STOCKTON-UPON-TEES,-DURHAM.

Stockton-upon-Tees is a handsome market-town, situated near the confluence of the Tees with the German Ocean, at the distance of twenty miles south-south-east from Durham.

The early history of this town is involved in considerable obscurity. A castle formerly existed here, but whether the site of this edifice was ever occupied by the Romans, is doubtful; a small coin of Claudius Cæsar, who invaded Britain about the year 44, being the only testimony to support the conjecture. Stockton formed part of the possessions annexed to the see of Durham, and contributed to extend the jurisdiction of the bishop from the river Tyne to the Tees. Several of the prelates had residences in the town; and many of its privileges and immunities were directly or indirectly conferred by them. So early as 1310, Bishop Bek granted a charter for holding a market and fair, which was afterwards renewed in the 44th of Elizabeth.

In 1597, the town was partly consumed by fire; and in the reign of Edward II., according to ancient record, it was destroyed by the Scots. "The castle did not fall a sacrifice to the ravages of time, but to the distracted state of the kingdom during the common-wealth; the order of parliament for the sale of the bishop's lands, brought it into the hands of private persons, who appear to have demolished it for the sale of materials, with which some of the stone houses in the town are said to have been built." Subsequent to the great rebellion, a large extent of common and undivided lands were enclosed, and a spirit of improvement created in the town, which led to an extension of trade and an increase of the population.

This town is corporate by prescription, such as London and many other places," which have existed as corporations from time whereof the memory of man runneth not to the contrary; and therefore are looked upon in law to be well created." It is under the authority of a mayor, recorder, and a court of aldermen. As a commercial station, Stockton enjoys great advantages, and its trade with Holland and the ports of the Baltic is considerable. "At the Reformation, it was a village so despicable that the best house in it could scarcely boast of any thing better than clay walls and a thatched roof; and yet, near fifty years ago, there came in one year to the port of London, as appears from the Customhouse books, seventy-five vessels from thence ;" and the trade has been progressively increasing ever since. Considerable quantities of salt provisions, corn, flour, lead, allum, &c. are sent coast-wise to London; and large supplies of hams, pork, and leather are shipped at this port for the metropolitan market. The fisheries in the Tees river are very productive, particularly that of salmon, which is protected by an act passed in the first year of George I. "The commerce of Stockton has been materially increased and facilitated by the formation of a cut, or canal, two hundred and twenty yards long, at Portrack, a little below the town, across a narrow neck of land, by which a circuit of almost three

miles is saved in the navigation of the river; and ships can now cross the bar, and come up to the quays, in one tide."

In 1767, a navigable canal was projected, to pass from Stockton to the extensive inland collieries of Etherly and Witton Park; but, for reasons not explained, the undertaking was abandoned. The desired communication has, however, been effected by a rail-way, or tram-road, extending a considerable distance, and having several branches to Yarm and other places. The original work was completed in 1825, under the authority of an act of parliament, and is the joint property of a number of shareholders. Coaches, drawn by horses, travel daily over this road, from Stockton to Darlington, at the rate of about nine miles an hour. Locomotive engines are employed for the transit of coal, lime, lead, &c.; and other engines are stationed on the line, to assist the loaded waggons in their passage across the elevated portions of the road. The utility of this communication is evidenced by the number of carriages which are constantly traversing it, laden with passengers and merchandise.

The public buildings and institutions in Stockton are too numerous for particular mention in this brief sketch. The town-hall is a handsome and commodious structure, standing in the centre of High-street, and presenting a noble façade towards the north. The parochial church is a handsome-built edifice, which was consecrated to divine uses in 1712. The Custom-house, situated on the quay, at the foot of Finkle-street, was erected by the corporation in 1730, on the site of the old one, then in a ruinous and decayed condition. The exterior presents nothing remarkable, but the interior arrange ments are commodious and judicious.

Annual races are held on the Carrs, on the Yorkshire side of the Tees, commencing the Thursday in the first week after York August Meeting. The race-course, with its attendant "pomp and circumstance," is shewn in the illustrative View: the church tower, and the light and beautiful spire of the town-hall, are also seen rising above the surrounding mass of buildings.

RYDAL WATER,-WESTMORLAND.

The small lake of Rydal Water lies within the valley of Grasmere, at the distance of two miles north-west from Ambleside. The spirit of repose that broods over it, and the luxuriance of its borders, give a pleasing relief to the stern grandeur and barrenness of the neighbouring mountains. It scarcely exceeds a mile in length, and the water is apparently shallow. Two small islands rise above the surface of the lake; on one of which a heronry has been established. A few ancient trees decorate its banks on one side, and the other is skirted by hoary rocks, with woods vegetating from their fissures. Rydal Water has an outlet in the Rothay river, which, after a course of two miles, enters the lake of Windermere. On the right of our view is Ivy Cottage, the beautiful and romantic residence of the Rev. Samuel Tilbrook, D.D.

At a short distance north-east from the lake, stands Rydal Hall, the seat of the Fleming family. It is situated on a gentle eminence, at the junction of two valleys, and is sheltered by waving woods, which cover the surrounding heights. In the rear of the Hall, is the mountain of Rydal Head, covered with a soft herbage, occasionally relieved by rugged masses of rock. The ascent to this hill is laborious and difficult, but the prospect thence obtained is an ample compensation for the toil. Hence are seen Grasmere and Rydal Water, extending like beautiful mirrors far beneath the feet; the eye looks down upon them almost perpendicularly, and every creek and bay in the line of shore is distinctly perceptible.

Rydal Water is the property of the Flemings of Rydal Hall.

ULLSWATER, SECOND REACH,-WESTMORLAND.

The Second Reach of Ullswater presents a scene of natural grandeur and sublimity that can scarcely be exceeded; and when beheld, as our artist has shewn it, under a moon-light effect, it affords objects for contemplation, on which the eye rests with astonishment, and the mind with awful and devotional feeling. This reach of the lake extends about four miles in length, and lies between the lofty and precipitous acclivities of Hallan-fell, Birk-fell, and Place-fell on the south, and the undulating copse of Gowbarrow Park on the north. "The characteristics of the left shore are grandeur and immensity; its cliffs are vast and broken, and rise immediately from the stream, and often shoot their masses over it." Among the fells enclosing this shore, are Holling-fell, and Swarth-fell," shewing huge walls of naked rocks, and scars which many torrents have inflicted." The mighty Helvellyn, scowling over all, adds dignity to this alpine

solitude.

says,

Referring to the scenery in the neighbourhood of the second reach, Mr. Hutchinson "We now doubled a woody promontory, and passing by the foot of Gowbarrow Park, ascended into the narrow part of the lake, leaving the grassy margins and scattered copse, which had bordered the water as we passed by Water Mellock. All around was one scene of mountains, which hemmed us in, arising with awful and precipitate fronts. Here the white cliffs raised their pointed heads; there the shaken and rifted rocks were split and cavated into vast shelves, chasms, and dreary cells, which yawned upon the shadowed lake; while other steeps, less rugged, were decked with shrubs, which grew on every plain and chink, their summits being embrowned with sun-parched moss and scanty herbage.

"Gowbarrow Park," Mr. Baines remarks, "is far more interesting, and more accordant to the rest of the scenery, with its neglected woods, its aged oaks and thorns, and its rough carpet of grass and fern, than if all the elegance of art had been lavished upon it.