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GENERAL OBSERVATIONS

ON THE MOST APPROVED AND

robe of sombre hue; but the solemnity is removed by borders and trimmings of embroidery, in colours. We have seldom seen a dress com.

ELEGANT FASHIONS FOR THE SEASON. bining more taste and beauty than one of black

Italian gauze, embroidered round the train, bosom, and sleeves, with a border of wild roses and

white satin slip. Velvet and superfine cloth dresses, richly embroidered, and formed in the Calypso robe, or Diana vest, stand high in richness and beauty. Lace is let in to every part of this last-mentioned habit, but is most distinguishable down each side, so as to give the ap‐ pearance of a robe and petticoat. Deep em. broidered borders of needle-work are continued round the trains, and across the front of dresses, in representation of the rounded wrap. Bonnets of velvet, of the poke form, cut so as to display the ears, and ornamented with fur, or puckered silk, the colour of the lining of the pelisse, are much in esteem. Figured sarsnet bonnets, with high crescent form over the left eye, in full the simple round crown, and turned up in the puckers, or reversed plaiting; beaver riding-hats, of dove or purple, and otherwise shaded to match the pelisse or mantle; fur caps, and jockey bonnets of purple leather, seamed with bright yel low, or red, are severally selected by the fashionable female. Small half-handkerchiefs, in coloured net, with rich borders, are still considered as a becoming change. The corner behind is cut off, and the border continued straight along the back, while the ends which fall on each side the head are finished with an acorn tassel, corresponding with the border; and on the forehead it is formed precisely like the Anne Bul. len mob.

THE fashions for the winter may now be considered fixed as to style; and that interme-jessamine, tastefully blended, and worn over a diate and party-coloured costume which generally distinguishes the decline of autumn is completely laid aside. Articles, combining at once taste, fashion, and utility, are observable in walking and carriage habiliments. In public, a brilliant and endless variety is displayed; and elegance, grace, and beauty may be said to shine unrivalled. We shall, with our accustomed attention, select from their several orders such articles as carry the stamp of fashionable superiority, not only from their own individual elegance, but from their being chosen by females who rank high on the list of tonish celebrity. We have not been able to discover much diversity in the construction of mantles and pelisses. They are now considered more fashionable in proportion to their plainness; and although some few are made with robbins and Grecian vests, trimmed with fancy fur, yet the most select and fashionable are in formation like the Turkish robe, with a waistcoat of the same, or composed of an appropriate silk, and breasted a-la-militaire. The Maltese mantle of tiger velvet is in general esteem; and the long canonical cloak of crimson, orange, or brown, formed of kerseymere, or Georgian cloth, are both useful, appropriate, and becoming articles. The edges of these are severally ornamented with velvet borders, laid flat; a full cable-twisted cord placed at a little distance from the edge, or with skins happily contrasted with the colour of the mantle. The Parisian fashion of associating colours, is adopted by the British female, though in other respects the Gallic fair have long become copyists of our English style. The coupling of our colours, however, we consider as more chaste and consistent for the season; they still continue the pale lines of summer, while we are uniting the glowing orange, or brilliant coquelicot and morone, with the most tasteful shades of contrasted elegance. In the article of gowns and robes, there is much novelty and attraction. Coloured dresses, variously constructed, and of divers forms and materials, are exhibited; and in full dress, less white garments are distinguishable than have been observable for many years, white dresses being now more generally confined to the morning costume. The sable robe is not now considered only as the symbol of sor-round the head in smooth bands, over which are row, as an emblem of mournful regret for departed excellence, friendship, or love. The sprightly nymph, the cheerful matron, with fashion's gayest offspring, frequently adopt the

