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is of course inaudible. A pleasing walk of four or five miles may be obtained thus ; pursue the road to Ambleside until it enters that from Kendal, (this portion of the walk will be particularized presently :) turn to the right, and keep on this road for about a mile. The Wood, St. Catherine's, and Elleray, are passed on the left. The last is the property of Professor Wilson of Edinburgh, but at present it is occupied by Thomas Hamilton, Esq., the author of Cyril Thornton, of a history of the Peninsular Campaigns, and other literary Works. The house is perched upon the hill-side, having beautiful views of the surrounding scenery visible from its windows. It is thus alluded to in one of the poems of its owner.

"And sweet that dwelling rests upon the brow
(Beneath its sycamore,) of Orrest Hill,

As if it smiled on Windermere below,

Her green recesses and her islands still !"

A narrow lane branches off from the Kendal road near the Orrest Head gate, by which Bowness will be reached one mile and a half from Orrest Head.

The more distant excursions will include the valley of Troutbeck,* the circuit of the two sections of Windermere, Esthwaite Water, and Coniston Lake. These are but a few, but an inspection of the chart will suggest others.

Quitting Bowness for Ambleside, the stately woods of Rayrigg are entered three quarters of a mile from the former place. A bay of the lake is then seen to project almost to the road. Rayrigg House stands

*For a description of this valley refer to page 23.

on the left near the water's edge; shortly before emerging from the wood the road ascends a steep hill and then pursues a level course, affording from its terrace a magnificent view of the lake-a view "to which," says Wilson, "there was nothing to compare in the hanging gardens of Babylon. There is the widest breadth of water-the richest foreground of wood---and the most magnificent background of mountains, not only in Westmorland, but---believe us -in all the world." Our old acquaintances, the two Pikes of Langdale, are easily recognized. On the left is Bowfell, a square topped hill, between which and the Pikes, Great End and Great Gable peep up. On the left of Bowfell the summit of Scawfell Pike is faintly visible. The road is intersected two miles from Bowness by the Kendal and Ambleside road, at a place called Cook's House, nine miles from Kendal. A road proceeds into Troutbeck in a line with the one over which we have been conducting the tourist. From Cook's House to Troutbeck Bridge is almost a mile. From this place a road conducts by the west bank of the stream to the village of Troutbeck, the nearest part of which is a mile and a half distant. Continuing our progress towards Ambleside, Calgarth, embosomed in trees, is passed on the left. The late Bishop Watson built this mansion, and resided here during the latter years of his life; it is still occupied by his descendants. Two miles beyond is Low Wood Inn, which, standing pleasantly on the margin of the lake at its broadest part, is an excellent station for those who are able to devote a few days to the beauties of the neighbourhood. Most of the excur

sions recommended to be made from Ambleside may, with almost equal advantage, be performed from this inn. Close at hand is Dove's Nest, the house Mrs. Hemans inhabited one summer. Her description of the place, taken from her delightful letters, will not be deemed uninteresting :-" The house was originally meant for a small villa, though it has long passed into the hands of farmers, and there is, in consequence, an air of neglect about the little demesne, which does not at all approach desolation, and yet gives it something of touching interest. You see everywhere traces of love and care beginning to be effaced-rose-trees spreading into wildness-laurels darkening the windows with too luxuriant branches; and I cannot help saying to myself, Perhaps some heart like my own in its feelings and sufferings has here sought refuge and repose.' The ground is laid out in rather an antiquated style; which, now that nature is beginning to reclaim it from art, I do not at all dislike. There is a little grassy terrace immediately under the window, descending to a small court, with a circular grass plot, on which grows one tall white rose-tree. You cannot imagine how much I delight in that fair, solitary, neglected-looking tree. I am writing to you from an old fashioned alcove in the little garden, round which the sweet briar and the rose-tree have completely run wild ; and I look down from it upon lovely Winandermere, which seems at this moment even like another sky, so truly is every summer cloud and tint of azure pictured in its transparent mirror.

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"I am so delighted with the spot, that I scarcely know how I shall leave it. The situation is one of the deepest retirement; but the bright lake before me, with all its fairy barks and sails, glancing like 'things of life' over its blue water, prevents the solitude from being overshadowed by anything like sadness." Wansfell Holm, (George Warden, Esq.) is seen on the right, immediately before reaching the head of Windermere. The road for the last three or four miles has been alternately approaching to and receding from the margin of the lake, but never retiring further from it than a few fathoms. At Waterhead is the neat residence of Mr. Thomas Jackson, and further on, Waterside, (Mr. William Newton,) is passed on the left. Ambleside, the termination of our perambulation of twenty-nine miles, is entered one mile beyond.

ON RIGHT FROM AMBLESID.

134

V. AMBLESIDE-RYDAL-GRASMERE-THIRLEMERE-KESWICK.

16 MILES.

From

Keswick.

From

Ambles.

ON LEFT FROM AMBLESIDE.

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Excavations of great size have 123 White Moss Slate Quarry. 2

been made here. At this place the old road to Grasmere branches off. It is shorter, and to be preferred by those on foot, for the fine views it com-! mands of Rydal and Grasmere lakes. It leads past "The Wishing Gate."

One of these cottages was 12 Wordsworth's dwelling for seven years, De Quincey afterwards resided in it for some time.

The Hollins.

Parties staying at Grasmere or the Swan, should visit Easedale, a recess of Grasmere. It contains a lonely tarn, surrounded by lofty rocks.

"Who does not know the fam- 113 ous Swan ?"

A mile beyond the inn, a mountain road strikes off into Patterdale, climbing on the way a steep haws between Fair Field and Seat Sandal, and passing a desolate sheet of water, called Grisedale Tarn, lying between Seat Sandal, and Helvellyn.

Along the margin of GRASMERE LAKE.

Town End.

Road on the left to Grasmere village, a sweet little place, near which is Allan Bank, Thomas Dawson, Esq., and the Cottage, Orrell, Esq.

Swan Inn, The ascent of Helvellyn is not unusually commenced here.

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Loughrigg Fell bounds the vale upon the left.

Through the meadows on the left, the Rothay flows. A tall straight oak, growing in the wall, is called "Lord's Oak."

Pelter Bridge. The road over it divides into two on the other side, one leads back to Ambleside, the other to Grasmere, both extremely beautiful walks. 1 Loughrigg Fell here projects, and with a corresponding protrusion from Fairfield, called Rydal Knab, on the opposite side of the valley, leaves room for little more space than what is occupied by the road and the stream flowing from Rydal Mere.

This lake is only about threequarters of a mile long, by scarcely a fourth of a mile broad. It has two small islands, upon one of which there is a heronry, belonging to Lady le Fleming, the owner of the lake.

The road here winds round a projecting rock. Grasmere Lake suddenly breaks upon the view beyond the projection.

This lake is one mile and a quarter in length, and one-third of a mile broad. It has a single island in the centre. The hills 3 around are happily disposed.

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The view from the road near the head of the lake, looking forward, is extremely fine. Silver How is seen over the southwest angle of the water; right onward, is Helm Crag, the summit of which is strewn with large blocks of stone, presenting many eccentric forms. Green thought he saw a likeness to a lion and a lamb. West, to a mass of antediluvian remains, and Otley says, that viewed from Dunmail Raise, a mortar elevated for throwing shells into the valley, is no unapt comparison. The road is seen to pass over Dunmail Raise, a depression between two hills, that on the left, is Steel Fell, the other, Seat Sandal.

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