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1830.]
Church of Teffont Ewyas, Wilts.

105 MR. URBAN,

Aug. 12. presents H. Ley, Esq. in black armour, S you have of late favoured us his head resting on a cushion, and

his feet on a lion couchant. The other Churches in and near the Metropolis, two figures represent his sons WilI hope you will oblige me by inserting liam and Matthew, also habited in a view of the Church ofTeffont Ewyas, armour, with trunk hose and large co. Wilts (see Pl: 1.), one which for ruffs round their necks. All three external neatness and internal beauty have been painted, but the legs of all is superior to most of the Churches in are broken. the West of England. This church Above this monument, but forming has lately been rebuilt, and ihe tower a part of it, are the arms of Ley, viz. added, chiefly by the exertions of J. T.

Argent, a chevron between three Mayne, Esq.F.R.S. F.S.A. the lord of wolves' heads caboshed Sable, langued the manor and patron of the Church, Gules; impaling, Argent, two chevrons aided by the contributions of his friends. Sable, a label in chief Vert.

Since the engraving was made, Mr. Beneath, on a tablet of black marble, Mayne has continued to improve the is the following inscription : beauty of the Church, by raising the Chancel to' within a few feet of the

“ D.O.M.S. Hic requiescunt in morte

Henrici LEY, Arm. reliquiæ, qui ex veteri height of the nave, and by adding three

LEYORUM prosapiâ in agro Devon oriundus, open quatrefoils between each pinnacle

è Dyonisia de St. Mayne, conjuge, numeroof the tower; and Mr. Mayne has in

sam dignioris sexus suscepit propaginem, contemplation to add also a spire. viz. WillieLMUM et MATTHEUM (quorum

Teffont Ewyas is in the Hundred of hìc visuntur imagines, et subter sita sunt Dunwortb, co. Wilis. . . The parish ossa), Johannem, Henricum, Petrum, atconsists of about 700 acres, and is si- que insuper Jacobum, Malbrigi Comitem, tuated in a pleasant retired valley, near Angliæ Thesaurárium. Obiit a natá salute the turnpike roail.from Hindon to Sa. M.D.LXXIII. Junii vii." lisbury, from which city it is distant At the West end of this monument, nine miles.

beneath the heads of the two lower The freestone quarries at the verge figures, on black marble tablets, are of this parish, supplied in a great mea- these inscriptions : sure the stone for Salisbury Cathedral,

“ Willielmus Ley, Arm. octogenario more than thirty acres of land having major et cælebs, cælos adiit, æræ Christ. been excavated for that purpose, and

M.DC.xxiii. April v." these same quarries have supplied the stone for the late rebuilding of Teffont

“ Matth. Ley, Ar., vir plenus virtutum Ewyas Church.

et dierum, placide animam Deo reddidit Maü

XXIIII. M.DC.Xxxii, ætat' suæ LXXXVII." The additional name of Ewyas- was derived from a former possessor, who

Between these inscriptions, on an enjoyed also the barony of Ewyas in oral shield, are the arms of Ley, surHerefordshire. The distinguished fa- mounted by a helmet, the crest broken milies of Tregoż and Hussey were

off. successively lords of this parishi With

On the South side of the monument an heiress of the Husseys the manor are three oval shields, the first displaypassed to Sir Thomas Hungerford, the ing the arms of Ley, the other defaced. first appointed Speaker of the House In the time of Charles 11. the manor or Commons.

of Teffont Ewyas was in possession of In 1545 the Crown' granted the the Ash family; they sold it in 1679 manor to H. Ley, Esq. father of James to Christopher Mayne, Esq. ancestor Ley, Earlof Marlborough, Chief Justice of the present possessor. of the King's Bench, and Lord High Of the family of Mayne, a full acTreasurer of England. The Earl died count and pedigree may be seen in Sir at Lincoln's Ion 1628, and was buried R. C. Hoare's History of Dunworth at Westbury, Wilts, where a stately Hundred, pp. 111, 112. The lives of monument was erected to his meniory: two eminent ecclesiastics of this family,

