as they are usually but little disposed to adapt themselves to strange customs, have no facility in acquiring foreign languages, and are more annoyed by hardships and rough living than their masters. Indeed, it is not only troublesome and expensive, but entirely useless in a journey through Greece, to take any attendants in addition to the travelling servants of the country. Those who may have them in their suite would do well to leave them at Corfu or Athens during the journey.

As we have already seen, the mode of travelling in the interior of Greece and of European Turkey is on horseback, the distances being calculated by an hour's march of a caravan, according to the custom established among all Eastern nations. One "hour" is, on an average, equivalent to about 3 English miles; though, in level parts of the country, and with good horses, the traveller may ride much faster. With the same horses, the usual rate of progress does not exceed from 20 to 25 miles a-day that is, from 7 to 8 hours; though, with the menzil, or post-horses of Turkey, 60 or 80 miles a day may be accomplished, by changing at stages varying from 15 to 20 miles from each other. In all probability, many years will elapse before any other mode of travelling is generally practicable in Greece proper; though excellent carriage-roads have been made in all the Ionian Islands since they came under the British protectorate. Orders and plans, it is true, have been frequently issued by the Greek Government for the formation of roads in various directions, but, in consequence of the scantiness of the population, and the ill-judged expenditure of the public revenue, little has hitherto been effected; and, as the labourer in Greece gains more by the cultivation of his lands than the wages offered by Government, it would be difficult to induce him to quit his fields and commence road-making. From the peculiarities of the country in this respect, a traveller may always go from one place to another in any direction he may fancy; so that, with the exception of the great lines from town to town, it is almost useless to trace out routes very minutely. Indeed, such a task would be endless, and, from the local changes which are constantly occurring, the only valuable information respecting lodging, &c., in the country villages must, generally speaking, be obtained on the spot.

The only Roads practicable for carriages in Greece proper are that from the Piraeus to Athens, that from Athens to Thebes-passing through Eleusis and a gorge of Mount Kitharon, that from Eleusis to Megara, that from Argos to Nauplia, and a few others for a short distance round Athens. A new road is traced out from Argos to Tripolitza, and another from Thebes to Lebadea; but the traveller had better ascertain their actual condition before he ventures on either in a carriage. The road across the Isthmus of Corinth was made by the Austrian Lloyd's Company for the transit of their passengers. Many other roads, it is true, are talked and written of, but they are not as yet even surveyed. The old road from Nauplia to Tripolitza is no longer practicable for carriages. The carriage-road from Athens to the foot of Pentelicus was constructed for the transport of marble from the quarries. The paved causeways in various parts of Greece are the work of the Venetians or Turks.

Horses are found in abundance in the large towns. They should be engaged from one town to another, in order to avoid delay and the uncertainty of meeting with them in the villages. They in general perform the journeys easily, and are very sure-footed. The hire of the horses may be regulated at so much per day, or for the journey from one town to another. The first is the best plan to be adopted by those who wish thoroughly to explore the country. The latter is to be preferred for those who are obliged to reach a given place at a certain time.

The price for horse-hire varies according to the demand from 4 drachmas

(28. 8d.) per day to 5 drachmas (3s. 6d.), which is the usual price in travelling, though more is generally demanded. At Athens, however, the usual price for a horse per day for excursions in the vicinity is 6 drachmas (48. 4d.). It is in general not necessary to pay more than half-price for the horses on days when the traveller is stationary, as well as for their journey home; for it must be observed that the number of days will be reckoned that they will require to return from the place where they are dismissed to that whence they were taken. The price for hire of mules is about the same as that for horses. It is an error to suppose that they are more sure-footed in mountainous districts than horses. In crossing a river on a warm day, the rider should be always on his guard against the trick that mules have of lying down in the middle of the water, so suddenly as to give him no time to save himself from being drenched.

The feeding of the horses is provided for by the proprietor, who sends a sufficient number of attendants to take care of them. These men will be found useful, not only as guides, but also in procuring lodgings in private houses in the villages where the traveller halts. It is usual to make them some present at the end of their engagement. A written agreement with the proprietors of the horses is the most prudent course to adopt.

To proceed with comfort on his journey the traveller should have an English saddle, as the saddles of the country will be found uncomfortable. He should also be provided with a saddle-cloth an inch or two in thickness, in order, if possible, to save the horse's back from being galled. The Greek peasant, in general, objects to the use of the English saddle, the pressure of which, from the wretched condition of the horses, is almost sure to injure their backs. In order to obviate this difficulty, two large pieces of cloth should be sewn together and stuffed with a quantity of curled hair, wool, or cotton, whichever can be most easily procured. When this is done with care, the pressure will be removed, and the Greek will cease to offer any objection to the English saddle.

