FASHIONS

For SEPTEMBER, 1807.

EXPLANATION OF THE PRINTS OF FASHION.

for

part. Accordingly at Brighton, at Ramsgate, at bonnet, of wove and variegated willow; fringed Worthing, at Yarmouth, at Scarborough, we at the crown with light green or lilac. The find them holding their respective courts, and by short canonical cloak of muslin, or coloured combining their attractions, giving lustre and sarsnet, trimmed with thread lace. The Spanish animation to each gay and social scene. Now as scarf, and Chili girdle, together with simple scarfs at these places of summer resort, the splendid of coloured Italian crape, twisted fancifully round habit of the drawing-room is somewhat laid aside, the figure, and wern with small transparent it is the more requisite that the evening and bonnets of the same, are all articles which rank morning, the walking, or carriage costume, high amidst a fashionable selection. The Arcashould chiefly engage our present attention; dian hat of straw, or black chip, composes much at the summer evening assemblies, the petit simple and novel elegance. It is somewhat of déjeuné, or any rural fete, the attire to be con- the small gipsy form, with an oval, or melon sidered either elegant or consistent, should par- crown. The rim sits close on one side of the head, take more of a graceful, unobtrusive simplicity, so as to cover the ear; and on the other, exhibits than of that dazzling display which distinguishes a small French cap of lace, or a demi crown of the winter ball or drawing-room., It is in the similar materials with the hat; a half handkerunstudied, yet chaste and tasteful garb of a do- chief of black net, embroidered in coloured silks, mestic gentlewoman, in the neat, yet elegant || (chiefly shaded crimson, or jonquille), simply attire appropriated to the evening walk, where crosses the crown, and confines it under the taste and fashion unite in forming an interesting chin. Some ladies add a flower in front, others simplicity of style, that a beautiful woman will pass a small wreath across the forehead so as to engage the attention, and come nearest the blend tastefully with the hair; and each of these heart. We naturally glance from external grace, additions have a most animated and pleasing neatness, and propriety, to the purity of the effect, and renders this uncommonly elegant soul, and the order of the mind; and our admi- || ornament, sufficiently dressy for an evening party. ration insensibly changes to esteem and affection || Simple gipsy hats of straw and chip, are still preas we contemplate the existing analogy. We valent; and a bonnet somewhat of the Minerva have in our former communications, occasionally form, is lately introduced on the evening parades. insisted on the necessary attention of females to It is formed of a rich fancy sarsnet, shaded in this particular style of decoration; and at a period the form of small clouds; ornamented with when from its appropriate qualities, the adoption Angola feathers on the crown, of correspondent will consequently be more general, it will not be hues; and finished at the edge with the French amiss to dwell more at large on its nature and ad- binding. Many ladies appear on the public vantages. We will begin with the walking, or walks in simple caps of satin, or lace, lined with carriage costume, which we consider never to coloured sarsnet, and ornamented with wreaths, have combined more variety and elegance than or small bunches of flowers. Over the cap, or at the present season. The robe pelisse of plain suspended from the edge, is seen a short veil of or embroidered muslin, let in down the seams, French lace. Indeed we remark, that no female and entirely round, with double rows of beading of fashionable pretensions appears in a cap or in embroidery, is exceedingly esteemed, both small hat, without this chaste and becoming apas a morning robe, or sea-side wrap. The Bruns- pendage. The veil is so graceful and interestwick mob and vest, the simple jacket and petti ing an ornament, that which ever way disposed coat, made high in the neck, with Spanish it must ever produce a distinguishing effect. We capes and Catalani sleeves, trimmed with Van- take upon us however to recommend some attendyke lace, are all articles of fashionable celebrity. tion to the size and disposition of this generally But the Bannian, or Chinese coat, as a carriage becoming ornament; in which particular it habit, ranks high in novelty and elegance. It is should at all times be adapted to the style of formed as a large open pelisse, but short, not feature and stature of the several wearers; a short reaching below the bend of the knee; and is woman obscures the possible symmetry of her composed of a soft Chinese silk, a salmon colour, figure by a long or wide veil, while a female of a over which runs in a very small pattern, the tea commanding height, graceful carriage, and imleaf and berry. It is simply confined at the throat posing air, receives from the long veil consider. with a brooch, or chord and tassel of lilac silk; able advantage. The style of gowns and robes and a similar one is suspended from the bottom differ not very materially from our last commuof the waist behind, meant occasionally to con- nication. The plain high front, sitting close to fine the coat. Round the bottom is placed a the form, with narrow shoulder-strap and low deep lilac silk fringe, of uncommon richness, back; the plain Vandyke tucker, or French and beautifully shaded. This very unique and lappelled handkerchief trimmed with Vandyke elegant article is usually worn with a small jockey lace; the small puckered front and sleeves to