The Swedish peasant's jacket and petticoat, is a habit of much attraction and simplicity; combining a sort of rusticity and interest, at once appropriate, and becoming to the youthful wearer. Trains are now very general in the evening dress; and are frequently trimmed entirely round with a broad lace. Muslins are usually worn very clear, and the petticoat so short, as to exhibit the ankle through, which is laced in the sandal style, ornamented with the open-wove stocking. We have seen a dress of this kind composed of blue crape, with trimmings and drapery of silver-net and lilies. The hair still preserves the Grecian and antique style; but is variously and fancifully disposed. Some braid the whole of the hind hair, and curling the ends, form them in full curls over the left eye. Others confine it tight

placed several small braids, which are twisted at the back of the head, like that given in No. 1, of our Prints of Fashion; and some form the hind hair in dishevelled curls, and form it in a becom

quillity; having hitherto resisted all attacks of
the arch god!-Thus am 1 released from one of
your accusations, want of candour.
Now as to
your charge of stoicism, I am fearful I shall not
come off quite so well. But there is merit, you
know, Julia, in braving danger; and some in-
genuity (when surrounded with flames and darts)
in escaping without a wound. True, the men
I generally mix with are fashionable, wealthy,
and elegant; but do you not know that I retain
a spice of the romance in my composition; and
a fashionable husband (in the common accepta-
tion of that word) would break my heart in a
twelvemonth. Riches, to be sure, is the general
magnet of attraction; but I prize the wealth of
the heart!

ing disorder on the crown of the head, meeting the curls on the forehead, which are divided so as to discover the left temple and eye-brow; while many prefer the simple crop, curled on the top like those worn by the gentlemen. Morning gowns are often laced behind with coloured cord, and formed with the military front made in similar lacings, and correspondent buttons. The cap is now chiefly confined to the morning costume; and in this article we see nothing strikingly novel. Turbans seem to be entirely exploded; but hats of frosted satin, or velvet, somewhat in the turban style, may very well supply their place. In these hats the weeping willow feather is usually seen, delicately tipped with silver. Necklaces of seed coral, with gold embossed patent snaps; bracelets, of the same; brooches and earrings to correspond, wrought in antique devices, or in Egyptian characters, are articles of considerable estimation on the list of trinkets. The rainbow diadem, and Ethiopian crescent, are also new and elegant ornaments. Bracelets are now worn of different orders, one of elastic hair, with variegated stud; the other of Scotch pebbles, or mocho stone, set in gold. Slippers of red Morocco are revived in the fashionable world; white satin are considered most elegant in full dress. The prevailing colours are, mixtures of orange, coquelicot, green, purple, || ing equipages, seem the order of the day. The amber, and rose-pink.

LETTER ON DRESS,

INTRODUCTORY AND DESCRIPTIVE, FROM ELIZA

TO JULIA.

Portman-square.

You rally me, dear Julia, on my late indispo sition, and ask me "if my malady was not of the heart?" You tell me, I must be formed of stoical materials to be so long surrounded with men of fashion and elegance, without becoming sensible of their attractions, and that homage I am calculated to inspire! You accuse me with want of candour; tell me "that I am a niggard in friendship; and that by concealing my emotions, I rob you of the sacred privilege of participation." Before I enter on the usual subject of fashionable intelligence, I feel bound (in justice to myself) to answer these strangely imagined accusations. And as my preliminary engagement with you necessarily enforces a subject, which however extensive in its nature, must needs admit of a little relief, it will not be amiss if I amuse myself, and satisfy you, by silencing your suggestions. Know then, dear Julia, on my faith and verity, my sickness was not of the heart! This too often rebellious part of the human frame, rests at present in perfect peace and tran

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"The smiles of affection are riches to me;" and here I feel that I should be a trifling exacter. Thus, Julia, you will perceive that, I am not only free, but likely to remain so! And Mary assures me, that unless I descend from my stilts, and content myself by taking "man as he is," I shall to a certainty end my days in single blessedness,"-Amen! and so be it!at least for the present. And now, dear Julia, let me proceed to tell you, that all the world of fashion is collected in this gay city; while splendid parties, brilliant assemblies, crowded theatres, and dash

