Surrey, together also with others forame liberties, namely, the libertie of lady Elizabeth Pircain, of the hundred of Wargrave; the libertie of Sir Henrie Nevill, of his hundred of Wargrave; the libertie of the manor of Bentlisham, within Barkshire; the libertie of Andrew Windesore, Esq. of his manor of Faton; the libertie of Sir Edward Cooke, lord cheife justice of the Common Pleas, of his manor of Stoke Poges, within Buckingshamshire. All theis are liable to the Castle warrantes, though for want of due execution some of them begin to be denied, and the warrants disobeyed; the true limmits and bounds being also nere worne out of knowledge, and will shortlie be worne out of minde, without meanes of reformation." The castle and forest of Windsor is mentioned as an honour, by statute, in the seventeenth of Henry VIII. cap. 18. FROGMORE HOUSE, which had many possessors during the Civil Wars, afterwards became the property of George Fitzroy, duke of Northumberland, in the reign of Charles II. his widow died here at an advanced age. This place was also the residence of marshal Belleisle, after his release from the Castle; it was afterwards the seat of Sir Edward Walpole, K. B. and of the honourable Mrs. Egerton, of whom it was purchased by her majesty queen Charlotte, who has made very considerable additions to the house and gardens. In different parts of the grounds, Gothic temples, rural huts, &c. have been erected, as a relief to the sameness of a dead flat. On the opposite side of the road, is a neat house, the seat of the late earl of Pomfret, as ranger of the Little Park, within the limits of which it is situated. The queen's dairy, is commended for its neatness and simplicity. We now describe the various towns and villages, &c. within Windsor Forest, and the county of Berks. The BELVIDERE, or SHRUB'S HILL, is a triangular building, with a tower at each corner. It is encompassed by a fine plantation of trees, forming a delightful scene. The Boble piece of water, in the valley underneath, was formed at at a great expence, and, from a small current, is rendered capable of carrying barges and boats of pleasure. Over this water duke William built a bridge of curious architecture, being one arch, one hundred and sixty-five feet wide in the clear, which is five feet wider than the Rialto at Venice. This piece of water terminated in a beautiful cascade; but, the pond head blowing up, the rapidity of the torrent did such damage to the bridge, that the whole was obliged to be taken down, and rebuilt with five arches to it. Half a mile from this bridge is the Chinese Island, so named from the building on it, after the Chinese mauner; and near this pond is a beautiful grotto. Beside these improvements, the duke laid out the race ground on Ascot Heath, at a great expence. This heath is six miles from Windsor, on the road to Bagshot; on it the king's plate of one hundrod guineas is annually run for, and the races usually constitute five days sport. Near the course is the lodge for his majesty's huntsmen, where also the royal staghounds are kept. CRANBOURNE LODGE, belonged to the late duke of Cumberland, as ranger of the forest. This lodge is most pleasantly situated, and has an extensive prospect over a fine plain and country, which commands the most beautiful landscape, or picture of nature. In a spacious chamber in the house are painted, and regularly ranged in large pannels, the military dresses of the different corps in the. armies of Europe. His royal highness prince William of Gloucester is the present ranger of the forest. Opposite to the front of this lodge, on the plain, in the parish of Wingfield, is a handsome building, erected and endowed by the late earl of Ranelagh, formerly ranger, for the education of twenty boys and girls. ST. LEONARD'S HILL, in the parish of Clewer, requires particular notice, on account of its delectable situation, and the large plantation of oak and beech, which here form a most agrecable variety. On the summit of the hill is a noble lodge, first begun by the late duchess of Gloucester, when countess of Waldegrave, on the site of a cottage, and, greatly greatly improved by his royal highness the late duke of Gloucester, on his marriage with that lady; and from this improvement, and the residence of their highnesses, was named Gloucester Lodge. The house is elegant, and commands an extensive prospect over the river Thames, and a most beautiful fruitful country. On the side of the hill is a pleasing villa, equally beautiful in its situation and large plantations, for many years the residence of several persons of distinction, and afterwards purchased by the duke, as an appendage or farm to the first-mentioned house. This delightful spot has since been sold to general Harcourt, the present possessor *. In Clewer church is a brass plate to the memory of Martin Epence, a famous archer, who shot a match against one hundred men, near Bray. SUNNING HILL, at a