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assurance that I had no fear but for him and the With a few devoted friends around her, Mrs. success of our brave army, he left me, beseeching Madison left the house, and joined her husband a me to take care of myself, and of the cabinet pa few miles from the city, to return in a few days. pers, public and private. I have since received two The president's house having been destroyed by dispatches from him, written in pencil; the last is į the enemy meanwhile, the elegant and commodious alarming: he desires I should be ready, at a mo residence of Colonel Tayloe became for a time the ment's warning, to enter my carriage and leave the presidential mansion; and, subsequently, the two city; that the enemy seemed stronger than had south-east corner houses of the “Seven Buildings," been reported, and that it might happen they would now standing on Pennsylvania Avenue, were made reach the city and destroy it. I am, accordingly, } the abodes of hospitality until the 4th of March, ready. I have pressed as many cabinet papers into 1817, when, having seen his successor, James Montrunks as to fill one carriage ; our private property roe, of Virginia, inaugurated President of the Unimust be sacrificed, as it is impossible to procure ted States, Mr. and Mrs. Madison, after a long wagons for its transportation. I am determined service of virtue and usefulness, retired to the shades not to go myself until I see Mr. Madison safe, and of Montpelier, his paternal residence, in Orange he can accompany me, as I hear of much hostility County, Virginia. towards him. My friends and acquaintances are Mr. Madison scrupulously refrained, after his reall gone, even Colonel C., with his hundred men, s tirement, from all interference in the politics of the who were stationed as a guard in this inclosure. nation ; but enjoyed, in his abode of sylvan beauty French John-a faithful domestic—with his usual and mountain salubrity, the visits of guests of disactivity and resolution, offers to spike the cannon tinction from every clime, who sought the patriot at the gate, and to lay a train of powder which and the sage, that they might testify personally that would blow up the British, should they enter the respect and regard which his eminent services and house. To the last proposition I positively object, the purity of his character universally inspired. without being able, however, to make him under Here, in retirement, as in public, the equal virstand why all advantages in war may not be taken. tues of Mrs. Madison conciliated the warmest regard

" Wednesday morning, 12 o'clock. Since sunrise, } from all around her; and, in the dispensation of an I have been turning my spy-glass in every direc

elegant and enlightened hospitality, she gladdened tion, and watching with unwearied anxiety, hoping the evening of her husband's days by her attention to discern the approach of my dear husband and his to his friends and guests, while her anxious watchfriends ; but, alas ! I can only descry groups of fulness of him, best known in the domestic circle, inilitary wandering in all directions, as if there was

are perhaps better described in the following lines, a lack of arms, or of spirit to fight for their own fire- { inscribed to grateful recollections : sides!

MONTPELIER. Three o'clock. Will you believe it, my dear sister ? we have had a battle, or skirmish, near Here, at this gate, the swelling sylvan range, Bladensburg, and I am still here within sound of

The stately mansion with its pictured halls the cannon! Mr. Madison comes not; may God

I'll bid adieu. Perhaps this is the last

Of all this excellence that life may lend protect him! Two messengers covered with dust

Me time to look upon. Here, let me stand come to bid me fly; but I shall wait for him.

And look, and say, even from my inward heart, " At this late hour, a wagon has been pro Peace be within these walls-the peace of Heaven! cured ; I have had it filled with the plate and most May it forever reign within your breasts, valuable portable articles belonging to the house.

Ye gentle inmates of that honored roof! Whether it will reach its destination, the Bank of

Never two purer hearts, amid the lands

And varying climes I've known, have I observed. Maryland, or fall into the hands of the British sol

Thrice blest and honored they, whom even age diery, events must determine. Our kind friend,

Adorns with brighter excellence, in whom Mr. Carroll, has come to hasten my departure, and Fidelity, mutual respect, and love, is in very bad humor with me because I insist on And mutual tenderness unite. Behold waiting until the large portrait of General Washing That noble dame! see her gracious bearing, ton is secured, and it requires to be unscrewed from

The cordial welcome to her numerous friends!