town house of my uncle, together with several of our fashionable friends, has been entirely new furnished, and exhibits a most beautiful specimen of the Chinese and Grecian style; while the taste and elegance, distinguishable in female attire, is in conformity with this fashionable standard. Mary has just received accounts of the Parisian fashions; but as they represent nothing striking or novel, I shall content myself by shewing you how we in some instances avoid their absurdities. They tell us that featliers are now "the sign of a complete negligé." We have ever considered then the distinguishing mark of full, or at least of half dress, in proportion as they vary in formition, height, and size. The weeping, or crimped willow feather, coloured or plain; and in full dress, tipped or frosted with gold or silver, and drooping towards one side of the head, is a most approved and fashionable ornament with us. They are usually worn with the military, Spanish, or Chinese turban hat, formed of white, purple, or crimson velvet, appliqued, or interwoven with small gold or silver stars, and ornamented with corresponding cord and tassels. The fichu, in Paris, is disposed so as to conceal the breast, and display the back and shoulders. In this fashion they have, as is now usual, imitated us. The bosom of our robes having been long since so constructed as to shade the bust in front, which has a similar and more simple

effect, while the back and shoulders have been somewhat indecorously and unbecomingly exposed. Within this last month, however, deep lace of a most delicate texture, has been placed across the back, gathered in the centre, and on each shoulder with brooches. When I attempt, dear Juli, to give you a delineation of fashionable attire, I am puzzled with the multiplicity and variety which present themselves to my mind's eye. I have endeavoured, however, to execute your commissions to the best of my power; and with this you will receive your ball dress, or execution rohe! so christened by my sprightly cousin, who joins me in wishing that it may prove a talisman, by which you may slaughter your envious rivals, and lay love at your feet.

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Chinese diadem and comb, of blended diamonds and pearls, confine and ornament the hair, and compose also the necklace, earrings, and brace lets. She wears the new Turkish slipper of white satin, which is embroidered with the redheath at the toe. I must not forget to tell you that rings are invariably, and abundantly dis played by us fashionables; three or four are worn on the little finger. They consist of the simple gold hoop, with a small stone in the centre of each, of the diamond, ruby, emerald, and ame thyst. The rainbow hoop-ring, formed in similar variety, takes place of the diamond, by way of guard to the wedding ring. But you and I, Julia, have as yet, nothing to do with this last mentioned article; and when we have, I trust that our guard will boast a more auspicious emblem than that of variety. The long sleeve of plaited lawn, which you mention, is considered very elegant and select; and that of net lace, setting close to the arm, with bracelets and ornaments on the outside, is much worn in evening parties. Coloured satin spensers trimmed with mole, linx, or swansdown, is a useful change; and may be worn with white dresses of almost every construction. We find them a com. fortable and becoming shelter from the partial air of the theatres; ours are formed of rose-pink satin, trimmed with gossamer fur. And now, dear Julia, before I take my leave, a word or two for the dear vicarage. You will make known there, that the long-wished for work of our venerable favourite, the Reverend Percival Stockdale, is just ushered into public, and is entitled "Lectures on the Great British Poets." Several of the literati speak highly of this production;

Your pelisse, I have chosen of fine Georgian cloth; because it is quite as genteel, and more appropriate for your purpose than velvet. Your beaver hat, of the military order, cannot fail to please; being likely to form an agreeable association with your present state of affairs. The Chinese scarf you may twist round your figure in a diversity of forms; sometimes disposing it in a graceful drapery for your round muslin, or plain satin dress; at others, forming it as a military sash; each of which will produce an elegant effect on your sylph like figure. As we are going to a splendid party this evening, I must hasten to give you a few more samples of fa- | shionable attire, enclose my list of general remarks, and then proceed to my toilet. I believe I have before observed that coloured dresses of various materials, and constructions, are all the rage. White satin, with black n t drapery, embroidered in colours, and tastefully disposed, is, however, considered very fashionable and elegant.and my uncle (who you know is a most able

Mary appears this evening in a most beautiful costume after the above design. It is a simple round dress of white satin, with a plain waist, and full short sleeve. The back and shoulders cut very low, and a drapery of black net appearing in front like a large half square. The corner taken off behind, and embroidered all round in a most beautiful border of the cape-heath and myrtle: this drapery is placed across the back, gathered in a pearl brooch of the shell form, on the left shoulder; one corner reaching below the kuce, where it is finished with a variegated tassel, corresponding with the colours which compose the border. The other is extended plain over the bosom, which it delicately casts into shade. A

judge of classical merit) says that it not only contains the most refined and correct criticisms on poets, but exhibits specimens of a truly graceful and poetic mind in the lecturer. That in the one on Spenser, all the enchantments of the most chivalric genius are displayed; and that throughout the whole of the work the reader is led through scenery as romantic as the poet's fairy land, and as interesting as any romance that has charmed the nineteenth century. In dwelling thus on its merits, I shall doubtless secure it a most welcome rec ption in the libraries of my Truro friends, Adieu, dear Julia! believe me ever, with love unfeigned, your

ELIZA.