who, being very handsome, very insinuating, and very poor, gladly followed the example of his countrymen, in compounding with a rich city heiress, by giving himself and a title in exchange for the lady's fortune and estates. The father of Lady M'Laurence was a respectable merchant, whose name for more than fifty years had re

he was the intimate friend of my uncle, and his daughter consequently one of cousin Mary's oldest friends. This relation will account to you for our present destination.

dresses of coloured crape; the lozenge front and sleeve, formed of alternate stripes of French net and satin ribband; white tiffany short dress, over a coloured sarsnet under-dress; plain cambric morning dresses, with the bodies richly worked in a close pattern of open-hems and em. broidery, with the Catalani, or corkscrew sleeve, are all articles at once distinguishing and fashion-sounded within the precincts of Change-Alley; able. Several females of rank and taste wear the hair cropt close behind, and formed in curls on the crown of the head. In full dress, however, a variety of style prevails; sometimes we see the hind hair formed into ringlets twisted in a cable chord at the back of the head, and flowing full on the left side, while a band consisting of three braids rests flat on the other; sometimes the simple Madona front is observed; and sometimes entire hands of braided hair, interspersed with steel beads across the forehead, and are twisted in bows at the back of the head. Ridicules of painted velvet, of various constructions, and beautifully designed, are now much used by our belles of fashion. The coloured parasol is becoming very general. Trinkets exhibit little variety. The composition brooch, formed to represent natural flowers; the beaded necklace of polished rose-wood, capped and linked with gold; together with earrings and brooches representing the flower called the Pheasant's-eye, may be ranked amidst the most elegant and novel ornaments in this line. Black and white satin slippers, together with white and coloured kid, trimmed to correspond with the dresses to which they are attached, are generally selected. White kid, York tan, and Limerick gloves, are considered far more genteel than those of kid the colour of the bonnets, which were of late partially introduced, The prevailing colours for the season are pea-green, jonquille, pale-lilac, blossom, pink, and primrose.

LETTER ON DRESS.

FROM ELIZA TO JULIA, EXPLANATORY AND
DESCRIPTIVE.

Rosewood Villa, Richmond. WELL, dear Julia, after having run our round of pleasure with the great and the gay, sporting with the dashers at Brighton races, joining with the fashionable throng at Worthing, admiring the fresh-imported Cits at Margate, and sighing over the military heroes embarking at Ramsgate, here I am,-quietly scated beneath a branching willow, whose boughs, reclining in Juxuriant loveliness, embrace the quietly flowing Thames. The Villa of which we are at present the inmates, is the residence of Sir James M'Laurence, a cheerful generous Hibernian;

Lady M'Laurence presumes much on her wealth, is somewhat vulgar, and ill-informed; she possesses a person and manners at once coarse and unengaging; and Sir James, who appears to possess a lively sensibility for female beauty and elegance, seems occasionally to observe these unattractive qualities in his partner, spite of that fortune which permits him to pursue other pleasures than those arising from a reciprocal interchange of affection and tenderness. My dear Julia, I have lately seen too much of those comforts and advantages which a good fortune procures, to form any high-flown notion of " Love in a Cottage;" on the contrary, from a more extensive observation of men and manners, I am more inclined to echo the adage of our old nurse, who used to tell us, that "When Poverty comes in at the door, Love flies out at the window." And yet, dear friend, one would wish that fortune should be but a secondary consideration in the choice of a partner for life.

