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LA BELLE ASSEMBLÉE.
For DECEMBÈR, 1807.
EXPLANATION OF THE PRINTS OF FASHION,
No. 1.-AN EVENING Dress.
loured silks, or trimmings of fancy fur. A beaver A simple round gown of white satin, or coloured hat of the same colour as the coat, turned up on eloih; triangular front, finished with silver bead- the left side, with cockade and band d-la-militaire, ing. Plain back, brought to a point at the bot- and ornamented with a crimped willow feather. tom of the waist, which is increased in length. Hair cropped; coral earrings; York tan gloves; A full short sleeve, with loose slashed ornaments and slippers of red Morocco. in the Spanish sisk; the slashes wrought in an
No. S. elegant pattern of silver enabroidery, and severally finished with a small correspondent tassel. The
A frock dress of plain cambric, or India mushair bound tight round the head in the Grecian lin; with short Bishop's sleeve, round bosom, style, twisted in braids behind, the ends formed and drawn back. A plain drawn tucker of Paris in a tuft of full curls, and confined with a gold || net; the frock trimmed down the sides with the comb, from whence are seen pendent ringlets, same, or gathered muslin, A French pelerine, similar to those which fall on the left shoulder; | of fluted velvet, or plaited lawn, with high ruff; in front it is divided over the left temple with the the tippet crossing the bosom in front, is tied in Diana crescent, of pink topaz, above which are a bow at the bottom of the waist behind. A a few dishevelled curls. Necklace and earrings || poke bonnet, of basket willow, or striped velvet, of pink topaz, bracelets of linked pears, with cor. with full bows, and long ends of shaded orange respondent studs. A Circassian scarf of orange, ribband on one side. York tan gloves above the or crimson, figured or plain, with rich border and elbow. Turkish slippers of red Morocco. fringe at the ends, of colours tastefully varied
No. 4. This shawl is thrown carelessly round the throat, or across the shoulders, or is formed in a negligent A Zealand wrap, of crimson Georgian cloth, and graceful drapery, by the disposition of the the bosom and cuffs composed of fluted velvet hands. Turkish slippers of white satin; and the same colour. A mountain bonnet trimmed white kid gloves rucked.
lo correspond, and ornamented with a shaded
handkerchief; which is formed in a full luft on No.2.-MORNING WALKING Dress.
the left side, and brought under the chin. A A high military vest of French cainbric, lawn, high ruff, of French lace, with scollopped edge, er muslin, buttoned down the front; and formed || brought to a point in the centre of the bosom. with the chemisette waist, and high collar. Cir- A rich cord and acorn tassel confining the coat cassian robe-pelisse, of pule olive, dove, puce, round the waist, and tied in front with long or purple, formed of napped velvet, twill sarsnet, ends. The under dress of plain muslin, or French kersey mere, or Georgian cloth; bordered with a cambric. Shoes of browa velvet, and gloves rich shaded Brucade ribhand, embroidery in co- Limerick kid. No. XXIV. Vol. III.
ON THE MOST APPROVED AND
robe of sombre hue; but the solemnity is removed by borders and trimmings of embroidery,
in colours. We have seldom seen a dress comELEGANT FASHIONS FOR THE SEASON. || bining more taste and beauty than one of black
Italian gauze, embroidered round the train, boThe fashions for the winter may now be
som, and sleeves, with a border of wild roses and considered fixed as to style; and that interme | jessamine, tastefully blended, and worn over a diate and party-coloured costume which generally | white satin slip. Velvet and superfine cloth distinguishes the decline of autumn is completely dresses, richly embroidered, and formed in the laid aside. Articles, combining at once taste, Calypso robe, or Diana vest, stand high in richfashion, and utility, are observable in walking
ness and beauty. Lace is let in to every part of and carriage habiliments. In public, a brilliant | this last-mentioned habit, but is most distinand endless variety is displayed; and elegance, | guishable down each side, so as to give the apo grace, and beauty may be said to shine unrivalled.
