A round gown of French cambric, a walking A round train gown of clear muslin, or leno, length, ornamented at the feet with muslin in over white satin, tamboured in a snail pattern, No. 2.-A MORNING, OR WALKING DRESS. A plain round gown of French cambric, a walking length, scolloped at the feet; a plain square bosom, embroidered at the edge. A French coat of purple velvet, with long Spanish sleeve, finished all round with a border composed of shaded chenille. A Yeoman hat of the same material, turned up in front in a triangular form, finished at the extreme edge with a border the same as the coat, and ornamented on the crown with a raised button and rich cord and tassel; a girdle of purple ribband terminated with the same. Purple velvet, or kid shoes, and York tan gloves. With this dress is usually worn an embroidered shirt, with Vandyke ruff, or a chemisette of twill cambric, or small quilted satin, trimmed a-lamilitaire. No. XXII. Vol. III. reversed puckers; a short full sleeve, with long York tan gloves above the elbow, reaching towards the edge of the sleeve (but the long plaited sleeve is considered as more appropriate to this style of costume). A Helmet hat of basket willow, ornamented with amber-coloured ribband, front. A long Angola shawl, a deep orange coand a small sun-flower, or demi sturtion wreath in lour, with shaded fringe and border; worn in the Russian style. A gold neck-chain, and heart with patent spring; which, when pressed, opens and discovers the eye of your lover, relative, or friend, beautifully executed on ivory, and finished with an enamelled border. Shoes of black velvet, or purple kid, with velvet bindings, and tied with amber ribband. No. 4.-WALKING DRESS. A round cottage gown of jaconot, or japan muslin, made high in the neck, with long twisted sleeve, and full tops; front of the waist designed in a neat pattern of satin-stitch and openhems, and ornamented round the bottom with fluted muslip. A slouched hat of satin straw, or imperial chip, with a figured silk handkerchief, a bright Coquelicot, formed in bows on the crown, and brought under the chin. A military scarf of double elastic knitting, twisted once round the throat, crossing the back and bosom, with the ends thrown in graceful negligence over the right arm. Shoes of crimson, or light brown velvet ; and gloves of York tan, or pale brown kid. Ff GENERAL OBSERVATIONS ON THE MOST SELECT AND ELEGANT FASHIONS FOR THE SEASON. The militaire of white satin, figured silk, or twill cambric; they are composed chiefly of velvet, a purple or flame colour, and trimmed with mole skin or swansdown, and some are formed of white THE varied tints of the sickening foliage satin; but this latter article is appropriate only to the carriage costume. We have seen several proclaim the decline of the vegetable world, and coats of light blue sarsnet; but such habits we nature gradually sinks into her annual rest. cannot recommend, either as consistent or be advanced state of the season has impelled the coming; light blue is too chilling a colour for migration of our fair fashionables from their summer rambles and autumnal haunts; and we find them daily resorting to their mother-country, the metropolis. The reanimated aspect of our popular streets and squares, bear semblance of the return of hospitality; while taste and fashion dispense their numerous treasures, and announce the approach of the Loves and the Graces. The rich genius of invention was never more apparent than in the present diversified offerings which are exhibited at the shrine of fashion and elegance. Beauty asks not now in vain the aid of external ornament a multiplied collection is before her, and she has only to select with judgment and combine with effect, to appropriate her outward appearance so as to form a prepossessing specimen of internal loveliness and worth; the portrait of our country women will then be complete. Reverting to this end, we felicitate the moderate extension of the waist, and the advanced and increased shading of the bosom. We are friends to an appropriate and correct distinction, and wish not the bust and arms to be completely covered in the evening costume, we are desirous -only that the nicely poised medium which blends taste with delicacy, and fashion with decorum, should be at all times preserved. an autumnal selection, and single sarsnet of too slight a texture to convey an idea of comfort of utility. Hats of the Yeoman form, with triangu lar fronts, formed of velvet, quilted satin, or scarlet kerseymere, checked with white