But as this style is rather foreign to the des tined purport of my letter, I will dismiss it for the present, and proceed to simple detail. I inclose in this packet, dear Julia, a long list of fashionable descriptions, collected from the seve ral places where we have lately sojourned, and shall confine myself to a few choice delineations of such costumes as have since attracted my attention. Mary accompanied the three Lady B- -'s to the fete at Oatlands, last week; and was highly charmed with the cordiality, fascination, and benevolent manners of the Royal Hostess. Nothing could exceed the taste, animation, and hospitality of the charming scene. The dresses of the Ladies B was so singular in their construction and design, that they will be found worthy of delineation, were it only on the score of novelty; they were styled the Carmelite, or Convent vest, and were formed of a gossamer satin, the colour a nun's brown. They were cut low in the back and bosom, with a plain long sleeve of white crape; a French tippet of the same, cut in Vandykes, and entirely without trimming, met the edge of the vest round the bosom, and sat close to the form; round the throat it was finished with a row of Convent

formed entirely of footing lace, and beadings of

beads, and a cross was suspended from the centre, of Jerusalem wood. A deep black velvet cestus, || embroidery, extended over a lining of white pointed before and behind, confined the bottom of the waist, which was much longer than are usually seen, and each point reached to the edge of the tippet. The hair was worn in bands and braids on one side of the head, and a few loose curls fell on the other. On the crown of the head, and placed towards one side, was a flat and fanciful disposed turban of crimson muslin, thickly interwoven with small gold spots, and worn somewhat in the Chinese style. The three sisters are nearly of the same height, of a middle stature, and neatly rather than elegantly formed. Their complexions were a clear brown, and their features expressive without being handsome; but the trio thus singularly adorned naturally excited universal attention.

Mary wore a short dress of black net lace, over a white satin under-dress, the bottom and drapery ornamented with borders of the pheasant's-eye and myrtle tastefully blended. Her hair was braided in bands, and twisted fancifully with Chinese pearl; bracelets and armlets of the same, with the barrel snap of diamonds. Her shoes were white satin, trimmed with silver; and she wore a bouquet of the Cape-heath and jessamine.

We have just received dresses from town appropriated for that intermediate style which at this season is more generally adopted; for, except on very particular occasions, it is thought prodigiously vulgar to dress much in the country; I do not mean to infer, that less attention is required in this order of personal decoration; for a correct taste is more immediately discernable in this than in any other style of costume. The most striking article in this line is a frock dress of plain India muslin, with separate waists, let in entirely round, with treble rows of beading. The morning waist is made of embroidered muslin, similar to that which composes the dress, and buttons up the back; it sits high in the neck, and close to the form, and is finished with pointed capes round the throat, trimmed with narrow Vandyke lace. The long sleeve à la Catalani,|| is of plain muslin, similar to that which composes the dress. The other waist which transforms this elegant garb into the evening dress, is

sarsnet; the sleeve, short and full, is formed on the cross, finished at the edge with a row of beading, and confined in the centre of the arm and bosom with the hearts-ease brooch.-I have never seen any dress which blends at once more convenience, neatness, and elegance. For more minute particulars I refer you, dear Julia, to the list of general remarks which accompanies this; and shall hasten now to conclude my epistle by a farther attention to your wishes, in recommend|| ing to your perusal the following new works. I know, that in spite of all opposition, you continue your predilection for the epistolary style; read therefore a novel in letters, entitled-Love as it may be, and Friendship as it ought to be, by Mrs. Bayfield; I know you will need no other inducement than the decision passed on it by the late elegant authoress, and inestimable woman, Mrs. Cooper. The Hungarian Brothers, and The Aphorisms of Sir Phillip Sidney, from the pens of the amiable sisters, the Miss Porters, I am sure you will read with avidity. The Benevolent Monk shall arrive with the next packet; we are too deeply engaged in it to part with it at present. Adieu! dear, and ever dear Julia, conclude me always your attached and affectionate

ELIZA.

TO CORRESPONDENTS.

THE conclusion of the Essay on Politeness, together with the termination of the Biography of the Queen of Naples, (which had been mislaid) will be given in our next.

The Farmer's Letters will be returned.

Our Correspondent in Clipstone-street we shall be glad to hear from.

Our valuable Correspondent at Camden Town, to whom we were indebted for the account of a Concert of Music given to two Elephants, is requested to purge his MS. of all future indelicacies. To raise a blush on female cheeks is not becoming a writer of his distinguished talents.

London: Printed by and for J. BELL, Southampton-Street, Strand.