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For SEPTEMBER, 1807.
EXPLANATION OF THE PRINTS OF FASHION,
OF THE MOST SELECT
No. 4.- EVENING Dress.
A round train gown of white sarsnet, with A round train dress of India muslin, embroi.
square back, wrap front, and short full sleeve; dered in a fancy burder of needle-work at the feet.
ornamented round the bortom, bosom and sleeves
with a rich chenille ribband of shaded green. A The stock bosom, ornamented with white beads.
short sash tied behind with shaded chenille ends. A full Spanish short sleeve, over a plain one of
The Parisian head-dress, composed of the hair white satin. A scolloped lace tucker, placed strait round the bosom. Circassian scarf of gold, | formed in braids and curls
, blended with bands of chambrey, or lace, crossing the back, and gather- || green and gold foil. The pear earrings of gold
and pearl. An imperial necklace of linked gold; ed in front of the left shoulder into an emerald brooch, reaching to the feet, finished with a gold elastic bracelets of the same, with emerald studs.
Shoes white satin; gloves French kid; and fan tassel, and occasionally formed into drapery by
of white crape, painted in a border of the yellow the attitude of the right hand. The hair taste.
jessamine. fully disposed in bands and curls; and a small ostrich feather crossing the crown towards the right side, is fastened to the hair with an emerald
A REGULAR AND EXTENSIVE DELI. stud. Earrings, necklace, and bracelets of pearl,
NEATION with emerald clasps. White kid gloves and shoes.
FASHIONS FOR THE SEASON; No. 2.-EVENING WALKING Dress. A plain round gown of jaconet muslin, a Transmitted from the several Places of walking length, simply ornamented with rows
clegant resort. of open-hems round the bottom. A plain square
ALTHOUGH the Aight of our fashionable bosom sitting close to the forin, laced up the
fair leaves us little to communicate inimediately front, and trimmed at the edge with twisted muslin. A large straw hat of the Gipsy form, | from the metropolis, on the score of fashionable tied across the crown with a silk handkerchief. || intelligence, yet as we pursue the changeful Deep Vandyke stock, of lace or needle-work. | goddess with determined perseverance, in her
various haunts, we hope to collect for her fair A black lace or Chinese shawl, thrown in irre
votaries a selection of delineations equally copious gular negligence over the shoulders. Straw.
with those advantages which our extensive limits coloured kid gloves and shoes. White sarsnet
of observation afford. It is true, that our brilliant parasol, deeply fringed, and painted in historical
parties, and public assemblies are for a while devices.
suspended; that our streets no longer resound No. 3.-A WALKING Dress.
with the rolling of splendid equipages, or attract A plain round robe of the finest French cam- by the mumber- and elegance of their fair pebric. A Capuchin cloak of muslin or coloured destrians : both animate and inanimate nature sarsnet, edged in Vandyke, sitting close round however need their allotted portion of rest; and the throat, with a falling collar, and confined in the present period may not, therefore, improthe centre with a ribband or brooch. A Village perly be termed the repose of the metropolis. hat, of straw or chip, with silk crown, and rib- || But genius, taste, and pleasure are always active, band to correspond with the cloak. Shoes of they disdain the dormant faculties of languor and brown kid; gloves York tan; and parasol of | supineness; and merely shift the scene, in which clouded sarsnet.
they are ever destined to perform the principal Ny, XXI. Vol. III.