In the Chancel of Tefont Ewyas is Dr. Jasper Mayne, and Alexander an altar imonument, on which are Mayne, are recorded by Wood in his three male figures, in recumbent posa' Athena Oxonienses. tures.' That nearest the wall is ele- Iu the sepulchral vault at Teffont is vated, above the other two, and re- a handsome cenotaph, erected by IsaGENT. Mag. August, 1830.

bella, the last Countess of Dundonald,

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106 Walk through the Highlands.--Island of Staffa. [Aug.
only daughter of Samuel Raymond, of one foot, the portion of rock not being
Belchamp Hall, co. Essex, io the me- the widih of a shoe-sole, aud bere,
mory of her first husband, Johu Mayne, unless supported by the boalmen, who
Esq. of the Temple, barrister at law, know the path well, and creep down
who died anno 1785, and to the me. below, there would I couceive be an
mory of the Mompesson, Waldron, absolute necessity for retreating.
and Batt families, successively inter- The nails of our shoes, from our
married, and who with his kindred now extended peregrinations, had been
and relations were buried underneath. worn completely smooth, and we felt

There are also three other mouu- our footing very unstable. One false ments to the family of Mayne, the in- step would have precipitated us over scriptions on which will be found in sharp and rugged rocks into the sea, Sir R. C. Hoare's “ History of Dun- roaring at a great depth below. A worth Hundred.”

N. R. S.

person whose nerves were not tolera

bly well strung, would feel himself in WALK THROUGH THE HIGHLANDS.

a very unpleasant situation, and, upon

the whole, I think the way is not with(Continued from Part i. p. 604.)

out danger to those eren of the coolest Ehad now made considerable way temperament. Certainly it was a path

towards the island of Staffa, the I should not like to tread a second object of our voyage, when we first time; and this same step before mendiscorered a very handsome and gal. tioned has I understand deterred not a lant wherry advancing majestically few from encountering it once. Awith all sail towards the same destina- mongst the rest our boatmen informed tion. We rejoiced in the prospect of us that the Duke of Argyle, on a late company, with whom, as the day was visit, chose rather to swim into the pow delightfully fine, we might explore caveru, in which exploit he was acthe cavern with advantage. We were companied by Staffa, the proprietor of considerably ahead, and landed first.

the island. For my own part,

1

was not This process was extremely trouble. sorry when I once more saw the light some, for though the boat was drawn of day on the outside of the cavern. well up to the shore, yet the way was We remained a considerable time in rough and difficult, lying over the absolute astonishment, under the imbroken and very uneven columus of posing roof of this stupendous edifice, basalt, lately washed by the waves, built without hands, and in which the covered over with slime and sea weed, sound of the hammer had never been and extremely slippery:. We were heard. The entrance is spacious, moreover benumbed with cold, and broad, and lofty. The sides and roof far from having the perfect use of ei- are composed of the basaltic pillars ther our hands or feet, which were before named, ranged in the nicest also cramped from our long confine- order. Below is the sea,--at the time ment in the boat. Our advances there- we were there of the most beautiful fore were slow and awkward; but the green ; the sides and further end of the road, as we ascended from the sea, be- cavern edged with foam. Altogether came less slippery, and, with the as- the appearance is wonderfully impossistance of our guides, we speedily ar- ing; something of a superstitious dread rived at the Cavern.

creeps over the beholder, and the cave The swell and the surf were on this itself appears occasion so violent, that there was no

és awful as the consecrated roof, possibility of entering the cave in the Re-echoing pious anthems." boat. We had, therefore, with the Looking outwards, you have a very aid of our boatmen, who were ex- extensive and most magnificent view tremely careful and adroit, to penetrate of the surrounding ocean, whose waves to the end of the cavern on foot. by their sullen roar delight and elevate