pearance of a robe and petticoat. Deep em. We shall, with our accustomed attention, select || broidered borders of needle-work are continged from their several orders such articles as carry the
round the trains, and across the front of dresses, stamp of fashionable superiority, not only from
in representation of the rounded wrap. Buontta their own individual elegance, but from their
of velvet, of the poke form, cut so as to display being chosen by females who rank high on the list
the ears, and ornamented with fur, or puckered of tonish celebrity. We have not been able to dis- || silk, the colour of the lining of the pelisse, are cover much diversity in the construction of man. || much in esteem. Figured sarsnet bonnets, with tles and pelisses. They are now ronsidered more the simple round crown, and turned up in the fashionable in proportion to their plainness; and high crescent form over the left eye, in full although some few are made with robbins and | puckers, or reversed plaiting; beaver riding-hats, Grecian vests, trimmed with fancy fur, yet the of dove or purple, and otherwise shaded to match most select and fashionable are in formation like the pelisse or mantle; fur caps, and jockey bonthe Turkish robe, with a waistcoat of the same,
nets of purple leather, seamed with bright yelor composed of an appropriate silk, and breasted low, or red, are severally selected by the fashion
The Maltese mantle of tiger able female. Small half-handkerchiefs, in covelvet is in general esteem; and the long cano
loured net, with rich borders, are still considered nical cloak of crimson, orange, or brown, formed
as a becoming change. The corner behind is of kersey mere, or Georgian cloth, are both useful, cut off, and the border continued straight along appropriate, and becoming articles. The edges the back, while the ends which fall on each side of these are severally ornamented with velvet the head are finished with an acorn tassel, corborders, laid flat; a full cable-twisted cord responding with the border; and on the foreplaced at a little distance from the eclge, or with head it is formed precisely like the Anne Bul. skins happily contrasted with the colour of the len mob. mantle. The Parisian fashion of associating co- The Swedish peasani's jacket and petticuat, is lours, is adopted by the British female, though a habit of n:uch attraction and simplicity; com. in other respects the Gallic fair have long bebining a sort of rusticity and interest, at once come copyists of our English style. The cou-appropriate, and becoming to the youthful wearer. pling of our colours, however, we consider as Trains are now very general in the evening dress; more chaste and consistent for the season; they | and are frequently trimmed entirely round with still continue the pale lines of summer, while a broad lace. Muslins are usually worn very we are uniting the glowing orange, or brilliant clear, and the petticoat so short, as to exhibit the coquelicot and morone, with the most tasteful ankle through, which is laced in the sandal style, shades of contrasted elegance. In the article of ornamented with the open-wove stocking. We gowns and robes, there is much novelty and at- have seen a dress of this kind composed of blue traction. Coloured dresses, variously constructed, crape, with trimmings and drapery of silver-net and of divers forms and materials, are exhibited; and lifies. The hair still presertes the Grecia and in full dress, less white garments are dis- | and antique style; but is variously and fancifully tinguishable than have been observable for many disposed. Some braid the whole of the hind years, white dresses being now more generally hair, and curling the ends, form them in full confined to the morning costume. The sable robe curis over the left eye. Others confine it tight is not now considered only as the symbol of sor- | round the head in sınooth bands, over which are row, as an emblem of mournful regret for de. | placed several small braids, which are twisted at parted excellence, friendship, or love. The the back of the head, like that given in No. 1, of sprightly nymph, the cheerful matron, with our Prints of Fashion; and sume form the hind fashion's gayest offspring, frequently adopt the hair in dishevelled curls, and form it in a becom
ing disorder on the crown of the head, meeting quillity; having hitherto resisted all altacks of the curls on the forehead, which are divided so the arch god !-Thus am I released from one of as to discover the left temple and eye-brow; your accusations, want of candour. Now as 10 while many prefer the simple erop, curled on the your charge of stoicism, I am fearful I shall not top like those worn by the gentlemen. Morn- come off quite so well. But there is merit, you ing gowns are often laced behind with coloured know, Julia, in braving danger; and some illcord, and formed with the military front made | genuity (when surrounded with fames and darts) in similar lacings, and correspondent buttons. in escaping without a wound. True, the men
The cap is now chiefly confined to the morning 1 generally mix with are fashionable, wealthy, costume; and in this article we see nothing and elegant; but do you not know that I retain strikingly novel. Turbans seem to be entirely ex.