Observe her zeal, her hospitable cares; the wall. This process was found too tedious for

But mark the keen solicitude, the thought. these perilous moments. I have ordered the frame

Constant, ever to him, there, where he lies to be broken, and the canvas taken out, and it is

Alive in an immortal spirit, though done, and the precious relic placed in the hands of The lofty cares of more than fourscore years two gentlemen for safe keeping. And now, my dear His sinows have unstrung. Each day she lives sister, I must leave this house, or the retreating

But for to watch over his precious life;

Soft is the pillow from her careful hand! army will make me a prisoner in it, by filling up the

Never was a man more blessed in such a wife; road I am directed to take. When I shall write

Never was a wife more honored in her mate. you again, or where I shall be to-morrow, I cannot

Hail, MADISON ! among the noble song tell !"

Peerless, of fair Virginia's soil;

THREE DAYS IN CONSTANTINOPLE.

Of all its generous children, first art thou,
Save for the memory of him whose name
Shines above all men's names; in whom the love
Of country and of virtue far surpassed
The love of life. He, whose glorious days men
Where Christendom extends, by one consent,
Have hailed the type of human excellence:
A glass for men to look in, when they need
To curb the wild ambition that weak minds
Lead oft astray, and makes historic names
The curse and shame of human annals, when
They might be gems like that of WASHINGTON.
His great example was not lost on thee,
Whose life has passed in loyalty to truth.
The tree of liberty, planted by him,
Well hast thou nurtured; now, its spreading boughs
Give shade to all, and thou shalt be revered
Whilst time shall last. Forever shall our sons
Raise in this land the honored names
Of WASHINGTON and MADISON, the types
Of human wisdom, patriot probity.
Blest be thy future days! long may'st thou live
To love thy friends, to know how much thou 'rt loved!
Long may the wisdom of all ages past
Ort, from thy gentle lips and hallowed heart,

Be poured into the listening ears of mer by sea, and
As mine have drank it in. And when ting a large
Declines, at length, into the golden weigh Asia Mi.
To rise refulgent to a brighter day,
May thy immortal mind still turn to start, when it
Bearing thee onward in thy course to

Archbishop of After the death of her husbandhad promised. continued to reside at Montpelier uit we did not the exception of part of each wintening an engenerally spent in Washington ; till, fined decided she made that city her permanent residence, their ing uninterrupted good health till within five days of her death, which took place on the 13th day of July, 1849, at the advanced age of eighty-two years.

Without disease, she rapidly sank from age and exhaustion into the grave, in hope of a joyful resurrection.

Her remains were deposited temporarily in the receiving-vault in the Congressional burying-ground, till they could be conveyed to Montpelier, in Virginia, to repose by the side of her illustrious husband.

HOVI WE SPENT THREE DAYS IN CONSTANTINOPLE, AND

HOW WE LEFT IT:

BEING SOME PAGES FROM THE JOURNAL OF AN ORIENTAL TRAVELLER.

BY A. R. MIDDLETOWN PAYNE.

The sun was just disappearing in the horizon, on trying to escape from a fisherman's hand—a wrigThursday evening, when the anchors of the lumber- { gle and a jerk. ing Austrian merchant vessel “Presburg" plunged We took nothing with us from the ship but a into the calm blue waters of the Bosphorus. The portmanteau apiece, and a letter of introduction to domes and minarets of the “City of the Sultan" were Monsieur L n, a French gentleman resident in tipped with the last beams of day, and the twilight Pera, which had been kindly given to us by his breezes were sighing through the branches of the brother-in-law, to whom we had been introduced at cypresses that sweep down, in thick and solemn clug Venice. Our heavy baggage was to be sent on ters, to the water's edge, in the vast cemetery of shore the next morning with our three servants, the Pera, not far from which the ship had hove to