We had scarcely entered its mouth, the mind, and force it to look up with ere it required the utmost care and wonder at the works of the great Arconsiderable coolness to advance. The chitect of all things. The most indifledge of rock which supported our ferent observer must I think be stricken steps was extremely rugged, and some- with the moving scenes around him, times slippery ; in some places fright- and go forth from their contemplation fully narrow, and with but a very mo- humbled and subdued. Finally, the derate portion of light. In one parti- magnificence which here meets the Lolar part there is scarcely room for eye, and of which I find myself alto

1

1830.] Walk through the Highlands.- Island of Staffu. 107 gether unable to give any adequate strong expression of melancholy, and idea, is not to be conceived by indi. his grey locks waved in the blast. We viduals who have not themselves visit- were sorry to see him quit his elevaed the spot; in attempting to delineate tion, and descend to the level of more it, both the pen and 'the pencil abso- humble mortals. lutely fail, and I can only say that if During this time I had entered into we had no other sights to boast of, all conversation with the other Laird of our privations and fatigues would have the party, who, plain in his manners been far more than repaid by ten mi- and appearance, yet deported himself nutes contemplation of the wonders towards us with the utmost politeness. that present themselves in this dwell- In the first place he informed us that ing of the mighty Fingal—the stupen- his party had observed us in the squall, dous cavern of Staffa.

from which they were perfectly free, and The island itself is by no means had thought our situation extremely peJarge; it is just such a one as a man rilous. Accordingly he congratulated might" carry home in his pocket, and us most heartily on our escape. He was give his son for an apple,” yet it con- anxious to know what we thought of tains several other caverns, magnificent this boast of bis country, and appeared indeed, but all yielding in this respect much pleased with our unfeigned exto the boast of the island above de- pressions of delight. Shortly after this scribed. The pillars on the outside of ihe gun was fired, the sound reverbethe cavern are also wonderfully strike rated magnificently through the rocks, ing, seated on which, while the Sun and as it died away the piper comwas now bright and warm, we enjoyed menced a pibruck. The effect allogesurprisingly the scenery around us- ther was very pleasing; our remote the golden waves, the skies without a situation,- the stupendous pillars cloud.

the Highlanders with their appropriate Before leaving the cavern the sailors dresses and music, - forcibly struck requested we would inscribe our names the imagination, and we almost fanon its walls. This we altempted 10 cied ourselves, by some magic spell, do, though our station was far from carried far back into the days of other appearing pleasantly secure, and though years. the waves were roaring in all their ap- When this ceremony was over, we palling majesty beneath us. Our friends were eager to depart; for the day wore, eagerly watching every motion of the and we had yet io travel a considerable pen-knife, appeared wonderfully de- distance over the expanse of waters. lighted with the operation, and shout. We therefore bad adieu to our Highed out the letters as soon as they were landers, and about two o'clock reembodied.

sumed our seats in the boat. The day When this business was accomplish. continued beautifully fine, and we ed, we emerged, nothing loth, into the looked forward with pleasure to the open day, and observed the crew now remainder of our voyage.. The swell landed from the wherry approaching was considerable, but it imparted to cautiously over the rocks. They join- our boat no unpleasant motion, and ed us, and we discovered that they once more the waves foamed before were two Lairds, with some friends our dark prow, and we bounded lightly from England a gamekeeper with a over the world of waters.

Soon we gun to fire in the cave, and a piper in brought to under the consecrated chores proper costume, to make it resound to of lona. his music. One of these gentlemen, At first landing we were beset by of a most venerable appearance, with crowds of half-naked children, clamolong grey hair, was clad in the true rously requesting us to purchase some fashion of his country, in the bonnet of their Iona pebbles, which are of and kilt. With a long staff in his little value, but sometimes set in small hand, he placed himself imposingly in seals or brooches. As soon as we had a nitch of the island, of considerable divested ourselves of these imps, we elevation, and in this his lofty station, travelled on, under the direction of our stood forih as the genius of the place. boatmen, towards the venerable ruins, His appearance was most striking, and forming the chief or indeed only ornathough I conclude he had an eye to ef- ments of the island. fect, yet his every action appeared al- The way to these ancient piles was together void of affectation." His form neglected and swampy, the little path was manly, yet his countenance had a discoverable nearly overgrown with