small distance, is a most delightful part of the forest. The situation is picturesque, and many gentlemen of fortune have pleasant villas or lodgings for the summer season, to drink the mineral waters. The wells are designed with taste, neatly laid out. Assemblies, or public breakfasts, were formerly held here, which have gra dually diminished. Sunning Hill church may be regarded as an early specimen of ecclesiastical architecture. In the common road from Windsor to Sunning Hill, is a large inclosure made by king Charles II. Many other pleasing villas are dispersed in different parts of the forest, to describe which would far exceed our compass. SWINLEY LODGE, at no great distance from Sunning Hill. belongs to the master of the buck hounds, an office of honour and profit. Here a number of deer are kept for the royal chace, *St. Leonard's Hill seems to have been a Roman encampment; many relicts of antiquity have been discovered here at different periods, particularly in 1707, when a brass lamp, some celts, a spear head, trumpets, coins, &c. were dug up. The lamp was presented by Sir Hans Sloane to the Society of Antiquaries, who chose it as the crest to the arms of that corporation, with the motto "Non extinguetur." Coins of Vespasian, Trajan, and of the Lower Empire, were found in 1725, and purchased by the society. under under his care and direction: he appoints the days for hunting, takes care of the forest deer, and his majesty's stag and buck hounds, and for this purpose has many officers under him, who superintend the several parts of the forest, divided into different walks or appointments. EASTHAMPSTEAD, was for many years a royal residence; it was a hunting seat of Richard II. and it was here, that in 1531, Henry VIII. sent some of the lords of the council to persuade queen Catharine of Arragon to consent to a divorce. James I. resided at Easthampsted in 1622 and 1623. Soon after it was granted to William Turnbull, Esq. agent to James and his successor at Brussels; whose grandson, Sir William, was one of the principal secretaries of state to William III. and the friend and correspondent of Pope. Sir William is buried in Easthampstead; as is Mr. Fenton, the poet, who died here in 1732. The marchioness of Downshire, is the present lady of the manor. Near this place is a large irregular fortification, denominated CÆSAR'S CAMP, defended by a double ditch. At about half a mile distance was a raised road, nearly ninety feet wide, called the DEVIL'S HIGHWAY, with a trench on each side, running east and west. This was levelled when the ridings were cut across the heath, and is now called THE DEVIL'S RIDING. Various writers have been of opinion that this was a continuation of the Roman road from Silchester to London. OAKINGHAM. This is frequently written Wokingham, and is a populous market town on the edge of Windsor Forest, partly in Berkshire and Wilts, at the distance of thirty-two miles from London. The town is populous, and is chiefly built with brick; the church is a spacious and handsome edifice, and contains a monument for Dr. Thomas Godwin, dean of Canterbury, and bishop of Bath and Wells, who was born here in 1517, and died in 1590. His son Francis, bishop of Hereford, author of "De Præsulibus Anglia Commentarius," wrote the epitaph. 2 Oakingham Oakingham is a corporation, consisting of an alderman, high steward, recorder, town clerk, &c.; the forest courts for Windsor, are also kept here. The market house is a very antient building, framed with timber. Lord Braybrooke is lord of the manor of Ashridge, formerly belonging to the Lacies, earls of Lincoln. "This The Rose inn is celebrated in the well known song by Gay, in praise of the daughter of Mr. Mog. cruel fair," says Mr. Lyson's, " died a spinster at the age of sixty-seven. Mr. Standen, of Arbörfield, is said to have been the enamoured swain alluded to in the song. The current tradition is, that Gay and some of his poetic friends having dined at the Rose, and being detained by the weather, proposed that each should contribute a verse to a song in praise of the Fair Maid of the Inn. By mistake they praised Molly when they should have praised Sally, who was the greater beauty. A portrait of Mr. Gay is still at the inn*. BINFIELD, * Lysons's Magna Britannia. The song, printed in Swift's works, Vol. XXIV. 1803, and intitled Molly Mog: or, The Fair Maid of the Inn, is as follows: I. Says my uncle, I pray you discover woes, IV. The schoolboy's delight is a playday; The schoolmaster's joy is to flog; Why you pine and you whine like The milkmaid's delight is on May a lover: I've seen Molly Mog of the Rose. II. O nephew! your grief is but folly; 'day; But mine is on sweet Molly Mog. V. Will-o'-wisp leads the traveller a gadding Thro' ditch, and thro' quagmire and bog: A Molly much better than Mog. But no light can set me a madding, Like the eyes of my sweet Molly. III. I know that by wits 'tis recited, VOL. V. No. 119. |