part. Accordingly at Brighton, at Ramsgate, at bonnet, of wove and variegated willow; fringed Worthing, at Yarmouth, at Scarborough, we at the crown with light green or lilac. The find then hulding their respective courts, and by short canonical cloak of muslin, or coloured combining their attractions, giving lustre and sarsnet, trimmed with thread lace. The Spanish animation to each gay and social scene. Now as scarf, and Chili girdle, together with simple scarfs at these places of summer resort, the splendid of coloured Italian crape, twisted fancifully round habit of the drawing-room is somewhat laid aside, the figure, and worn with small transparent it is the more requisite that the evening and bonnets of the same, are all articles which rank morning, the walking, or carriage costume, high amidst a fashionable selection. The Arcashould chiefly engage our present attention ; for dian hat of straw, or black chip, composes much at the summer evening assemblies, the petit simple and novel elegance. It is somewhat of déjeuné, or any rural fete, the attire to be con. the small gipsy form, with an oval, or melon sidered either elegant or consistent, should par- crown. The rim sits close on one side of the head, take more of a graceful, unobtrusive simplicity, so as to cover the ear; and on the other, exhibits than of that dazzling display which distinguishes a sinall French cap of lace, or a demi crown of the winter ball or drawing-room. It is in the similar materials with the hat; a half handkerunstudied, yet chaste and tastefal garb of a do- chief of black net, embroidered in coloured silks, mestic gentlewoman, in the neat, yet elegant (chiefly shaded crimson, or jonquille), simply attire appropriated to the evening walk, where crosses the crown, and confines it under the taste and fashion unite in forming an interesting chin. Some ladies add a flower in front, others simplicity of style, that a beautiful woman will pass a small wreath across the forehead so as to engage the attention, and come nearest the || blend tastefully with the hair ; and each of these heart. We naturally glance from external grace, | additions have a most animated and pleasing neatness, and propriety, to the purity of the effect, and renders this uncommonly elegant soul, and the order of the mind; and our admi- | ornament, sufficiently dressy for an evening party. ration insensibly changes to esteem and affection Simple gipsy hats of straw and chip, are still preas we contemplate the existing analogy. We valent; and a bonnet somewhat of the Minerva have in our former communications, occasionally form, is lately introduced on the evening parades. insisted on the necessary attention of females to || It is formed of a rich fancy sarsnet, shaded in this particular style of decoration; and at a period the form of small clouds; ornamented with when from its appropriate qualities, the adoption Angola feathers on the crown, of correspondent will consequently be more general, it will not be hues; and finished at the edge with the French amiss to dwell more at large on its nature and ad- | binding. Many ladies appear on the public vantages. We will begin with the walking, or walks in simple caps of satin, or lace, lined with carriage costuine, which we consider never to coloured sarsnet, and ornamented with wreaths, have combined more variety and elegance than
or small bunches of flowers. Over the cap, or at the present season. The robe pelisse of plain suspended from the edge, is seen a short veil of or embroidered muslin, let in down the seams, French lace. Indeed we remark, that no female and entirely round, with double rows of beading of fashionable pretensions appears in a cap or in embroiderý, is exceedingly esteemed, both small hat, without this chaste and becoming apas a morning robe, or sea-side wrap. The Bruns- | pendage. The veil is so graceful and interestwick mob anıl vest, the simple jacket and petti | ing an ornament, that which ever way disposed coat, made high in the neck, with Spanish it must ever produce a distinguishing effect. We capes and Catalani sleeves, trimmed with Van- take upon us however to recommend some attendyke lace, are all articles of fashionable celebrity. tion to the size and disposition of this generally But the Bannian, or Chinese coat, as a carriage becoming ornament; in which particular it habit, ranks high in novelty and elegance. It is should at all times be adapted to the style of formed as a large open pelisse, but short, not feature and stature of the several wearers; a short reaching below the bend of the knee; and is woman obscures the possible symmetry of her composed of a soft Chinese silk, a salmon colour, figure by a long or wide veil, while a female of a over which runs in a very small pattern, the tea commanding height, graceful carriage, and imJeaf and berry. It is simply confined at the throat posing air, receives from the long veil consider. with a brooch, or chord and tassel of lilac silk; able advantage. The style of gowns and robes and a similar one is suspended from the bottom differ not very materially from our last commu. of the waist behind, meant occasionally to con- nication. The plain high front, sitting close to fine the coat. Round the bottom is placed a the form, with narrow shoulder-strap and low deep lilac silk fringe, of uncommon richness, back; the plain Vandyke cucker, or French and beautifully shaded. This very unique and lappelled handkerchief trimmed with Vandyke elegant article is usually worn with a small jockey lace; the small puckered front and sleeves to dresses of coloured crape; the lozenge front and who, being very handsome, very insinuating, and sleeve, formed of alternate stripes of French net very poor, gladly followed the example of his and satin ribband; white tiffany short dress, countrymen, in compounding with a rich city over a coloured sarsnet under-dress; plain cam- heiress, by giving himself and a title in exchange bric morning dresses, with the bodies richly for the lady's fortune and estates. The father worked in a close pattern of open-hems and em. of Lady M'Laurence was a respectable merchant, broidery, with the Catalani, or corkscrew sleeve, whose name for more than fifty years had reare all