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108

Walk through the Highlands.-lona. [Aug. weeds, or bid under heaps of loose wishing to conceal, not unfrequently stones and rubbish, and the very cha- confessing, pel itself appeared to have afforded a “I know not how the truth may be, shelter to the beasts which perish. It I tell it to you as 'twas said to me.” seemed also to have suffered profana- True or false we felt grateful to him tion from the scarcely less grovelling for the recital. Jords of the creation. We strolled from our guides, who

Leaving the sacred roof of St. Oran, found occupation amongst iheir friends

we returned once more into the open

air, and found ourselves amongst the the islanders, and wandered as chance led under the shade of these conse

tombs of Kings,-several of Scottish, crated arches. Our meditations there,

some of Norwegian and Irish, and though sombre, were far from unplea

one of French extraction. “Under this sant, and we would willingly have

grave (continued Lamont) rests the spent a much longer time ihan we

once powerful chieftain M.Query, the now possibly could do, in the indulg. tomb ornamented by his broad clayence of them. This little island, echo

more and shield. This (said he) is the ing to the waves of the Atlantic, so re

tomb of Macdonald, Lord of the Isles, mote, and of such antiquity, necessarily and many a brave spoil did he bring

home in that ship! At his interment inspires a soothing melancholy, and, though I had been astonished at the

were slaughtered 300 Scotch cows, and wonders of Staffa, I think I experi- far from this place he pointed out to us

his friends feasted over his grave.” Not enced far more pleasing emotions a

St. Martin's Cross, plain but renerable, mongst the ruins of lona. Under the direction of one of the

and informed us that several others had principal inhabitants of the island, of of which had remained entire till with

once stood in its neighbourhood, some ihe name of Lamont, we re-visited the different ruins in regular order. And

in a very few years. first we came to the Chapel of St. Oran,

In the College Court is some curious one of the earliest dwellers in lona carving, such as might be expected

from the times in which it was exewhose name is handed down in bis

cuted. tory. Lamont related to us, at consi

Amongst other figures were derable length, and in exceeding good

those of Adam and Eve, and one still language, his tragical end,-how he

more grotesque of Satan and an Archwas buried alive, and the Church de- angel. The latter is represented weighdicated to him; with divers other cir. ing the soul of a sinner, for which ihe

Arch-fiend is waiting apparently with cumstances, exceedingly interesting, but too well known to need repetition.

the utmost impatience. In this Chapel, I think, though the

Several other objects of curiosity did inside has been long exposed to the

our guide point out to us, but our time blasts of Heaven, as well as the

was so short, and our boatmen so im

profanation of the people, several tombs patient, that we were unable to give

ihem that attention which they so remain entire, as does also the font for holy water. On these tombs are carv

well merited. My narration even of ed, and not inelegantly, the figures at

the most striking is necessarily very full length of the heroes who sleep be imperfect: neath, with their various bearings and

“ for my recollection falters, devices. The inscriptions too, in many

And, like a waxen image 'gainst a fire, of them, are distinci, but of so ancient

Bears no impression of the thing it was." a character, that a modern traveller I regret exceedingly the very limited finds himself puzzled to decypher time we were enabled to spend on them. We attempted to do this, and Iona, for never did the contemplation were greatly assisted by Lamont, who of any other spot, however interesting, appeared to have a tolerable know. afford the greater satisfaction. ledge of the Latin language, in which Lamont accompanied us to the wathey were composed. He had read ter's edge, and took leave of us with much on the subject, and was equally the greatest politeness; and after, at learned in tradition. He gave us the his desire, presenting him with our names of the heroes in the most please cards, we gave bim a hearty shake of ing and unaffected manner, with inany the hand, which, as we were stepping interesting though probably fabulous into the boat, he returned with much particulars relating to their fate-veris cordiality, and we parted mutually miscens falsa. This he was far from pleased. The offering our hands seem

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