a spice of the romance in my composition ; and ploded; but hats of frosted satin, or velvet, some
a fashionable husband (in the common acceptawhat in the turban style, may very well supply || tion of that word) would break my heart in a their place. In these hats the weeping willow twelvemonth. Riches, to be sure, is the general feather is usually seen, delicately tipped with magnet of attraction; but I prize the wealth of silver. Necklaces of seed coral, with gold em
the heart ! bossed patent snaps; bracelets, of the same;
“ The smiles of affection are riches to me;" brooches and earring, to correspond, wrought in
and here I feel that I should be a trilling exacter. antique devices, or in Egyptian characters, are
Thus, Julia, you will perceive that, I am not only articles of considerable estimation on the list of 1 free, but likely to remain so! And Mary assures trinkets. The rainbow diadem, and Ethiopian | me, that unless I descend from my stilts, and crescent, are also new and elegant ornaments. content myself ty taking " man as he is,” I Bracelets are now worn of different orders, one shall to a certainty end my days in “ single of elastic hair, with variegated stud; the other blessedness,"-- Amen! and so be it!-at least for of Scotch pebbles, or mocho stone, set in gold. || the present. And now, dear Julia, let me proSlippers of red Morocco are revived in the fa- ceed to tell you, that all the world of fashion is shionable world; white satin are considered most collected in this gay city; while splendid parties, elegant in full dress. The prevailing colours brilliant assemblies, crowded theatres, and dashare, mixtures of orange, coquelicot, green, purple, ing equipages, seem the order of the day. The amber, and rose-pink,
town house of iny uncle, together with several of vur fashionable frier.ds, has been entirely new
furnished, and exhibits a most beautiful specimen LETTER ON DRESS,
of the Chinese and Grecian style; while the taste
and elegance, distinguishable in female attire, is INTRODUCTORY AND DESCRIPTIVE, FROM ELIZA in conformity with this fashionable standard,
Mary has just received accounts of the Parisian
Portman-square. fasbions ; but as they represent nothing striking You rally me, dear Julia, on my late indispo.
or povel, I shall content myself by showing you
how we in some instances avoid their absurdities. sition, and ask nie “if my malady was not of the heart ?” You tell me, I must be formed of stoical | They tell us that feashers are now “the sign of materials to be so long surrounderl with men of
a complete neglige.” We have ever considered • fashion and elegance, without becoming sensible them the distinguishing mark of full, or at least
of their attractions, and that homage I am cal. li of half dress, in proportion as they vary in foron culated to inspire! You accuse me with want of tion, height, and size. The weeping, or crimped Candour; tell me " that I am a niggard in friend. willow feather, coloured or plain; and in full ship ; and that by concealing my emotions, I rob || dress, tipped or frosted with gold or silver, and you of the sacred privilege of participation." | drooping towards one side of the head, is a Before I enter on the usual subject of fashionable most approved and fashionable ornament with intelligence, I feel bound (in justice to myself) us. They are usually worn with the military, to answer these strangely imagined accusations. Spanish, or Chinese turban hat, formed of white, And as my preliminary engagement with you | purple, or crimson velvet, appliquerl, or inter. necessarily enforces a subject, which however woven with small gold or silver stars, and ornaextensive in its nature, must needs admit of a mented with corresponding cord and tassels. little relief, it will not be amiss if I amuse. The fichu, in Paris, is disposed so as to conceal the myself, and satisfy you, by silencing your sug. breast, and display the back and shoulders. In gestions. Know then, dear Julia, on my faith this fashion they have, as is now usual, imitated and verity, my sickness was not of the heart! us. The bosom of our robes having been long This too often rebellious part of the human since so constructed as to shade the bust in frame, rests at present in perfect peace and tran- | front, which has a similar and more simple
effect, while the back and shoulders have been :, Chinese diadem and comb, of blended diamonds somewhat indecorously and unbecoiningly ex- and pearls, confine and ornament the hair, and posed. Within this last month, however, deep' compose also the necklace, earrings, and bracelace of a most delicate texture, has been placed lets. She wears the new Turkish slipper of across the back, gathered in the centre, and on white satin, which is embroidered with the red. each shoulder with brooches. When I attempt, heath at the tue. I must not forget to tell you dear Julia, to give you a delineation of fashionable that rings are invariably, and abundantly disattire, I am puzzled with the multiplicity and played by us fashionables; three or four are worn variety which present themselves to my mind's on the liutle finger. They consist of the simple eye. I have endeavoured, however, to execute gold hoop, with a small stone in the centre of your commissions to the best of my power; and each, of the diamond, ruby, emerald, and anze. with this you will receive your ball dress, or exe- thyst. The rainbow hoop-ring, formed in similar cution rohe! so christened by my sprightly cousin, variety, takes place of the diamond, by way of who joins me in wishing that it may prove a guard to the wedding ring. But you and I, talisman, by which you may slaughter your Julia, have as yet, nothing to do with this last envious rivals, and lay love at your feet.