articles at once distinguishing and fashion- sounded within the precincts of Change-Alley ; able. Several females of rank and taste wear the he was the intimate friend of my uncle, and his hair cropt close behind, and formed in curls on daughter consequently one of cousin Mary's the crown of the head. In full dress, however, | oldest friends. This relation will account to you a variety of style prevails; sometimes we see the || for our present destination. hind hair formed into ringlets twisted in a cable Lady M'Laurence presumes much on her chord at the back of the head, and flowing full wealth, is somewhat vulgar, and ill-informed; on the left side, while a band consisting of three | she possesses a person and manners at once coarse braids rests fat on the other; sometimes the and unengaging; and Sir James, who appears simple Madona front is observed ; and sometimes to possess a lively sensibility for female beauty entire hands of braided hair, interspersed with and elegance, seems occasionally to observe these steel beads across the forehead, and are twisted unattractive qualities in his partner, spite of that in bows at the back of the head. Ridicules of | fortune which permits him to pursue other pleapainted velvet, of various constructions, and sures than those arising from a reciprocal interbeautifully designed, are now much used by our change of affection and tenderness. My dear belles of fashion. The coloured parasol is be- || Julia, I have lately seen too much of those comcoming very general. Trinkets exhibit little || forts and advantages which a good fortune provariety. The composition brooch, formed to cures, to form any high-flown notion of—“ Love represent natural flowers; the beaded necklace in a Cottage;" on the contrary, from a more of polished rose-wood, capped and linked with extensive observation of men and manners, I am gold; together with earrings and brooches repre- more inclined to echo the adage of our old nurse, senting the Aower called the Pheasant's-eye, who used to tell us, that “When Poverty comes may be ranked amidst the most elegant and in at the door, Love flies out at the window.'' novel ornaments in this line. Black and white | And yet, dear friend, one would wish that forsatin slippers, together with white and coloured
tune should be but a secondary consideration in kid, trimmed to correspond with the dresses to
the choice of a partner for life. which they are attached, are generally selected. But as this style is rather foreign to the des. White kid, York tan, and Linierick gloves, are tined purport of my letter, I will dismiss it for considered far more genteel than those of kid the the present, and proceed to simple detail. I incolour of the bonnets, which were of late par. || close in this packet, dear Julia, a long list of tially introduced. The prevailing colours for fashionable descriptions, collected from the seve. the season are pea-green, jonquille, pale-lilac, || ral places where we have lately sojourned, and blossom, pink, and primrose.
shall confine myself to a few choice delineations of such costumes as have since attracted my at
tention. Mary accompanied the three Lady LETTER ON DRESS.
B's to the fete at Oatlands, last week;
and was highly charmed with the cordiality, FROM ELIZA TO JULIA, EXPLANATORY AND
fascination, and benevolent manners of the Royal
Hostess. Nothing could exceed the taste, aniRosewood Villa, Richmond.
mation, and hospitality of the charming scene. Well, dear Julia, after having run our The dresses of the Ladies B- - was so singular round of pleasure with the great and the gay, in their construction and design, that they will sporting with the dashers at Brighton races, join- || be found worthy of delineation, were it only on ing with the fashionable throng at Worthing, the score of novelty; they were styled the Car. admiring the fresh-imported Cits at Margate, and || melite, or Convent vest, and were formed of a sighing over the military heroes embarking at
gossamer satin, the colour a nun's brown. They Ramsgate, here I am,-quietly scated beneath a were cut low in the back and bosom, with a branching willow, whose boughs, reclining in plain long sleeve of white crape; a French tippet Juxuriant loveliness, embrace the quietly flowing of the same, cut in Vandykes, and entirely withThames. The Villa of which we are at present out trimming, met the edge of the vest round the inmates, is the residence of Sir James the bosom, and sat close to the form; round the M'Laurence, a cheerful generous Hibernian ; | throat it was finished with a row of Convent
beads, and a cross was suspended from the centre, formed entirely of footing lace, and beadings of of Jerusalem wood. A deep black velvet ceslus, l embroidery, extended over a lining of white pointed before and behind, confined the bottom sarsnet; the sleeve, short and full, is formed on of the waist, which was much longer than are the cross, finished at the edge with a row of usually seen, and each point reached to the edge beading, and confined in the centre of the arm of the tippet. The hair was worn in bands and and bosom with the hearts-ease brooch.--I have braids on one side of the head, and a few loose never seen any dress which blends at once more curls fell on the other. On the crown of the convenience, neatness, and elegance. For more head, and placed towards one side, was a flat and | minute particulars I refer you, dear Julia, to the fanciful disposed turban of criinson muslin, | list of general remarks which accompanies this; thickly interwoven with small gold spots, and || and shall hasten now to conclude my epistle by a worn somewhat in the Chinese style. The three | farther attention to your wishes, in recommendsisters are nearly of the same height, of a middle | ing to your perusal :he following new works. I stature, and neatly rather than elegantly formed. || know, that in spite of all opposition, you continue Their complexions were a clear brown, and their your predilection for the epistolary style; read features expressive without being handsome; l therefore a novel in letters, entitled — Love as it but the trio thus singularly adorned naturally ex- may be, and Friendship as it ought to be, by Mrs. cited universal attention.