satin or velvet, are new and elegant articles. The edge of these hats are ornamented similar with the trimming which finishes the pelisse, or mantle. Morning bonnets of the Cottage, or Scotch form, composed of the satin-straw, are generally esteemed; and a few Spanish hats of the same, together with those of imperial chip, with full corkscrew edges, ornamented with an autumnal flower in front, are observable in carriages. The Nun's hood, the cap and mob Anne Boleyn, with small half handkerchiefs variously disposed, form the most distinguishing covering for the head in this line. In full dress, the hair with wreaths, flowers, and ornaments in jewellery, is considered as most fashionable. The veil is now entirely laid aside as an head-dress; but we think our elegantes will find no decoration more interesting or becoming. There is a considerable variation in the articles of gowns and robes since our last communication. Morning dresses are chiefly composed of cambric, or jaconot muslin; and the waist and sleeves are worked in a small but full pattern of embroidery in satin-stitch and open-hems. Mull muslin, with the raised coral spot, finished at the feet with a similar beading, terminating at the extreme edge with a narrow Vandyke lace, is an article of 1 our last Number we gave a full description considerable attraction. With these dresses are worn the full plaited, or surplice sleeve, which Rugen mantle, or Swedish wrap; this and novel article still retains its place is gathered at the wrist in a deep cuff, and trimelegant ose females of rank and fashion who med with a Vandyke lace. The bosom is made among tl. elves on a tasteful singularity. We to sit close to the form, and is gored with the pride thems same coral beading as ornaments the dress; for have now, however, to add several other articles an evening it is cut low round the neck, and in this line, which are equally eminent in fashionworn with a simple tucker of Vandyke lace; if able notoriety. The mantle of scarlet kerseyworn as a morning habit, it is either made high mere, reaching to the feet, with a high standing collar, confined round the throat with a rich cord in the neck and finished with a deep Vandyke and tassels, which reach to the bottom of the ruff à la Mary Queen of Scots, or the throat and bosom is covered with a chemisette, or embroiderwaist. These cardinals, or m antles, are trimmed entirely round with scarlet vivet, laid flat, ofed shirt. This chaste ornament, so long and so about a nail in depth, and are particularly dis-justly esteemed for its delicacy and utility, is now tinguishing, appropriate, and becoming. I Most prudent this, and most discerning she, of the won. French coats, or pelisses, are not now permitted treach the bottom of the pettic oat within a quarter of yard. They are at this season worn pen, in the robe style, with chemisettes d-la word with a double plaiting of Vandyke muslin, forming a very high and stiff frill, which sits close round the throat, and is sloped to a point at the chin. The winged ruff forms a dignified and fashionable appendage to the evening dress. For short sleeves we know of none more select than the double Vandyke; the crescent sleeve, and the full puffed sleeve, formed in three divisions, with bands of lace, needle-work, silver, or gold. The fronts of dresses are generally cut to fit the form; and where the bust is finely turned, we know not of any fashion which can be more advantageous; but to a spare figure we recommend a little more embellishment. Round gowns are now so constructed by the French gores, as to have no gathers at the bottom of the waist. Plaid ribbands and scarfs have been introduced within this last fortnight; the latter is twisted round the throat, crosses the back, and falls in irregular lengths down the figure in front, the ends finished with correspondent tassels. The long India shawl of crimson, or orange, is much used as an evening wrap. We never recollect the period when the varied and tasteful disposition of this graceful ornament produced so attractive and becoming an effect. French aprons are less distinguishing than formerly, and Grecian drapery of airy texture, gives place to the pliant and graceful folds of satin, kerseymere, and velvet, more appropriate for the season. Amidst the most fashionable articles in trinkets we observe the Paroquer brooch, as an ornament at once beautiful and unique, it has scarce any competitor. Coral ornaments, together with bright amber, deep topaz, and garnets, variously designed, are in general esteem; and