The necessary preparations for travelling in Greece have been specified (c). Persons provided with all the requisites may commence their tour from any point; but they will find the horses indifferent everywhere except at Athens; and often, as at harvest time, they will experience difficulty in procuring any at all. The traveller should make Athens his head-quarters, and engage one of the regular travelling servants, long established there. These men can supply canteen, beds, linen, anti-vermin nets, English saddles, and, in general, everything requisite for making a tour comfortable, as well as good horses, which are perhaps more important than all the rest. The arrangement which has been found most satisfactory is that of agreeing with one of these travelling servants for a fixed price, which is to include every expense, at a certain sum per day for each person. The price varies according to the number of persons, the length of the journey, the number of articles supplied, and whether porter or foreign wines are required. A party of not less than three persons may be supplied with canteen, provisions, and, in fact, with every requisite, including horses, and the services of the travelling servant and horseboys, for about 30 drachmas per day each, or about 11. per head, if the party consist of 2 or 3 persons, and 26s. for one person, if alone.

This sort of arrangement has generally proved agreeable and advantageous. Under the head of Athens (Rte. 2), are given the names of one or two couriers; others will be found at all the hotels. Travellers should leave the arrangement of their journey to the courier, merely mentioning the day and hour when they wish to start, and the places they intend to visit; they have then nothing to pay, and need have no bargaining or disputing during the whole tour, as the original agreement includes every

possible expense, except the occasional hire of boats and carriages. Travellers who employ these men must not expect antiquarian knowledge from them, but must trust to books for all information except the sites and modern names of the most interesting localities. Their chief merit is, that they enable a stranger to travel with a degree of ease and comfort which it would scarcely be possible to obtain by any other means.

A traveller who may be possessed of a moderate colloquial acquaintance with the language spoken in Greece, or who may have in his service a native of the country, may in his excursions dispense with the presence of a professional dragoman, and make his arrangements from day to day, as he would in any other country.

One who may have studied ancient Greek, and who will give attention to the rules for pronunciation given later under the head of "Observations on the Modern Greek Language," will not, after a short time spent in Hellas, find any very great difficulty in making himself understood by the people of the country. He should bear in mind that modern Hellenic scholars have been, and are, endeavouring to raise, as far as possible, the language of their kingdom to the standard of ancient Greek. He should remember, too, that many persons in England and elsewhere are bent upon causing the pronunciation of Greek at our schools and universities to be, within certain limits, adapted to that of the same language where it has been spoken during so many centuries, and that in consequence the difficulty to an English university man in making himself understood in Greece is likely day by day to be lessened. Travellers need have no hesitation in endeavouring to make themselves understood in the language of the country. Hellenes will at any rate endeavour to understand what may be said to them, and are flattered by any one speaking their language.

The wages of a valet-de-place are 6 drachmas a-day, whether travelling or stationary; and half-price is paid for both man and horses for their return to Athens from any place at which they may be left. The arrangement, however, of one charge to cover everything, if made with a really good servant, is the cheapest and most agreeable; and for this reason the traveller, if he engages one at all, should endeavour to secure one of the best at Athens, even at some temporary inconvenience. As a general rule, he should bear in mind that the unavoidable discomfort of travelling in Greece is so great, that it is desirable to have as few unnecessary sources of it as possible. It will, therefore, be his best plan to go straight to Athens before making a start, and there look about for a travelling servant, who can ensure him a certain amount of comforts during his tour. It is also to be remembered that, in a country where there are but few roads or inns to make one route preferable to another, people should make themselves acquainted from books with the places which most interest them, and be directed mainly by this consideration in the line they take.

Next to Greek, Italian will be found to be the most useful language throughout the Levant. French, however, is more spoken in society at Athens, Constantinople, and in the large towns. In the interior of Greece both French and Italian are unknown; hence, unless the traveller is to some extent master of modern Greek (and, in northern Albania, of Albanian also), it is indispensable to take an interpreter, even on the shortest excursion.

No one should ever insist on proceeding on his journey in mountainous districts in opposition to the warning of his guide. Many a traveller has been caught in storms, unable to find shelter, and exposed to much difficulty and even danger, from obstinately persisting to proceed when warned by his guide to desist. One should also bear in mind that danger from

brigands is chiefly, if not solely, to be apprehended in hilly districts, or in the vicinity of mountains.

No scholar in Greece should be without Pausanias, that Herodotus of topographers, Colonel Leake's works, and Dr. Smith's 'Dictionary of Ancient Geography,' which embodies so admirably the results of all preceding investigations and travels. There was no good map till the survey of the French Scientific Commission (1832). Aldenhoven's map, published in 1838, is, in a great measure, based upon this survey, as regards the Peloponnesus and part of Attica, to which alone the survey extended. It is on a large scale, with the names in Greek and French. Wilberg, a German bookseller at Athens (street of Hermes), has since published a small map, which is tolerably accurate and convenient. It costs 6 francs. He also sells the best map of Ancient Greece-that of Kiepert (Berlin); and his map of Modern Greece (4 francs).