brothers Boyd. Hailing a passing caïque, guided by a single ath-} Grey and I now summoned up all our powers letic Turk, we descended on board of her, literally, of Turkish conversation-limited to six sentences I believe, for I do not think there was much more which had been taught us by the Austrian captain, than that between our feet and the water. However, and a seventh, which we had ourselves manufacI would have been glad enough to leave the vessel tured by dint of great perseverance and research, on a chip, and I labor under the impression that my from the others—and practised upon our boatman travelling companion, Grey, had precisely the same instead of addressing him in Armenian, which we feeling. Now, let it be understood that there is no both understood and spoke pretty decontly, I flatter such thing to be done, in any way compatible with { myself. “Can you take us to the quay of Tophan

ty, as to leap on to a caïque ; for a suddenly. na ?” I commenced. “Yes." "Are there many jerked-on weight would infallibly sink the frail boat, Franks in Stamboul now?” “A good many." This or go through it. They appear to float in accord we did not understand at the time, but treasured up ance with some, as yet, undiscovered principle, and the pronunciation, so that we might inquire, at the their extreme needle-like narrowness makes them first opportunity, what it meant. “Is the Sultan in fly through the water like—what shall I say?-a hot Stamboul ?" asked Grey. Another unintelligible knife through fresh butter? — similies are scarce reply; for we had always been taught not to expect Dowadays; the motion is not unlike that of an eеl { more than a “Yes," or a "No," from so unioquaassurance thunge as a Turk : but our boatman was this proved, on landing, to be a false impression, the success of our specimen, to say the least of him; streets being extremely narrow, horrificariously me to take car we know, might have been exercis- dirty, and the houses of most tarnished appearance.

dirty, and the houses pers, public andthe Yankee trick of answering one } Hailing an empty ar

Hailing an empty araba—all gilding and discomfort dispatches from og another.

—that was being led slowly along by its driver, we alarming: he pauso which was interrupted by our

entered it and were jolted through the indescribably ment's warning something which, from tho intona rough streets in a vehicle without springs, pulled by city: that the to be a question. This called for the

two oxen not remarkable for their size, cleanliness, been reporte Arth sentence in our extensive vocabu or respectable appearance, although I suppose that reach thpaó not understand you,” in consequence of they, as well as the araba, belonged to an acquaintroadu he explained himself at length, much to our ance of Monsieur L- n's, as the slave seemed to bewilderment, but the last word solved the mystery recognize him. _“backschish!" A handful of paras, with which The first place we alighted in was the Atmeidan the captain had supplied us, was all-sufficient, and {(or Hippodrome), on one side of which stands the on turning round, we found that the caïque was close Mosque of the Sultan Achmet, a splendid erection, to the landing-place.

remarkable for being the only sacred edifice in the Five minutes after, we were picking our way Mohammedan world that possesses six minarets; along the narrow, dark, and extremely dirty streets that at Mecca has now seven, although originally of the quarter Galata, under the guidance of a Greek but four, the other three having been added in condragoman, who had proffered his services on our sequence of the Sultan Achmet having received (or quitting the caïque. Soon, we were snugly en- bought) permission to increase-in that which he sconced in two very comfortable chairs of Parisian was having built-- the usual number by two, it make, and were partaking of an admirable supper not being considered proper that a subsidiary place at the table of Monsieur L n , whose residence, } of worship should have more than the great head. having been built expressly to suit his French taste, Being "giaours," we were not permitted to enter any was the fac-simile of a civilized dwelling, and was of the mosques without a firman, which we had not, reputed to be one of the most elegant in Pera. We so we were obliged to content ourselves with a mere forgot in a short time that we were “strangers in a exterior view, although on our return to Constanti. strange land,” and the family party-I might al nople the following year, we not only visited the most call it 80-did not break up until quite late. “Sultan Achmet," but also the “Sancta Sophia"

I was awakened at sunrise the next morning by and the “Solemanie." the loud voices of the muezzins, calling the faithful { In the Atmeidan there is an obelisk of Egyptian to prayer, from the lofty minarets of the innumera granite, brought from Rhodes by the Emperor ble mosques in the city. Although the tones were Theodosius, who put it on a white marble pedestal excessively harsh and discordant, there was still covered with bassi relievi of the worst possible exesomething more solemn in this manner of proclaim cution, depicting his majesty's victories; the sculping to the sleepers their duty, than if a bell bad been tor was undoubtedly a conqueror also, as he has tolled from the airy galleries.