shells set in gold, as brooches for gowns, and in bandeaus, and diadems for the hair, are amidst the fashionable display. The Pigeon brooch (this emblematic ornament which so recently graced the bosoms of our fair fashionables) has in a great degree been exploded for the above-mentioned more nove! ornaments. Can it be judicious thus to banish the turtle from its nest? Shoes are now chosen of white, orange, crimson, or green velvet; for the streets, black and brown of various shades. The new colour for the season is a shading of orange and scarlet, blended so as to represent a bright flame, or pale orange colour. The tartan plaid is just introduced, and it is thought will remain a favourite during the winter. Purple, crimson, morone, and dark green, have also their share in a fashionable selec Sensible as we all profess ourselves to the pleasures of a London residence when autumn's beauties fade, and drooping nature mourns her sad decline, yet we should he continued a few weeks longer in that abode of splendour and fas. cination, but business of an urgent nature called my uncle to town, and though somewhat too early, my aunt proposed we shoul! complete the family cavalcade. So here we are again, my dear Julia, joining the fashionable throng; and here I am destined to remain during the winter, it being resolved that I quit not these kind relatives till I have assisted at the wedding of my cousin Mary, who is to become the bride of Lord LM, early in the spring. With this splendid match in view, we promise ourselves a most brilant winter campaign. I shall endeavour to atone for my lengthened absence from friendship, and Julia, by continuing to transmit her progressive accounts of our movements, and by a detail of such fashionable descriptions as shall continue her unrivalled in taste and elegance midst the belles of Truro. I have pledged myself never to allow my pleasures to infringe on the sacred claims of relative affection, or to weaken those cords which bind me to friendship and you. We have been three days in town-have visited all the fashionable shops, purchased many fashionable articles, been once to the theatre, and last night sported with the gay throng at Lord M's splendid ball. Five hundred cards were issued on the occasion; and four sets arranged themselves for the waltz, reels, and cotillions, dressed in the true Arcadian style; while the more steady nymphs appeared in velvet, satin, or cloth of so fine a texture that its folds, varying with each motion of the figure, exhibited at once the most expressive grace and novel elegance. You know, dear Julia, how immediately my spirits rebound at the sound of sprightly music, and how completely my heart is in unison with my heels when a ball is the order of the evening, Mary and myself did our best; we passed an evening highly-gratifying, and footed it with all our hearts. Here was the new made bride, Lady L—, and her sister-in-law, the Honourable. Miss CW, both meteors that blazed with no ordinary lustre last winter amidst the haut. ton, attracting numerous sporks of fashion in their train. Matrimony (so awful in its nature) has not rendered her Ladyship either sober or sad; for she danced and tried with infinite spirit, and looked beautiful as ever. The display of English heroes was as great this evening as that of British beauties. Amidst the former was the far-famed defender of Acre, who has been so often the subject of your enthusiastic panegyric. I had never before seen him; and as you admire him through the medium of reported excellence, independent of personal knowledge, I propose conveying you by the next packet, the most accurate likeness that was ever taken of this celebrated hero; it is a bronze medal, with his name (Sir Sidney Smith) engraved in the Roman style around the head; and on the reverse is a triumphal crown, encircling the appropriate motto of "Cœur de Lion." As many of our fair Truro friends will probably wish to possess the resemblance of a hero of so much worth and valour, I will just tell you that the medal is sold at the moderate price of half-aguinea, at Lindsell's, Bookseller, Wimpole-street, Cavendish-square; and is considered one of the most classic and striking likenesses that ever came from the hand of a medalist. Austria to his bride elect. With this dress Mary intends wearing her hair fancifully disposed, and ornamented with a diadem of brilliants à-la-Chinese, with earrings and necklace to correspond. At the ball, last evening, were several dancing dresses made simply round, and formed of