g. SHOOTING; FIRE-ARMS; ANIMAL AND VEGETABLE PRODUCTIONS, &c. There are several good seasons for shooting in Greece. In April and May the turtles and quails arrive in their annual migration northward from Africa, returning southward at the close of summer. In some of the islands, and on parts of the coast, quails may be killed in vast numbers at these seasons. In Laconia, especially, they are salted by the inhabitants for winter consumption. In September and October, red-legged partridges afford excellent sport in all parts of the Levant, and particularly in some of the islands of the Egean Sea. In November, December, January, and February, there is an abundance of woodcocks and wild-fowl of all kinds, from pelicans to jacksnipes. Pheasants are to be found in Etolia near Mesolonghi, in Macedonia, near Salonica, in Albania near Alessio, and elsewhere; flocks of bustards are often seen in Boeotia, Thessaly, Argolis, and other level parts of Greece. Indeed, one of the many attractions of a journey in Greece is the variety of birds unknown, or seldom seen, in England. In the interior, the horizon is rarely without eagles, vultures, or other large birds of prey, circling majestically in the air; while rollers spread their brilliant wings to the sun by the side of the path; bearcoots and orioles flit through the trees above one; gay hoopoes strut along, opening and shutting their fan-like crests; and now and then a graceful snow-white egret stalks slowly by. An almost endless variety of waterfowl haunts the lakes and rivers. In the Turkish provinces, storks annually resort to breed in all the towns and villages; but they have generally disappeared from the kingdom of Greece, so much so that the Ottomans entertain a superstition that these birds follow the declining fortunes of Islam. The truth is, that the Christians often kill or annoy them ; whereas the Moslems, though often reckless of the life of man, are very tender-hearted towards all other animals.

The wolf, jackal, lynx, fox, wild-boar, wild-goat, red-deer, fallow-deer, roe, &c., inhabit the wilder and more inaccessible parts of Greece and Turkey; bears are still sometimes met with on the higher mountainranges. Hares are numerous, both on the mainland and in the islands. Seals, porpoises, and dolphins frequent the coasts. So many Greek rivers are merely mountain torrents, dried up at certain seasons, that there is not much inland fishing; but large and delicate eels are found in the Copaic lake; and mullet, tunny, and other fish, abound in the Greek seas and lagoons: leeches are plentiful in many places, and form an article of export. There is excellent trout fishing in some of the rivers and lakes of Albania. Tortoises abound everywhere; poisonous vipers and serpents infest certain localities. The insect tribes of Greece

include several Asiatic and African, as well as European species. The vegetable products are, for the most part, similar to those of Southern Italy. The country may, in this respect, be considered as divided into 4 zones or regions, according to its elevation. The first zone, reaching to 1500 feet above the sea-level, produces vines, figs, olives, dates, oranges, and other tropical fruit, as well as cotton, indigo, tobacco, &c.; and abounds in evergreens, as the cypress, bay, myrtle, arbutus, oleander, and a multitude of aromatic herbs and plants. The second zone extends from 1500 to 3500 feet perpendicular, and is the region of oak, chestnut, and other English forest-trees. The third zone reaches the height of 5500 feet, and is the region of beech and pine. The fourth, or Alpine zone, including all the surface above 5500 feet in height, yields only a few wild plants. In Walpole's 'Memoirs of Turkey' will be found a very complete account of Greek plants by Dr. Sibthorp, author of the 'Flora Græca.' Acarnania, Elis, Messenia, and the western parts of Greece generally, are the most richly wooded; the eastern provinces and the Egean Islands, except Euboea, are mostly bare.

So many Englishmen visit Greece and the Ionian Isles every winter for the purpose of shooting, that it is necessary to point out some of the best stations where they may combine good sport with safe harbours for their yachts. Such directions will be found under the heads of 'Corfu,' 'Santa Maura,' and 'Ithaca,' with regard to the coasts of Albania and Acarnania. Corfu is, on the whole, the best head-quarters for a shooting party. Here supplies of all sorts are to be procured, and the best information about all kinds of game in Albania. Farther south, there is capital wild-fowl shooting on the lagoons of Mesolonghi, and excellent cockshooting in the woods near Patras. Recommendations had better be obtained from the English Consul at Patras to some of the native proprietors, who will provide beaters, &c. In these countries every one may follow his game unmolested, if he avoids doing mischief to the vines or crops. But in Greece it is necessary to have a certificate to legalize the possession of fire-arms, whether for sport or for self-defence. The traveller had better procure this from the local authorities of the first town he visits. The fee amounts to only a few shillings, and he is liable to arrest and fine, and to have his arms taken from him by the police, if he be without it.

h. YACHTS, BOATS, &c.

The number of Englishmen who visit Greece and the Levant in their own yachts is considerable. Moreover, a facility exists of visiting a great portion of the country, and making excursions to the islands, by the boats which may be hired at most of the sea-ports, either by the day, week, or month, according as may be required. The price of boat-hire varies according to the size of the boat. A good-sized boat, which will accommodate two persons and their attendants, may be engaged for 3 dollars a day, though often much more is charged. It is always better to have a written contract with the captain, stipulating that the contractor is to have the absolute command of the vessel, and prohibiting the crew from entering any port whatsoever, carrying on any trade, or putting anything on board, without permission. If this be not done, delays will ensue from the captain's running into all the small ports, and endeavouring to prolong the voyage, especially if the engagement be by the day.

The traveller in Greece in the summer months will find it well to establish himself in a boat for a month or two, and sail round the