left undeniable evidences of his having utterly vanHaving but three days to stay in Constantinople,

quished the rules of art. No matter, it's good in accordance with our preconcerted arrangements, enough for barbarians. we were obliged to bestir ourselves in order to get Not far from this relic stands the spiral column ready for our travels through Asia Minor. Mon of bronze, once terminating in three serpents' heads, sieur L- n was kind enough to offer his services one of which is said to have been struck off at a in assisting us, and also in showing us through the single blow by the sword of the Sultan Achmet. city, in consequence of which last promise we set} This pillar is also reported to have once supported out quite early in the morning under his direction. the tripod of the Delphio goddess, and—yet again It was Friday, the Mohammedan Sabbath, and it was to be the identical column that was presented by therefore useless to pass through the bazaars, as the the Greeks to the oracle of that town after the batshops would all be closed. Avoiding them, Mon. {tle of Plateæ. I suppose that one is at liberty to sieur L- led us to the banks of the Golden credit as much and as many of the above traditions Horn, and, entering a highly ornamented and beau as he pleases; but there is a fourth, in which the tiful caïque, we shot across to Constantinoplo proper. Turks place implicit and unquestioning belief: it is

From the water, the view of the city was beauti that when this pillar shall be removed from its preful beyond description: the numerous brilliantly. { sent position, the Christians will regain the mastery decorated domes, surrounded by the tall sky-reach- of Constantinople; at which period a walled-up ing minarets of red and white stone, with their chamber in the Mosque of Sancta Sophia is to open transparent galleries of pierced marble, rose high of its own accord, and a Greek bishop (who has above the encompassing crowd of picturesque wood. } been praying in it, with a missal upon which no Mosen houses, and encircling groves of plane-trees and lem eye may rest, ever since the commencement of cypresses. Everything seemed bright and clean; but { the Mohammedan supremacy), will come out and

THREE DAYS IN CONSTANTINOPLE.

441

chant the service at the high altar. This will un- } greater part of our baggage to Smyrna by sea, and doubtedly happen, if he is in there—and he will thus relieved us of the trouble of carrying a large have excellent reason to give thanks after so long quantity of unnecessary luggage through Asia Mian imprisonment.

nor. About a hundred yards from the bronze tripod is At six o'clock we were all ready to start, when it the unsightly column of Constantine, nothing more was suddenly remembered that the Archbishop of than a rudely-constructed pillar, ninety feet in height, Broussa had not sent us the letter he had promised. of unbewn stones of all shapes and sizes. None of This was very delightful, as without it we did not the metal which once covered it now remains.

stand a particularly good chance of obtaining an enWe next proceeded to examine the exterior of the trance into the several monasteries we had decided Mosque of Sancta Sophia, and having done so, left it, upon invading for the purpose of ransacking their grumbling at the Moslem bigotry that prevented us libraries. What was to be done ? Nothing, but to from entering its beauteous gates. In the afternoon, send a message to his holiness, and so we deterwe visited the quarter of Fanar, the residence of the mined to employ Ned Grey as stirrer-up. To do this principal Greek families in Stamboul, who are call- } it was necessary to borrow a horse, as all of ours ed Fanariotes. I was told that they speak a lan- } were waiting for us at Scutari, on the other side of guage remarkable for its resemblance to the tongue} the Bosphorus. Monsieur L- n had one of his of Ancient Greece; but I was unable to encounter a saddled instantly; but as Grey was mounting, the single individual of the race, as they hold themselves letter came in the care of one of the archbishop's much aloof from strangers.

