piece of wood is inserted to act as the tail; their spades are wooden and have the step about a foot above the shovel, like the old Roman spade called the Bipalium, we see in pictures. Their grain they store in round holes in the ground, covering it with straw and earth after a fashion common in the East in classical days, and called by the Greeks oípoi.

Close to Hemita, and living in a tent on the hillside, is an old man to whom we were conducted, as one of the chief curiosities of the place. He rejoiced in the name of "Hassan of the flocks," and aspires to the patriarchal age of one hundred and twenty-one. Every summer he goes up to the mountains in company with his children's children with their flocks, and every winter he returns with his family to seek for pasture by the banks of the Pyramus. He is undoubtedly of great age, and cannot now walk very far, but seeing that the Afshahs are long beThe ruined castle of Hemita is not un-hind that point of civilization at which like one of those mediæval edifices which adorn the Rhine, and was evidently in the days of the Armenian kingdom a place of considerable importance, commanding as it does the right bank of the river, and the road to the pass in the mountains. The women of Hemita were garbed like those of Bosikevi, and every one of them had a clove stuck in her nose; their occupation was making the killeems or coarse carpets used by the Afshahs, which are by no means ugly when not made with European dyes, and resplendent with scarlet, grass-green, and magenta. Here we were in the land of buffaloes, which wallowed in the shallows of the Pyramus, and of buffalo carts, which are used for agricultural purposes, long, triangular drays, with a buffalo yoked to either side of the apex, and with huge wooden wheels fixed

baptismal registers begin to be kept, I am sure his tale of longevity will meet with but little credence. Hassan and his family were just off for the mountains, and had only left their reed hut a few days before, and I must say the black goat's hair tents, with walls of reed matting to protect them on the windward side, look more inviting residences than the huts of Hemita.

Whilst engaged in studying the ruins of Boudroum, the final object of our expedition, we took up our abode in another reed encampment of the Afshahs called Meadow Village, delightfully situated about two hundred feet above the Pyramus, amongst fir-trees, with the stupendous mountains of the Taurus behind it. Our tenement here was decidedly more substantial than that at Anazarba. The reed cage was all coated inside with white

seeing that the Afshahs have the careless habit of calling all big game lions and tigers, including leopards, lynxes, and other less formidable beasts which abound in the mountains between Cilicia and the valley of the Euphrates, amongst which the Afshahs pass the summer months.

washed tezek gaily painted red with henna, which considerably diminished the number of draughts. A window, too, had been constructed in the wall; of course, only an unglazed aperture, which gave us an opportunity of looking at what was going on around, and the inhabitants, a very inquisitive race, had also the entire satisfac The day before we left Meadow Viltion of seeing what we were about. The lage, a great hubbub occurred; a gov ladies of Meadow Village were even ernment official passed this way whose smarter than those of Bosikevi; they occupation it is to number the flocks and darken their eyes and eyebrows with a collect the taxes on them. Somehow or stuff called kohl, consisting of a collyrium other, information was given him that cerof antimony, kept in a bottle and applied tain members of this tribe had concealed with a stick. Joined eyebrows are con- a portion of their flocks in caves in the sidered a beauty amongst them, and this mountains. He set out with two soldiers juncture is often effected by a line of kohl, to verify the facts, and on his return made for even nomad Afshah women are not the delinquents pay double. Naturally above the weaknesses of their sex. They there was a great deal of shouting and have really beautiful ornaments hung unpleasant language, and the affair at above their ears, and their feet are clad one time seemed to us to be assuming a in long, red-leather boots, for there are serious aspect; but to our contentment many snakes in the locality. Above these an understanding was arrived at, and the boots hang red baggy trousers, and above objectionable tax-collector took his departhis a blue skirt. One female, the wife of ture, considerably to our relief, for we did the aga, a chief of the tribe, went about not wish to be implicated in this wild disher daily avocations of milking and churn-trict in a case of insubordination. ing in a red satin jacket, her fez was bound round with lace, and a frontlet of sequins adorned her forehead; she was very handsome, too, quite my idea of what the wife of a nomad chieftain should be.

Our days in investigating the ruins of Boudroum passed pleasantly enough, and terminated with great satisfaction to ourselves. Not only did we find out that the city was anciently called Hieropolis Castabala, the last place that Alexander the Great stopped at before the battle of Issos, but also we found several inscriptions which placed for us the temple there, which Strabo mentions was dedicated to Artemis Perasia, the priestess of which used to walk over hot burning coals without getting burnt. The great feature of the place was a long colonnade about half a mile in length, many columns of which are still standing; it has a lofty acropolis in the centre of the town, built on a spur of the mountains, a large theatre, and other evidences of a large population and advanced civilization. Now these ruins are inhabited only by a few Afshahs, who pasture their flocks amongst them and possess some very objectionable dogs. Mahomed of the Broken Hand lives with his family in the theatre; another family have taken possession of what remains of the temple of Artemis, the head of which gets his distinguishing appellation from a wounded leg and arm, acquired in a contest with a lion, they told me; but I doubt the fact,

This was the last Afshah encampment we visited, and our work being terminated to our satisfaction, we bade adieu to our cage homes and hurried back to the comfort of four walls at Adana.

J. THEODORE BENT.

From The Cornhill Magazine.
THE BATTLE OF COPENHAGEN.
A DANISH ACCOUNT OF THE ACTION.

ON March 12, 1801, a great British fleet got under weigh in the roads of Yarmouth. It consisted of twenty ships of the line and a large number of frigates, brigs, and bomb vessels. Its destination being Copenhagen, its course was laid for the Cattegat in the Danish waters. The fleet was under the command of Admiral Sir Hyde Parker; the renowned Nelson, the hero of the Nile, being second in command. On board the fleet was a land force consisting of a line regiment, two companies of rifles, and a detachment of artinery, the whole under the command of Colonel Stewart; also a minister-plenipotentiary, Mr. Vansittard, whose mission it was to make a last attempt to induce Denmark to abandon the League of Armed Neutrality. He left the fleet at Skagen and proceeded in a fast sailing frigate direct to the Danish capital. But as the Danish government refused any negotiations while