Bayfield; I know you will need no other induceMary wore a short dress of black net lace, over ment than the decision passed on it by the late a white satin under-dress, the bottom and drapery | elegant authoress, and inestimable woman, Mrs. ornamented with borders of the pheasant's-eye | Cooper. The Hungarian Brothers, and The 29d inyrtle tastefully blended. Her hair was Aphorisms of Sir Phillip Sidney, from the pens of braided in bands, and twisted fancifully with the amiable sisters, the Miss Porters, I am sure Chinese pearl ; bracelets and armlets of the same, you will read with avidity. The Benevolent with the barrel snap of diamonds. Her shoes Monk shall arrive with the next packet; we are were white satin, trimmed with silver; and she too deeply engaged in it to part with it at present. wore a bouquet of the Cape-heath and jessa. Adieu! dear, and ever dear Julia, conclude me mine.
always your attached and affectionate We have just received dresses from town ap
ELIZA. propriated for that intermediate style which at this season is more generally adopted; for, except on very particular occasions, it is thought prodigiously vulgar to dress much in the country; I do not mean to infer, that less attention is re
TO CORRESPONDENTS. quired in this order of personal wecoration ; for a correct taste is more immediately discernable in THE conclusion of the Essay on Politeness, this than in any other style of costume. The together with the termination of the Biography of must striking article in this line is a frock dress
the Queen of Naples, (which had been mislaid) of plain India muslin, with separate waists, let in will be given in our next. entirely round, with treble rows of beading. The
The Farmer's Letters will be returned. niorning waist is made of embroidered muslin, similar to that which composes the dress, and
Our Correspondent in Clipstone-street we shall buttons up the back; it sits high in the neck,
be glad to hear from. and close to the form, and is finished with pointed Our valuable Correspondent at Camden Toun, capes round the throat, trimmed with narrow to whom we were indebted for the account of Vandyke lace. The long sleeve a la Catalani; || Concert of Music given to two Elephants, is reis of plain muslin, similar to that which com- quested to purge his MS. of all future indelicacies. poses the dress. The other waist which trans- To raise a blush on female cheeks is not hecoming forms this elegant garb into the evening dress, is a writer of his distinguished talents.
Lundum: Printed by and for J. BELL, Southampton-Street, Strand.
COURT AND FASHIONABLE
FOR SEPTEMBER, 1807.
1. An elegant Portrait of Her MAJESTY THE QUEEN OF PORTUGAL. 2. THREE WHOLE-LENGTH Figures of Ladies in the London Fashions for the Month. 3. An ORIGINAL SONG, set to Music for the Harp and Piano-Forte, expressly and exclusively
for this Work, by W. P. Core. 4. A new and elegant PATTERN for Needle-WORK.
BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES OF ILLUS- | A Tour in Zealand, in 1802, by a Native of
Her Majesty the Queen of Portugal
FAMILIAR LECTURES ON USEFUL Her Majesty the Queen of Naples.... 120 Madame Tallien
Question by the Imperial Academy of
Sciences at St. Petersburgh...
159 A Dream on the Occupation of departed Souls......
161 An account of the City of Vienna, and the Manners of its Inhabitants....
132 Sir Edward Seymour; an English Tale .... 135
PUBLIC AMUSEMENTS. Additions to the Natural History of certain Maids to be Married; by M. Picard ...... 165 Animals .....
140 Opening of Drury-Lane and Covent-Garden Select Anecdotes and Sayings of M. De
168 Chamfort and others A Statistical Survey of Prussia in September, 1806
LA BELLE ASSEMBLEE.
ib. The way to become a Marshal; a true Story 148 | General Observations on the most prevalent A Description of Poland, with respect to
Fashions for the Season
ib, the Persons, Manners, Dress, &c. of the Letter on Dress......
152 || Supplementary Advertisements for the Month.
Londen: Printed by anl for J. Bell, Proprietor of the Weekly MESSENGER, Southenpton-Street,
Strand, October 1, 1807.