household, with an apology for its not having been Monsieur L- n assisted us, on the following sooner seut. Of course, “it was of no consequence," day, in preparing for our journey through Asia and, so saying, we placed the saddle-bags in a twoMinor, and informed us that, as the Archbishop of wheeled vehicle (I don't know exactly what to call Broussa was then at Constantinople, we had merely it, a wagon, a dray, or something else) drawn by an to ask him for a letter to the Armenian convents on extremely attenuated donkey, that would have been the Mounts of Bemdar, and we would be sure to a prize to a student studying anatomy. have our request complied with. We accordingly We permitted the curious conveyance to precede waited on his holiness, and were received with the us, attended by the Armenians, for the fact was we utmost urbanity and politeness, being disinissed, were ashamed to be seen in its company even by the after an hour's conversation, with an assurance that dirty, shabby Constantinopolitans, and so we fola letter should be sent us by the time of our intend lowed at a respectful distance, accompanied by our ed departure.

late host. Passing through the market-place of On Sunday we visited the immense cemeteries in Tophanna," (which means nearly the same as the neighborhood of Pera. The thousands of tombs “ Arsenal,") we took a peep at the beautiful founwith their turbaned pillars, overshadowed by the tain, and the exterior of the mosque of Sultan Selim, yew and cypress; the women in their black silk one of the beauties of the Pera side of the Golden gowns and impenetrable veils, pouring libations on Horn. By its side, toward the water, is the quay some of the mausoleums, on the anniversary of their of Topbanna, where the cannon are kept-ready for bereavement; the fresh garlands of flowers laid on service, too, as was proved one night, some time ago, the marble slabs—all tended to give me a deeper the pier baving been set on fire during an insurrecreverence for the Moslems in general than I had tion of the Janissaries. The flames discharged the ever before experienced. They at least do not for ready-loaded cannon, sending the balls wbizzing over get their dead.

to Scutari, where the populace were dreadfully In the same evening (Sunday) we went to a mu alarmed, thinking that the Greeks had revolted, sical entertainment at Signor F- i's, an Italian seized the arsenal, and were bombarding the city. gentleman residing in the neighborhood of Monsieur Such, however, was not the case, as the reader L- n's house. We retired soon, as we wished to knows, and the petty cause of all the fright was prepare for an early departure the next morning. soon quelled.

We were up before sunrise on Monday, and, to Near the quay was the caïque we had engaged gother with our regular travelling attendants, the the day before ; and, the saddle-bags being transthree brothers Boyd, and five Armenian supernume ferred to it, the indescribable vehicle was hobbled raries, were soon busily engaged in making our final away with by the anatomical donkey, much to our dispositions for leaving the “City of the Sultan;" } satisfaction, and we entered the boat, being landed and these were not very extensive, consisting prin. in a short time at Scutari, after having had a glance cipally of the cramming of the greatest possible at that curious island structure called indiscriminumber of habiliments into the most diminutive nately the Maiden's, or Leander's Tower; the Turksaddle-bags I ever met with, for we had no animals ish name is Kiz Koulasi, of which the intorpretation beside those which we rode, as we did not wish to is the first of the above given appellations.* incumber ourselves with superfluous annoyances. Monsieur n kindly undertook to forward the The derivation of “Kiz Koulasi” is evident, being

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By the side of the landing-place at Scutari rises greatest ease ; Harry Boyd followed, and my turn the mosque of Buyeck D'Jami; it has a gallery came next. running all around its exterior walls, and has a re I spurred up my horse, but he did not wish to go markably small dome for so extensive a structure: in, having no fancy for a cold bath so soon after it also prides itself in possessing two singularly breakfast. He kicked and plunged, unfortunately beautiful minarets, while the adjacent fountain is a not into the water, and waltzed away as if a Gertriumph of arabesque sculpture.