London: Printed by and for JOHN BELL, Southampton-street, Strand.

OR,

Bell's

COURT AND FASHIONABLE

MAGAZINE,

FOR DECEMBER, 1907.

EMBELLISHMENTS.

1. An elegant Portrait of HER ROYAL HIGHNESS THE DUCHESS OF BRUNSWICK 2. THREE WHOLE-LENGTH FIGURES in the Fashions of the Month.

3. An ORIGINAL COUNTRY DANCE, composed and set to Music by Mr. Gow. 4. An ORIGINAL WALTZ, composed by Mr. KOLLMAN

5. An elegant new PATTERN for NEEDLE-WORK,

BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCHES OF ILLUS

TRIOUS LADIES.

FAMILIAR LECTURES ON USEFUL

SCIENCES.

Her R. H. the Duchess of Brunswick.... 291 On Magnetism

ORIGINAL COMMUNICATIONS.

Culinary Researches

325

333

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London: Printed by and for J. BELL, Proprietor of the WEELY MESSENGER, Southampton-Street, Strand, January 1, 1808.

ALL THE CARTOONS OF RAPHAEL,

Now in the Royal Palace of Hampton Court, have been most correctly copied, and are now Engraven accurately, and precisely in the style of Outline, under the inspection of the first Artist of the age, and these most valuable Prints, Seven in number, the size Royal Octavo, are given as the Embellishments in

THE SUPPLEMENTAL NUMBER

OF

LA BELLE ASSEMBLÉE,

OR

BELL'S COURT AND FASHIONABLE MAGAZINE, Published this Day, together with the present Number, at the usual price of 2s. 6d. although the Cartoon Prints alone, may be justly estimated worth Two Guineas.

The following are the Subjects:

1st. The Death of Ananias.

2d. Paul Preaching at Athens.

Sd. The Miraculous Draught of Fishes. 4th. The Charge to Peter.

5th. Elymas the Sorcerer.

6th. The Sacrifice to Paul and Barnabas.

7th. Peter and John healing the Lame Man in the Temple.

Of these Plates no accurate Engravings have ever been made; the imperfect representations of them, now extant, are only to be had at the most extravagant price. The present collection therefore being copied from the Original Pictures, and being complete and faithful, must be esteemed of the highest value to the man of taste, the lover of the Arts, the collector, and to such as value the graphic illustrations of the most beautiful and affecting part of Scriptural History.

The genius of the mighty Raphael is here presented at one view, and those works faithfully represented, which are esteemed the glory of Britain to possess, and the just pride of the ancient school to have produced. These Engravings are accompanied with Critical, Historical, and Explanatory Details.

1

ment in conducting the future Numbers of L BELLE ASSEMBLEE, without abridging or abatinga single particle of those Attractions which have already raised the Work to such an eminent degree of popu larity.

Title-Page and Index to the Volume for 1807, are given in this Number.

N.B. The New Arrangements, and actual Extraordi nary Embellishments to be introduced in LA BELLE| ASSEMBLEE, have been postponed, at the suggestion of many of our Subscribers, till the commencement of the New Year, and the completion of the presen: Volume; and as the present Number, together with the Supplement, completes the Volume, the next Nor ber (being No. 27,) to be published on the first of Fe bruary, will commence with the New Arrangements.

A correct OUTLINE of Mr. WEST'S memorable His torical Picture, "The Death of General Wolfe," wil be given as the first Outline in this Number. It is ex ecuted under the immediate direction of that illustrious Artist, and will be a most estimable treasure.

The Supplemental Number contains, as usual, Sixtyfour Pages of Literary Review, and in it will be deve-Messenger, Southampton-street, London.

Printed for JOHN BELL, Proprietor of the Weekly

loped a most extensive and valuable Plan of Improve

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