mentioned article; and when we have, I trust Your pelisse, I have chosen of fine Georgian that our guard will boast a more auspicious cloth; because it is quite as genteel, and more emblem than that of variety. The long sleeve appropriate for your purpose than velvet. Your of plaited lawn, which you mention, is conbeaver hat, of the military order, cannot fail to sidered very elegant and select; and that of net please; being likely to form an agreeable associa- lace, setting close to the arm, with bracelets and tion with your present state of affairs. The ornaments on the outside, is much worn in evenChinese scarf you may twist round your figure in ing parties. Coloured satin spensers trimmed a diversity of forms; sometimes disposing it in a with mole, linx, or swansdown, 'is a useful graceful impery for your round muslin, or plain change; and may be worn with white dresses of satin dress; at others, forming it as a military | almost every construction. We find them a com. sash; each of which will produce an elegant | fortable and becoming shelter from the partial effect on your sylph-like figure.
air of the theatres; ours are formed of rose-pink going to a splendid party this evening, I must satin, trimmed with gossamer fyr. And now, hasten to give you a few more samples of fa- dear Julia, before I take my leave, a word or two shionable attire, enclose my list of general re- for the dear vicarage. You will make known marks, and then proceed to my toilet. I believe there, that the long-wished for work of our I have before observed that coloured dresses of venerable favourite, the Reverend Percival Stockvarious materials, and constructions, are all the dale, is just ushereil into public, and is entitled rage. White satin, with black n t drapery, em- “ Lectures on the Great British Poets.” Several broidered in colours, and tastefully disposed, is, of the literati speak highly of this production; however, considered very fashionable and elegant. and my uncle (who you know is a most able Mary appears this evening in a most beautiful || judge of classical inerit) says that it not only costume after th- above design. It is a simple contains the most rehned and correct criticisms on round dress of white satin, with a plain waist, poets, but exhibits specimens of a truly graceful and full short sleeve. The back and shoulders and poetic mind in the lecturer. That in the one cut very low, and a drapery of black net appear- on Spenser, all the ench.ntments of the most ing in front like a large half square. The comer chivalric genius are displayed; and that throughtaken off behind, and erabrydered all round in out the whole of the work the reader is led a most beautiful border of the cape-heath and through scenery as romantic as the poet's fairy myrtle: this drapery is placed across the back, i land, and as interesting as any romance that has gathered in a pearl brooch of the shell form, on charmed the nineteenth century. In dwelling the left shoulder; one corner reaching below the thus on its merits, I shall doubtless secure it a kuee, where it is finished with a variegated tassel, mest welcome rec ption in the libraries of my corresponding with the colours which compose Truro friends, Adieu, dear Julia ! believe me the border. The other is extended plain over the ever, with love unfeigned, your bosom, which it delicately casts into shade. All
As we are
London: Printed by und for John BELL, Southampton-street, Strand.
COURT AND FASHIONABLE
FOR DECEMBER, 1907.
1. An elegant Portrait of Her Royal HIGHNESS THE DUCHESS OF BRUNSWICK.
BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES OF ILLUS- FAMILIAR LECTURES ON USEFUL TRIOUS LADIES.
POETRY. tain Animals .........
293 The Ladies' Toilette; or, Encyclopædia of Original and Select Beauty ...
296 War; a Dream
299 The Brothers,
PUBLIC AMUSEMENTS. Meiner's History of the Female Sex.... 302
Two Faces under a Hood
333 The Dog of Melai
339 Essay on Printing
Essay on the Stage ..
ib. On the rage for building
.... 312 On good Travellers......
314 Barbito, pr. The Ghost of Cuenca; a
LA BELLE ASSEMBLEE. Spanish `Tale.
315 Essay on Knotting :
319 || Explanation of the Prints of Fasbion.... - on Anger 321 English and Parisian Costumes
342 The Cestus; or, Girdle of Venus..
General Observations on the most select A Connubial Story......
324 and elegant Fashions for the Season.. ib. An account of Thomas Williams Malkin, Letter on Dress ....
..... 343 a Child of extraordinary Attainments.. 326 Supplementary Advertisements for the Month.
London : Printed by and for J. Bell, Proprietor of the WEELY MESSENGER, Southampton-Street,
Strand, January 1, 1808.