man born, but in he would not go: he was in a We found the horses at the appointed spot, and perfect tantrum, and it was with the utmost diffiwere soon ready to start. Monsieur L- n now culty that I managed to quiet him sufficiently to took leave of us and returned to Pera, while we set turn him round. At length I succeeded in doing off on our expedition, taking the route to Ismid. so, and backed him gently into the river. As soon The road was not very bad, and by six in the even as the water touched his fetlocks, he must needs ing we had reached the caravanserai* of Jub Gan take another prance; but I rapidly caused him to noum, about twenty-seven miles from Scutari, where head the stream. Then, with a vigorous pass at we spent the night in company with uncountable him with my spurs, and a crack over his back with feas, who, by our subsequent sensations, must have my portable fishing-rod-I had no whip-I forced made a far better supper than we managed to pro him to dance into the water, which he did not apcure.

prove of at all, and, with as many turnings and A slight detention on the route prevented us from twistings as possible, he contrived to get to the reaching Ismid until quite late on Tuesday evening. middle of the Saccaria, where he stopped short. NoI imagined we did not lose much in not seeing the thing would budge him, and to avoid the water I was town, as it is very small and frightfully the converso screwed up nearly on top of the saddle, looking " for of clean, if the khant we put up at may be taken as all the world" like an awkward circus-rider. Sevea specimen, or if my olfactories did not play me a ral pokes with the end of my fishing-rod had no trick as we rode through the place.

more effect than a willow bough, and I was in an Now I am sorry that I have no adventures to } agreeable situation, internally wishing the horse and relate as having occurred to me on the road from the Saccaria at the North Pole. There ab Grey Scutari to the Monastery of Abrodol (the first on} on one bank laughing to kill himself, did on the our not very long list); but, as I have before said, I } other the five Armenians grinning like motkeys and seldom or never have the good luck to meet with showing their superb set of teeth to the best advans any, and at present I cannot remember a single tage. At length one of these took pity on me and, one, among the legions that are generally supposed re-entering the stream, whispered some Atrfenian to have happened to previous travellers, that would words in the horse's ear, who instantly became doserve to introduce here, or I might appropriate it, cile, and permitted me to direct him to the bpposite with some little alterations. Such being the case, I bank, Grey and the two Boyds following. * will run through this part of our journey much } Now, I was no believer in charms, but still I felt quicker than our horses carried us, and merely men-} curious to know what the Armenian had said to the tion our crossing the River Saccaria (or Aiala), on horse; so, beckoning him aside, I inquired. He Thursday morning.

could not tell, it was a secret (between him and the We arrived on its banks late on Wednesday horse, doubtless); but a piaster brought it out. evening, and, with the sun of the following day, Taking me a little way from the rest of the party, searched for a fordable spot, which, after many fail and carefully looking round to see that none was ures, we found about a mile further south. The within eaves-dropping distance, he murmured in the Armenians plunged boldly in and crossed with the lowest possible tone of voice, and with an air of the

greatest secrecy and seriousness, “I said, 'O horse! doubtless & corrupt pronunciation of “Kiss you, lassy,"

if thou wilt be ridden in peace across these waters, a sentence that Leander may easily be supposed to have Allah will reward thee, and I, O horse! will give frequently addressed to the fair Hero.

thee, at our first halt, an extra measure of oats !!!'The origin of the name of the surrounding waters is

Think, 0 gentle reader ! how this unhappy indiri. equally clear: “Buss for us," which, in course of time, has

dual was humbugged out of a piastre! Justice, howcome to be mispronounced "Bosphorus."

ever, should be rendered to the Armenian, for he * Caravan-serai means caravan-house, and is a large building, capable of accommodating with ease two or three

fulfilled his promise, that is, he took the money to of the huge assemblies of merchants that are continually purchase the grain.* crossing the country. They are consequently placed on A little before noon we checked our horses at the the great routes, at the distance of a day's journey from foot of the precipice, on the summit of which was each other.

+ A khan is a small tavern, to be found in every village, for the accommodation () of single travellers, or parties

* It may be as well to remark here that I afterwards of ten or twelve merchants, where the "guest” has to be discovered the horse to have been subdued by the Armehis own “chief cook and bottleroasher," provided he can find nian's compressing the animal's nostrils in & peculiar Any clean water

manner, which, however, is kept strictly secret.

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