blos. som, white, or amber satin, decorated at the feet and round the bosom and sleeves with Vandyke, or scolloped lace. This last-mentioned ornament is now however become so general that it will soon decline in fashionable estimation. Amidst the brilliant throng assembled this evening, I was much struck with the beauty and singular appearance of two young women dressed in slight mourning; and who I afterwards found to be the two Misses Js, who were the I suppose, Julia, I should not be forgiven were reigning belles at Cheltenham and Worthing I to conclude this epistle without saying some- during the season. Their attire this evening conthing on the subject of personal decoration. Asisted of a round train dress of black gossamer long list of observations to this effect will there-satin, rising to the edge of the throat, where it fore be enclosed for your edification; and I shall occupy the remainder of this letter with a few choice descriptions, which you may consider as chef d'œuvres of taste and fashion. Mary has this moment received from her millinera Cassock pelisse of white satin, trimmed with gossamer fur; it is made without a cape, and flows open in front, with a College vest of the same. With this elegant and fashionable coat she is to have the new Sultana hat, composed of the same material; it is turned up in front, in the form of a crescent, lined with bright amber velvet, and ornamented with an Angola feather of the same colour, or with a wreath of the sturtion flower. My aunt has presented me with a pelisse, and hat of similar construction, but composed of violet velvet, trimmed with mole skin. My hat, however, differs in a degree from Mary's, being formed entirely of velvet the colour of my pelisse, embroidered at the edge (where it turns up) in a fancy border of a pale amber colour, with a cord and tassel ornamenting the crown. Mary has ordered a most superb robe of the finest flamecoloured cloth (which is now become quite the rage amongst females of rank and taste); it is embroidered in a rich gold border round the train and bosom. It buttons down the back with gold buttons, and a row of the same is placed down the front of the waist. It has a long Bishop's sleeve of the clearest French lawn, striped, and finely plaited between each stripe. It is gathered into an embroidered wrist-band, above which is seen the new Ludovica bracelet, of a similar construction with those presented by the Emperor of finished in a kind of neck-band, formed of three rows of fine pearl. A fine silver filagree net was extended over the bust in front, somewhat like. the bibs worn by the antients; and it was terminated at the bottom of the waist with an elastic band, and large acorn tassels of silver. To these dresses were attached the long Bishop sleeve like those already described as chosen by Mary, except that these were of plain French lawn, clearer than any I have ever before seen, and plaited with the utmost delicacy. On their heads they wore turbans of grey chambrey, thickly frosted with silver; these were fancifully disposed, yet much in the Indian style. But the most attractive part of this interesting costume was a Jerusalem rosary, formed of the beads called Virgin's tears. This rosary was worn round the neck, reached a quarter of a yard below the waist, and from the centre was suspended the Red Cross of the Knights of St. John of Jerusalem; at the extreme edge of which hung an emerald emblematic of the Koran, tending to shew the supre macy of the Christian faith over that of Mahomet, White satin slippers, wove in a pattern of filagree, or rock-work in silver, with Opera fans of carved amber, completed this singularly attractive costume. Figure to yourself, dear Julia, two girls of uncommon beauty, of graceful air and stature, thus attired; and wonder not that they were the reigning planets of the evening-Adieu! I leave you, dear friend, imprest with their images, and hasten to bid you a good night. Ever your ELIZA. London: Printed by and for J. BELL, Southampton-street, Strand, 1807. OR, Bell's COURT AND FASHIONABLE MAGAZINE, FOR NOVEMBER, 1807. EMBELLISHMENTS. 1. An elegant Portrait of HER MAJESTY. THE QUEEN OF ETRURIA, AND Her Son. 2. FOUR WHOLE-LENGTH FIGURES of LADIES in the London Fashions for the Month. 3. An ORIGINAL SONG, set to Music for the Harp and Piano-Forte, expressly and exclusively for this Work, by J. ADDISON. 4. An elegant NEW PATTERN for NEEDLE-WORK. London: Printed by and for J. BELL, Proprietor of the WEEKLY MESSENGER, Southampton-Street, Strand, December 1, 1807. |